EECIV code reader says?

[stockman1]

KOEO no problems code 11 KOER got codes 21,25,41,77 After engine warm up code 21 disappears and codes 25,41 &77 remain. Can someone decode the codes? thanks :eek:

[MikeFleming]

Link off main website:

http://www.svocop.com/Articles/7/index.html

25 KNOCK NOT SENSED IN TEST
Mostly informational. Kinda like you didn't experience a heart attack during the stress test (or didn't do the test properly - see 77 below)

41 SYSTEM ALWAYS LEAN
Generally what it says. Could also be that the O2 sensor is bad, shorted. Needs more testing.

77 OPERATOR DID NOT DO "GOOSE" TEST
You didn't do the KOER test properly. Typically accompanied by 73 and 76 (no change in TPS/VAF during goose test).

Repeat the KOER test. When it comes back to a normal idle and flashes 10 (or 1 depending on the tester), ST0MP the throttle to the metal *immediately*. Keep it there until it reaches at least 3500 RPM (no need to go higher), then jump completelyoff the throttle. Iirc you have about ten seconds to complete the "Goose" test. ALWAYS do the Goose stomp from the drivers seat with one hand on the ignition just in case it sticks so y'alls can shut it down. NEVER do it from underhood.

Then let the test complete.

[stockman1]

Link off main website:

http://www.svocop.com/Articles/7/index.html

25 KNOCK NOT SENSED IN TEST
Mostly informational. Kinda like you didn't experience a heart attack during the stress test (or didn't do the test properly - see 77 below)

41 SYSTEM ALWAYS LEAN
Generally what it says. Could also be that the O2 sensor is bad, shorted. Needs more testing.

77 OPERATOR DID NOT DO "GOOSE" TEST
You didn't do the KOER test properly. Typically accompanied by 73 and 76 (no change in TPS/VAF during goose test).

Repeat the KOER test. When it comes back to a normal idle and flashes 10 (or 1 depending on the tester), ST0MP the throttle to the metal *immediately*. Keep it there until it reaches at least 3500 RPM (no need to go higher), then jump off completely the throttle. Iirc yo uhave about ten seconds to complete the "Goose" test. ALWAYS do the Goose stomp from the drivers seat with one hand on the ignition just in case it sticks sose y'alls can shut it down. NEVER do it from underhood.

Then let the test complete.The code 25 was confusing thanks for clarity! I was about to buy a knock sensor. Code 41, what kind of drivability issues might one notice with that code if any?

[MikeFleming]

Code 41, what kind of drivability issues might one notice with that code if any? Totally depends. If it's a real code, then lean hesitations, higher EGTs, lower power levels, more pinging, etc. Things associated with lean conditions.

That's why you should further test the O2 sensor system first. if it's OK, then verify fuel pressure, flow, injector flow and spray pattern, intake side air leaks, etc. All the things that can cause lean conditions.

[stockman1]

Totally depends. If it's a real code, then lean hesitations, higher EGTs, lower power levels, more pinging, etc. Things associated with lean conditions.

That's why you should further test the O2 sensor system first. if it's OK, then verify fuel pressure, flow, injector flow and spray pattern, intake side air leaks, etc. All the things that can cause lean conditions.have all of those symptoms along with rough accel below 3000 RPM. Also I know I'm a spaz however I cant get the WOT test to work after several attempts. Is it me or is that an issue with something else?

[stockman1]

Totally depends. If it's a real code, then lean hesitations, higher EGTs, lower power levels, more pinging, etc. Things associated with lean conditions.

That's why you should further test the O2 sensor system first. if it's OK, then verify fuel pressure, flow, injector flow and spray pattern, intake side air leaks, etc. All the things that can cause lean conditions.bought a Bosch single wire O2 sensor spliced in the Ford modular plug and about 90% of the drivability issues are gone! Hard to get the o2 sensor out (was orig issue) but worth the effort. Need to rerun the code test for KOER at first light.

[stockman1]

After replacing the O2 sensor, I attempted to check the base timing. 2 problems, car wont run warm with spout disconnected, second I cant locate the distr. hold down bolt?? Moved on to rerunning eec-iv test KOER. Code 41 is gone, code 25 and 77 still present? Cant pass WOT test no matter how I try?? So I ran timing check with code reader and advance timing is 30 to 33 degrees BTDC as the book suggests. The mark is however bouncing around and not steady. Questions: Are we sure CODE 25 doesn't mean bad knock sensor? Second any ideas why my car wont run without spout connected? Thanks in advance for all the help!!

[MikeFleming]

... second I cant locate the distributor hold down bolt??
It's on the block side, hidden under the bend of the lower PCV hose directly below the PCV valve. 17mm hex head. I use a LONG 3/8 extension from above and a short, swivel 17mm socket. Sight it through the opening under the alternator and power steering pump brackets.
4297
4298
4299
4300



So I ran timing check with code reader and advance timing is 30 to 33 degrees BTDC as the book suggests. What EEC are you running? For the 84/85 EECs you can set it, closed throttle, to 25 BTDC. Then make sure it advances at least another 15 degrees when at 2500 RPM. For the PE (85.5/86) or LA-series, set to 30 with SPOUT connected.

You still need to verify that SPOUT is advancing correctly. it should add between 15 and 20 degrees between disconnected/connected.


The mark is however bouncing around and not steady. If that's the case, have a look at timing belt slop and the conditions of the aux shaft and distributor gears. Should not bounce arond more than 2 crank degrees.


Questions: Are we sure CODE 25 doesn't mean bad knock sensor? Code 25 specifically means that no knock was sensed during the test. That could be because the KS is defective, the KS circuit is damaged (EEC or wiring), there is no knock happening in the engine (too cold?), etc.

What EEC? With the TE you can gently, repeatedly tap in the rear of the upper intake manifold with a 4 oz hammer and see timing retard. That's a valid test of the EEC and sensor wiring system


Second any ideas why my car won't run without spout connected? Thanks in advance for all the help!! Obviously something's not right. What is the timing with and without the SPOUT connected? You can also try raising the idle speed before pulling the SPOUT.

Did you do check timing timing during the KOER?

You have exceeded your allotted number of questions for the day. Don't make Mitch ban you (or Bitch Man you if you're dyslexic).

[stockman1]

Obviously something's not right. What is the timing with and without the SPOUT connected? Tried raising idle then pull spout engine dies right away? Spout is only modular 3 wire connector attached to the distributor correct? If it only advances the timing not sure why wont run unless base timing too low? Car is 86 assuming the computer is 86 too? Tester is Equus code reader, ran KOER test then idle test, timing mark bouncing from 30 to 33 via calibrated eyeball. have not inspected the timing belt as of yet. Also read that no spark with spout off means bad TFI?

[MikeFleming]

Early in-line (84+) SPOUT
4304

and later (86) Fuse-link SPOUT connectors.

4305
4306

Both are only two wires, in yellow and/or yellow/green.

[stockman1]

Early in-line (84+) SPOUT
4304
This one in my car


Both are only two wires, in yellow and/or yellow/green.mike once again you saved the day! Interesting my connector and spout on my 86 looks like the top pic where you caption 84 inline. At any rate pulled the correct plug and base time is dead on at 10. So it's on to fuel system next.

[MikeFleming]

So ... wait ... it's running again??

What were you disconnecting that made it die??

[stockman1]

So ... wait ... it's running again??

What were you disconnecting that made it die??The whole TFI plug (multi-wire connector into distributor), duh. I told you I would need hand holding. ;)

[stockman1]

4297
4298
4299
4300


Mike that is one really clean motor! I can only aspire towards that.............

[Patrick]

Mike that is one really clean motor! I can only aspire towards that.............
You are banned until your next post for encouraging Mike Fleming. Actually, maybe two posts!

[stockman1]

You are banned until your next post for encouraging Mike Fleming. Actually, maybe two posts!Ha while your at it change my handle to SHAFT

[Patrick]

Ha while your at it change my handle to SHAFT Been there, done that! Buy low, sell high.

[MikeFleming]

How about change to "The SHAFT"??

[in2fords]

Shafty :)

[stockman1]

Been there, done that! Buy low, sell high.now your all making fun of my occupation. :stick_poke: