Charging issue

[18lbs]

I have a new battery, and a rebuilt alternator on the car. Has been working fine for a few hundred miles but today when I got in the idiot light is on. I know it's an idiot light but has been a good guide in the past for charging issues, ie when the alternator failed. Any thoughts?

[Meotchh]

What year?
Stock rebuilt alt?
Did you check all connections at the battery to ensure they are clean & secure?
Did you check all main gnd connections to make sure they are clean & secure?

[MikeFleming]

Adding to Mitch's questions:

- Where did the rebuild come from? Parts store chain or Ford dealer?
- Voltage readings from voltmeter on battery with engine idling

The SVO originally came with a 60Amp alternator. Almost all of the rebuilders back in the day only installed 40 Amp diode plates when they did the rebuld, so they failed rather quickly in an SVO (especially with AC, elec. windows, etc.). I personally went through 8 reman failures from Checker in an 18 month period. They were all junk.

Got one (reman) from my Ford dealer and it lasted 7 years.

[stockman1]

I have a new battery, and a rebuilt alternator on the car. Has been working fine for a few hundred miles but today when I got in the idiot light is on. I know it's an idiot light but has been a good guide in the past for charging issues, ie when the alternator failed. Any thoughts?parts are Chinese and haves high fail rate!

[18lbs]

!984, with u/k alternator, 12 volts with engine running.

Here's the story. Bought the car about 6 years ago and immediately alternator was NFG. I had a used spare, put it on (worked) and had the dead one rebuilt at a local rebuilder. (starter/alternator guy) Put the rebuilt one on, did not work, switched them so u/k used one is back on. Had the rebuilt one done over, but never switched them out. Now about 5 years later I did a serpentine conversion, and I am living in a new city. Brought the 'rebuilt' one in to a starter/alternator guy, who cracked the case, checked it out, spun it up and said it was fine. Put the serpentine pulley on, hooked it all up and worked peachy for about a month, 3 or 400 miles then dead.

I suppose that I can pull the pulley and swap it out with the old one again?

[MikeFleming]

parts are Chinese and haves high fail rate! Doesn't really matter where the parts are made - the parts are not rated for he task at hand. It's like using a 10A fuse (well-made or not) in a 40A application. It's gonna fail.

Besides - aren't all diode plates made in China now?


I suppose that I can pull the pulley and swap it out with the old one again?
Sounds like your best path at this point. Then have the take-off unit tested.

Note that most testing places (at auto parts stores) do not do an accurate test on the diode ssts. Need an ocilloscope to do that, NOT a test light.

[Meotchh]

!984, with u/k alternator, 12 volts with engine running.

Only 12V with the engine running? Are you using any accessories when testing that voltage? What are you using for a meter to check that voltage?

[Ford Builder]

Have you checked the regulator may be your problem , also check your main plug at reg, may be green.

[18lbs]

OK just to confirm, on back of alternator one post is field one is stator, I have white and red wires which goes to which??

[18lbs]

Had rebuilt alt checked again was functioning great. Replaced voltage regulator shazaam 14.5v at the battery at idle.

[MikeFleming]

Party On, Wayne!

[Ford Builder]

So am the winner.

[MikeFleming]

^
You win One Internets Prize.

[18lbs]

So am the winner.

I'll send you the old regulator for your prize.

I like to post when a problem gets fixed for future people maybe with same issue.

[Ford Builder]

Thats Ok , I have my old retired regulator , glad I could help .