"The" Racecar Build

[vrinner]

Now this race car build is not to be confused with some other race car builds...this is "THE" race car build. Many have attempted, many have completed, but I don't think anyone has taken so long to complete...wait...I cant say complete yet can I...or others...Blue Bitch!

In the beginning this car started off fairly stock. I purchased this car from Robert Canepa (Bruce Canepa’s brother) back in 2000. Robert and Bruce raced this car in SCCA Club racing. According to Robert it was his first race car. The car was painted to match his Ferrari Challenge car. I did some minor mods to the car.big valve head, FMIC, shocks and springs



2.3 Turbo (Stock bottom end)
Big Valve Head


T3 Turbo
NPR FMIC


8.8 rear end, 4:11 gears
Stock T5 tranny


245/45/16 Wheels/Tires
Custom valved Koni Shocks


6 point Auto Power roll cage
Ford "C" springs


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I actually got T-Boned in this car.
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After numerous DNF's due to electrical issues I decided it was time to clean the 20 year old wiring up.

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Also had to do some engine bay cleanup

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Of course as you can probably guess...it didn't stop here...

[vrinner]

To make sure I keep your interest...here are some pics of the car done (mostly)...then I'll continue with the build saga...

Engine bay with custom intake (being replaced this week because it didn't work...more to come on that)

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Nice photo of the car at a Queen Mary Mustang show...took first place in SVO class...honestly there were much nicer SVO's there...I think this car took it just because of the "wow" factor...besides...who doesn't like a race car.
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Interior
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Hood Shot
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Rear wing
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Rear mount fuel filler
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[vrinner]

So I then decided it was time to put some real suspension in the car. Out goes the stock K-member
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Filled in some of the gazillion holes
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While waiting for the Maximum Motorsport Full Grip Kit I decided to do some painting (although premature)

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So Shiny
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Parts received for the Full Tilt Boogie!

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Big Brake Kit

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[stockman1]

How much rwhp are you making?

[TheSVOTrust]

And I thought I was "mad at my money" !!

Mark

[JTurbo]

Looking good!

[rodster]

Wow... yea the Wow factor! Very cool.:cool:

Thanks for sharing.

[vrinner]

Out with the old and in with the new, MM K-Member
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MM Caster Camber plates
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New steering rack
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Koni coil overs
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New spindles
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[vrinner]

Here are some pics of the X-bracing for the doors.
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A tangled web of roll bar
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Prepping for a fuel cell
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Additional front stiffening

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The cage goes from the back of the car through the firewall to the front shock towers and sway bar
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[vrinner]

Remember I said the roll cage went from the back to the front. This is a "reverse" Pat's strut tower brace

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Additional strut tower reenforcing

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All the way to the sway bar
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Might as well lighten up the front end since I added all that steel
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Someone told me the MegaSquirt is easy...I beg to differ. "Installing" the MegaSquirt was pretty easy. Making it work was a bit more challenging.
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Brakes and clutch are all done with new Willwood setup.

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This was the first attempt at the dash. Although it looks really cool, it was way too far back. I ended up replacing it later. I may go back to this design in the future.
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[vrinner]

Time to do some work on the rear end stetup

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The Maximum Motorsport shock connectors wouldn't fit.
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Had to improvise

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Some pics of the underside

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[vrinner]

Some pics of the engine bay before paint
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Here is the dash I originally had in mind...I think I should have kept it this way

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Some of the painted cage

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[84svounoh]

This is an awesome build good job

[Meotchh]

Vince,
With the work that all of us had in that car, we were all proud to see it place first at the Queen Mary show.

[MikeFleming]

With the work that all of us had in that car, we were all proud to see it place first at the Queen Mary show. Anohter trophy for Team Red!! Nice work!!

[vrinner]

OK...now I'm going out of order because I just starting putting back in a stock (ported) upper intake. The custom one we built didn't have the right volume needed. I was only able to get about 210 RWHP out of the motor. Should have been able to make a lot more. I used to have a NPR FMIC on the car and I still have the plumbing for that. However with the new FMIC I needed some new plumbing.

Here are some pics of the new plumbing, still need to trim to fit but I had to prove that I'm actively working on getting the car to the track!
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[vrinner]

Now that I have the suspension in place I put the wheels on and don't have the clearance needed both front and rear.

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I did a lot of research on the fenders I wanted and kept coming back to the Ford Motorsport flares. However at the time they were not available so I decided to build my own. After this project was complete, the company that originally made them started producing them again. I wish they would have had them available before I went through all this reverse engineering. But it was still fun to make them.

I mocked up what I wanted the fenders to look like.
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Then I cut the fenders
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[vrinner]

Now it's time to build them.

First I built the cardboard shape, taped it to the fender then welded on the skeleton

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Welded on some steel

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[vrinner]

Here are some more pics of getting the basic shape down with the sheet metal

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[vrinner]

I had to do the same process with the rear fenders.
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[vrinner]

Some more sheet metal work
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After I got the shape, I then had to cut out the fender well
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I also had to cut my wiring...unintentionally
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Folded up the wheel well and riveted
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Then it was time to bondo
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And shape and bondo
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More Shaping, more bondo
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Getting close to the shape I wanted
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[vrinner]

I feel that the fenders are now a good shape and it's now time to take them off the car and send to the fiberglass shop to make the molds.

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The front fenders and rear fenders I was able to just unbolt them and then send the "plugs" off to the fiberglass shop to make the molds
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Back side of the rear fenders
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Here are the front fiberglass fenders. Final product.
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Some of the details of the front fenders
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[vrinner]

Here are the rear fiberglass fenders on the car prepping for paint.

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We are painting the car in my garage. Not recommended.
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Bob painting the hood outside. Not recommended.
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All the body panels on the car and painted...finger prints, dust and all.
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More details to follow...

[mactoolssvo]

Holy Cow ! Love the metal fab work ...


Andy

[MikeFleming]

Where's the pic of the famous "thumbprint"??

[vrinner]

Here is a shot of the engine bay. This is with a custom built intake manifold that really didn't work. Although it looks fairly cool as well as gave a super clean look to the engine bay, the most we could squeeze out of it was about 215 RWHP. Not enough for a race car. I tracked it a couple of times with this setup but it just wasn't enough.
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Here is the fuel cell cover. Under the cover is a 22 gallon enduro Fuel Safe cell. Also has fire suppression nosal inside.
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Here is a pic of the dash before some other mods. I really like the other dash I originally did. May go back to that design at some point.

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Here is a pick of the back side of the dash.
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Here is a pick of the wiring for the Mega Squirt II. You can also see the
brake pedal and clutch setup
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Here are some pics of the "not so flat" Bob working on the cage. He was at my house for about 10 minutes, broke out the grinder and hacked off part of my roll cage. Such a pro!
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Fire system. Lines go to the fuel cell, drivers compartments and engine.

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[Bob Holmes]

NICE!!!!

How long ago was that? :avataraFu_BangingYo

[MikeFleming]

How long ago was that? 2009.

Evidence:
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[Bob Holmes]

Hey, I'm not the guy that bought the seat that wouldn't fit...I just fixed the problem. :P

[vrinner]

OK...so the custom intake that was built just didn't seem to work. Couldn't pull more than 210RWHP out of it. Not enough volume in it...I think.

So I decided to put back the stock (ported) upper intake. Of course this involved a new throttle cable that had to be custom ordered because the pedals are not in the stock location anymore.

Here is a pic of the custom intake. Although it looks cool...doesn't function...no function...gotta go.

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Here are some pics of the stock upper back in place.

Because of the custom throttle cable, I had to put a second return spring on for safety.


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Probably will put some more heat shielding on

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[vrinner]

Another problem I kept having was the turbo to manifold studs would keep coming loose. I realized that the intake tube that was attached to the turbo that was attached to the engine was firmly attached to the body of the car. This did not allow anything to flex probably causing the studs to work themselves free. So I had to cut the tube and put in some flex tube.

Hope it works.

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[Jack B]

Cool build! Are you running EDIS? Did see the dizzy sticking up and take it by plug wire routing that the coil pack is mounted in the cowl.

[vrinner]

Running a Megasquirt with crank sensor. No EDIS. No dizzy either. I think you see some alternator wiring. Yes the coil pack is under the cowl.

[Jack B]

My bad..meant to type "Didn't see the Dizzy".

[vrinner]

Well it's been a long time since I updated anything on this build.

Took the car out today at Willow Springs (Big Willow) to race with the Alfa Club. After many failed attempts at a fully successful day of running all sessions AND completing the final race, finally did it today.

Car was not building boost. After several attempts ot new waste gate actuator, plumbing and vacuum issues, it ended up that I didn't have enough pre-tension on the regulator to waste gate arm. Once I put about 1/2 inch of pre-tension, it was at least over boosting. Then we dialed back the boost regulator and I was "fairly" consistently running 15-16 lbs boost but fluxuating heavily. The car was also backfiring above 5500RPM and on the boost.

Regardless of the issues above, I still call this a successful day. Although still getting passed by Miata's and a super charged MR2 down the front straight. I'm pretty sure if I had the HP to at least keep up pm the straights, I'm sure I would do much better.

Probably going to end up putting the 2.6 stroked motor in the car before the next event.

[Raven855]

Glad to hear you had a succesful outing! I would recommend that before you put in that stroker you fix the problem you have though. You are so close to making the car very enjoyable!

[Bob Holmes]

Glad to hear that you got it on the track. Step in the correct directions.

[MikeFleming]

It's always a pleasure to be able to drive it back onto the trailer after an event.

Congrtats on the results of all the hard work!!

[vrinner]

2.6 motor installed. Exhaust manifold flipped over using some "Chip Flips"
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Cut and rotated the upper intake.
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I little more plumbing left to do then back to the dyno for a re-tune.

[Raven855]

Nice progress Vince!

[brsvo]

Looks familiar. Make sure the throttle clears the hood-ask me how I know!!

[vrinner]

Looks familiar. Make sure the throttle clears the hood-ask me how I know!!

Already had to cut out some of the fiberglass hood support material to clear the turbo. Seems to close OK right now but we will see once it's all put together and running.

[MikeFleming]

Already had to cut out some of the fiberglass hood support material to clear the turbo. Seems to close OK right now but we will see once it's all put together and running. Get some heat shields and airflow in there. GFRP burns easily.

[Bob Holmes]

When is the next track day?

[MikeFleming]

BTW - Vince, your car has just the right amount of red in it.

[brsvo]

Hopefully your glass hood has the supports in different areas than stock. My throttle caught on the inside of the reinforcement rib when the motor torqued under full boost.

[vrinner]

Heat shields...yes...in progress
Next Track day...Hopefully late April at Spring Mountain
Red...of course
Supports...HO Fibertrend hood. The supports have been "modified" many times. Throttle looks like it will all clear but like you mentioned, I wont know until it's running on the track again.

[8T6 SVO]

Vince,

Don't know if you need any "heat shield" stuff like this, but if you do, PM your address to me and I'll send it to you.

I love your persistence - and all of your hard work.

Greg

[vrinner]

Thanks Greg. PM sent.

It certainly has taken some time to get things all worked out. Everything else on the car is setup great. Just gotta get the motor done.

[MikeFleming]

Speaking of heat shielding, found this recently:

http://www.zircotec.com/page/--zircoflex-gold/199

I know nothing about it, but it does look interesting.

[vrinner]

A little bit further along. Had to have a new turbo oil feed line and drain made. Next is put on the heat shielding (thanks Gregg!) then button up the small bits.
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[MikeFleming]

I, personally, would like to see some soft grommet material (even rubber hose) surrounding these holes in the sheet metal.
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Something to do during Knotts weekend.

[vrinner]

Yeah...the plug wires do have a grommet and the other line needs it for sure

[brsvo]

I'm guessing the coil is inside to keep it away from engine heat?

[MikeFleming]

I'm guessing the coil is inside to keep it away from engine heat? And so the driver can switch coils, should the need arise, without stopping in the pits.

[J. Caraco]

vrinner. I have a question on your catch can. Is it setup to drain into the pan, (with a check valve?) or do you do it manually into a cup of some sorts? I have one and it fills up WAY to fast. Takes forever to drain thru the tiny drain cock. Then again the hose you have is way smaller than what I have.

TIA. Jim

[vrinner]

vrinner. I have a question on your catch can. Is it setup to drain into the pan, (with a check valve?) or do you do it manually into a cup of some sorts? I have one and it fills up WAY to fast. Takes forever to drain thru the tiny drain cock. Then again the hose you have is way smaller than what I have.

TIA. Jim


Setup to drain back into the pan...kind of. So from the valve cover it goes into the can. There is another larger line that goes to the block on the intake side where where the stock pcv valve is. There is a third drain line that I still need to drain every couple of hours of running the car.

[vrinner]

OK...so I've seen a couple of different versions of this.
Option 1
Boost hose from turbo compressor to the inlet (bottom) of the Gillis Valve
Hose from outlet (side) of the Gillis Valve to the bottom port of the Tial external waste gate
Top port of the Tial external waste gate goes to atmosphere

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Option 2
Boost hose from turbo compressor with a T
One side of T goes to the inlet (bottom) of the Gillis Valve
The other side of the T goes to the bottom port of the Tial external waste gate
Hose from the outlet (side) of the Gillis Valve to the TOP port of the Tial external waste gate

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Any opinion on which one to go with?

[Raven855]

When you use a single port boost controller like the Gillis, you only use the side port (pressure port).

You will have your pressure signal coming from the compressor to the boost controller, and from the boost controller to the side port on the Tial.

Your Top port on the Tial, will not be plugged to anything (vented to atmosphere).

Make sure that your Tial valve is pointing towards the cross over inlet pipe (where the gases are coming in) and make sure that the Gillis stays mounted like you have it shown.

[vrinner]

When you use a single port boost controller like the Gillis, you only use the side port (pressure port).

You will have your pressure signal coming from the compressor to the boost controller, and from the boost controller to the side port on the Tial.

Your Top port on the Tial, will not be plugged to anything (vented to atmosphere).

Make sure that your Tial valve is pointing towards the cross over inlet pipe (where the gases are coming in) and make sure that the Gillis stays mounted like you have it shown.

OK...just to make sure, like my option 1 picture in previous post? Also make sure valve is pointing towards the cross over inlet pipe...do you mean the valve inside the wastegate or something else. Here is a picture of the wastegate and the crossover lines.

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One more question...the turbo currently does NOT have a port for the vacuum line. I can either drill and tap the turbo (more risky) or can I drill and tape into the intercooler pipe just past turbo before the IC?