Help with tps adjustment

[84svounoh]

Ok so i have got the motor to running temp and disconnect the IAC. My meter is staying around 1.1v at closed throttle. When twisting the two screws on the back of the tps there was no adjustments being made. what should i do?

[84svounoh]

Nevermind i figured it out lol.

[MikeFleming]

BTW - the engine only needs to be at Op Temp for the base idle setting, not to adjust the TPS. You can let it cool off to do that if you want.

[84svounoh]

Thanks I finished it I'm going to do a thorough search for vacuum leaks and clean the IAC sometime later this week

[escogt]

BTW - the engine only needs to be at Op Temp for the base idle setting, not to adjust the TPS. You can let it cool off to do that if you want.

How do you adjust the 'base idle'? The screw under the throttle cable linkage?

[MikeFleming]

How do you adjust the 'base idle'? The screw under the throttle cable linkage? Yes. Engine hot, IAC disconnected. Set to 750 RPM. Then reconnect the IAC and wait for it to return to the EEC-controlled 900/950 RPM idle speed.

If the throttle plate closed angle changed - for example, when moving the stop screw, for example - the TPS closed setting must to reset.

[k98dave]

Yes. Engine hot, IAC disconnected. Set to 750 RPM. Then reconnect the IAC and wait for it to return to the EEC-controlled 900/950 RPM idle speed.

If the throttle plate closed angle changed - for example, when moving the stop screw, for example - the TPS closed setting must to reset.
OK is this the right way to do the IAC base idle reset and TPS voltage
Found this article is the resetting the IAC base idle and adjusting the Throttle Position Sensor on 2.3 Turbo Coupe It is recommended that your engine have a good tune up before you attempt to make any changes

Adjustment Procedure

1 First bring the engine up to normal operating temperature
2 Turn the engine off and unplug the Idle Air Control connector from the IAC.
3 Start Engine and adjust throttle body screw to obtain the base idle to 700 – 800 RPM.
4 Shut off engine and probe the back of the TPS connector with the volt meter.
5 Adjust the TPS output voltage to under 1.0 volt. Most turbo cars like a TPS voltage to around .90 - .95 volts the best.
6 Re connect the Idle Air Control connector
7 Start the engine. The engine’s idle speed should settle in around 1000 RPM as the computer re maps the TPS/IAC.

[FoxBuddy]

Yes. Engine hot, IAC disconnected. Set to 750 RPM. Then reconnect the IAC and wait for it to return to the EEC-controlled 900/950 RPM idle speed.

If the throttle plate closed angle changed - for example, when moving the stop screw, for example - the TPS closed setting must to reset.

I just finished up a little under hood work that didn't really require unplugging much; battery, fan, a couple of connectors near the wiper motor to reroute them better, one vaccum line etc.

I removed the intercooler brackets and replaced the hoses. I also replaced plugs and wires (since PO) after doing the cap and rotor last year. The number three plug was not changed at the last change (PO couldn't get at it?) and was a Motorcraft where the other three were Bosch platimum's.

Other than that, nothing was really touched. When I went to restart the car, it had a little trouble firing up where before it never had the issue. To get it going and keep it running, I had to keep my foot on the gas pedal slightly. I corrected this with the screw under the linkage and the car seems to run and drive good good. Start up "cold" the last two times seems low.

Was this the correct way to correct this or do I need to disconnect the IAC, set the idle, reconnect etc. as was suggested above?

[dznj]

If the car is running well, and the idle isn't hanging at any point during operation, I would leave it alone.

D



I just finished up a little under hood work that didn't really require unplugging much; battery, fan, a couple of connectors near the wiper motor to reroute them better, one vaccum line etc.

I removed the intercooler brackets and replaced the hoses. I also replaced plugs and wires (since PO) after doing the cap and rotor last year. The number three plug was not changed at the last change (PO couldn't get at it?) and was a Motorcraft where the other three were Bosch platimum's.

Other than that, nothing was really touched. When I went to restart the car, it had a little trouble firing up where before it never had the issue. To get it going and keep it running, I had to keep my foot on the gas pedal slightly. I corrected this with the screw under the linkage and the car seems to run and drive good good. Start up "cold" the last two times seems low.

Was this the correct way to correct this or do I need to disconnect the IAC, set the idle, reconnect etc. as was suggested above?

[MikeFleming]

I removed the intercooler brackets and replaced the hoses.
...
When I went to restart the car, it had a little trouble firing up where before it never had the issue. To get it going and keep it running, I had to keep my foot on the gas pedal slightly. My first thought after reading the above is there is a leak in one of the IC hoses. Be sure to verify/repair-as-needed those before resetting idle.

[FoxBuddy]

If the car is running well, and the idle isn't hanging at any point during operation, I would leave it alone.

D


My first thought after reading the above is there is a leak in one of the IC hoses. Be sure to verify/repair-as-needed those before resetting idle.

After setting the idle by turming up the screw and taking it for a ride, all seems well. It is boosting very well ~14-16 psi on the factory guage. When I did have a self inflicted intercooler hose leak a couple of years ago (loosened and "retightened" the clamps) it was super noticable and not like it acted (good) last night.

Off for a few days but I will double check the clamps when I get back now that it has gone through a heating/cooling cycle. I'm curious to see again how it "cold" starts as it seemed not to do a warm up with a high idle like it did before because of needing idle adjustment.

Thanks for the help!

[brsvo]

I would check for vacuum hose leaks. (ask me how I know) If you had to reset the idle screw it might not be a bad idea to reset base idle and tps. TPS settings have a big affect on these cars. My 2 cents.

[FoxBuddy]

I would check for vacuum hose leaks. (ask me how I know) If you had to reset the idle screw it might not be a bad idea to reset base idle and tps. TPS settings have a big affect on these cars. My 2 cents.

I was away for a few days and started the car "cold" again when I got back yesterday. It started but seemed like there was no choke/high idle. It did not stall but was idling just under 1000 for a few minutes until it warmed up when it used to have a fast idle. The car still operated normal and performed well when put through it's paces.

I did a quick check of the vacuum lines visually and don't see any obvious defects. What is your recommended method for checking for vacuum leaks? Not really wanting to spray WD40 or carb cleaner everywhere. I've read about using propane. Is that an option?

Thanks for any further info!

[FoxBuddy]

My first thought after reading the above is there is a leak in one of the IC hoses. Be sure to verify/repair-as-needed those before resetting idle.


I would check for vacuum hose leaks. (ask me how I know) If you had to reset the idle screw it might not be a bad idea to reset base idle and tps. TPS settings have a big affect on these cars. My 2 cents.

So, it turns out that I had disconnected (don't remember doing it) the connector to the IAC solenoid. That improved my cold start up!

I did not count the number of partial turns I gave to the throttle body start but backed it off a little.

Even though it seems to be running good, is there anything I need to do to ensure nothing is out of spec? Where does the voltage for the TPS get adjusted if it's required?

Thanks.

[MikeFleming]

Follow the idle set procedure:

With the engine at full op temp (which means driven for 10+ miles), disconnect the IAC.
Use the throttle stop screw to set idle speed to 750.
Recommend the iAC, wait for it to settle to normal idle speed - 900-1000 RPM.
Stop engine.
Set TPS to less than 0.900 at closed throttle, and check to be sure it goes greater than 4.50 VDC at wide open position.
Put tools away.

Open beer.

[FoxBuddy]

Follow the idle set procedure:

With the engine at full op temp (which means driven for 10+ miles), disconnect the IAC.
Use the throttle stop screw to set idle speed to 750.
Recommend the iAC, wait for it to settle to normal idle speed - 900-1000 RPM.
Stop engine.
Set TPS to less than 0.900 at closed throttle, and check to be sure it goes greater than 4.50 VDC at wide open position.
Put tools away.

Open beer.

Thanks Mike. I was actually looking for how/where to adjust the TPS if required (just 'cuz I've never done it before) but I found your article via Google which should help! https://www.svocop.com/Articles/3/index.html

For something foreign to me like this I was going to guess beer came first but I may need to take your advice to ensure task completion in a timely manner!

PS: Is it okay to go to WOT sitting still? Always scares me but I guess the computer prevents over-revving correct?

[MikeFleming]

Thanks Mike. I was actually looking for how/where to adjust the TPS if required (just 'cuz I've never done it before) but I found your article via Google which should help! https://www.svocop.com/Articles/3/index.html
(https://www.svocop.com/Articles/3/index.html) Fun fact: That article was written and published in 1990. I must be getting old.


For something foreign to me like this I was going to guess beer came first but I may need to take your advice to ensure task completion in a timely manner! For Pat (our namesake) "Consume beer "is every odd-numbered step. And, sometimes, a few even-numbered ones too!


PS: Is it okay to go to WOT sitting still? Always scares me but I guess the computer prevents over-revving correct? Yes, but why would you want to - unless you're building boost at the drag strip for a launch?Otehr than that, I cant off-hand think of any reason to stay WOT to redline sitting still. 4K makes the same point.

It will never go past 6500 RPM.

[brsvo]

You set the TPS with the engine off key on.

[FoxBuddy]

Fun fact: That article was written and published in 1990. I must be getting old.

For Pat (our namesake) "Consume beer "is every odd-numbered step. And, sometimes, a few even-numbered ones too!

Yes, but why would you want to - unless you're building boost at the drag strip for a launch?Otehr than that, I cant off-hand think of any reason to stay WOT to redline sitting still. 4K makes the same point.

It will never go past 6500 RPM.

I may have misunderstood the "and check to be sure it goes greater than 4.50 VDC at wide open position." meaning you had to go to WOT to set but as brsvo mentioned the car is off to set the TPS.


You set the TPS with the engine off key on.

Thanks. I just started getting back into a quick review of the Alan Slocum book as well as Mike's 2.3 tech manual. Good info, but it takes a bit to soak it all in.

[MikeFleming]

I may have misunderstood the "and check to be sure it goes greater than 4.50 VDC at wide open position." meaning you had to go to WOT to set but as brsvo mentioned the car is off to set the TPS. Yes, engine OFF as posted above, step 4:


With the engine at full op temp (which means driven for 10+ miles), disconnect the IAC.
Use the throttle stop screw to set idle speed to 750.
Recommend the iAC, wait for it to settle to normal idle speed - 900-1000 RPM.
Stop engine.
Set TPS to less than 0.900 at closed throttle, and check to be sure it goes greater than 4.50 VDC at wide open position.
Put tools away.

Open beer.

[FoxBuddy]

Follow the idle set procedure:

With the engine at full op temp (which means driven for 10+ miles), disconnect the IAC.
Use the throttle stop screw to set idle speed to 750.
Recommend the iAC, wait for it to settle to normal idle speed - 900-1000 RPM.
Stop engine.
Set TPS to less than 0.900 at closed throttle, and check to be sure it goes greater than 4.50 VDC at wide open position.
Put tools away.

Open beer.

Alright another question for something that appears simple or I am overlooking.

Do you disconnect/reconnect the IAC while the engine is running?

Last night I disconnected it with the engine off (after warming it up good) and set the idle with the timing light tach at around 750. I reconnected it while the car was running and it surged up to ~2500-2800. I waited a number of minutes but it only seemed to settle down to around 1200.

I tried it again by reconnecting the IAC with the engine off but the idle still never dropped as low as you mentioned above.

Thanks for any further insight.

(I never made it as far as getting to the TPS adjustment)

[MikeFleming]

Do you disconnect/reconnect the IAC while the engine is running? Shouldn't mater as it won't hurt th EEC or the IAC solenoid. When you connect with it on, the EEC is still commanding to raise idle speed by the max possible amount - since it been unable to do that while it was disconnected. It can take a few minutes.

If you switch off the engine, reconnect iAC, then start again, the EEC determines desired idle speed from the ECT sensor at startup time - there is absolutely no memory of the previous run cycle IAC speed setting. It doesn't use the high idle if the engine is warm except for the initial few seconds of no-pedal startup.


Last night I disconnected it with the engine off (after warming it up good) and set the idle with the timing light tach at around 750. I reconnected it while the car was running and it surged up to ~2500-2800. Expected. See above.


(I never made it as far as getting to the TPS adjustment) Yes, you must finish the whole procedure - you stopped before you were done.

As your punishment, you are banned (until your next post). Let that be a lesson to you!

[FoxBuddy]

I never updated this with the end of the story.

Finished. Once I figured out what to do, where to do it and how, it was easy. The screws for the TPS aren't the easiest to get at though!

http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o671/82GTforME/1986%20SVO/2016%20work/IMG_0526_zpsw73n0opv.jpg

One thing I noted is that the Alan Slocum book has slightly different numbers for the TPS closed throttle setting than what has been suggested here. Is there anything to that? The car seems to be running great regardless; thanks for the help!

[MikeFleming]

The screws for the TPS aren't the easiest to get at though! I use a #1 Phillips that's about 5" overall long - fits perfectly.


One thing I noted is that the Alan Slocum book has slightly different numbers for the TPS closed throttle setting than what has been suggested here. Is there anything to that? Most of Alan's book is dedicated/based on the EECs in the Merkur. The values I use are for the PE EEC, which is SVO-specific.