1984 svo project

[CDEAN92]

ok so heres the deal, i bought a 84 that had been sitting for 10 years a couple weeks ago to build as a street/strip car. I am new to the ford world you could say and for the last couple weeks ive been trying to gather a basic knowledge of the 2.3 turbo. I would really appreciate any input you guys could give me on what parts to buy and what to do. my issue right now is that the exhaust manifold is cracked and the other 86 motor it came with also has the same crack :(, ive been looking at the stinger header and maybe a holset hx35? my other question is tuning and the best way to convert to a MAF, i have noticed a number of standalone systems out there but do i need that for a basic bolt on car? im not looking spend alot of money as i have that tied up in other cars :/ ha but im mainly interested in doin most the work myself, learning and having fun with the car! thanks

[Desert Patina]

These answers are only as researched, I can't corroborate anything about them...

You might want to consider 40bob's log for a header, which comes recommended for being a strong and good header. The turbo is entirely your preference, but turboford, summit racing, and forced4 has great info on all of those options as well as this forum.

Perhaps the LA3 conversion will make it easier to convert to MAF, but that might limit you to only 300hp and I have no direct experience to say if that is true or not since 300hp is my happy limit also.

Even though that is entirely off the top of my head just from what I've read on the internet, I hope it helps.

[Robertosvo]

How about you put out a parts wanted ad looking for an E6 manifold. Get the car together and see what you think?
From there you can try some simple mods ....La3/brown tpp injectors,Manual boost controller, downpipe....etc
Do these before you go all out and start putting things on that you may not need or be the best for your preference/ driving needs

[CDEAN92]

thanks for the input guys, just got the stock manifold and turbo off (pheewwww), dont think im gonna have the crack welded up so im really interested in 40bob's headers, not sure whether to go with center mount or stock place ment. is the E6 off a turbo coupe or a 1985.5 and up? an 1986 motor came with it also.

[TheSVOTrust]

Probably not going to head Roberto's "suggestion" BUT I have to second "just get a manifold" get the car running and baseline BEFORE you start buying things (read wrong things/or things that will seem unimportant) IF you found a blown head gasket, warn motor , bad trans , junk rear etc etc etc.

10 Years sitting you would be looking at fuel work (tank/injectors), brake work (calipers and master) as well as tires and etc etc etc. Guess you know that - we just don't know "how mad at your money your are" yet.

Mark
P.S. We usually find that out a year after starting down this road and seeing the "for sale" TONS invested ad!

[TheSVOTrust]

Probably not going to head Roberto's "suggestion" BUT I have to second "just get a manifold" get the car running and baseline BEFORE you start buying things (read wrong things/or things that will seem unimportant) IF you found a blown head gasket, warn motor , bad trans , junk rear etc etc etc.

10 Years sitting you would be looking at fuel work (tank/injectors), brake work (calipers and master) as well as tires and etc etc etc. Guess you know that - we just don't know "how mad at your money your are" yet.

Mark
P.S. We usually find that out a year after starting down this road and seeing the "for sale" TONS invested ad!

My 100th post - what a dick !

[CDEAN92]

it does need a master, u must me psychic haha. the car hit bambi ten years ago and was parked. I farm and do body work by trade so i feel i can pick up on things fairly quick, would it be worth having the stock cast one welded? the car ran after i put a TFI, fuel filter and premium/sea foam in it , it had a slight miss and thats when i noticed the cracked manifold. money isnt really an issue but i dont want to spend a whole lot of it , mainly looking to have fun while learning

[MikeFleming]

Is there actually exhaust gas coming out the crack? If not, leave it. The E3 castings do crack frequently between #2 & 3 runners (where the casting is the thickest) but they rarely leak.

I wouldn't bother welding it.

[CDEAN92]

I thought there was. i have the turbo and manifold off now, so i hate to really put it back on. i think im gonna go with 40bobs stock placement header and a FMIC from stinger

[Desert Patina]

it does need a master, u must me psychic haha. the car hit bambi ten years ago and was parked. I farm and do body work by trade so i feel i can pick up on things fairly quick, would it be worth having the stock cast one welded? the car ran after i put a TFI, fuel filter and premium/sea foam in it , it had a slight miss and thats when i noticed the cracked manifold. money isnt really an issue but i dont want to spend a whole lot of it , mainly looking to have fun while learning

My car I picked up in July was sitting for 10 years also. If it helps, so far here's been my list of things I had to replace...

* Master Cylinder (the brake fluid degraded into some kind of sludge)
* All the brake lines around the car (visual inspection showed large cracks in the rubber on some pieces)
* New Calipers (Again I think these were victims of the degrading brake fluid)
* New Fuel pumps (mine has two), and I had the tank taken off and washed out.
* Tires.
* ECU Relay

Of course each of those failed either a visual or mechanical inspection before I changed them.

I'm also replacing or replaced (But I think these are just part of what grounded the car in the first place)
* Head gasket (I had fizzy bubbles in the gas tank)
* PVC valve (oil blowing out of the gas cap, but that could have been due to the gasket)
* wheel bearings
* Steering Rack, and outer tie rod ends
* Ball Joint
* U Joints

Currently I'm struggling with some things the previous owner ripped out but are hard to find
* Cooling lines that go before the oil filter
* Oil separator line that goes to turbo intake
* All the turbo control vacuum tubing
* A hole in the firewall where the heating and air conditioning used to go


I'm not sharing that to tell you what to do or check, just to commiserate :)

[CDEAN92]

thanks for the info! i replaced the fuel filter and there was plenty pressure so i got my fingers crossed that the pumps are ok, the tank was dry but i should probably drop it, the 'T' solenoid that controls boost was broke on mine, figured i could do a manual boost controller but then what do i do with the sensor?

[caroth]

Some of the information posted above is old/outdated/wrong.

The MAF conversion with an LA3 is not limited to 300hp, there are several folks out there make more than 400hp with a MAF/LA3 combo.

The 40bob header is no longer available new. Bob hasn't been building headers for several years.

[CDEAN92]

well shoot :( guess il stick with the factory manifold, from what ive gathered the ecu in these are fairly 'open loop' and can adapt to change.

[Desert Patina]

CDEAN, why are you worried about the sensor if I might ask?

[CDEAN92]

CDEAN, why are you worried about the sensor if I might ask?

if its unplugged will it give the computer false information and mess with the fuel trim?

[Desert Patina]

I'm actually in the middle of installing the LA3 with the manual boost controller. I'll let you know what I find out, it looks like I'll have time to work on it this weekend.

[CDEAN92]

sounds good! very anxious to get to work on mine now that the rain has put us out of the fields

[CDEAN92]

I'm actually in the middle of installing the LA3 with the manual boost controller. I'll let you know what I find out, it looks like I'll have time to work on it this weekend.

any news?

[Desert Patina]

I have it installed, but I'm working out the vacuum system right now. I'm missing a part for the PCV system that I'm searching for.

In the mean time I've accumulated a few diagrams that might help. Any you might be interested in, just PM me.

[CDEAN92]

i purchased a chiltons book that has been fairly helpfull in my search for diagrams. putting the car back to gather tmr so hope all goes well and she'll purrr

[CDEAN92]

got everything back together, some how the timing belt jumped. the cam gear and distributor are where it should be but the crank is off

[MikeFleming]

Well, two out of three ain't bad.

Fortunately it's an easy fix.

[CDEAN92]

Well, two out of three ain't bad.

Fortunately it's an easy fix.


lets hope so! haha got them straightened out, this damn tensioner is about to make me loose some hair -_-, gonna get a timing light tmr and hopefully hear it run RIGHT soon!

also i have a spare front bumper cover in primer, what are these worth? i have somebody locally interested in it

[MikeFleming]

also i have a spare front bumper cover in primer, what are these worth? Perfect, ready for paint? $150-300/US ballpark range. The repro ones that were available a few years back listed, iirc, at $400 and mostly sold in the $300-350 range.

YMMV.

[CDEAN92]

Perfect, ready for paint? $150-300/US ballpark range. The repro ones that were available a few years back listed, iirc, at $400 and mostly sold in the $300-350 range.

YMMV.

yes, its had its fair share of repairs but looks very good

[TheSVOTrust]

Keep ASKING questions (use photos if you want us to point out what is wrong) !

I say this in that - a jumped belt, statement of "damn tensioner" just confuses us. (I would ask if you have the starred bolt for it? or know to loosen both bolts and tighten the small one to hold it in place once sprung for belt installation)


Saw you "replaced the fuel filter" but didn't mention that you dropped the tank and dumped the bad gas! I wouldn't expect it to START RIGHT UP ! Don't crank and crank and crank. You might be still off on timing/dist or it could be bad gas.

Mark
P.S. Lately I'm adding RAG JOINT to all cars ! (seems like a safe bet/safe move) LOL

[CDEAN92]

i took the tensioner loose to get the crank where it should have been compared to the cam gear/distributor, the reason why im cussing it is cause i was having one helllll of a time gettin that little spring back where it was supposed to go haha, is the starred bolt the one that the spring is on?

as far as the tank, it was bone dry when I got it and i put alittle premium in it to see it if would fire, i realize i was a little excited and probably should have just dropped it in the first place, its not an issue about doin it as i have a 2 post lift.

I went ahead and got a new cooler thermostat for it also

put new master cylinder on, went to bleed the brakes and discovered a hole in the line after the 90 angle coming out of the proportioner valve -__-, so gonna learn how to flare brake line soon.

as long as it doesnt rain most of my time is spent in the fields but i try to work on it a couple nights a week so il keep u all posted

touche on the rag joint, will probably do that to now that u mentioned it!

will take some pics soon. thanks for the help!