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rasmith9
02-18-2013, 05:14 PM
I purchased an electrical relay from Pat several years back that increases the brightness of the headlights. I left it sitting in my garage while fixing up the car and am ready to install the harness and purchase some used/NOS headlights for my 86. I reached to Pat but he said he's swamped at the moment and suggested putting a pic and the "how to connect it" question out for help.

If anyone else has done this, please advise how it might be done. Thanks in advance, Bob

BTW, the connector on the Green wire is a two prong with two round holes.
3439

Patrick
02-18-2013, 06:47 PM
Headlight Relay Schematic, high beam and low beam. (colors may not match the wiring loom)

3450

Patrick
02-18-2013, 07:08 PM
Another:


3451

rasmith9
02-18-2013, 08:26 PM
OK, I feel like a complete idiot when approaching anything electrical.....can you tell me if this makes any sense at all, two scenarios one for each schematic:
First Schematic
1. red wires on the new loom - go to alternator/battery with 20amp fuse on each
2. white wire on new loom - goes to any good spot for a ground
3. green - ?
4. black - ?
Second Schematic:
1. green of new loom goes to each connection of the existing loom after I cut the green/black striped wire
2. red of new loom goes to each connection of the existing loom after I cut the red/black striped wire
3. white - goes to ground
4. orange (2 black wires that connect to an orange wire) on the new loom - goes to ???

Patrick
02-19-2013, 06:09 PM
The wires line up to the corresponding number on the poles of the relays.

Example 1:
#30 is 12 volt positive power source
#86 is high beam signal from original loom on example 1
#85 is ground on example 1
#87 on one relay goes to low beam lamps, and on the other relay #87 goes to high beams

Example 2:
#30 is 12 volt positive power source
#86 is ground to frame
#85 is high beam signal from original loom
#87 on one relay goes to low beam lamps, and on the other relay #87 goes to high beams

In either example, 85 and 86 complete the "signal" circuit. 87 and 30 carry the switched load to the headlamps.

blueboss
02-20-2013, 03:58 AM
1. White wires connected to the one smaller lug. Connect to a good fender apron ground.
2. Wire with the fuse holder. Connect to the battery side of the starter solenoid.
3. Find the two wires in your headlight circuit feeding the high/low beams and cut them close enough to the new harness to facilitate installation without having to lengthen the wires. Connect the two red wires with the spade terminals to the switch side of the wires you just cut. Doesn't matter which wire goes where right for now, just connect them.
4. Finally, connect the headlight side wires into the plug with the two green wires. Pay attention to the wire color coding in the original harness. Now is when you want to match the colors powering the specific relay. As an example: If the switch side wire going into "relay 1" is green, you want to connect the green headlight side wire into the same relay. If you reverse them, you'll have a weird combination of one light on, one off or high beams on when you should have low beams.

I would like to point out, ideally, these connections should be made with solder and heat shrink. But if you are unable to read a schematic, you're probably not handy with a soldering iron either. There are vendors who carry butt splices with built in solder rings and heat shrink. All you need is a heat gun. This is probably the second best option as it creates a high reliability, weatherproof connection. You can use normal butt splices with electrical tape but these are far from ideal. Moisture will get in and corrode the connection. And just like wearing women's clothing, just because you can do something, doesn't mean you should.

Good luck!

rasmith9
02-20-2013, 05:57 AM
Explanations appreciated - I have enough to move forward now - will use the soldering iron and heat shrink options on the cut wires.


1. White wires connected to the one smaller lug. Connect to a good fender apron ground.
2. Wire with the fuse holder. Connect to the battery side of the starter solenoid.
3. Find the two wires in your headlight circuit feeding the high/low beams and cut them close enough to the new harness to facilitate installation without having to lengthen the wires. Connect the two red wires with the spade terminals to the switch side of the wires you just cut. Doesn't matter which wire goes where right for now, just connect them.
4. Finally, connect the headlight side wires into the plug with the two green wires. Pay attention to the wire color coding in the original harness. Now is when you want to match the colors powering the specific relay. As an example: If the switch side wire going into "relay 1" is green, you want to connect the green headlight side wire into the same relay. If you reverse them, you'll have a weird combination of one light on, one off or high beams on when you should have low beams.

I would like to point out, ideally, these connections should be made with solder and heat shrink. But if you are unable to read a schematic, you're probably not handy with a soldering iron either. There are vendors who carry butt splices with built in solder rings and heat shrink. All you need is a heat gun. This is probably the second best option as it creates a high reliability, weatherproof connection. You can use normal butt splices with electrical tape but these are far from ideal. Moisture will get in and corrode the connection. And just like wearing women's clothing, just because you can do something, doesn't mean you should.

Good luck!