Creation of the Red Baron - Phase 4: Power [Archive]

MikeFleming

06-16-2013, 05:43 PM

In this thread I will attempt to document the design, fitment and build-up of the power plant in the red car. With some pics and details of planning, collecting assorted parts, machining, fitting and assembly along the way. These pics and details are not necessarily in time order, so things may appear out of order. I'm sure most of y'alls can deal with that.

Original plan:
- 325-350 WHP
- Pump petrol (which means 91 ACN octane petrol)
- 7500 MAX RPM
- 2.3L Turbo sized clutch
- T5 gearbox

Some engine inspection pics after coming back from block machining. Started with an 86 SVO block and bored it to hold 3.810" (+.030") forged pistons from Race Engineering, bushed full-floating Crower rods at 5.5" CtC with a .927" pin size, and a thin moly faced top ring (0.047"), 0.047" second ring and a 3-piece PC-style oil control ring set.
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The bottom end is studded and strapped with an RE lightened 2.5L crank. Since the crank is a small journal and the block is a large journal design, spacers are required to fit the crank main bearings. These spacers must be align-bored as a set after the main caps are machined for the straps.

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Note machined (lightened) counterweights and balanced crankshaft. Pic of stock 2.5L crank is shown in Post 3 below.

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MikeFleming

06-16-2013, 06:02 PM

One of the 2.3-2.5L main bearing spacer shell after align boring.
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Test fitment of rotating assembly, rods, & pistons.
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After all the assorted inspections were done (bearing clearance checks, piston-to-wall checks, deck height for each rod/piston combination, cc'ing everything, ring fitting, all gasket surfaces lapped, all thread holes chased, etc.) it's time to clean and paint.
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Lapping plate and compound on head gasket surface.
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Washing/scrubbing. Lather, rinse, repeat - scrubbing each and every oil passage.
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Assorted cleaning implements. 43834384

Dry. Note all previous paint was removed so surface rust will show up almost immediately.
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Bag to dry over night.
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Mask and paint outside of block.
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MikeFleming

06-16-2013, 06:11 PM

Mask and paint inside of engine.
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Cleaning/prepping of assorted engine parts. Running a bottoming tap (12x1.0mm) in the flywheel bolt mounting holes and polishing the rear main seal surface.
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Lightened 2.5L crank.

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Stock 2.5 crank.

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SVOC

06-16-2013, 06:34 PM

Very nice ;)

MikeFleming

06-20-2013, 04:19 PM

I started with a new (as in newly released) Esslinger D-Port aluminum head. I was told by Esslinger it flowed better - as cast, out of the box - than any iron head they had ported. I was also told it would be specially custom machined to work with the cam specs I intended to use - which was a 0.575" valve lift roller profile. Needless to say what I received was not at all what I was expecting. Sure it was aluminum, but the chamber and seat machining were extremely rough, the retainers contacted the stem seals at 0.450" (which means it wouldn't even be right for a stock lift cam), the casting material is extremely soft (can easily mark it with a fingernail and it's full of bubbles), and the flow numbers were disappointing - lower than the mildly-ported iron head I was replacing (not to mention that we couldn't measure to 0.600" lift because it wasn't properly machined).

In any case my machinist talked me into fixing it locally (for a fee!) rather than sending it back to Esslinger (for either repair or a complete refund!) so here's some "as-received" pics.

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Yes, those are monstrous dual springs.

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Some chamber and port close-ups, without valves.
]
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MikeFleming

06-20-2013, 04:24 PM

If you have lots of extra cash and time and are willing to take what Esslinger delivers to a qualified machinist and porter to have it "fixed", then go ahead and get one. The ports need work - the exhausts aren't round, straight or large enough; the valve seats are very rough with lots of sharp edges, the steps into the chamber surface are really bad and the steps in/out of the ports are very rough, with sharp angles; the guide ends in the ports are rough castings and not centered in the airflow path.

This is the only one I've personally seen and touched. However the castings are the same for all of them (95% of the ports are as-cast) and the chambers, valve pockets, seat inserts, etc. are all CNC machined so - except for minor tool wear when cutting soft aluminum - all should be exactly the same.

So I *expect* it's typical but I don't have hard evidence to support that. Unless they've made some design changes from "customer feedback".

Pics after Jeff worked it over.

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MikeFleming

06-20-2013, 04:38 PM

Pics after machining, cleaning.

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Notice what looks like a dusting of white powder? That's the bubble holes in the casting.

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More white specs.

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Intake side has nut-serts installed for the 8x1.25mm holes. No nut-serts anywhere else.

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Time for paint.

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MikeFleming

06-20-2013, 04:56 PM

Another minor issue I was not informed about. All of the intake and exhaust bolt threads are the same metric size as a stock iron head. The oil galley plugs are 1/4 pipe same as an iron head. But the cam cover bolt holes are 1/4-20 (versus the iron head size of 6x1mm)???

So I have to source different bolts for that. Here's what I obtained from ARP, in shiny SS. And, No, that's not the cam cover going into this build. We will cover that one later.

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Head assembly. Iinstall the Allen head screws into the tops of the cam towers with a bit of teflon tape.

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Install a valve, seat, seal (with condom to keep from tearing the inside seal area), then the spring/retainer set.

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Finished valve/seal/spring/retainer/keeper set install. Seven more to go.

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Some light springs for mapping the cam lobes and checking piston-to-valve clearance.

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Front seal. Note two threaded holes for button head screws to retain the seal body.

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I'll leave this here - out of order, naturally. Measuring the #4 main bearing size with a 3-point bore gauge. More better, more accurate, & more expensive.

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dagenham

06-20-2013, 06:33 PM

Mike, aren't you worried about all of those little bubbles??? That seems a little strange to me.
Also, I thought you were not supposed to paint aluminum heads?? At least that is what I was always told.

MikeFleming

06-20-2013, 07:00 PM

Mike, aren't you worried about all of those little bubbles??? That seems a little strange to me. Yep. it's a very sh1tty casting for sure. Overall I'm very disappointed with the lack of quality of the Esslinger aluminum head and do not recommend them - only game in town or not.

Also, I thought you were not supposed to paint aluminum heads?? I can't think of any reason to not paint it. It's not like it gets air cooled on the outside surfaces.

MikeFleming

06-20-2013, 07:06 PM

Assembly of main bearings, caps, traps, studs, etc. for measuring bearing bore sizes.

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Implements of measure.

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MikeFleming

06-20-2013, 07:23 PM

Measuring head chamber volume (with valves and spark plug installed). 59.6cc.

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And piston volume. -14.5cc.

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Measuring crank end play. Target 0.003-0.006", actual 0.0045".

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Always check the ring to piston groove before filing them. If it's tight in the goove, don't use it.

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Fitting rings to the bores. End gap target for top two rings = 0.015-0.017", oil ring scrapers are set to 0.030". I bought this Childs & Albert ring grinder about 35 years. Been a good friend throughout the decades. Could be that I don't have many friends.

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MikeFleming

06-20-2013, 07:26 PM

Assembling the crank, bearings, caps, studs, straps, etc. into the block. Yes, it spins freely by hand.

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< nap time - much more later >

SVOC

06-21-2013, 04:01 AM

:fi_av_smiles_y_42::like4r:

JTurbo

06-21-2013, 05:56 AM

Very nice! Keep 'em coming Mike!

Bob Holmes

06-21-2013, 08:25 AM

All this for a trailer queen...:p (how about your engine in my racecar, then we'd be sure to beat that pesky Vince Rinner!)

Great job Mike, your work is detailed and careful.

The Esslinger head is unfortunate. Pushing out work that bad is not a great business move. Clearly running their tooling to fast, and the casting itself is not high quality. Did you experience any of the sinking head nut issues that have been reported?

MikeFleming

06-21-2013, 09:34 AM

All this for a trailer queen...:p (how about your engine in my racecar, then we'd be sure to beat that pesky Vince Rinner!) That would put you over the 300HP/Ft-Lb limit. Or is there a special Grudge Match rule set for this special race event?

Great job Mike, your work is detailed and careful. Gosh. Thanks!

Did you experience any of the sinking head nut issues that have been reported? Indeed - everyone has. I have pics of the initial damage and a semi-solution coming later. It was virtually impossible to keep head stud clamping torque on this head as delivered. Every few heat cycles it needed to be re-tightened. Ten heat cycles and half of the studs were down below 45 Ft-Lb from an initial 105. Definitely not a product for a street car although it's kinda OK for a high-maintenace race car or trailer queen (in red shoes!) if you're not afraid of high-maintenance engines (or women). The most common failure form is compression/combustion gasses getting into the coolant when the head lifts - since all those coolant passages surround each cylinder.

The semi-solution we implemented made it more stable, but the material is still very soft and continues to crush. I cannot recommend this piece for a street car.

Grrr...

The interesting part is that I've worked with aluminum heads on automotive and motorcycle street and race engines for over 40 years and have NEVER seen a head bolt washer area sink like this in any other application. I would be totally embarrassed to release a product like this one.

MikeFleming

06-21-2013, 07:49 PM

The machined shafts in the head where the bolts/studs go through collapse and crush in under the combined load of having the head bolted down and heat cycling. How much it collapses just due to tightening the bolts is not known. Some pics of the damage. Note that some of the shaft walls were collapsed onto the studs - had to literally use a puller to extract them.

Some sample pics of sunken holes. You can see how the soft aluminum material crushes down and curls into the bolt holes.
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Head disassembled & ready for machining.
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Have to use an 8" plus length cutter with a centering adapter to stay in the hole to clear the cam towers.
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A finished stepped hole.
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Time to flatten the head gasket surface
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Lather, scrub, rinse, repeat.
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MikeFleming

06-21-2013, 07:59 PM

Hardened ARP stepped washer insert.
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Machined step hole and washer in hole.
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A curious side track here. With a shortened deck (milled) head and/or block, it's necessary to check that the alignment dowels are short enough to work together with the head and block. Remember the purpose of these dowels is to maintain perfect alignment between the head and block, while holding the head gasket in alignment during assembly.

A stock and a shortened head alignment dowel. I shortened these to allow the head to be bolted down to the block - otherwise the dowels would have held up the exhaust side up by about 0.20".
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JTurbo

06-23-2013, 08:40 AM

I'd be afraid to run that head....

MikeFleming

06-23-2013, 09:58 AM

I'd be afraid to run that head.... Fortunately the gremlins only come out at night!

MikeFleming

06-29-2013, 04:54 PM

Oil pump time. Used a Melling pump. Disassemble, check edges and clearances, adjust as needed. Deck all the surfaces, blast (walnut shells) to clean, wash, rinse, re-assemble.

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Check fitment of the oil pick-up tube. Desired bottom of pickup to pan clearance printed in the Tech section of the Esslinger catalog for reference, found here: http://www.esslingeracing.com/catalog/tech-section.pdf:

"Oil pick-up should be 1/8" to 3/16" from the bottom of the pan to the bottom of the oil sump".

This requires some measuring and adjusting. In my particular situation for this engine I needed to relocate the support strap that fits onto the #4 main cap stud as its height changes when using main cap straps.

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Measuring the distance from the block pan gasket surface to the bottom of the pick-up tube thingie.
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Measuring from gasket surface to bottom of pan. Be sure to add compressed thickness of the gasket being used (4-piece cork in this application).

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Once we know how much to relocate the pickup bottom, we can work on getting the support brace to fit onto the stud. Cut off old brace, bend it to work, mark new location, glue in place.

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Used a flexible silicon-brass filler.

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MikeFleming

06-29-2013, 04:58 PM

ARP main studs, straps, washers,12-point nuts and installation/removal tool.

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Oil galley plugs installed. New Ford parts with Vibra-Tite on them.

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Pics of painted oil sump (aka oil pan).

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SVOC

06-29-2013, 05:53 PM

:eek: Oh my!

MikeFleming

06-29-2013, 07:45 PM

:eek: Oh my! Lions and Tigers and Bears??

MikeFleming

06-29-2013, 08:08 PM

More parts prepping. Here's the front crank pulley in 3-groove. After powder coating. BTW I do not recommend PCing v-belt pulleys for a high-speed engine as there is VERY little friction for the belts to grab. In any case here is the timing TDC notch marked with some white touch-up paint to make it easily visible.

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Other end of crank: Mounting flywheel with new ARP bolts & some 262 Red Loctite. Note the crank bolt hole threads are 12mm x 1.0mm and you'll want a bottoming tap to clean those holes.

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Lastly always check run-out after mounting the flywheel to the crank (much easier with the engine on a stand) just to make sure it's running flat. If it's off by more than 0.002", dismount, clean the mounting surfaces again, remount, re-torque, re-test. If still off, surface or replace the flywheel.

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Assemble the pistons to the rods. New word: SpiroLoc. These pistons use a triple lap SpiroLoc. Installation takes some practice while removal takes a special tool to unwind them out of the groove. You can never have too many spares locs. Also be sure to check the total end play of the piston pin inside the piston with both locs in place. MAX of 0.006", prefer 0.003".

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One side installed.

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Add piston pin and rod - be sure to get the rod orientation correct!

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Second SpiroLoc with pin installed. Time for rings.

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MikeFleming

06-29-2013, 08:47 PM

These pistons have the pin bore intersecting a portion of the oil ring land area - the result of a longer rod and longer stroke which requires the use of a shorter height piston (without a tall deck block). The bottom of the oil ring groove uses a thick hard steel bottom spacer support ring and it goes in first. Note that almost all rings have some mark to indicate the up direction while these bottom groove supports have a dimple on the bottom - that goes in the ring groove void to keep them from rotating.

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Standard three-piece PC-style oil ring with a wavy expander and two thin steel wipers with hard-chromed edges.

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Note the wavy expander has little steps on the top and bottom to hold the chrome rails out against the cylinder walls. Be sure to get the chrome rails to mount on the steps properly.

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Finished ring package installed onto piston.

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Rod/piston installation into block. Magic thread and bearing lube.

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Clean rod bolts. Note the reduced diameter shank, the large radius reliefs, rolled threads and 12-point, washered-face heads. These 3/8x24 bolts go to 50 Ft-Lbs with lube.

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Rods use dowels to maintain rod-to-cap alignment.

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Note the already work-hardened (& smooth) bearing surface where the washered head on the rod bolt mates to. These surfaces must be fully torqued together at least five times before final assembly if you have a new rod or fastener. If not, proper torque cannot be achieved.

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Lube everything.

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MikeFleming

06-29-2013, 09:10 PM

Piston and rod install from the crankshaft side.

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Short block assemblies. Posi-Drive head driver (similar to a #3 Phillips bit) to install the screws (6x1.0mm) that mount the auxiliary shaft thrust plate. These screws have a captive, star lock washer on them - same screws and thrust plate as used on the camshaft.

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Fuel pump cover plate and gasket. From the old days.

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Auxiliary shaft and front crank seal holders installed.

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Assemble pick-up tube to oil pump. There is not clearance to tighten these bolts with the pump on the block.

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Oil pump mounts here - and does not use a gasket.

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DO NOT forget the hex drive shaft. BTW - it's an 8mm hex (5/16"). it should install from the bottom and have a stop ring installed to prevent it from being pulled out when R&Ring the distributor.

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12-point bolts to mount the oil pump to the block.

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Some Loctite 262 for the pick-up tube support jamb nut.

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Bottom end ready to button up.

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Sump bolts fresh from the blast cabinet.

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Sump that was previously painted and stored.

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MikeFleming

06-30-2013, 02:11 PM

Pan installation. Note the hex extension on the front crank snout for the degree wheel and the crank timing reference marks on the flywheel.. The crank belt sprocket is installed also.

A little dab of silicone to help seal the hump sections of the 4-piece sump gasket.

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Degree wheel installed on front of crank snout. Now we know exactly where TDC is for all cylinders. Make reference marks on the flywheel - so we cab find exact TDC again after the head is installed.

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The head gasket I'm using. Cometic MLS in 3.830" bore at 0.045" compressed thickness.

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stott

07-30-2013, 02:36 PM

can't believe the essy heads are that junky.

shame.

MikeFleming

07-30-2013, 04:32 PM

can't believe the essy heads are that junky. They're in total denial whenever I ask them about it. And it's not like I'm the only person that has these issues.

SVOC

07-31-2013, 03:44 AM

Looking great Mike! :)

MikeFleming

07-31-2013, 07:41 AM

I need to get back to this thread!

So much stuff to post, so little time.

brsvo

09-29-2013, 06:54 PM

Mike how did you do the external waste gate on your Rods header? Plumbing ect?

MikeFleming

09-30-2013, 06:24 AM

No external wastegate -using the internal dump valve as standard on the T3. The dump hole is a bit bigger though.

brsvo

09-30-2013, 09:38 AM

I'm still running the stock waste gate and the boost spikes to 19.5 then drops to 16. I would like it to go and stay at 18. Does the enlarged hole make this possible? Also what did you end up with for HP?

FoxBuddy

09-30-2013, 01:10 PM

Mask and paint inside of engine.
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My naive self has never seen this done before. Using a thermal paint; is that for more uniform heat conduction? Less chance of a hot spot? Inquiring minds want to know!

I just started reading your thread here Mike and so far quite interesting. I look forward to learning more about these blocks, engines and cars.

I need to get back to this thread! So much stuff to post, so little time.

I hear you! My build thread for my '82 on FEP was always around 1-2 months behind. I have had the car on the road for a month and the posts don't reflect it.

I appreciate the detail you are going to in this thread so keep it up!

MikeFleming

09-30-2013, 02:40 PM

Using a thermal paint; is that for more uniform heat conduction? Less chance of a hot spot? Inquiring minds want to know! The paint was originally used, many decades ago, to keep the sand from coming out of the castings and to provide a smooth surface for oil to drip off of more easily. Not for any special thermal insulation properties - just capable of handing internal engine temps and oil/fluid impervious.

And it's red. With a hint of orange.

... always around 1-2 months behind. I have had the car on the road for a month and the posts don't reflect it. A month? Excuse me? That'd be almost real-time.

This car was [mostly] finished seven years ago. I think I'm gonna win the "behind a bit" contest.

Ford Builder

10-01-2013, 02:54 AM

GET ERRRR DONE Mike

MikeFleming

10-01-2013, 09:30 AM

Remind me in November. Plate is full just now.

Ford Builder

10-01-2013, 01:39 PM

You're kidding?

MikeFleming

10-01-2013, 03:55 PM

Nope - next three months are prime track season around here. Then we have our week or two of cold and a bit of rain, then more track season.

MikeFleming

12-04-2013, 05:21 PM

Well, this is close to November, Yes?

OK then. Let's continue with the engine assembly and fitting of stuff. Next up is the cylinder head assembly, then cam and valve clearances, lift profiles, etc.

Cleaned head gasket surface of assembled short block (pan installed).
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Note oiled, lapped surface. Cometic specs a VERY smooth, flat gasket surface.
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Cometic standard bore MLS gasket with cleaned, bagged head in background.
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Cometic head gasket placed on block. Note shortened block-to-head dowel pins! Also note flywheel paint markings of TDC, & BDC & 30 before and after. A reference check, if needed, after the degree wheel is removed.
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Crank snout extension and degree wheel/pointer installed after TDC was defined.
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Light valve springs for checking valve-to-piston clearance and checking cam timing. Note the massively-huge lifter bosses that are cast to the cam towers. Aluminum flexes a LOT more than iron and the extra material is critical with heavy valve springs.
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The actual valve springs. A dual spring setup from Esslinger than comes standard in their aluminum D-port head.
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Kidney-shaped chamber with the larger valves (standard size for the d-port aluminum unit) at 1.89"/1.59" using standard 11/32" stems.
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Those threaded things that keep the head from coming away from the block. Appropriate lube (oil on the coarse threads in the block, hand-tight, and the moly lube for the washers, nuts and fine thread ends of the studs. The studs come out and get re-installed each time the head comes off and goes on. The bolt and hex shank (between the combo wrenches) is the tool I use to install and remove the studs. 17mm hex, btw.
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Note the front lower recess for the stud. That hole also intersects with the cam belt tensioner spring rest post and the rest post bolt needs to be removed to loosen/tighten that front intake side stud. IMHO that's a very poor design. You can see the threaded hole a bit going towards the front of the first cam tower.
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Studs installed hand-tight (like 20-40 In-Lbs) into the block. The small hole on the side of the cam tower a couple inches above the cam cover gasket surface is the oil drain from the front cam bearing behind the front cam oil seal. Always make sure that hole is clear unless you happen to like oil messes.
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Copious amount of thread lube.
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Hard washer, then nut. 14mm 12-point.
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Tighten those things. This is the first compression cycle on this Cometic gasket. I 3-stepped them to 75 Ft-Lbs. Note I'm only using this gasket to get the proper head-to-block clearance (later measured at ~0.044") for setting/checking the cam timing and valve-to-piston clearances. The head has to come off again anyway to fit the proper valve springs when a fresh gasket will be installed and tightened.
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MikeFleming

12-04-2013, 05:49 PM

Time to install the cam belt with associated sprockets, tensioners, shields and stuff. This should all be pretty self-explanatory.

Esslinger adjustable cam sprocket. All round tooth stuff.
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Rear belt cover installed. Note the bolt hole just an inch away from the cam sprocket outer, at about 5 O'Clock just to the right of the timing pointer marks, where the belt cover has a U shape hole. That is the threaded hole that interferes with the front intake head stud area as mentioned previously.
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Race Engineering auxiliary sprocket installed.
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Belt, tensioner, spring, etc. installed and set.
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Magnetic base on the iron block with the indicator on an intake valve retainer to measure valve movement with light valve springs installed on #1.
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Rocker arm installed, indicator zero'd with valve completely closed. Not shown is a threaded, adjustable lifter used to set the lash (clearance between the rocker roller and the cam base circle) to zero. A wee bit of white grease on the lobes. Only the cylinder #1 intake rocker is installed at this time.
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The dial indicator shaft needs to be parallel to the valve movement for accurate readings. Better shot of the height adjustable lifter (test lash adjuster).
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Measure valve lift at 5 crank degree (or 10 degrees if you're lazy) movements and write them down. Plot in Excel to see where the valves open/close in relationship to crankshaft movement, and how much the valves open. Check retainer to guide clearances too. Look for clearance issues with the rocker and the cam lobe, the retainer, etc. throughout the whole lift range
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Here's the lift plot. The yellow vertical line shows the 360 crank degrees point, or TDC overlap. The Blue vertical line shows the split-overlap point of the intake and exhaust lobes (actually valve movement, which is slightly different from lobe position)- where both valves are open the same amount. The split overlap point comes out to 371 crank degrees, with the valves opening after that TDC, what we call "late" or "retarded". To set the cam "straight-up", the cam needs to be advanced 5.5 cam degrees (the lobes shifted to the left in the diagram). Remember that cam degrees are half of crank degrees. And we ALWAYS reference everything in crank degrees.
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So the setting on the adjustable cam sprocket needs to be rotated to 5.5 degrees more advanced than it is now. Then the ZERO mark can then be established on the sprocket inner and outer pieces for future reference.

MikeFleming

12-04-2013, 05:58 PM

Some out of order detail pics for reference.
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The Esslinger aluminum head uses two screws to retain the front cam seal.
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Full system oil pressure runs down the center of the cam so a sealant (I prefer teflon tape) is required. Note with new cam installations be sure to verify there is a 1/4" pipe plug installed at the back of the cam. While it won't leak oil outside the engine if missing, it will not allow the engine to build any oil pressure and usually results in tears for new bearings by the time the issue is discovered.
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19mm hex goes to 60 Ft-Lbs. Easier to tighten it after the cam, belt is installed and tightened.
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THAT is the problem bolt that interferes with the front intake side head bolt recess.
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17mm hex to 30 Ft-Lbs in the auxiliary shaft. No oil comes through there so no sealant is needed.
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rodster

12-04-2013, 07:18 PM

Great stuff! :like3:

So that is what my engine should look like under all of the gunk. :(

Ford Builder

12-04-2013, 07:25 PM

Looking good Mike, so when do we get to see you fire the beast ?

MikeFleming

12-04-2013, 07:49 PM

Once the cam positioning is set and all the piston-to-valve clearances are checked (always more than 0.080"), it's time to install the lash adjusters without the springs and set the collapsed adjuster lash adjustment between the rollers and the cam lobes. I annotated (in red) the total required shim values for each lash adjuster hole.

Disassemble all the lash adjusters and pull the springs out. These just happened to be new units so there was minimal oil mess.
5810
5809

Reassemble each springless lash adjuster and put it into a lifter hole. From here on out, lash adjusters and rocker arms are permanently assigned to a particular spot and will not be moved around.
5811

Note the problem front tensioner post bolt that protrudes into the head bolt recess. Grrr ... This lash adjuster needs 0.066" of shim to raise it for proper cam lobe clearance.
5812
5815

Valve stem as is.
5816

Lash cap installed. This cap is from Race Engineering and increases the valve stem length by 0.150". Necessary in this installation to get the valve lift correct. It slides over the valve stem end and is retained in-between the rocker arm edges on the top side. The large valve springs keep it all together. With the Esslinger 2277 cam installed, the lift came out correct with no lash caps.
5817

The lash adjuster springs have been re-installed after shimming, with all rockers in place. In these pic the intake manifold lower, injectors and fuel rail/FPR are installed.
5818

This head uses 14mm x 19mm washer seat spark plugs. ( Pay no attention to the exhaust ports behind the invisible curtain. )
5819
5820

Moly assembly lube smeared on the lobes, rollers, valve tips and lash caps, etc.
5821

MikeFleming

12-04-2013, 08:01 PM

More detail pics of some things already covered.

RE Cam Belt Tensioner.
5823
5824

RE 0.150" Lash caps.
5825

Stem no cap.
5826

With lash cap installed.
5827

With rocker installed.
5828

"Short" outer timing cover.
5829

Front crank pulley installed, still keeping the timing gear extension installed. Verifying TDC on the pulley with white paint to help find the mark.
5830

Lower intake manifold.
5831
5832

Note proper (PE) location for knock sensor.
5833
5836

Knock sensor before installation.
5837

rodster

12-04-2013, 10:33 PM

Hey.. I see a red 'B' on the timing belt cover! I have it on my 84 as well.

One of those 'concours' things? :cool:

MikeFleming

12-05-2013, 10:40 AM

Hey.. I see a red 'B' on the timing belt cover! I have it on my 84 as well.

One of those 'concours' things? :cool: That may well be an original outer cover (well, a partial section of one) from the collective parts pile. Iirc I shortened it a couple decades back. I only use that when I need to locate/verify TDC without wanting the whole cover in place - like when installing a new belt or swapping cams.

MikeFleming

12-05-2013, 10:41 AM

Looking good Mike, so when do we get to see you fire the beast ? I might have video from the Birmingham dyno session somewhere. Another thing to search for (and upload to youtu.be).

stockman1

12-05-2013, 04:21 PM

Mike looks like you do some really nice work, wish you were closer would love to look over your shoulder and learn! Let me know when you dyno?

MikeFleming

12-05-2013, 07:27 PM

Sorry, didn't find any videos of the dyno pulls. The only dyno event it has been to was on September 01, 2006 in Birmingham, AL.

Here's some shots of the track day at Barber Motorsports Park, aka "The Golf Course", it's maiden track voyage after the restoration process with about 500 street miles to get things sorted out. Dave and myself cleaning the front glass with our team shirts on.
5843
5844
5845
5846
5847
5848

Those white wheels sure do stand out.
5849
5850

Dyno time.
5851
5852
5853

Results. 319 HP, 367 Ft-Lbs on 17 PSIG.
5854

Zetronix logging data. Top-to-bottom graphs are A/F ratio in green, noisy RPM signal in blue, EGT in yellow, TPS in pinkish, and MAF voltage in aqua. I have since fixed the noisy tach signal by taking the low-level signal of the PIP directly from the EEC.
5855

rodster

12-05-2013, 08:13 PM

I know I'm repeating myself.....but this stuff is soooo cool! No wonder I like hanging out here! :cool:

Under Pressure

07-11-2014, 04:58 AM

Excellent work done by you and your machinist. I'm shocked by the sloppy machine work from Esslinger.

MikeFleming

07-11-2014, 06:52 AM

I'm shocked by the sloppy machine work from Esslinger. They have only denied their "quality". And still claim their castings are with good, solid aluminum rather than soft, used beer can material.

I pity anyone that would run one "out of the box".

Desert Patina

07-12-2015, 05:17 PM

I hate to resurrect this, especially if it was mentioned elsewhere, but what pistons did you wind up using, and what rod length?

MikeFleming

07-12-2015, 05:41 PM

^
Race Engineering 8.5 CR forged units with a 0.927" piston pin, 0.030" oversize, 5.5" Crower rods properly bushed for the larger pin diameter. Lightened (five pounds removed), cryo-quenched 2.5L crank.

rodster

07-12-2015, 07:51 PM

Just your average parts. lol ;)

MikeFleming

07-13-2015, 05:25 AM

Just your average parts. lol ;) "Gots 'em all at Pep Boys. Had 'em right dare on da shelf, just awaitin' fer me."

rodster

07-13-2015, 05:52 PM

The Pep Boys counter guys head would explode if you requested a cryo-quenched 2.5L crank! :D

MikeFleming

07-13-2015, 06:28 PM

The Pep Boys counter guys head would explode if you requested a cryo-quenched 2.5L crank! :D Actually heads explode when asking ANYTHING SVO.

I used to go there decades ago and give them part numbers of stuff I wanted. In the beginning, they'd just mosey over and pick up the parts and I'd take 'em up front to pay.

Now (past decade??) they INSIST on looking it up in the computer - just to make sure they get me the correct parts. And they ALWAYS say "That's a five-Ohh, right?" and "There's no EFI Mustangs in 1984 [according to my parts book]."

Yup, always gobs of fun.

grntRUDD13

07-14-2015, 04:39 AM

Oh the joys of auto parts stores. At one point I was on a first name basis with the guys at the store I normally went to. They knew if I came in it was probably for an odd part and were prepared for it. They knew about my SVO, and knew about all the different brands of parts I put in my Jeep. Unfortunately they all left so it's back to how it was before.

MikeFleming

07-14-2015, 05:25 AM

^
Today's typical chain parts store person: "Would you like fries with that water pump?"

TurboRay

07-23-2015, 04:15 PM

Well......since you linked it from TF (and it's now been officially "resurrected") - I have a couple of questions:

What cam did you end up using - and what are its "events" & LSA, Mike? (I saw mention of a 2277, but also realize that's not what was "plotted" on the graph)
Where do I get my 2.5 crank lightened like yours?
Just wondering if you're aware that Brian at Esslinger has recently come up with a so-called "fix" - dunno whether permanent or temporary - that supposedly alleviates (prolongs?) the denied "washer-sinking phenomenon"?

I fully agree that such a "fix" shouldn't be necessary or required, and I sympathize with all of y'all that ended up with the "soft/bubbly" Essy castings, whose machining apparently leaves a lot to be desired. Hopefully, the casting processes and machining have improved - for the sake of all those plunking down their hard-earned money. But, in the meantime (and for those who already own one of the early/soft castings), the "fix" basically involves them (Essy) machining the top of the "column" (bolt/washer recess) to a shallow-angle "V-shape" and using special/matching cone-shaped large-diameter washers (flat on top). http://forum.turboford.org/ubb/graemlins/dunno.gif

MikeFleming

07-23-2015, 06:18 PM

Well......since you linked it from TF (and it's now been officially "resurrected") So the bag and the cat are no longer an assembly??

What cam did you end up using - and what are its "events" & LSA, Mike? (I saw mention of a 2277, but also realize that's not what was "plotted" on the graph)
Where do I get my 2.5 crank lightened like yours?
Just wondering if you're aware that Brian at Esslinger has recently come up with a so-called "fix" - dunno whether permanent or temporary - that supposedly alleviates (prolongs?) the denied "washer-sinking phenomenon"?

I originally installed Nick's large custom roller. It makes ~.585 lift and the timing events are shown in the chart above. Then I later installed a 2277. Now back to the Nick grind for more low-end grunt (seriously lacking response/power with the 2277 below 3800 or so).

Most of the internals came from Race Engineering (www.raceeng.com): (http://www.raceeng.com):) pistons, rings, pins, rods, crank. Look here: http://www.raceeng.com/c-4722-crankshaft.aspx

The crank I have is a small journal, lightened, cryo-quenched version. Don't see that listed on the website just now.

Someday I'll put new sticky tires on it and install a PiMP. And spend some time on the dyno to make it right. Not today though.