brsvo's ongoing project

[brsvo]

I have been after a header for some time now and finaly got a used Rods Header off TF. ( It had a broken tap in it) Most of you know me and my 86 1E SVO. This all started back in 97 when I bought my car from the Best Man from my wedding. He lived in Long Beach and bought the car new. I had only had the car for one year and I took the car out in spring and cranked the boost controller and bent all the intake valves. It seems the stock springs weren't up to what ever I threw at them (stock boost gauge) and so it started. I knew nothing about turbo Fords and the OOA was no help. (I had no computer back then). I did however get an Essilinger catalog along with the car! Determined not to bend valves again I ordered stainless stock valves (the head had been cracked before and my buddy thought he had it welded) and heavy duty springs from Esslinger. The machine shop I worked through ran into clearance problems with the retainers and followers. They clearanced the bottom of the followers to clear the retainers. While I had the head apart in 98 I took after it with my die grinder and did a pocket port job on it. I ran it this way until 2 years ago when a HLA went south and I decided to put in a RR cam. This swap brought up the clearance problem again and I had to get different locks from Bo to lower the installed height of the spring. Ever since the roller followers have been in the valve train has been noisy and after inspection I realized that the little clearance I had wasn't enough. So when I bought the Header I decided winter was the time to do the head with proper parts in the proper way.

[brsvo]

So I took my head into the local speed shop to get it cleaned and magnafluxed. They told me to look for a new head!! I knew it had been repaired once because of over heating when stuck in LA traffic and the stock fan switch failed. I thought it had been welded but it was apparently stitched? 2 cylinders have stitches and hardened seats now. See pic of cyl #3. Also cyl #4 has cracks thru the exhaust seat down into the port. The pic doesn't show it well but in person it looks pretty bad. I thought I was starting with a head that was close to ported and big valves but now I had to find a different head. SVOPONY was good enough to offer his spare 86 head to me. I picked it up today and disassembled it and I couldn't believe how the ports look! They look so small after looking at mine for so long! I am taking this head to the shop tomorrow for cleaning and magnufluxing - wish me luck.

[brsvo]

This is what the stock head looks like. Looks like I have my work cut out for me!

[MikeFleming]

Yep stock heads need lots of work. Be sure to have the replacement core crack-checked first.

[brsvo]

Goes in tomorrow after work I hope.

[brsvo]

Dropped off the head today hope to hear good news soon. I drilled the tap out of my header and ran a chaser thru it. Istalled the stud I bought and the studs not square. Aparently they broke the tap because it was cross threaded. Thought about welding the hole and re machining but after talking to my place of employment they advised me that 300 series stainless moves around alot just milling it never mind welding. I have Keylocking threaded inserts I have decided to try. I used them in my ported E6 and they worked fine. They are 300 series also and the thought was drilling and tapping would be far less stress than removing the 3 good studs and welding re milling the flange flat.

[MikeFleming]

Looks familiar. Have seen that same quality control issue with Rod's stuff before.
2923

BTW - Those thread inserts you're considering are rated to a MAX of 600 F. Certainly wouldn't want to use them in a turbo application where stock temps reach 1650 F. In any case check with the mfgr about the max temp recommendation.

[brsvo]

They have been in my E6 since 98 without problem. If you know of a better quality one available let me know.

[MikeFleming]

I'm not aware of any thread insert that's rated - by the manufacturer - to over 600 F.

[brsvo]

When I purchased them it was stated they were 304 stainless. The same material as the header? The only thing that may fail is the locks. The locks may not go into stainless either. This I didn't consider!
I have bigger problems than this now as the 2nd head I just took in is cracked in 2 exhaust seats too. Does anyone know the diameter of the OS hardened exhaust seats? I am hoping these may come out while machining for the seats.

[MikeFleming]

The stock turbo heads do not use seat inserts - the cast iron was merely flame hardened in-place on the exhaust seats. Any competent automotive machine shop can machine out the casting and press/roll in replacement stellite (or whatever is the current seat material). Or you can send it to Bo if you're on the West side of hte big island.

[brsvo]

I knew the stock heads had no inserts. I was trying to figure out if the cracks would machine out with an insert. After checking 2 heads that came off of running cars and they both were cracked I'm discouraged! Now I have researched Esslinger heads and decided that aluminum is not going to be dependable for for the long haul and may be overkill for my app. After talking to Bo at Bo port I think my tax returns will be sent his way. I really wanted to do this my self but finding a crack free head may be more of a challenge than I thought. Bo will sell me a stage 3 head that is crack free and told me the 2.1 cam will make my 300+ HP goal with around 10lbs of boost! He also has the experiance and tools to not go too far while doing the SSR. I thought of a 2.5 cam as I always go too conservative and end up redoing it later. Bo told me to use the 2.1 and if it wasn't enough he would take it back for a 2.5 for $50. Its hard to not go this way.

[MikeFleming]

The only way to now how far the crack goes into the head, is to machine it out for the replacement seat. Problem then becomes that if the crack is still there (most likely), then now you're got machining time and costs into what may well be a useless head.

With the proper seat insert material, it *might* be possible to solder the seats into the head for sealing, but it's an expensive and risky process with no guaranteed results.

On another note, it's difficult to not send all your money to Bo. He makes it too easy.

[brsvo]

I have been told there are welders out there that can fix it also but I may end up with alot of money and work into a head that does not hold up. On my Esslinger head thread the question came up what are my goals. I would like to make over 300HP on as little boost as possible using pump gas here in WI. That said its 93 with 10% ethenol or 91 without. The 93 runs much better than the 91 for sure. I have turned the boost up too much with the stock injectors and don't want to go down that road again. I am thinking stage 3 Boport with a PIMP managment system for fuel. Will be going to larger injectors and staying as close to stock ignition as the PIMP will allow for cost reasons. I am spending way more than I ever planned but the right parts should make my car more reliable in the long run. I don't want to crack a stage 3! Also keep it drivable for car shows and the like. Open track events are also on the horizon.

[MikeFleming]

I am spending way more than I ever planned ... Yeah, Scope Creep is a very dangerous disease.

[brsvo]

Well the tax return came today. Now to get ahold of Bo and work out the deal there. Scope creep is very dangorus indeed! I would like to do an external wastegate but that will involve modifying the Rods Header, buying the wastegate and modifying the exhaust. Guess it will have to wait. I did get motivated to take the porting tool to what I could reach inside the header and knock down the welds that were protruding into the pipes. Tried to get pics but they stink. Its hard to take a picture inside of a header! When the head comes then I can port my intake manifold to match it and I will finally have something I can do! Which was the point of taking the head off in the fall.

[brsvo]

I have repaired the crooked stud with a 304 stailess insert and chased the treads of the studs. mocked up the header on my bare head and figured out the bolt locations. I don't like the lack of meat with the socket head screws. I don't feel good about drilling them for safty wire as the heads look too weak. Mike what are you doing for bolts?

[MikeFleming]

I drilled them. Works just fine.

[brsvo]

Thanks for the reply.

[brsvo]

Well I made a little progress. Got a well ventilated catch can installed. Also my wideband sensor is at least in the pipe.
4025

[MikeFleming]

Two more check marks on the Completed list!!

You will soon find that as you check off items on the To Do / Completed lists, that both lists tend to grow.

[brsvo]

The next question is what head gasket to run and where to get head bolts.

[brsvo]

Well this is encouraging! Rebuilt my 8.8 trac loc last weekend and today got a real live tracking number from Fed Ex (BoPort). Expected delivery Tuesday the 7th.

[brsvo]

Just an update. Made some progress, got the head on and the header installed for the most part. It looks like I will have to make a different turbo coolant line as the stocker doesn't clear the K&N on the turbo and is touching the header. Put the head on last night and came home form work today and found the cam towers with lite surface rust. Oil and a rag took it off but it scared me for a moment.

[MikeFleming]

You lost me completely: Why would the turbo coolant lines interfere with the turbo inlet or air filter?

The one that shows in the top picture (above) that goes from the oil cooler to the water pump port should be tight up against the cylinder head/cam cover.
4278
4279
4280

[brsvo]

For the moment I was going to put the K&N on the front of the turbo. Tube E5ZZ-ABA520 touches the header and is in the way of the air cleaner as is.

[MikeFleming]

Stock turbo? Mine (same turbo coolant out tube) clears without any issue - same header.

[brsvo]

Yes its stock. I guess there are some variances in production. It just barely touches the header. Proper CAI would solve the other issue, something I planned on down the road. I just feel it would be better not to heat the coolant any more than needed. If I find the tools and material it shouldn't be a big deal. It was difficult to safety wire the header with the tubes so close to the bolts. I hope it stays tight.

[brsvo]

Question-I have been accused of over tightening things! (no doubt correctly) I don't want things to come apart! So how tight do you tighten a V band clamp and or flat band clamps for inter cooler tubing?

[Keasbey]

look at his turbo's inlet.. not stock.. it points straight foward.. it might be the problem?

[brsvo]

Just to clarify the V band is 3" exhaust and the flat band clamps are for the charge cooler. My turbo is stock except for the 3" straight inlet. I believe Rod made a number of changes to the header during the production run. But I may be wrong and the later might have been center mounts?

[BLK BRD 88]

Great thread and super pics!
Ron

[MikeFleming]

Just dimple the filter. it's a foam-covered wire mesh that can be easily deformed. Might look ugly but it'll work just fine.

[brsvo]

Well I did just what you said and the car is running. I had to add 50% more fuel to the base tune I was provided before it started and after some playing it drives ok. No boost yet as the A/F is jumping around a lot. I did a data log but my Tuner Studio won't recognize the log viewer. Don't know why. I installed it all at the same time from my Pimp purchase.

[Chalky]

Just a thought, you may want to move that air filter forward some, you're gonna be sucking a LOT of hot air where it's sitting.

[brsvo]

I need to do a CAI for it! I have been playing with the Pimp system and it got me for a while. The AFR was jumping from 10-18 over and over. I thought it was a poor wiring job(I'm no pro with wiring) But after all the reading I have done I got in the car and got too conservative for my own good. Rich misfires make the AFR go way lean on the gauge. I have been leaning it out and now its running pretty good off boost. In boost even though the AFR is where it should be I am getting a bad miss. Sounds like compressor surge. I am wondering if my Tial BPV is a problem or if my turbo/wastegate just isn't big enough for the head and cam? (Evergeen T3/T4 with a clipped turbine wheel and who knows what compressor) When I ordered it from Charlie 5 years ago I told him mildly ported head and a cam in the future. When I E mailed him to ask what wheels were in it he said the records were in cold storage so he couldn't tell me. With the boost controller I bought turned all the way down it still makes boost very early and more than I want this far into the tune.

[brsvo]

I moved the air cleaner down away from the header but wasn't happy with that. After playing with the tune this morning and having a beer with lunch it was time to move on. Pulled the BOV and will make a block off plate at work to take that out of the equation. On to the CAI. I had stuff laying around from old projects, so here is the progress. I'm one 12 piece of 3"aluminum tubing and one straight connector away from an air cleaner in the fender well.

[MikeFleming]

Sounds like progress to me!

[brsvo]

Well its been a trip! Here are the pics of the CAI completed. Boost control issues and a whacko AFR guage while attempting to tune the PIMP system resulted in a blown head gasket. So it comes back apart again. I read somewhere that a re torque of the head bolts after a heat cycle is a good idea. I didn't do that maybe I should this time. Will check all the decks for flatness for sure. I am torn about going to a external wastegate. Not sure I need it but boost spikes with the control I have now bother me. It would be a lot more work and expense.

[SVOC]

Nice work :)

[svopony]

well at least you figured out you newest problem.... sorry to here that................


I can say that Bruces car is a blast to ride in, she crouches down on the right rear, and lifts the whole front end and you better be hanging for one heck of a wild ride.
would like to get another ride after the suspension is refreshed.


thanks Bruce, Bar

[BLK BRD 88]

The fresh air system that you installed is what I need to do for my K & N to get cool fresh air to it.
That is a nice looking setup, and no doubt much more effective, now that it is in the fender & out of the engine compartment.
Ron

[brsvo]

I was amazed how much room there was inside the fender! Being an 86 it was easy to do and cheap too. I wish I still had my air there though. Would have made it a little tougher.

[brsvo]

Well I finally got the PIMP fixed and tuned to my liking. Better late than never. I want to say that with all that happened I would recommend a PIMP system to anyone thinking of this upgrade. Stinger and Wess K are very easy to deal with and have enough patience for people like me who have 0 experience with this type of thing. Next I am going to do my bottom end over the winter. This would be a good time to do the front end also. Will post in the appropriate forums on these possibilities.

[in2fords]

Nice to see you moving along on your project :)
I have used a couple piggy backs in the past and tried learning linux once, I never really trusted myself and couldn't really get the hang of it or tell if what I was doing was right or not but was able to muddle through it for a while. Im ordering the PiMP next week, already ordered their FMIC and complete exhaust including the 3" turbo outlet. Im hoping for a experience like yours, I think I can handle it but am nervous then I keep hearing everyone that gets one that it can be learned pretty quick and is self tunning for the most part.et us know as you learn more on the PiMP for those of us getting one or thinking of getting one :)

[brsvo]

They are great fun to learn. The self tuning thing works after you know a little about it. I being a less than average computer user was challenged by the terminology from time to time. The great part is if you have questions you have some one to ask. They were pretty good about getting back to you in short order. If you read long enough your answers are on Stingers website. The one thing I will say is follow the directions to the letter. Its way to easy to think you already have something covered and then you find its not. I had a hard time remembering to save tunes before shutting off the car, old habit of stopping and turning the key off. Learn about the burn and save as, before you get in too far or you can loose all your work. Then when you redo it remember to set all the parameters over or you may be trying to tune a 350 V8-trust me it doesn't work so well.

[SnakePlisskin]

Just read the whole thread nice work! What does the Pimp system cost?

[Meotchh]

Just read the whole thread nice work! What does the Pimp system cost?

Here is the info on Stinger's site: http://www.stinger-performance.com/universalparts.html

[brsvo]

Doing a search on TF I found SVO oil pan with a baffle in it? Mine has no baffle, did the factory put in baffles? I have a big ding in my oil pan. I see them for sale on Rock auto for $59 without the baffle. Wondering what is correct, Bruce

[MikeFleming]

Correct, no factory sump baffles.

[brsvo]

Well this is very discouraging. We were going to assemble my short block yesterday and the first thing we did stopped us in our tracks. Seems Ford screwed up the auxillary shaft bearing bore and went oversize on it. Not a problem for Ford in 86. Just put a bigger bearing in the hole. Now the bearing part number comes up discontinued and a dealer search found nothing. Called the bearings Inc. in our area and they told me I'm out of luck with them. So what do I do? Maybe I can make a bronze one? Looking for ideas, Bruce

[brsvo]

OK misinformation cost me a couple of weeks but the bearing issue is resolved-Thank you Brian Esslinger. I have gotten to degreeing the cam and now have to plot it on a graph to see where it falls. Its a big step in the right direction-YEA!
7131

[BLK BRD 88]

I am glad to hear that you got the bearing problem worked out ok....it did not sound like good news a couple of weeks ago on post #51.
Ron

[MikeFleming]

I have gotten to degreeing the cam and now have to plot it on a graph to see where it falls. "I'll show you mine if you show me yours".

Without valve caps:
7134

With 0.150" valve caps:
7135

[brsvo]

I take it the lash caps changed the geometry and that changed the curve? The second one looks steeper.

[MikeFleming]

Changed geometry, yes. The thing to notice is the effective longer valve stem (with lash caps) makes the peak lift lower.

Note the vertical blue line (lower graph) is exactly at the center overlap point, which came in exactly at 371 [crank] degrees, 11 degrees. he vertical yellow line is the split overlap zero point, aka 360 crank degrees. To set the cam from it's currently retarded (as measured) position to zero, it needs to be advanced 5.5 cam degrees.

[brsvo]

Are either one of these graphs current set up?

[MikeFleming]

No. Those graphs are of the stump puller cam, which was dyno'd at the 2006 SVOCA reunion at 319HP, 367 Tq at it's first dyno test

The current cam is an Essy 2277. Likes the revs real high. May go back to the stump cam someday toughh. Bottom end torque was amazing.

[brsvo]

Well using Excel was a learning experience for me! What cam was the stump puller? How much boost?

[brsvo]

Continue to make progress, I finally got the valve cover back from powder coating. The header is on and I cleaned up the engine bay and did a little paint work yesterday. First time with a safety wire tool!

[brsvo]

Now for some after shots. Also I would like to thank Chalky for the aluminum foil idea works great!
7195
7196

[MikeFleming]

Also I would like to thank Chalky for the aluminum foil idea works great!
Helps keep the extra-terrestrial alien brain waves out of the cars electronics?

[svono50]

Nice use of the foil, better than these folks:

7209

...although just as good of a use as these guys:

7210

[brsvo]

OK well it runs again!! Hooray here is the finished bay.
7226

[baltimucho]

Awesome... in circumstance and looks!

[brsvo]

Thanks, I took a day of vacation yesterday and drove out to the Power Tour route for some break in miles. Got there too late to see much but put 220 miles on the car at least!

[brsvo]

Ok here is the deal. I installed a new clutch and pressure plate along with pilot and throw out bearings. My clutch is out of cable adjustment (NO FREEPLAY) it engages near the top of the pedal travel and when hot the car won't go into gear at a stop. When cold its just OK. If I tighten it more I can get it into gear but that's not right so any suggestions?

[Under Pressure]

Did you pull the clutch pedal up all the way to self adjust the cable tension?

[brsvo]

I have the aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster adjusted all the way out.

[svono50]

I wonder if you are moving the throwout bearing too far into the diaphragm fingers based on your description. If the clutch doesn't engage till the top of the stroke, then you are really pushing the TB way into the diaphragm at the bottom of the pedal throw. Have you tried only pressing down the clutch pedal 1/2 way when hot to see if that helps allow it to go into gear? Kind of wonder if the firewall adjuster needs to move in (toward firewall) a bit rather than out?? Just trying to think of the motions and adjustment points. Another thing to check is the pivot pin in the bell housing...is it fully seated or has it possibly loosened up a bit an fouled up the geometry?

[brsvo]

The clutch pedal is soooo light and smooth I find it hard to believe anything is out of line or adjustment. I didn't take the bell crank apart and it worked fine last year when I took the old clutch out. I never tried going for less but when I tighten the cable more it will go into gear for a short period of time! No noises in function or acceleration. I talked to the outfit I bought it from and they said take it out and check the disc for flatness and the pressure plate drive straps for evenness. I started pulling the clutch and will put in my stock PP after checking disc. If it works then they will take the PP I bought back. I read on other sites that some have put washers under the throw out pivot bolt to solve this. Can't see how that would help if I am using all my pedal travel now!

[brsvo]

Well here is what I found. The disc doesn't seem to be hitting evenly. I put it on the pressure plate and I cant rock it of feel any out of flatness but it definitely isn't wearing even. There is no evidence of contact anywhere else. I will take it to work tomorrow and put it on the surface plate and check for runout.

737573777378

[Under Pressure]

Very nice work! I've blown quite a few head gaskets over the years. I went with ARP head studs & a copper head gasket. What kind of head gasket are you using? I dialed my boost down to 12 psi because I don't trust pump gas.

[brsvo]

Felpro 8993.

[svono50]

Are those oil stains on the fiber side of the disc or just normal color variation? Something certainly isn't right with that setup, the discoloration on the PP disc confirms that you were getting excessive slipping. What kind of runout did you find on the PP disc? How did the flywheel surface look? Inquiring minds want to know...

[brsvo]

OK so I checked the disc for runout-.015". No oil on anything. All told I can't find anything wrong with this clutch. I talked to my supplier and he told me the disc isn't broke in yet that's why it's uneven which after looking closer the wear is where the pucks are and in between is not hitting yet. But the drag is my problem. I have read on TF that some people have had to put a 7/16 washer behind the pivot for the throw out fork. I am thinking of going that direction. I took the cable out and it is same length as a new one I have in the basement and still moves smooth.

[MikeFleming]

0.015" sounds like a lot to me. I would expect a max acceptable runout closer to 0.005", similar to a brake rotor.

[svono50]

Regardless of the runout it certainly sounds like your TB travel isn't far enough. If you cable proves out to not be stretched and smooth moving, I wonder if there is just something a bit fishy with the TB bearing or the pressure plate finger design?? Certainly frustrating.

[brsvo]

I put the clutch assembly and flywheel in the press today. Stock moves .054" at 3/8 throw out and .074 at 1/2". The new one is .030 at 3/8 and .060" at 1/2. I also inspected the dog bone closer and found the ball ends are worn and maybe the cable itself is stretched a little. Am torn if I should put in the old PP with the new disc or the new PP. Both with a new dog bone of course.

[svono50]

I know it is a lot of work, but at this point it may be worth a shot at the old PP/new disc/old dog bone combo to see if it cures your 'way too high' catch situation. This would verify if it is indeed the action of that new PP. The dog bone cable is fairly easy to change, so then you could throw the new one in at that point to see if it has any effect on things. Personally your current DB looks in good condition.

Although, it would seem that the new PP would tend to not fully disengage the disc and you would get engagement right off the floor rather than barely catching at the top of the throw.

[TurboRay]

Those graphs are of the stump puller cam, which was dyno'd at the 2006 SVOCA reunion at 319HP, 367 Tq at it's first dyno test.

Stump-puller cam = Ranger roller? If not.....what cam is it, Mike? http://forum.turboford.org/ubb/graemlins/dunno.gif

[MikeFleming]

Stump-puller cam = Ranger roller? If not.....what cam is it, Mike? http://forum.turboford.org/ubb/graemlins/dunno.gif Hey Ray! Long time!

Nah, I am not an advocate of loosing power using a RR. The cam I refer to the stump puller made this dyno chart on it's first session:
7686

It measures 0.565" lift, 240 degrees (@ 0.050"). Same profile intake and exhaust
.7685

After running the Essy 2277 for a while, I've decided I like to have "some* power below 4000.

[brsvo]

So is that a custom grind or are you just keeping the manufacturer a secret?

[TurboRay]

Hey, Mike! Based on my ghetto extrapolation (laying dividers between the lobe noses, transferring it to the hash marks at the bottom and dividing by 2), it appears that this cam has an LSA of around 110°. It also appears to have about 70-ish° of overlap. Do those figures sound familiar? The ramps sure look steep! I'm guessing that fairly-stout v/springs were/are required. Hydraulic or solid? http://forum.turboford.org/ubb/graemlins/dunno.gif

[MikeFleming]

I got it decades back, I think, from Nick Maranello (sp?). It's a hydraulic roller with some pretty aggressive ramps as Ray notes. I had it somewhat advanced during the dyno run above and expect to install it this time 6 degrees more on the late side. Variety. I'm using the massive springs that came with the Essy d-port head (after machning down the guide to allow for more lift - a long story that's mostly covered in the Red Baron Power thread).

In the graph above the yellow line is exactly 360 (aka TDC) and the blue line is where the split overlap came in with the cam sprocket set to zero. So to get to exactly straight up needed 11 [crank] degrees advancing.

This graph above is a very good example of why I always tell folks to use a dial indicator and measure where the cam actually is - then use the adjustable pulleys to get it where you want it. "Assuming" that if the sprocket is set to zero that the cam is straight up is not very accurate and absolutely cannot be replicated between engines or builds.

[TurboRay]

According to my limited research, Nick Mannarino (grin) of Modern Performance used to offer a few (two?) hydraulic roller cams for the 2.3T Lima engines. Merkurencyclopedia lists their "stage 1" at .505" lift, 221°/221° duration @ .050 and 110° lobe separation (LINK (http://www.merkurencyclopedia.com/Motor/camshaft.html)).


I have one of those MP stage-1 cams that I bought used from a TF member, but I haven't tried it yet. Perhaps you have a "stage 2"? http://forum.turboford.org/ubb/graemlins/dunno.gif

[MikeFleming]

I have one of those MP stage-1 cams that I bought used from a TF member, but I haven't tried it yet. Perhaps you have a "stage 2"? http://forum.turboford.org/ubb/graemlins/dunno.gif Perhaps. It's DEFINITELY not a 0.505" lift lobe. No IDing numbers or markings on it. I have pics of it in the Red Baron Power thread, iirc.

[brsvo]

Well I am finally making some progress this winter. I got a mill bit the right size and milled out the header tubes and made up standoffs. Need to go to my welder this week and get that finished. Then I can grind the manifold flat again and begin routing the oil and water lines for the new turbo. Went to work this morning and turned up a new OS wastegate. Ground the turbo outlet some for clearance. Milled out the strut mount holes to improve scrub radius
808480858086

[Raven855]

How big did you go on the flapper and hole?

[brsvo]

1.250" flapper, the hole is just over 1" but it is not centered to the flapper.

[svono50]

Nice work Bruce! That flapper plate shouldn't allow anything by, regardless of alignment to the hole. The standoffs look good too, allow much better access to the heads of the fasteners.

[brsvo]

So my header mods are done. I got the standoffs welded and machined the turbo flange flat. Then made up a fixture and bolted it to the flange so I could put it on the surface grinder at work. Ground the head mating surface flat and smooth with in .001" per port and .002 overall. That should seal

[brsvo]

Working on my front end. Del a lum bushings needed to be custom fit as the thrust washers were binding. Trimmed them down and they move now. Have to figure out what to do with the dust boots for my struts and I can bolt one side together.

[brsvo]

Turbo is on but the intake tubing isn't long enough anymore so more to buy. Bigger turbo but further from the air cleaner go figure.

[brsvo]

Been a while since I updated. Had the radiator fan go out in Tulsa. Not being able to get a replacement motor for a 90 Super Coupe fan I wound up with a Flex-a-lite fan. They mount with plastic pins through the radiator which I didn't like at all. The fan was tight against the radiator and the weight was on the aluminum radiator tubing. So I got busy this week and made some new mounts for the radiator and fan shroud. Now the weight is back on the mounts and the fan is 1/16" away from the radiator. How do you like them?

[Chalky]

very nice!!!

[Laredo]

Those look awesome Bruce!! ��

[brsvo]

Thanks the steel ones I had made in my garage worked but with the new fan and a new employer since I made those this was the perfect opportunity to Up-grade.

[Laredo]

Thanks the steel ones I had made in my garage worked but with the new fan and a new employer since I made those this was the perfect opportunity to Up-grade.

CNC or handmade...?

[brsvo]

Just free hand on the Bridgeport. My programming skills are about 3 generations behind the times.

[brsvo]

I bought a Lares rack and pinion from Rock Auto. Am going to install with new hoses and flushed pump. Is Valvoline synthetic Mercon LV ok for fluid? I have to fill the rebuilt T5 also and that is what I have been running in there.

[brsvo]

I purchased and installed a new Lares rack and pinion in my 86. I bought new lines and flushed the pump. Connected the hoses and pumped 2 tank fulls of fluid through the new rack. Buttoned it up, topped the fluid and turned the wheels lock to lock with the front end in the air like 20 times with the fuel rail disconnected cranking the starter. Topped off the fluid and started the car. Turned it lock to lock another 10 times with the wheels off the ground no whining or shudders. Put it on the ground and it shutters like mad. Turned it LTL another 20 times with the cap off the pump. Doesn't seem to be bubbles or fluid going down. Now I am just frustrated!!

[brsvo]

After far too many attempts, 1/8th tank of fuel on jack stands bleeding it finally works. What a relief. Has pretty good feel not totally over boosted!

[MikeFleming]

On, Wayne!