JTurbo
04-22-2013, 05:26 PM
Problem is with my 86 SVO, it's mostly stock. Car has had a cold start problem for a while now. When it's below ~35°F ambient temp and I go to initially start the car, it will start but will barely idle for apx 1 or so minutes. If you try to rev the engine during this time, nothing happens (stays at ~1k RPMs). Once the car is warm (or the ambient is warmer than 35), the car starts normal and will rev properly. ECT? VAT? there are the only two sensors that I can think of that would affect cold starts....
Next problem - the car doesn't seem to have the proper amount of power (this from my butt-o-dynometer). It "feels" like the car is running lean / pulling timing. I have to keep the car in "premium" mode to get any sort of normal operation. Put it in regular mode and it runs like crap. This is the reason why I'm thinking the car is pulling timing. I'm guessing that in premium mode there is less timing to be pulled and the car seems to run normally.
If I drive like grandpa (don't rev past 2700 RPM) it drives basically normal. But if I try to get on it, the engine sort of falls flat. Also between shifts the car will "buck" initially then even out. Again, I envision the car going slightly lean during the up-shift period then once the PCM figures out that the engine is not lean, the power will even out and pull a bit normal.
New/recent tune up. New {stock} fuel pump back in the fall of 2010. New fuel filter last fall. I've got 39PSI at idle (with vac ref removed, 32 with the vacuum connected). I just ran it with the FP gauge visible through the front windshield and I'm getting adequate FP increase with boost. So I think the fuel system is functioning correctly. However, when I first connected the gauge and went to start the car, the pressure only went up to 20psi. Did key off and on again and it went up to 40ish PSI and held. Weird???
I also read that on the 86 there is a vacuum operated switch that affects the FP voltage. I tested mine and it seems to work properly, apply vacuum and the circuit opens. Not sure exactly how this affects the fuel pressure. However for haha's I am going to bypass this switch (so it's always closed).
So that leads me to why the car seems to fall flat. Could it be related to the knock sensor? Is there a procedure to {easily} test a KS?
I haven't ran codes on the car yet (got a genuine code reader on the way - tired of using the old test light method). Going to double check the base timing, I'll report back on that shortly.
Any thoughts or recommendations on where to look next?
JT
Next problem - the car doesn't seem to have the proper amount of power (this from my butt-o-dynometer). It "feels" like the car is running lean / pulling timing. I have to keep the car in "premium" mode to get any sort of normal operation. Put it in regular mode and it runs like crap. This is the reason why I'm thinking the car is pulling timing. I'm guessing that in premium mode there is less timing to be pulled and the car seems to run normally.
If I drive like grandpa (don't rev past 2700 RPM) it drives basically normal. But if I try to get on it, the engine sort of falls flat. Also between shifts the car will "buck" initially then even out. Again, I envision the car going slightly lean during the up-shift period then once the PCM figures out that the engine is not lean, the power will even out and pull a bit normal.
New/recent tune up. New {stock} fuel pump back in the fall of 2010. New fuel filter last fall. I've got 39PSI at idle (with vac ref removed, 32 with the vacuum connected). I just ran it with the FP gauge visible through the front windshield and I'm getting adequate FP increase with boost. So I think the fuel system is functioning correctly. However, when I first connected the gauge and went to start the car, the pressure only went up to 20psi. Did key off and on again and it went up to 40ish PSI and held. Weird???
I also read that on the 86 there is a vacuum operated switch that affects the FP voltage. I tested mine and it seems to work properly, apply vacuum and the circuit opens. Not sure exactly how this affects the fuel pressure. However for haha's I am going to bypass this switch (so it's always closed).
So that leads me to why the car seems to fall flat. Could it be related to the knock sensor? Is there a procedure to {easily} test a KS?
I haven't ran codes on the car yet (got a genuine code reader on the way - tired of using the old test light method). Going to double check the base timing, I'll report back on that shortly.
Any thoughts or recommendations on where to look next?
JT