View Full Version : Turbo to header nuts, they keep coming loose
SVO58
12-30-2013, 05:14 AM
Anyone know where I can get 4 locking turbo to header nuts. I read that they can't be coated because of the heat. I used 2 different sets and still came loose. Does anyone know of a place that they had luck with to buy them. I have to take the header off to get to the turbo nuts to tighten them and it's a pain in the a**. Any help would be great. Thanks
Meotchh
12-30-2013, 08:48 AM
Go to any Cummins dealer & you will find what you need. Fastenall also has them, but not normally in stock.
Some options in your area you can check: http://www.yellowpages.com/clifton-park-ny/cummins-diesel-repair
SVOBoyd
12-30-2013, 08:56 AM
The last time I used Cummins diesel nuts 3818824. Shortly after installing the nuts I had to remove the turbo and when I removed the turbo all of the nuts were loose (not falling off lose but easily removed with a wrench). So when I reinstalled the turbo I used Stage 8 locking nuts part no. 3952. The stage 8 nuts use a tab that is supposed to keep the nut from working loose. The tabs would be easy to install if they were in an open area with easy access but I thought they were difficult to install on the SVO. I haven't run the car yet with the Stage 8 nuts but I'll post back when I've run the car enough to see if the bolts loosen up.
Meotchh
12-30-2013, 09:15 AM
What did you torque them to?
Did you check them following a heat cycle to retorque?
SVOBoyd
12-30-2013, 11:57 AM
What did you torque them to?
Did you check them following a heat cycle to retorque?
I used a box end wrench to tighten the nuts (two actually one for added leverage), I just tightened the crap out of them. I think the issue is not re-tightening after a heat cycle.
MikeFleming
12-30-2013, 12:23 PM
If you take off the turbine outlet elbow and the CHRA assy, you can get straight sockets onto all four turbine housing-to-manifold nuts and use a proper torque wrench with 6-point sockets. I have pics somewhere.
An added benefit is you can install the CHRA with proper up/down clocking and then fir the compressor housing where it's neeed. Unfortunately it may require adjusting he free length of the wastegate actuator arm.
dagenham
12-30-2013, 01:00 PM
What about using a slighty longer stud and using a dounle nut setup??
Meotchh
12-30-2013, 01:23 PM
What about using a slighty longer stud and using a dounle nut setup??
I would steer clear of a double nut on those studs. Eventually they will become a single nut & you will be cussing even more when you need to remove them.
SVO58
12-30-2013, 03:31 PM
Will these work, and what size nut do I need.
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=796&cat_key=305&prodname=Hex+Crimplock+Nuts
MikeFleming
12-30-2013, 04:12 PM
What about using a slighty longer stud and using a dounle nut setup?? Bigggest issue with using longer studs is the clearance issues to the turbine outlet elbow and CHRA housings when installed.
Will these work, and what size nut do I need.
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=796&cat_key=305&prodname=Hex+Crimplock+Nuts Yes.
10x1.5mm is the factory size.
rodster
12-30-2013, 04:29 PM
Great thread and lots of good info! :like2:
Gyrhead
12-30-2013, 08:09 PM
I use the Stage 8 fasteners. Part number 4928 IIRC. Seem to have worked well for me
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2026 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.