first startup

[mrzw70]

Is there anything special I need to do for a first start attempt for my svo? I pulled the engine out when I was fixing the drivers frame rail and replaced all the gaskets at that time. The engine has fresh oil and filter; I'm running straight water in the radiator. I plan to leave the coil wire off for the first start attempt to let the oil pump do it's thing and I always pour some oil in a new filter prior to install. Any other thngs you all do prior to a first start after a long period being drained of oil. I did not pull the motor apart to do bearings as everything looked good and the engine only has 79,000 miles.

[Ford Builder]

I would think you have all your base's covered your good to go.

[MikeFleming]

Slider or roller cam?

If a slider, as soon as it catches, set the throttle between 2000 and 2500 RPM and keep it there for at least 10 minutes. You can set the ignition timing at that speed (40 for non-PE, 45 for PE). Good idea to make sure the cooling system and fan(s) are in proper working order.

[mrzw70]

It is a slider, stock '84 motor. I replaced the turbo and e3 manifold with another T3 and an e6. Swapped in a la3 and repined as needed and added brown tops. Stingers 3" turbo back with a magnaflow and an NPR up front with stingers tubing. I'm currently trying to fab a new tube from the vam to the turbo with a bypass valve port so the top mount is still in use for now. Right now I just want to hear the car run for the first time (bought as a non runner). I do have an afpr as well. With the la3 will I set the timing at 40 at 2 to 2.5k rpm or will it be different?

[mrzw70]

I also replaced the radiator with an aluminum dual core and added a new electric fan but it is still controlled by the same switch as stock.

[MikeFleming]

You don't need the engine running to set the AFPR, just turn on the pump(s).

Yes, 40 BTDC @ 2-2.5K will be close enough. Then after the ten minutes of running, drop it to close throttle, unplug SPOUT nad set to 10-12.

Note that 40 BTDC is up under the water pump and about an inch off the timing cover scale. Having an advance-type timing light is a good thing here. If you;re fast, and ca ndo it without stopping the engine, pull the SPOUT and set it to 10-12, then re-connect SPOUT. Note that EGT will increase dramatically with timing at base and RPM at 2500 so keep the duration down to a couple minutes MAX.

[mrzw70]

Well the engine cranks but will not fire so I have some trouble shooting ahead of me. I'm not sure if its fuel or spark yet as I didn't have much time to fool with it yesterday. Will maybe try to look at it after work today. I need to paint mark the notch on the crank pulley, you can't tell where it's at but I'm going to need some help to get it bumped around to see where it's at. With the amount of changes I've made to the car it should be fun figuring out the no start condition. I hear the pumps prime and it cranks fine but it really doesn't even try to fire, just a slight cough during cranking occasionally. I will update as I get time to look at it. I'm hoping its something simple like plug wires wrong or something else stupid I've done.

[in2fords]

For me I didnt realize the TPS and what ever else has the plug next to it have the same plug and I had them backwards, its the 2 almost round plugs next to the throttle body.
Good luck.

[mrzw70]

I will check that plug as well. I plan to try a little starting fluid first, if that's not productive it's timing next and then wiring confirmation.
I plan to do a little trouble shooting after I get off work today.

[mrzw70]

Well it lives. I heard it run for the first time ever. Sounded like crap too, forgot to tighten the down pipe bolts. I will get a timing light on it soon to try to make it run decent at least. I can't wait fir it to move out of the garage under its own power. I don't think my wife can either. :stick_poke:

[MikeFleming]

Party On, Wayne!!

[Ford Builder]

That's great news .

[mrzw70]

A friend is going to be loaning me his timing light this week. Mine is non-op, it looks straight out of the late '70's
though. I'm guessing it's the bulb, Dad found it in his basement and gave it to me recently. After I get the light
base timing will be set and maybe a road test will follow. This is the light I have...
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk133/mrzw70/20130916_202924_zps23e697da.jpg

[mrzw70]

Well I borrowed a light and set the timing at 10 btdc and locked it down. I plugged the spout back in and it idles, idle is a little low 700 to 800 rpm on the tach. I drove it around the block and it makes no power. I wasn't sure if I was going to make it back up the grade to my driveway. I pulled it back in the garage and parked it, more trouble shooting for me, yay! I have one small oil leak I need to address, turbo oil return is leaking but it's too hot to tackle it now. I know I'm making progress but it is painfully slow. I plan on checking the waste gate actuator when I get time to make sure it's working correctly. I also have a manual boost controller and more vacuum lines, sitting next to the car, that I plan to install.
The turbo spools up, I can hear it, but I'm not showing any boost on the gauge. I still haven't been able to check the fuel pressure but the pumps are working and the car will run, you just have to use almost half throttle to make it go. I plan to put the top mount back on to see if that improves the situation and maybe rule out boost leaks. Other suggestions are welcomed and any direction you think I should head in specifically will be helpful. I'm glad it moves under its own power but I wish it moved a little better. Thanks in advance.
Mitchel.

[svopony]

sounds like the cam is out of time.

Bar

[MikeFleming]

When you reconnected SPOUT, where did the timing go?

[mrzw70]

I didn't recheck the timing after I plugged the spout back in. I will try that tomorrow, just got back home from kings island with the kids and I'm pretty tired. I plan to do some trouble shooting when I get up in the morning, I'll post my findings as i run across them. I plan to use my mity-vac to check for vacuum leaks and to confirm the waste gate is functional. I know the flapper isn't frozen as I checked it before I installed it. I will try to check fuel pressure as well, although I don't believe that's my issue.
I checked the cam timing to confirm position before trying to restart yesterday, its not exactly on the middle notch with the the marks but it is real close.
I can post a picture of the timing marks tomorrow if needed. It did seem to like the timing closer to 30* btdc than 10* when I was trying to start it.

[mrzw70]

Another question for the experts; What is this plug for? I can't seem to figure out where it goes. It's out of the same
harness as the vam plug.

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk133/mrzw70/20130920_201619_zps8276abd7.jpg

[MikeFleming]

If it were on the rearward side of hte RF strut tower, I'd say it looks like the AC pressure switch connector.

1984??

[Ford Builder]

Am sure its for the AC compressor its self.

[mrzw70]

When you reconnected SPOUT, where did the timing go?

About 32* btdc.

[mrzw70]

Am sure its for the AC compressor its self.

That is correct, I forgot about the plug on the back of the compressor.

[Ford Builder]

Your more then welcome.

[mrzw70]

So I put the top mount back on and confirmed the waste gate actuator was working. I fixed the oil leak I had with the turbo drain tube and put the brake light switch back on the pedal. When I pulled the manifold back off to fix the leak it looks like I have some oil getting into the number two and three exhaust ports, I'm guessing valve stem seals. I took it for a short drive again today and still no power. Even when I can get it to rev to 3 or 4k I can just barely see the boost gauge move. It's smoking out of the turbo, around the top mount coupler. I guess i'll recheck cam timing sometime soon. I had to walk away today so I didn't have to repair more bodywork.
The next step will be cam timing and then valve seals I guess. Try to track down my exhaust leak that I think I have, then try to figure out what the clunking is in the clutch. I hadn't noticed this before, when you push in the pedal there is no noise, let it out and it has a thumping sound. Any ideas are appreciated.

[MikeFleming]

32 at closed throttle with SPOUT in is correct.

What condition is the CAT and exhaust system?

[mrzw70]

3" from turbo to tail, no cat.

[mrzw70]

The LA3 I put in had a cutout in it where I'm guessing it was chipped previously. The chips store all the info, not the computer, correct?

[MikeFleming]

The chips store all the info, not the computer, correct? The chips only modify *some* of the code in the EECs for pre-OBD2 units. So removing the chip would put it all back to stock.

[mrzw70]

Does this look correct?
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk133/mrzw70/20130924_203514_zps5e1653cb.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk133/mrzw70/20130924_203554_zpsb112fd16.jpg

Crank key is vertical, timing mark shows zero on the crank pulley. When moving it to this position the
number one cylinder pushed air out of the spark plug hole.

[mrzw70]

I can't seem to figure it out. I may try to do the valve stem seals soon and recheck everything under there but I didn't make any internal changes to the engine, just gaskets. I know it could be a problem with the head but I don't have a compression gauge to check the cylinders. I need a local mentor, lol!

[MikeFleming]

Cam timing is close enough. That is not the issue.

[mrzw70]

Any ideas of where to go from here?

[mrzw70]

If I pinned the LA3 incorrectly would the computer go into limp mode and cause the no power issues I'm having?

[MikeFleming]

Have you checked for EEC codes? It would probably set some codes if it was pinned incorrectly.

[mrzw70]

I followed the chart on (rothfam.com) and moved 43 to 27, then 25 to 43, 30 to 24, 35 to 33 and 32 to 31; I then installed the la3. I'm thinking I missed something or maybe a few things. I do have the brown tops in the fuel rail as well. Will the the factory boost control still work or do I need to hook a manual boost controller?

[MikeFleming]

Do you still have an in-line intake manifold installed?

If yes, unplug the knock sensor.

[mrzw70]

Yes I do and I will. Anything else? Are there any other wires to move or do I need to tie any together?

[MikeFleming]

^
As long as the wiring changes are correct, that should be it.

The in-line intake is too noisy for the PE/LA series EECs so it retards the timing under most circumstances way too much (and dramatically raises EGT values in the process).

[mrzw70]

I did a compression test on the engine just to be sure. It showed (170, 180, 170, 150) number 4 was a little lower than the others but not too much.
Rechecked my repin job and reinstalled the LA3. The next step is to unhook the knock sensor and install the manual boost controller.
Do I need to unplug the wiring for the factory bcs or just unplug the vacum lines ?

[MikeFleming]

84? Unplug the 3-wire connector to the BC Module.

[mrzw70]

Three wire or two wire ? The one I think it is only has two wires (red and yellow) and two vacuum lines that run to the turbo inlet and outlet. While I'm asking questions, is the knock sensor on the bottom of the in-line intake at the drivers side rear within a few inches of the brake booster?

[MikeFleming]

The engine is an 84, right? What year is the chassis?

[mrzw70]

The car and engine are both 1984. This is what I believe to be the bcs, center of pic.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk133/mrzw70/20131001_220609_zps411e7dcb.jpg

[MikeFleming]

Yes, that is the BC *Solenoid*. IT connected to that large Motorcraft silver box underneath it that is the BC *Module*. Then the BCM connects to the EEC. Disconnect the 3-wire connector between the BCM and the EEC harness.

The BCM is an electrical amplifier to allow the low-power transistor driver in the EEC to drive (power) the low-impedance coil of the BCS. Like an in0line amp for low Ohm speakers.

Later BCSs were a much higher impedance and were driven directly from the EEC.

Or you could install a later high-impedance BCS and let the EEC rive it directly.

BTW - The EEC provides the grounding path, the +12VDC power comes from the harness.

[mrzw70]

So I was able to drive the car down the road tonight. It is now making boost and runs better but it will not idle. If I'm not pressing the gas pedal, it won't run. When driving it seems to come into boost around 2.5 to 3k then the boost kind of spikes and then falls off. I did not do any full throttle running, maybe half to three-quarters pedal. Its hard to tell what the boost peaked at as it was dark and my eyes aren't getting any better. I have an autometer boost gauge I haven't hooked up yet, that will happen soon.
Good news is I didn't notice any leaks and the car seems sound, a little loose but not horrible. Power steering works as do the brakes but unfortunately the parking brake light stayed on and it felt as though they were dragging. The funny thing is this was never a problem until tonight, which is about how my luck runs. The right turn signal isn't working but that should be an easy fix. I will try to fine tune the manual boost control to see if this helps my issue.
Thanks for all the help so far and I'm sure i'll have more questions.

[MikeFleming]

Sounds like you need to set the base idle.

Get the engine stinking hot - at least ten minutes of driving, NOT idling.
Unplug the TPS & ISC.
Start engine, may need to play with throttle ot keep ti from stalling.
Adjust the 10mm hex screw on the front of the throttle body to get an idle speed of 750 RPM.
Reconnect the ISC. Engine will jump to ~2000 RPM and slowly return to 900-950 in a few minutes. Be patient.

After it returns to a normal idle speed, switch it off and re-connect the TPS. Since the throttle plate stop setting has been changed, the TPS closed position will also need to be reset.
Adjust the TPS to ~0.90VDC closed throttle and verify it sweeps to more than 4.50 at WOT.

Clear any TPS-related codes (from running it with it disconnected).

Done.

Peak boost always happens at peak torque so your RPM values sound correct. If the throttle is not wide open, boost normally drops off quickly after torque peak RPM is passed. What you described is expected.

[mrzw70]

I will have to try that tomorrow to get the idle speed where it should be and then i'll try to tackle the parking brake as well. Thanks Mike.