Oil Return Line Leak at Block Help

[BrianM]

Installing my exhaust it looks like I may have found the source of my oil leak. Looks like the oil return line from the turbo is leaking where it goes into the block or fitting at the block I can't tell for sure. The oil return line itself is clean but around where it goes into the block and under that area is wet.

Any instructions or tips and tricks on how to get this done. Looks like it is almost impossible to get to unless you have a mechanic fairy in your pocket. The V shaped bracket in front of it and turbo etc on top.

Is there a separate fitting that screws into the block that the oil line screws into or is this all one piece? What size and type of tool work down there? Is there a gasket on that end or is it just a pipe type fitting?

sorry for all of the questions but this job looks near impossible. The leak isn't horrible but I would sure like to get it all tightened up.

[MikeFleming]

The brass fitting into the block is a tapered pipe thread - the kind you keep tightening until it lines up properly. The other fitting is an inverted flare that seats (seals) against a SAE 45 degree flared tube fitting and a tube nut.

Most likely the tube nut fitting is not tight (easy fix). Also possible is the tube and fitting flare sections are not aligned properly or the SAE flare fittings are too crushed to seal (not so easy a fix).

You can reach the tube nut through the V-brace using a 7/8" crowfoot and a 3/8 x 4-6" extension and a small breaker bar (out towards the frame rail). There's more room for your hands & some tools if you remove the starter motor (when using a stock k-frame). You can also, very carefully, get to the tube nut behind the v-brace using an offset 7/8" open-end wrench. Just move it one flat at a time.

Note that you will always need two hands when using the crowfoot tool - one to hold the open-end crowfoot on the tube nut and the other to rotate/apply force to the breaker bar. You will have to reposition the crowfoot onto the nut every flat or so of rotation.

It's good practice.

I doubt that Ford still services the brass 45-degree block fitting. Somewhere we have the specs for it though and i can be sourced in some hardware stores or Graingers (you want the soft brass fitting, NOT SS). Replacing or re-flareing the oil drain tube is a bit more difficult. I've seen a couple vendor attempts at using AN fittings and braided hoses but nothing that I liked enough to actually use on any of my engines.

As usual clean the area and carefully verify where the oil is leaking. It usually flows downwards.

[BrianM]

Thanks for the great description. Do you get at this through the wheel well after removing the tire?

I hope the drain line has just worked a bit loose and a little tightening will fix me up. After a little better look I am pretty sure it is coming from the tube nut fitting.

[MikeFleming]

I get the front end up on jack stands enough to get myself completely under the car - the engine area. Getting the RF wheel/tyre out of the way helps a bunch too - then you can enter/exit from the side instead of just the front.

[Chalky]

They make jack stands that go that high:):):)

[MikeFleming]

They make jack stands that go that high:):):) I just put a pair of my favorite 4" pumps on top of the stands ...