Wiring sizes in EEC harness?

[ChrisCurtin]

Hi,

What gauge are most of the wires in the EEC harness? Getting ready to fix the disaster that is my 84 RS Turbo harness and want to pick up the correct size butt connectors, shrink wrap and some spare wire.

Thanks,

Chris

[MikeFleming]

Most all of them are between 16 and 18 gauge. There's not much current going through each EEC wire, the only exceptions being the two main 12 VDC power lines and three grounds. Most of the sensor input lines are in the low milliamp range for load.

On a related note, do not use crimp connectors. Splice, solder and shrink wrap. And get a heat shrink specific heat gun.

[ChrisCurtin]

Thanks.

I thought Ford recommended using crimps and shrink wrap for wire repairs (not the insulated butt connectors you can't see where the wires are), or is that only for the fusible links?

[Meotchh]

A great option is to spend the money on multi-link connectors. Your crimp, heat with a torch or heat gun which allows a solder sleeve to flow in the connector & then allows the adhesive lined heatshrink on the connector to seal the connection.

[stott]

Most all of them are between 16 and 18 gauge. There's not much current going through each EEC wire, the only exceptions being the two main 12 VDC power lines and three grounds. Most of the sensor input lines are in the low milliamp range for load.

On a related note, do not use crimp connectors. Splice, solder and shrink wrap. And get a heat shrink specific heat gun.

There's absolutely nothing wrong with crimping. Soldering sucks because it is brittle and is way more susceptible to mechanical damage, not to mention a pain in the ass.

[MikeFleming]

There's absolutely nothing wrong with crimping. Soldering sucks because it is brittle and is way more susceptible to mechanical damage, not to mention a pain in the ass. My largest objection to crimping is the rabbit in the snake belly syndome. And with more than 20 wires into one connector, that's a huge rabbit.

Soldering, when done properly, has none of the characteristics you mention, except it takes time, proper equipment and skill. There is nothing electronic today that does not have soldered components and wires in it.

[stott]

the pcb's are soldered, but the terminals are not. hell, even the terminals on the eec-iv connector are crimped bullet terminals

[blueboss]

Uh huh.....the reason the EEC connectors are crimped and not soldered is money. It would've taken the manufacturer twice as long and twice as much money to make that connection vs. soldering. Period. Butt splices are for temp repairs. Solder and heat shrink are permenant. Ask any EE, soldering over splicing for circuit reliability and splicing loses every time.

[stott]

Ask any EE

https://www.google.com/search?q=soldering+or+crimping&aq=f&oq=soldering+or+crimping&aqs=chrome.0.57j0l2j62l3.5314j0&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

http://panduit.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/256/~/why-should-i-crimp-terminals-instead-of-soldering-them%3F

tons of information out there disagrees with you. also, just because crimping is faster (and cheaper) does not make it inherently worse. i'd rather have a terminal be crimped than soldered, because solder can break and has a lot of issues related to how it was performed. a crimp is a mechanically connected cold weld that will last until you die.

[Sick Puppy]

A great option is to spend the money on multi-link connectors. Your crimp, heat with a torch or heat gun which allows a solder sleeve to flow in the connector & then allows the adhesive lined heatshrink on the connector to seal the connection.

Mitch, a source for these?

My apologies for the hi-jack Chris.

[ChrisCurtin]

I found the MultiLink connectors here: http://www.cableorganizer.com/multilink-butt-splices/

So far I went and got a good pair of crimpers (so they make the dimple instead of crushing them) and non-insulated butt connectors and glue-lined heat shrink tubing. I was only able to get one wire fixed last weekend but hope to do a lot more on Saturday.

Thanks for all the help guys,

Chris

[stott]

as Mike alluded to with his rabbit/snake analogy, make sure you space out where you are putting those butt connectors or you will have a thick wad of them

[Sick Puppy]

Thanks Chris!

[blueboss]

Ask any EE

https://www.google.com/search?q=soldering+or+crimping&aq=f&oq=soldering+or+crimping&aqs=chrome.0.57j0l2j62l3.5314j0&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

http://panduit.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/256/~/why-should-i-crimp-terminals-instead-of-soldering-them%3F

tons of information out there disagrees with you. also, just because crimping is faster (and cheaper) does not make it inherently worse. i'd rather have a terminal be crimped than soldered, because solder can break and has a lot of issues related to how it was performed. a crimp is a mechanically connected cold weld that will last until you die.

I'm not going to get into a pissing contest. However, it is your OPINION that your mechanically connected cold weld will "last until you die." In fact, if the same ineptitude that is used to install a crimp/butt splice is applied to soldering, both joints will fail numerous areas. The nice thing is it takes less skill to operate a pair of strippers and crimpers than it does a soldering iron. Now, any knucklehead who knows how to use a knife without cutting his fingers off and a use pair of pliers without getting his foot stuck in the toilet can now magically join two pieces of wire together. You prefer to crimp, I prefer to solder. It is what it is.

BTW, if you're gonna Google something, make sure you apply the topic at hand. I.E. "Solder or Crimp in automotive applications" Makes for a more fair comparison.

https://www.highpowermedia.com/blog/3199/solder-or-crimp

[Meotchh]

Mitch, a source for these?

My apologies for the hi-jack Chris.

Paul,
You can find them at NAPA & many other parts stores. You can also order in bulk online through many outlets. In the past I have found some of the best deals in bulk from Waytek (http://www.waytekwire.com/item/31970/BUTT-CONNECTOR-CRIMPED-SEALED/).

[ChrisCurtin]

Repaired or replaced most of the connectors today. Butchered the old xr4ti harness to repair the 84 or 85 that I have. A couple of questions:

1. Does anyone have pictures of the EEC harness not installed in the car with close ups on where the wire wrapping 'T's? The harness I have is completely unwrapped.

2. Thoughts on how to repair this? It is where the two grounds (battery, fender) and 3 grounds from the harness come together:

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2819/9479932391_f9c95ff2b4_b.jpg

3. How to repair this. I THINK this is the power lead from the starter solenoid. Is there enough slack to cut the wire where the insulation is gone and install a new fusible link?

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3753/9482721382_8222cc3dff_b.jpg

Finally here is the picture of all the connectors I had to replace:

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3802/9482730320_f50464a6f2_b.jpg

[MikeFleming]

There are a couple options for adding insulation. One way is to cut the wire further downstream and slide heat-shrink tubing over it, then shrink it in place. A second option is some rubber glue stuff called Liquid Tape (comes in red & Black iirc). You gop it on with a small paint brush, let it dry (does not harden), lather, rinse, repeat as needed to egt full coverage.

On a side note: Lots of those close-ups you show have highly corroded wire strands in them. Try to clean them first to determine if they're good enough for service and, if not, replace those sections with fresh wire.

It's gonna be very difficult to have it all look OEM where all those grounds are crimped together. Go for electrical functionality first, then wrap it with that plastic split-loom stuff for some protection.

I have some pics of assorted harness repairs somewhere. I spent about 80 hours repairing, modifying and improving the assorted harnesses in my red car during its restomod.

[ChrisCurtin]

Thanks everyone.

If I HAD to replace that 5 wire crimp, what is the best way to do it? Twisting them all together and soldering looks painful to get right. Would extending all of them, adding eyelets and a ground post on the inner fender be electrically correct? (something like this: http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=JB-48 )

Mike, any pictures of the wrapped harness would be great.

Thanks,

Chris

[ChrisCurtin]

Getting ready for the weekend project. Any thoughts on my question about how to replace that 5 wire crimp if I can't get them cleaned up? They don't look too good ...

Thanks,

Chris

[Sick Puppy]

I'm no EE but I think your solution with the ground post is a good idea. As fussy as our cars are about grounds, that would be my first priority.

As Mike said, replace any questionable corroded wires to be sure the circuits are going to function well.
These cars are such "oddballs" anyway, who is going to argue with you that it's not "stock"?
Paul

[MikeFleming]

^
Paul has just earned a one-post ban for using the word "oddballs".

[Sick Puppy]

^
Paul has just earned a one-post ban for using the word "oddballs".

I typed this once and deleted it, then re-typed to cover my ban...lol

As W said...I think I misinterpreted myself. :confused:
I was refering to the Capri RSes and Turbo GTs as the "oddballs".
Compared to those two the SVOs are simply "common" Mustangs. 5047

Paul

[MikeFleming]

... as the "oddballs". You just did it again!! Another one-post ban.

Let that be a lesson to you!

[Sick Puppy]

You just did it again!! Another one-post ban.

Let that be a lesson to you!

Wow, twice in one day! Damn I'm good!