1985 Craigslist Buy

[CraigB]

I've finally had time (and the weather has cooled off) to pull the 1985 SVO I bought off of Craigslist for $350 into the shop and start work on the darned thing.


I had a suspicion something was up with the area where the cowl drains, so I started by pulling the fenders. I found this:


http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae222/Craig_Blanton/28859405-C537-478E-B678-99A4584148B0-5029-00000539B4C29FDB.jpg


http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae222/Craig_Blanton/6654DAED-6AFC-4E81-A2B9-1708E0224FB3-5029-00000539BFEEB856.jpg


Please note that didn't cut anything out. It was already like this. I did pull a "patch" off the driver's side that was held in with some RTV and a couple of bubble gum welds.


Today I went ahead and pulled the bumper covers, the hatch, removed all the junk from the interior and a few other things to try and see if there where any other oxidized demons in this poor old car.


http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae222/Craig_Blanton/B12871B3-4B1E-4663-84A1-DFB5D0542E45-5029-00000539AA3DF6A1.jpg


http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae222/Craig_Blanton/30F9AA4D-FD5E-4924-83D0-463AE9D92FEC-5029-000005399E35133B.jpg

The door bottoms are shot, there's a hole in the bottom rear portion of the passenger side fender and a few other misc spots, but not as bad as that cowl area.


The car came from Florida via Texas, so who knows when and what caused the rust.


My next goal is to remove the trim around the windows, the windows themselves, the spats and the rocker trim.


Speaking of which, how does one remove the rocker trim?

[MikeFleming]

Rust termites!! Yikes!

There is a nut inside the front fender rear area (you probably removed it when you took off the fenders??) that mounts the front of the rocker trim pieces. Then there are plastic clips that mount the rest to the rear. You can merely pop hte trim off the clips to remove. The trim pieces are a thin aluminum that bends and deforms easily so be gentle with them.

I can post some pics later int he week (don't have time just now to search for them).

[SVOC]

Holy Scary Cowl there Batman!!! :(

[CraigB]

Thanks Mike, I think I can get it with that description. The nut was already removed on the drivers side and the hole in the fender on the passenger side was where it bolted on there.

Svoc, indeed. I'll get it fixed up though.

[mrzw70]

This is a pic of the clip behind the rocker panel. It may help you get yours off without damaging it. Mine wasn't too bad.

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk133/mrzw70/39CBB460-DFD0-40E3-B5D4-B6773CB15727-24649-000027A1681080CC_zps5bdf5b7e.jpg

[CraigB]

Cool that does help, thanks.

[DaveS]

In addition to what Mike said, the rear-most clip isn't a pop on clip, but one where you must rotate the rocker trip counter-clockwise (up in the front) to remove it...it is kind of like a cam action to remove the trim.
I know, it's odd, but it will make sense once you do it...this is, of course, assuming the stock hardware is still there.

It does look like you'll get some practice welding!

[CraigB]

Thanks for all the advice on the rocker molding. Got them removed, no problem. One will need some light straightening, but the other was fine.

Meanwhile the more I dig at this cowl area, the worse it gets. I'll get some pictures when I go back out there tonight and post them along with questions.

[CraigB]

As promised here a few more shots of the rust.

http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae222/Craig_Blanton/B3CE21D0-79DB-4F01-B1DC-9C8ECBB91F61-8052-000007E63526AA10_zps10071053.jpg

http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae222/Craig_Blanton/7B9FF168-4E29-4BD8-8244-DA24FF041237-8052-000007E630C631E4_zps63655d17.jpg

http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae222/Craig_Blanton/6E70AFE6-1FC5-4ADA-91B5-3614123F3B44-8052-000007E627FDBE74_zpscc1c01f2.jpg

It's kind of like an onion, the more I peel back, the more it stinks.

Here's my plan of attack, cut back any of the metal that's weak, apply a rust convertor (Do these actually work?), then replace any sheet metal that's missing.

Here's where I'm not exactly sure what to do. I'm sure that my welds won't be 100% waterproof, so what should a seal them with to keep water from draining into the footwell?

I'm going to remove the dash and wiring before I start welding in the area, so it might be a week or more before I get to that stage. Plus I'll have to haul it to my dads garage with the welder.

Other than that the main body is fairly rust free, one spot under the battery tray and a small spot in the front of the passenger floor.

However the doors will need bottom patches and the hood is shot. What's the going rate for a hood or is the fiberglass hood from HO a better option?

One last question. How do you remove the drip molding? I see there's a screw at the front, but I'm not sure how to release the clips.

[DaveS]

Here's where I'm not exactly sure what to do. I'm sure that my welds won't be 100% waterproof, so what should a seal them with to keep water from draining into the footwell?
3M Seam Sealer is what I use.


However the doors will need bottom patches and the hood is shot. What's the going rate for a hood or is the fiberglass hood from HO a better option?
If you're interested, I may have a used hood that I could part with...not sure the going rate for a hood, but I'm over two states from you.


One last question. How do you remove the drip molding? I see there's a screw at the front, but I'm not sure how to release the clips.

IIRC and am thinking of the same trim molding around the window frame, it just pushes off once the screw is removed. There are three pieces, one vertical, one to fit the top and front of the window and a connection piece. They will most likely come off as one or two pieces. Use plastic body tools to remove them.

[MikeFleming]

Decades ago we used a special term for cars liek this:

"Jack up the radiator cap and push a new car under it."

You got your work cut out (no pun intended) for you on this one!

[CraigB]

If you're interested, I may have a used hood that I could part with...not sure the going rate for a hood, but I'm over two states from you.

I might be interested if I can't find one closer. Google shows you to be about 600 miles from me.



Decades ago we used a special term for cars liek this:

"Jack up the radiator cap and push a new car under it."

You got your work cut out (no pun intended) for you on this one!

I've heard that before. Unfortunately that would require there to be a radiator cap, I don't even have the radiator.

[Patrick]

I have a CA rust free straight parts car. Unfortunately, it's in California.

[Meotchh]

There is also one in Seattle. If it is still sitting lonely this winter, it will begin conversion to a BBQ car. No worries, the car will not be cut or damaged during the conversion.

[Raven855]

i have one that can be donated to the project. i have only 1 request, pull the wiring harness. i have relatives in chanute, Independance, Miami, Joplin and Fort Scott. I can deliver if you can help unload. No doors, front end strut towers forward. No rear end. I can send you some pics if you are interested, I am in Tulsa.

[CraigB]

I'd definitely be interested, send some pictures if you can. I'll be in Tulsa with a truck and trailer towards the end of October. If that would be easier.

[Laredo]

Here's one in Minnesota...."Free SVO shell"

http://www.svocop.com/forum/showthread.php?1083-FREE-1984-Mustang-SVO

[CraigB]

I saw that. I'm not sure when I'll have the time to get to Minnesota. Hmm....

[MIKE'SVO]

Craig -
I can get it to the suburbs of Chicago. You would need to pick it up from there. It would have to be picked up quickly as I don't have a place to store it.
Mike

[CraigB]

I'll be picking up the car Raven has next month some time and it looks to have all the sheet metal I need to fix the cowl rust I have. As much as I'd like to have another SVO. I should stick to one project at a time.

[MikeFleming]

I'll be picking up the car Raven has next month some time and it looks to have all the sheet metal I need to fix the cowl rust I have. As much as I'd like to have another SVO. I should stick to one project at a time. A sign the SVO Disease is progressing.

[CraigB]

I have full blown SVOitis. Luckily my pocket keeps it in check.

[CraigB]

I bought this recently:

3391

3392

Plan was to rebuild it and drive, but its pretty badly tweaked. So, since I'm starting with nothing on the SVO, the LX is going to donate everything so that the SVO can live again.

I know it's not ideal for an SVO to be non-turbo, but it'll at least be back on the road. Meanwhile I'll get together a turbo engine and probably a PIMP to bring it back to SVO status.

[phipplet]

For a minute there I thought he bought a hovercraft!

[CraigB]

You may say I "picked up" another Mustang. ;)

[etc1006]

Other than color, looks like my 93. Lemme guess, sunroof, AC, no power windows/mirrors/locks? I got the cam and fan for my SVO from a twin to this one.

[CraigB]

Yes, same options. They must have been cranking them out for some reason.

[etc1006]

Its funny I never saw one til I bought mine. Then whenever I went to the P&P I'd find one!

[CraigB]

Still working on this project, just not very often.

I did buy the drivetrain from a 1985-1986 Turbocoupe. The ever evolving plan now is to put it together as light as possible and beat the crap out of the car at the track and autox.

Need to track down a decent hood, but it's not a priority. A dash that is one piece would be a good thing too.

[Rlessary]

Looking forward to see the finished project!

[CraigB]

It'll be awhile. I'm hoping this winter to get the rust fixed. I need to get the 1993 parts car cut up for the panels.