Need help ASAP input shaft ground down and too large for pilot bearing

[stockman1]

424242434244Started to change out clutch and flywheel and this is what we found. The input shaft has been ground and is tapered and is too large to pilot bearing in SVO clutch kit? Anyone run into this? Any suggestions? Please help?

[MikeFleming]

Looks like that is a V-ate-sized gearbox (3.35 first gear?) and someone tried to fit it to the SVO pilot bearing. And did a very poor job. Does it have a bronze bushing in it now??

You will need to have that shaft properly ground down to the 4-cylinder pilot bearing size, or replace that gearbox with a real 4-cylinder one.

Cut that flywheel 0.010" (pull pins first) and see if most of the cracks go away. If not, replace it.

[stockman1]

Looks like that is a V-ate-sized gearbox (3.35 first gear?) and someone tried to fit it to the SVO pilot bearing. And did a very poor job. Does it have a bronze bushing in it now??

You will need to have that shaft properly ground down to the 4-cylinder pilot bearing size, or replace that gearbox with a real 4-cylinder one.

Cut that flywheel 0.010" (pull pins first) and see if most of the cracks go away. If not, replace it.

Flywheel is being replaced with new. Going to try to machine shaft without removal from trans to 0.59. Otherwise is it cheaper to buy a used trans than dissassemble and machine?

[Meotchh]

I would remove the shaft to machine it. If it can't be saved, just throw in a newly machined shaft & be done. Yes as Mike so kindly pointed out below, it must be a V8 shaft for that V8 box.


http://www.svocop.com/Articles/T-5_Manual.pdf (Page 18 starts on removal of the input shaft)

[MikeFleming]

Going to try to machine shaft without removal from trans to 0.59. Never heard of anyone doing that successfully and can't imagine how it could possible work.


Otherwise is it cheaper to buy a used trans than disassemble and machine? Taking the input shaft out is all of 15 minutes (after draining the fluid). BE SURE to catch all the roller beatings (they are loose), the input shaft shims (on the outside of the bearing in the input shaft snout thingie) and the roller thrust bearing. Save them somewhere for re-assembly. This does not require a complete disassembly of the gearbox as long as you don't drop [into the main case) any of the rollers.

Also set the main shaft end play on re-assembly (with shims).


If it can't be saved, just throw in a new shaft & be done. That won't solve the problem. The new shaft would still be too large of a diameter on the snout. A non-v-ate gearset input shaft will not work with a v-ate gearset. At least not for long.

I suspect you could find a WC 4-cyl box for a couple hundred dollars. Still probably more than getting your exisiting shaft machined.

[stockman1]

Plan is remove shaft without getting the shaft and machine. Let you know how it works out!

[MikeFleming]

Too much "shaft" in this thread!!

[Bob Holmes]

"Shut your mouth."

[in2fords]

lots of tranny shaft at that :runningdog:

[MikeFleming]

"Ya damn right!"

[Sick Puppy]

Shouldn't this be in the "porn" forum???:confused:

[MikeFleming]

Shouldn't this be in the "porn" forum???:confused: You just earned a ten second ban.

Let that be a lesson to you!

[Bob Holmes]

Mike, I think we just showed our age, and it went right by the rest of them. LOL

[MikeFleming]

Mike, I think we just showed our age, and it went right by the rest of them. LOL Then it was well-played?

[Patrick]

And that's why they call him.... " SHAFT "

[MikeFleming]

Stockman's gonna get a new handle!

[stockman1]

shaft ground to proper dia. No idea how this trans got in here? Should be back on the road today after many month resto.

[stockman1]

Stockman's gonna get a new handle! please Mike upgrade my membership and handle to SHAFT

[MikeFleming]

please Mike upgrade my membership and handle to SHAFT hehehe

[Chalky]

and cue classic wah-wah guitar line......

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DcLG3AfyVDI

[Meotchh]

I prefer the original myself...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Ehg2EaYhoJs

[stockman1]

4245
My 86 is back after a 6 month spa date.

[MikeFleming]

With The SHAFT and everything??

BTW - That's a VERY nice looking red.

[stockman1]

Shaft and all!

[stockman1]

I prefer the original myself...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Ehg2EaYhoJsi almost forgot how nice NYC was in the 70's thanks for the reminder

[stockman1]

With The SHAFT and everything??

BTW - That's a VERY nice looking red.Thanks I like red. BTW I have a few questions? My speedo is off reading 5-10 high. Since I am not up on this cars history, I do know that I got the Shaft (wrong size) and I have a warranty motor not sure if some one changed the rear end gear? I am pretty sure that this speedo is not calibrated with OBD? So is it a gear someplace? Also bad gas in tank 6mos old. Ran some seafoam thru the intake and Marvel mystery oil in tank and some fresh gas. Is it possible the tank is leaking? (I think that is highly unlikely) or just over flow? See it dripping out of plastic cover on bottom rear of tank.

[MikeFleming]

That's an awful lot of questions.

Speedo: The drive gear is on the output shaft on the gearbox and the driven gear is on the speedo cable end where it connects to the gearbox. Both are changeable, although changing the one inside the gearbox is a bit more involved. Both are ID'd by color. We have a chart off the main website page that shows which gears work with what tire and diff gears.

Bad petrol should be drained and donated to a nearby poopy. I hear you can just pour it through any open window. Opening closed windows is beyond the scope of this article but I've heard rocks work well.

There is no OBD on the SVO. The speedo is purely mechanical.

Yes, entirely possible that the fuel tank has a rusted-through leak. You should get that fixed ASAP. If it's not rusted through, the most likely leak points are the large donut seal on the filler tube on the right side, the vent valve and grommet at the top right, and the pressure out/fuel return lines and connectors at the top.

[stockman1]

thanks Mike!

[runamuk86]

Mine was doing the same thing(leaking seen on plastic cover) it was the seal for the filler neck. Only did it when full or going around corners where the gas would splash up on the passenger side of the tank. New seal and all is good.

[Bob Holmes]

Is that Canyon Red?

[stockman1]

Is that Canyon Red?yes sir!