It begins.....86 SVO getting prepped for paint...

[scenario]

Holy crap! I have dreaded doing this for 22 yrs I have owned this SVO.

My factory FORD paint job crapped out sometime when sometime when the 1st George Bush was President. Its just had yrs and yrs of touchup and primer and it is time to make it right. The original paint just basically FLAKED off all over the place. Mostly wherever the sun was on it.

Looks like I will have to go down right to the metal on a lot of it. What a big job to take it down. I got the hood, the roof and both front fenders taken down and part of the hatch. It is tough to do it with a DA but thats how I have done it thus far.

The doors and rear clip I have been thinking about doing with a chemical strip. At least to get through the majority of it and then hit the final bits with the DA.

Looks pretty good so far, but I must admit I really dont have too much experience doing this and I am gonna do it ALL myself. Just plugging away doing one panel at a time and then priming it.

Here are some pics so far.

[scenario]

165216511653

[SVOC]

Oh I feel for you, pending on how you do it, you still have a lot of work ahead of you, believe me I know.

But I am glad to see someone else giving it a whirl.


Jeff - ;)

[MikeFleming]

Start by taking all the trim and window trim off the car so you don't damage it when buffing/stripping/grinding paint off.

Next, remove all the lights and front/rear bumper covers for same reason. Those items should be cleaned/sanded/stripped separately.

Yep - LOTS of work there.

[SVOC]

^^ someone's has already been hitting the sauce today :P ^^

[scenario]

I got most of the trim off after the pics were taken. The paint on the bumper covers will not need to be taken down. They will be scuffed reshot. For whatever reason the paint held up pretty good on those. I got the antenna mount off and all the window trim. The molding under the doors (rocker area) that goes the length. It just snapped off carefully, freakin miracle I didnt screw em up since I had no idea how to do them.

I also got the lights out now. I got that molding off over the window that has one screw and like 6 snap / like connectors. I need new dew wipes that go on the outside and new rubber weatherstripping.

Can anyone tell me how difficult it is to remove the lock tumblers and the door handles. I would like paint those areas nice without taping but if it is extemely difficult than maybe I wont???


I want this to come out nice but at the end of the day it is also my driver and not a show car.

[SVO4PWR2]

Do you own the U-Haul trailer?

-RICH-

[MikeFleming]

On the inside of the door jamb area on he door is a L-shapped spring plate that retains the door lock cylinders. Once that's removed, the lock cylinder will fall out of the door - only retained by the plastic attachment to the lock link rod that goes to the lock actuator motor (if electric locks). You'll easily see how to get the rod off.

Get new lock cylinder gaskets when you re-install the locks to keep from chipping the paint.

The rear clip is retained by a pop rivit. Drill it, pull the spring plate and pull the cylinder and rod straight out of the latch mechanism.

1655165616571658165916601661166216631664

[MikeFleming]

Moar Bear wants Moar!

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[JTurbo]

Can anyone tell me how difficult it is to remove the lock tumblers and the door handles. I would like paint those areas nice without taping but if it is extemely difficult than maybe I wont???

Door handles are rivited on. Simply drill out the rivets and then remove the rod from the back side of the handle assembly (inside the door). Just remember to leave one of the windows down....

[SVOC]

Door handles are rivited on. Simply drill out the rivets....

Sorry I actually beg to differ on this, the stud in the middle of the factory rivet make is a complete PITA to drill, I find it much easier and less likely to damage the outer sheet metal to go in through the door and remove the rivets

Then Use a long zip tie attached to the door rod to grab hold of the rod, and push it down to open the door when need be:

https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/418556_382591445093248_24743651_n.jpg

https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/421659_382591521759907_1053413400_n.jpg

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/429419_382591645093228_1241258329_n.jpg

If you look closely you can see zip tie hanging out of the door.

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/302351_263287383690322_7392584_n.jpg

[MikeFleming]

^
We need to get you some red zip ties!!

[SVOC]

I was heart broken that you didn't media blast and paint the lock retainers, I'm just saddened :(

[Bill Lumberg voice] This isn't a half day or anything......[/Lumberg voice]

http://www.svocop.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1667&d=1349148250

[scenario]

Thanks


Rich, I do own the trailer. My Father had bought it years ago from guy that was a uhaul dealer. If you need to borrow it, its right here in Long Island.

[scenario]

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/302351_263287383690322_7392584_n.jpg


I had this exact car with T-Tops! Mine was an 85 not sure of this one, hard to tell they were identical on the outside except for the 3rd brake light.

[scenario]

BTW

Antone who has paint experience I was wondering.

Since I am doing this one section at a time and am going down to bare metal. I am spraying the bare metal with self etching primer. I strarted with sherwin williams 988 self etch but just got some rustoleum self etching automotive primer.

I just doing this to keep from surface rusting until I prime the car. I am going to end up priming it (the ENTIRE car) with urethane primer before I apply the basecoat.

I dont know anyother way to do it and was just wondering if the rustolem stuff was ok to use, I was figuring self etching primer is self etching primer.

?

[MikeFleming]

I was heart broken that you didn't media blast and paint the lock retainers, I'm just saddened
Sorry for the heart break.

However I did media blast them with large walnut shells to keep the original blueing finish. I would have replaced them with new ones but the NOS ones I found looked worse with shelf rust.

Sigh.

[SVOC]

I had this exact car with T-Tops! Mine was an 85 not sure of this one, hard to tell they were identical on the outside except for the 3rd brake light.

This is an 85' GT (CFI) with an AOD, it is the Bookend to the 85' LX (4bbl) 5.0 5spd:

https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/318763_266573296695064_3742107_n.jpg


And like the Ghia is has been rescued and is undergoing a restoration as well:

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/394651_321737264512000_1479755524_n.jpg

[scenario]

My 85 GT was 4bbl Holley with a steel clutch fan. My buddy had a late 85 with a plastic clutch fan. Are you saying yours was a late 85 with fuel injection?


Not to get too far off topic but I still was wondering

"Since I am doing this one section at a time and am going down to bare metal. I am spraying the bare metal with self etching primer. I strarted with sherwin williams 988 self etch but just got some rustoleum self etching automotive primer.

I just doing this to keep from surface rusting until I prime the car. I am going to end up priming it (the ENTIRE car) with urethane primer before I apply the basecoat.

I dont know anyother way to do it and was just wondering if the rustolem stuff was ok to use, I was figuring self etching primer is self etching primer. "


Thanks


Frank V

[Lanes84s]

are you surprised about the cfi? i have an 84 gt and cfi was an option though mine was a 4bbl from the factory.

[SVO4PWR2]

I do own the trailer. My Father had bought it years ago from guy that was a uhaul dealer. If you need to borrow it, its right here in Long Island.

I tried to buy a U-haul not too long ago and they said they dont sell them to the public. I've pulled them on occasion and they're good trailers.
If i spot a car for sale out on the island or if i get stranded i know where to go, Thanks!

Keep it going with your SVO and maybe we'll see ya at Carlisle.

-RICH-

[dagenham]

It is best to stick with one brand of paint from start to finish. I would not use the rustoleum at all. If you are sanding down as far as your going I would recomend a couple of coats of high build primer over the self etching primer and then block sand the whole car.
It is more work but you will have a nicer job in the end.

[SVOC]

all 5.0 autos from 83-84 were CFI, all 5.0 5spd cars of the same years were 4bbl Holley/Motorcrafts

[CraigB]

1985 5.0/autos where CFI too. My 1985 Capri 5.0 is...

[SVOC]

1985 5.0/autos where CFI too. My 1985 Capri 5.0 is...


You are correct as that what I own and was the car in question, I should post after dinner and lots of drinks.

[SVOC]

Back to the painting in question, I was reading an magazine article from a leading restoration company about prep and painintng, and here are a few pointers of the higher that I will bestow:

Like previously mentioned before, use the highest quality paint products, and it's ok to mix and match brands but NOT stages (if you use one primer, stay with it, ETC)

They best one I like and I have used this, it a razor blade to remove the old paint, it will show you if the paint adhered to the primer or not.

If going to metal remove everything, that includes mud/putty

his spray techniques where way different than I had seen:

Spray 2 primer 30min between each, 1 hours between coats 2/3 coats, this apply to the base coat except you wait till the next day to do the base coat.

on the clear a wet 2/3 coats with an hour between coats, let it sit for 2days to two weeks, color sand with 1500, then 2000, then 2500, let the car sit 2 days, then shoot with 2 wet coats, and let sit for three days, buff with wool pads and put nothing on the paint for better than 90 day so it can still out gas "Breath"

[scenario]

I am thinking about possibly getting a replacement drivers door for this car?

Will any FOX door work? 79 to 93???

[ChrisCurtin]

I am thinking about possibly getting a replacement drivers door for this car?

Will any FOX door work? 79 to 93???

80 or 81-86 without and changes, 87+ you'll need to grind off the rivets that hold the door molding off. Pre 87 are flat, 87+ have a black flat molding. 79 to early/mid 80 had 'low' pulls on the inside that I don't think you can use with the SVO door panels.

Chris

[scenario]

Thanks

I have to get through some bondo and skim coat to see how bad it is. So far I think I may keep what I have but just have to keep my options open.

[dagenham]

1817181818191820
Here is what mine looke like earlier this year. Look familiar yet????:)

[scenario]

I got a lil bump in the road.

I had some Hurricane Sandy damage to my SVO. All my trim and panels were "safely" in my shed until a huge tree took it out. Upper and lower spoilers were destroyed aand some trim as well. Have not had much time to sort thru things yet but I am certainly unhappy!

Pics to follow!

[MikeFleming]

Ouch! Save what you can.

You got power?

[scenario]

yes we got power back. I lost it for 8 days. Some others lost for longer. I havent had time to take pics, I will when I get a chance. My house is a refugee camp. I got mom who was flooded out and my wifes sister who got flooded out as well living with us. Although I didnt get flooded I did have my share of damage, possibly $40k worth.

Sandy was a BIT*H!!!

[MikeFleming]

Be careful out there.

[scenario]

19421943

[scenario]

1945
here is the upper section

[scenario]

Luckily I scored a set on ebay. I wonder if it was anyone from here who was selling it. The wing from ebay is in great shape and not painted either so its factory flat black.

[Bob Holmes]

Nice score.

Bummer to hear about the damage and the living situation. Hopefully things will clear up reasonably soon.

[Patrick]

Did homeowners insurance cover your loss?

[scenario]

My adjuster comes out next week. I believe cars and their parts removed or not removed are NOT covered and boat parts upto $1000.00. I had boat damage from same tree. I also had 2 1949 Oldsmobile fenders and a hood that got a bit banged up. (the one fender is in original Olds packaging.....).

I got off lucky like I said before, this is just personal property and my living conditions are just fine!

[scenario]

You see the stainless steel box that is all crumpled up? I had 3 original 427 L-88 cast iron exhaust manifolds (a matched pair and an extra) in there among a few other goodies. Luckily they survived!

[stockman1]

yikes I feel for you, that really sucks!

[scenario]

SVO is painted and back on the road. Still have to put some of the trim on and need to paint the trim. I am going to paint the trim a flat or semi gloss black. I will keep the factory scheme. ie. the wing, window trim, and moldings will be all the same black color. I will post some pics.
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[MikeFleming]

Looking very good!!

[BLK BRD 88]

Thumbs up to you for how nice it looks & for your persistence.
Ron

[18lbs]

Nice!

[TheSVOTrust]

WOW
When I first saw the broken spoiler - I thought you were "fixing" for you car - then saw the tree !!
Was going to offer to deliver a set - as I just used NOS on the MacTools car being painted.

Mark

[JTurbo]

Congrats on the re-paint, looks good!

[escogt]

Looks great!! Love the color!!

[scenario]

Here is an updae with some of the trimmings:

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The spoiler I picked up on ebay... I just could not wait to put it on.

[scenario]

I have the 3rd taillight from the destroyed spoiler and its plastic housing. The housing is slightly cracked but I think I can make it work. I will have to roto-zip or dremmel out the opening on the new spoiler but am not in a rush to do it. I also have to paint the moldings that are embossed on the front and rear bumper covers. I will prob wait a few months before I do that. I dont want to put any tape on the car at this time when I mask it off. Once I paint the moldings and the window trim, mirrors and hood scoop it should look real good.

These pics dont do the color justice it looks real nice, just a hair darker than stock but matches the jambs perfect.

Frank V

[scenario]

I am in need of a pair of spats, if anyone comes across a set please PM me. I have only have the drivers side spat but I figure I am only going to find a pair....if I am lucky!

[TheSVOTrust]

Did your upper spoiler have the studs that pass through the deck lid? (or did you use them on the NOS piece)

Mark

[scenario]

My original spoiler was repainted to match the original color of the car. It was removed to do this and the original hardware was replaced with stainless screws that went through the spoiler into existing holes. This was done before I owned the car (before 1992).

My replacement wing had some lag bolts that were rigged to secure it on whatever SVO it came from. I did what was done to my old spoiler by using stainless screws. I will touch them up with black paint. Atleast I know the spoilers are secure in place. Does not look too bad.

My replacement had some of the mounting bosses snapped off and the upper spoiler seemed to have the bosses snapped off as well. Not sure if I answered your question though.

[TheSVOTrust]

Yeah
Funny - I search and searched last night for the stud info on the upper spoiler and I found a post BY ME on Foureyepride years ago ! LOL

I think I may have what I need - just forgot what car to look at for it !
Mark
P.S. You can make them out of the marker light studs and threaded insert nuts (to lengthen)

[scenario]

I experimented with semi gloss black on the scoop and side view mirrors. As compared to the spoiler which is factory original I think the semi gloss black is a better looking accent color. It will stand out more.

I know it is not factory correct but I think I am going with the semi gloss. I wont be able to add it to the front and rear bumper covers until after the winter unless I do it inside somewhere. I want to at least leave the paint of the car alone for two months before I start taping anything off.

This is going to be a DD and I just want it to at least look good in case I ever run into one of you guys....lol.

[scenario]

BTW

Off topic. I just acquired my grandfathers 1953 Buick 2 door HT. The car has only been owned by my Grandparents and my cousin who has had it since 1986. All original but repainted 20 yrs ago. 30,200 original miles and the seats and door panels have been covered since the day it came home in jan 1953. Typical old school Italians, you know like the way they covered the furniture in plastic. They did the same thing to the car. HAHAHAHA!

5526

[BLK BRD 88]

Whoa, What an early Christmas Gift!
Congratulations, I am drooling all over my monitor looking at that beauty!!!!
Ron

[MikeFleming]

Very sweet ride! Many years ago when i had a shop at the beach, I had a customer with several early 50's Caddys and Buicks. He brought me his cars for all their maintenance and repairs. I suspect it did look strange to have couple Porsche Turbos, a couple Ferraris and an occasionla old caddy in the shop.

[TheSVOTrust]

So cool ! SO COOL that have passed it from family member to member. I see too many situations where "people" fight over car (collections) and it never ends good! (except for the lawyers and the buyers)

You may consider putting that car in an INSURANCE TRUST for your kids !

Mark
P.S. Aside from the story - the other thing is it is ORIGINAL !! Everyone that has restored cars in collections are now "finding favor in FINDING original cars". Best thing you can do is just change the moth balls/Irish spring and gas ONLY !

[MikeFleming]

Best thing you can do is just change the moth balls/Irish spring and gas ONLY ! And oil, brake fluid, diff fluid, etc. Those fluids wear out (especially after 60 years!) and will bring rust and LOTS of expensive damage (if attempting to keep it all original).

That is definitely a family treasure.

[scenario]

Thanks guys!

I have been a busy beaver with the SVO. Got some more trim painted and going to snap some back on over the weekend. Coming along nice. So far so good.

[scenario]

5552

Bumper covers painted semi-gloss Black. All the window trim as well.

So much has happened since I De-trimmed and painted I thought the Hood Scoop was painted to match the trim originally but realized that is not the case. Does not look bad I may keep it like that. LOL.

[Coney Warrior]

Looks good brother, like seeing a project come to form. All the while I been reading this thread and I didn't realize how close to me you live.

[dagenham]

Looking good! If everyone that has a collector car of any year make or model to restore complains about how much a nice paint job costs, they obviously have no clue how much work is involved!!
Like I told my brother-in -law a couple weeks ago, "have you ever seen a fat body guy?"

[scenario]

Pretty much done. Well the exterior anyway!
718671877188718971907191

[scenario]

The wing is an 84 and I added the third tail light from my wing that got destroyed. The 84 went perfect with the color scheme I wanted (semi-gloss black instead of flat charcoal or whatever it is called on a stock 86 svo). the 84 wing is not painted and matches perfect!

[Chalky]

Looks really good man!!!!

[brsvo]

I got my 86 1E with black wings and I would not change them for the charcoal no matter what the purists tell me!!

[JTurbo]

Very nice.

You might want to consider a set of bi-wing supports soon...

[Ford Builder]

Looking Good.

[scenario]

Yes, I have my eye on my sagging spoiler!

[svono50]

Very nice! That gray is really growing on me, but white is still my favorite color on an SVO...must be because I own a black one?!? The black trim looks better with certain colors than the charcoal trim and yours is certainly one of them.

[MikeFleming]

That gray is really growing on me, but white is still my favorite color on an SVO...must be because I own a black one?!? Sounds like you were underexposed to red as a child. We have therapy for that condition.

[scenario]

My rims are beat up and clearcoat is shot. Any suggestions?

[dznj]

My rims are beat up and clearcoat is shot. Any suggestions?

I had my wheels re-done and cleared by a guy in CT. If interested, let me know and I can post the info.

D

[Rosamond SVO]

I used mothers mag paste and a dremel tool. they cleaned up realy nice.