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Mallethead
10-18-2012, 07:56 PM
Hi All,
I have an 85 4e that I am finally getting too. I would really, really like to get it going before I move to Alabama next week. Here is the skinny;

I had the engine and transmission rebuilt about two years ago. I have not been home to mess with the car, so it sat. I tried to start it and it would kick over but not catch. I figured it was bad gas so I put a siphon to it and found out there was NO gas in the car. I put 5 gallons in and tried to start it with no luck.

I pulled the intercooler and sprayed a small amount of starter fluid in. The engine turned over but would still not fire. I have a hard time hearing but I cannot hear if the fuel pump is priming at first key turn.

I also put a small amount of fresh gas into the T/B and it kicked over and ran for a second or two, but then died. I tried to flood the engine and pumped the gas pedal several times but did not smell anything.

I have had a battery charger on it and it should have plenty of volts to kick the injectors in, so I dont believe that is the cause. My plan is to check the fuse in the morning and go from there. Unfortunately I am no good at electrical issues so if you reply please do it at an elementary level...yes, its that bad!

I did push the fuel pump reset switch in the trunk, but had the same results. I looked under the carpet on the drivers side but did not see a relay there. The seats are out of the car so I dont think I could miss it. Did the 85 have a relay there? If not, where?

Thanks for the help and any suggestions you may have, it is really appreciated!


Wayne (Mallethead)

MikeFleming
10-18-2012, 08:37 PM
I'll assume it fired briefly but would not continue to run with the short blast of starter spray?

Here's an easy to check for fuel flow. Note that the rest of the fuel rail will be under full system pressure as long as the pumps are working properly.

Find and disconnect the fuel return line. It uses a Duck Bill fitting that needs a special tool to remove without damaging it (if the white part gets damaged, your local Ford dealer and most auto parts stores with have a replacement white retainer).

The tool:
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The return line is the rear-most one (black in the pic) that fits over the smaller of the two fuel tubes on the rail. 1771

How the tool works with the fuel line fitting - it spreads the two tabs so the connector can slip off (and back on again!).
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Fuel return tube without the return fuel line connected.
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One end of a six foot section of 1/4" low-pressure fuel hose (and clamp) on exposed end of fuel return tube. he clamp is just a safety measure so the hose does not get accidentally pulled off while the pump(s) are on. That would make a mess.
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Self-test connector location to engage fuel pump (when ignition is in Run position). Also see here: http://www.svocop.com/forum/showthread.php?516-Fuel-system-question&p=2921&viewfull=1#post2921
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Grounding (to battery) the fuel pump pin of the Self-Test connector. Yes, that's a tiny battery but it's plenty big enough to start this engine. AKA "The Little Battery That Can".
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Other end of that six foot section of fuel hose with ignition with a suitable catch can.
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Moving the ignition switch to Run position will engage the pump(s) and they will turn off with the ignition switch.

HTH!