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View Full Version : Driving light wattage 100 vs. 55



Daytonatunnel
02-26-2013, 01:47 PM
Anyone try 100watt blulbs in place of the stock 55watt units ? I'm guessing some melted wires, but was surprised how beefy the factory wires are. So will they handle the hun's ???

Mike S
02-26-2013, 02:07 PM
If you use the relay setup as described here and on NATO, it should work fine. Using the 110W bulbs on the stock system will put to much heat through the light switch in the dash. It caused my lights to go out.

Patrick
02-26-2013, 02:21 PM
What Mike S said, with addition that the next reasonable mod or change would be the addition of a 3-G alternator. There is info on that in this forum as well.

caroth
02-26-2013, 03:01 PM
I am running the 100w bulbs in the fog lights. I built a new harness with relay and triggered by factory fog light wire. I have not had any problems with the bulbs. Be sure to align correctly so you don't blind people.

FYI, running the 100w bulbs will fry the fog lamp switch before it will damage the main light switch. Since the fog lamp switch is near impossible to find, it is best to rewire.

Forget about the 3G, go ahead and pick up a 6G alternator, smaller case and more output.

MikeFleming
02-26-2013, 03:53 PM
The relay only handles the +14VDC side - you will need to add 10 or 12 gauge wires to the ground side also.

All of the front lights - both side markers, turn signals, head lamp bulbs and fog/driving lamp bulbs are returned to ground on the corners of the radiator core support via a crimp connection and a single 16 gauge wire. TOTALLY inadequate.

blueboss
02-27-2013, 12:35 PM
Forget about the 3G, go ahead and pick up a 6G alternator, smaller case and more output.

Ok, you can't just throw that out there then turn and walk away. Any installation tips, schematics, pro's, con's, donor vehicles? :stick_poke:

Mike S
02-27-2013, 02:10 PM
Ok, you can't just throw that out there then turn and walk away. Any installation tips, schematics, pro's, con's, donor vehicles? :stick_poke:

It is a direct fit for the SVO with the exceptions of the bolt to the PS pump bracket. What i found out was that the hole in the housing is the exact diameter for a 7/16 fine thread bolt, so i tapped the housing. I also ground down the boss at the shaft outlet to allow a direct fit of the stock pulley. I will let Chris explain the electrical portion as he is more qualified than I when it comes to electrical.

caroth
02-27-2013, 04:21 PM
Ok, you can't just throw that out there then turn and walk away. Any installation tips, schematics, pro's, con's, donor vehicles? :stick_poke:

Sorry, I didn't think the 6G was new information. The 6G is found on the V6 mustangs. I found both of mine in a 1999 and 2000 Mustang. The wiring is very similar to the 3G

3G wiring (http://oldfuelinjection.com/public/alternator/3G-ALT_wiring.gif)
6G wiring (http://oldfuelinjection.com/public/alternator/6G-ALT_wiring_GRY.gif)

I am under driving my 6G with a bigger pulley and with the 100w headlights, 100w fog lights, cooling fan, HVAC fan all powered on, I still maintain 14.2V at an idle.

I will try and take pictures of the unit installed in the car and will post them up.

Daytonatunnel
02-28-2013, 02:32 PM
Thanks for the help guys, and all the added info. I didn't even know about the 6G...wow !!! The 100w bulbs will be added, with a dedicated power supply and ground.

caroth
03-31-2013, 09:15 AM
Just catching up on photos and posted the 6G install in my SVO. http://rothfam.com/svo/3g/ scroll to the bottom.

Raven855
03-31-2013, 12:32 PM
Just catching up on photos and posted the 6G install in my SVO. http://rothfam.com/svo/3g/ scroll to the bottom.

Nice update. Thanks!