86 SVO stuff I'm doing thread

[SnakePlisskin]

Thought I'd start a thread here of my new 86 svo I purchased. Not really a project, but lots of stuff to do/check/ get ready for the road and improvements down the line.My welcome thread is getting rather long, so I'll be here from now on posting stuff.

[SnakePlisskin]

So yesterday I cleaned and conditioned all the leather items and I have a very nice steering wheel that was hidden under the wheel cover,yay! I have a broken vac/emissions line, one of the hard plastic ones coming off a solenoid. I don't have the vac line diagram, so can someone post where this line goes?

[SnakePlisskin]

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Behind right shock tower.

[SnakePlisskin]

So today I'm looking at why the car shuts off after you release key from start positon. I knew it had to do with ignition switch, I just had to get a look at it. I was expecting a lower column mounted switch as I'm used to seeing on the fox bodies. Wrong, 87-93 fox's have this, not these cars, damn. It's all integral iggy switch. I pulled column trim covers off and there it is! The problem is the harness connector is loose in the iggy switch. It sits a bit crooked and has a 1/8 inch gap on one end, enough to not make contact and car shuts right off. If I hold connector in, no problems, works as it should.

[MikeFleming]

On that bracket are two thingies, each with a two-wire connector (one of them only uses one wire).

One of them has a single vac/pressure port on it. That one is the Overboost Switch that activates the buzzer and dash light. On the SVO it is originally set to activate at 17.5 PSIG (+/- 0.5 PSIG). That hose goes to the manifold pressure/vac tree on the firewall above the brake booster. It sees real intake manifold pressure without any check valves in place. Note these switches often fail in the first decade of use due to the excessive closeness of that terribly hot, radiant exhaust system.

Additionally worth noting is the Overboost switch sends it's ground signal through the bracket into the strut tower/chassis. The grey two-wire connector only uses one wire while the other is crimped to the lower bracket, then screwed to the upper bracket then to the back side of the right strut tower for the ground path - an Electrical tech's nightmare. Definitely not a good way to do it as corrosion plays a large part in these systems failing over time.

The other one is the EGR solenoid and it has two hose connections. One side of it goes to the same intake manifold vac/pressure source s the overboost switch but has a one-way check valve in-line near the solenoid so pressure does not get plumbed to the EGR valve. One hose, with check valve, goes to the intake pressure.vac tree on the firewall and the other goes to the EGR valve nipple.

Here's an assortment of stock hose/tube and switches/solenoid installations. And what they should look like for a proper restoration (fine walnut shells in the blast cabinet did most of the cleaning on rust-free parts).
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[MikeFleming]

So today I'm looking at why the car shuts off after you release key from start positon. I knew it had to do with ignition switch, I just had to get a look at it. I was expecting a lower column mounted switch as I'm used to seeing on the fox bodies. Wrong, 87-93 fox's have this, not these cars, damn. It's all integral iggy switch. I pulled column trim covers off and there it is! The problem is the harness connector is loose in the iggy switch. It sits a bit crooked and has a 1/8 inch gap on one end, enough to not make contact and car shuts right off. If I hold connector in, no problems, works as it should. Replace the ignition switch. That's what's falling apart. VERY common issue - IIRC there has been at least one recall on this.

[SnakePlisskin]

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Mike, yes I figured iggy switch was bad, you can see plastic part seperating from pot medal part. It's riveted on, what's your preferred method to replace rivets/switch mounting?
The other picture is of someones attempt at a boost controller. It was rigged up under dash, wasn't hooked up to turbo thou.

[SnakePlisskin]

Now pics don't post, only attachment,oh boy.:eek:

[MikeFleming]

It's riveted on, what's your preferred method to replace rivets/switch mounting? Not rivets, rather shear bolts with the remaining piece holding the switch in place.

Use a sharp, flat chisel and cut a small flat-head slice into the remaining bolt head - it's a VERY soft steel. Then hold the chisel in the slot while rotating it anticlockwise while pushing it on with the chisel. They're not tight and come out very easily - no thread locker from factory.

New switches from Ford used to come with new shear bolts; or you can replace them with bolts/screws from your threaded bolt spare parts box or your local hardware store.

[MikeFleming]

Now pics don't post, only attachment,oh boy.:eek: Obviously you were bad.

Go back & edit the post and add the attachment.

[SnakePlisskin]

Ok Mike, shear bolts much better than rivets!

[MikeFleming]

^
Yes, indeed. No drilling required.

[SnakePlisskin]

Got a new iggy switch and autozone had the correct black key cylinder for $15 so I splurged and got it while I'm in the column anyway. I don't have any chisels at the moment, didn't bring much with me from NY, so I'll be gathering tools again as now I have a toy to tinker with! So, chisel set is tops on the list.

I'm going to change all the hoses also, when you squeeze a heater hose and it makes a crunching sound, that's usually not good,lol. Rad hoses are hard as a rock also.
Another surprise mod already done, was I was looking under the hood and saw something red and glittery. I got the drop light and lo and behold a red firwall cable adjuster greeted me. So usually when you see one of those, good chance the quadrant was changed also. So I peek under the dash and see an aluminum quadrant,YES!! That saves me some time and cashola's.:D

[SnakePlisskin]

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Got to take this home for an evening for a local wed night car show last fall. 2011 supersnake 750hp, was a fun ride!

[SnakePlisskin]

Iggy switch and new key lock cylinder installed yesterday and cleaned all the plastic covers that came off the column. 27 years of dust build up ewww! Ordered all the rad and heater hoses from Pep boys. One heater hose is questionable from what their photo showed as far as how it's molded compared to the one on my car. The one on the car is basically a 180 degree loop. I did find one on their shelf in back room that is a near identical match, if the ordered one isn't right I'll grab the in store one I found.

I'm about to glue the steering wheel center pad leather down. I used a hair dryer to soften up the leather and it helps a lot. Heat and stick!

[SnakePlisskin]

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Here's pic of horn pad reglued and new keylock cylinder. Also some pics upon pick up and delivery. Not sure if I posted those yet.

[MikeFleming]

Nice car hauler!

[SnakePlisskin]

Nice car hauler!
Yes it is Mike! My car travels in style!

[SnakePlisskin]

My Aluminum radiator is toast, it's corroded all to hell and leaks. It looked good on the outside, but when I bought the svo, there was dried up orange coolant/rusty color all over the driver's side of the radiator and core support, so there was some concern there upon purchase. Today I replaced both battery cables, and cleaned all of the inner fender behind battery, coolant bottle, the whole area in the corner of engine bay. So, I drained the cooling system and took rad out to flush it with the garden hose and sprayed and scrubed it nice and clean with the purple cleaner stuff.

So I was holding it up, tilted and the water left inside was running out, but not out of the lower hose hole. I was like damn there can't be that much water trapped in the fins! I put more water in it, held it up again and sure enough there's wear marks/holes on pretty much both tanks at the bottom where it's peeing out of.
It's not worth fixing once you see the pictures of the top hose mount.

[SnakePlisskin]

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mmm yummy!

[SnakePlisskin]

Cooling fan question, we have electirc fans on our svo's, someone put an adjustable temp control on the car and I want to go back to stock fan control. Where is temp sensor/sender and is there a factory relay somewhere? I think I found the sensor, is it it the one on the lower intake in the center? Just want to confirm this. I have no repair manuals yet for this car.

Also, the generic part store chains don't have the correct heater hoses that come off firewall for heater core. They only have the ones that are under the intake manifold. So many damn hoses!! haha

[MikeFleming]

Yes, the cooling fan temp sensor is in the coolant passage on the bottom of the lower intake. Early cars used a single-prong switch that grounded to the intake (be careful using too much teflon tape!) and the later ones used a two-wire sensor that was isolated from ground.

Both used the same fan controller that is under the steering column in two flavors - with and without AC.

[SnakePlisskin]

Thanks Mike!

[SnakePlisskin]

Spent the weekend cleaning front half of the engine bay and back flushed the cooling system, man some nasty crude came out! The radiator was to corroded to reuse and leaked after I flushed it with it out of the car. All the crude in the bottom kept it from leaking when car was off and cold, but now I know where all the dried antifreeze splatter came from. I opted for now to just get the pep boys rad for $85 to get it up and running. New thermo is in, timing belt looked in good shape too.
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[SnakePlisskin]

So more tinkering has been going on, replaced all of the hoses up front, put the new rad in and then filled with water and the coolant flush additive. Can't get the flow to come thru the heater core, it should've flowed thru by now if it was just air in there and I'm fearing the core is shot and plugged up. Heat blows like luke warm barely. I'm going to dump the water/flush mix out soon and them pull both heater hoses off the core and backflush it with the garden hose.
Also the cooling fan works when you power it up, but not coming on yet with the relay control, have to check that out also.

[SnakePlisskin]

So I know why someone had an aftermarket cooling fan controller on the car. The stock fan controller doesn't work. I still have the aftermarket one and will wire it up saturday and see if that one still works, if not I'll get a new fan controller. I wanna drive my svo!!

[JTurbo]

All SVO's should have a fan bypass switch wired in, just in case....

http://www.turboford.org/faq/fan_swch.shtml

Good Luck!

[SnakePlisskin]

Thanks J! So, the aftermarket controller is crap too, doesn't work,lol. Some good news is I have heat and it's flowing thru the heater core,YAY! It just took a few heating/cooling cycles and the air came out. So a fan controller is next on the ordering list. Does anyone use one that has the dry probe that goes in the fins of the rad and how do you like it and is that a reliable type temp probe in your opinion?

[SnakePlisskin]

I found out today that we get a discount thru summit and jegs at work, cool. Have a nice Derale fan controller picked out from jeg's, going to pay the parts manager a visit when I get into work and get one ordered. Picked up new belts and an alternator also. Something's wrong when the power lead on back of alt, it glows orange hot and spits sparks of of it,lol.

[Meotchh]

What are you going to do with the stock fan controller?

[SnakePlisskin]

Meotchh, just going to leave it attached under the dash.

[k98dave]

Meotchh, just going to leave it attached under the dash.

Did you check to see if its bad. Conn contacts overheated and plastic melted?

For what its worth I have had Flexlite fans with probe sensors on several 5.0 cars. None of the sensors/adj modules lasted more than a year, and they were not as good cooling as the stock clutched fan.

[SnakePlisskin]

K98dave,
no I never unplugged it to check connector, it just doesn't work. I did get a derale adjustable controller and installed it last sunday and it works like a dream! Monday night I took the svo out for a short spin in the hood, runs great! It is running possibly to cool, needle on the gauge was barely at the N in normal. The gauge isn't the most accurate I'm guessing. The other issue is the tight area around the gas pedal and brake pedal, I have big feet and it's very awkward to move the right foot off and on between the two pedals.

[SnakePlisskin]

So I figured out why the area around the brake pedal/gas pedal is so tight. The svo's use an automatic brake pedal and not the standard manual pedal in every other stick mustang which is much smaller. I'm going to get a non svo manual brake pedal and swap it out. My guess is the engineers at svo wanted to make it as easy as possible to do the heel and toe technique.

Also took out the front strut tower brace, removed the alternator and while it's out I looked at cap and rotor and it's pretty toasty looking, so installing new parts tomorrow, new plugs also.

[SnakePlisskin]

Lucked out today, guy on CL was parting out a 89 hatch and still had brake pedal for a twenty spot! clutch pedal was gone already and the car was pretty much stripped to the bone. It had a black interior so dash was sold and gone already. easy access to the pedal! Plus he was only 5 minutes from me! I'm going to swap brake pedals first and then see if I need to do clutch pedal. Finished up cap, rotor, alternator, yay no more glowing power lead on the back! and new belts on.

[MikeFleming]

Clutch pedal is same, only the brake pedal was changed in the SVO.

[SnakePlisskin]

Clutch pedal is same, only the brake pedal was changed in the SVO.
Yup, my clutch pedal still has a lean to the right, so once brake pedal is swapped I'll evaluate if I need to straighten the clutch pedal.

[SnakePlisskin]

Mike, I'm still getting orangy colored soup from my cooling system, which leads me to believe there's a build up of crude in bottom of the block which is why is was looking for the block drain info. My 86 has the coolant fed turbo correct? So I need to pull that hose off block by starter as you mentioned in the other thread? I'm going to swap pedals saturday and then delve into flushing the block.

[MikeFleming]

^
Yep, all 86 turbo'd has coolant-fed turbos. And that lower hose on the nipple is the block drain on the right side. There are cooling system flushes that will help remove [some] deposits, oils, etc.

[SnakePlisskin]

Mike, can I reach that hose from the top if I remove intercooler? Thanks for your help!

[MikeFleming]

Yes, bit it's a tight fit if you have larger hands. Be careful as there's sharp edges nearby.

More clearance with the downpipe removed.

[SnakePlisskin]

Yes, bit it's a tight fit if you have larger hands. Be careful as there's sharp edges nearby.

More clearance with the downpipe removed.

Ok Mike, I'll take a look at it this weekend.

[SnakePlisskin]

I just finished the pedal swap, HALLELUJAH!! What a pain in the ass, I started it yesterday, but ran into two issues, I needed a stubby 13mm for the nut side of the pedal bolt which I didn't have and then felt woozy being upside down under dash. I had taken a pain pill and was crashing from the morning coffee and muffin. Tip, take your pills after car work is done,lol.

I got a stubby wrench set last night and once pedal was out it went together much faster,whee! I'll post pics later today, lunch time!

[MikeFleming]

BTW - the pedal box is MUCH easier to work on with the dash out.

Just sayin'.

[SnakePlisskin]

I'm sure it is Mike, but not required. Took out driver's seat and that helps a ton. No way I'm pulling dash just for a pedal swap. cheers!

[SnakePlisskin]

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Before and after, much, much better!!!

[SnakePlisskin]

Spent yesterday and today live flushing the cooling system with engine running. Worked like a charm with the drain plug out and constantly feeding fresh water into the radiator. Probably 95% clear and I'm going to do one last flush with another bottle of prestone cleaner and then be all set. I have the three remaining hoses to change under intake manifold, one long skinny U shaped one and two 5/8 90 degree ones. Going to finish that next weekend along with change trans fluid and change rearend gear oil.

[in2fords]

That's looking good. Im going the other way, my car is a auto d Im swapping in a 5 speed BUT I have manual brakes and need to reuse my manual brake pedal. Atleast it will match the Svo Sails ad 2.3T I have going in the car :)

[SnakePlisskin]

That's looking good. Im going the other way, my car is a auto d Im swapping in a 5 speed BUT I have manual brakes and need to reuse my manual brake pedal. Atleast it will match the Svo Sails ad 2.3T I have going in the car :)

Thanks In2fords!

[SnakePlisskin]

Update time as I been slacking this past week, but work on SVO continues! Last weekend I changed the last of the hoses, the three under the intake and the two heater hoses. Also did the plugs and the old ones looked good with even coloring, but gap was near .45, so gapped new ones to .30. I did get the new headlight switch like Mike suggested and the foglights worked for a bit, but on Sunday a friend came by to check out the svo and the damn fogs wouldn't come on! grrr. I have another headlight switch coming, if this one craps out also I'm going to wire it up myself.
This weekend I'm changing fluids, oil. trans and rear and then off to dmv sometime during next week! Enjoy the pics!

[SnakePlisskin]

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Those hoses, oh what a PIA! Got a buddy on my fender! Proof the fogs were working!

[SnakePlisskin]

Those hoses were more bloated than a dead possum on side of the road in july!

[MikeFleming]

Is that a "Silence of the Lambs" moth?

[SnakePlisskin]

Haha, maybe Mike it was friggin huge!

[SnakePlisskin]

Good news the fogs work again!! Turns out it wasn't the new headlight switch, which was bad, I picked uo another one today from pep boys, installed it and no fogs. So I started wiggling wires at the headlight switch and then the wires behind the foglight switch. Walla!! So morale of the story is if it doesn't work, just start grabbing wires!! Damn old cars,haha!

Changed oil/filter also and drained trans, fluid was so so looking, kinda worn and more orangy/brown than bright red, it was due. Had a very minor seepage where tailhousing bolts on, so I did a light skim coat of sealer there and letting it cure overnight and then I'll fill it tomorrow. Rearend gear oil change also tomorrow.

[SnakePlisskin]

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THEY LIVE!! Driver's side fog is dimmer than right one, so I'm thinking ground is sketchy. At least they're working!

[SnakePlisskin]

And the giant oil stain was there when I moved in,haha! My SVO leaks zero engine oil, was just some light grime underneath, I wiped down entire engine and trans. I was pretty impressed how clean it was underneath. I'll get some pics while it's up in the air and post em up this weekend.

[SnakePlisskin]

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Just came in, my new pair repro inner lights. Great quality, just like originals. Guy on ebay has them, $95 pair free shipping. He has more if anyone needs them. He also has singles for $55. If anyone needs his username let me know, cheers!

[SnakePlisskin]

Filled up the rear yesterday, so all fluids finally done! Started mess with inner parking lights, damn hidden screws! Headind down now to continue tinkering. Pics later on!

[JTurbo]

Just watch out with the inner repros. The glue used to hold the lens to the housing had a tendency to let go.... After you mount them, give a tug on the lens to make sure they are good and tight.

If it does pop off, clean both mating surfaces and use a good epoxy or glue.

[SnakePlisskin]

Hi JTurbo, I'll check them, but they look and seem tight. I had that problem with some 5.0 repro headlights once, had to reglue them. Thanks for the heads up!

[SnakePlisskin]

Lots of pics tomorrow night, I have to resize them. Got a lot done today, new lights installed, New repro front inner passenger seat belt reciever installed, my original one was half gone, fixed drivers door moulding, it was lifted about an inch on the backend, reglued it. Had to unbolt the passenger seat and raise it up so I could get a straight shot with the torx bit socket/ratchet on the seatbelt bolt, so I vacuumed and cleaned the carpet on that side front and back while I was in there.

[SnakePlisskin]

Finally! I went to DMV this morning and registered my car for a buck! Well temp reggie good for 30 days, haha. I'll go back for the plates in a couple weeks. I drove it to work and it drives fantastic, a lot of fun! The VP of our online parts store loves the svo, he's never seen a white one or knew Ford ever made them in white. The rear shocks seem a bit tired, a little bouncy in the rear, so shocks will be on the list for the near future.

So next I'll be working on the paint before the shelby bash and 50th. Also picked up a RH NOS headlight and got that installed.

[SnakePlisskin]

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Some under car pics.

[SnakePlisskin]

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New seatbelt sleeve, NOS headlight, inners installed.

[SnakePlisskin]

I'm Back!!!!!!!!!!! The heat is finally gone in the desert and I'll be resuming my SVO work. I stopped working on it sometime in June and I managed to get all the charcoal trim painted over to the trim black which looks much better on a white SVO. I have the rear bumper trim, rear glass trim and taillights to still do. I'll be ordering new W/S for the doors soon and drivers power door lock actuator.

[SnakePlisskin]

Merry Christmas to everyone! Been working on the svo most every weekend and all paint touch up is done on the hatch, rear window mouldings done and reinstalled and am now touching up the wing and a fresh coat of paint. That should be done today and then reinstall. I have all new w/s in hand for the doors/windows and a new door lock solenoid for driver door. I'll be digging into that next couple of days.

[FoxBuddy]

Plugging away, that's great! Where did you pick up a windshield from? Is it a Carlite?

[SnakePlisskin]

Hi Darran, no windshield yet, but that will be done soon enough. Wing/spoiler back on and put some new monroe shocks in the back for now. It was way to bouncy, beat konis, one was leaking oil for how long who knows. Plans are to drive it to scottsdale for barrett jackson in a few weeks. Started w/s replacement, passenger door is first to be done.I'll have that one done sunday and then start drivers door. I'll snap some pics also for you guys.

[SnakePlisskin]

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Pics of new w/s install. Got passenger side all done and installed, it came out nice! Now I can get windows tinted in near future. Drivers side will be done later in the week with four more days off of work for new years. Pics of back of car with new emblems and wing painted. Taillights still need to be done, I will leave them charcoal to break up the black.

[Chalky]

Looking really good!!! What size rivets did you use for the dew wipes???

[SnakePlisskin]

Thanks Chalky! They're actually really short phillips head screws. They're just long enough to go through and not hang up on the door. Looks like I'll be going out for a spin tomorrow night, I'll have drivers door finished friday.

[nysvo]

Nice looking 9L. Always wanted a white one. Keep up the progress. PS. I heard you from around these parts. Nice to see another former NYER on here.

[SnakePlisskin]

Thanks nysvo! Yes I lived most of my life in poughkeepsie. Been in vegas almost 6 years now. Don't miss the winter one bit!

[nysvo]

You were smart.

[SnakePlisskin]

Haha yes sir!

[SnakePlisskin]

Update from my SVO run to Scottsdale for Barrett Jackson auction last weekend. All I can say is the car ran fantastic!! 75-80mph the whole way and still got 25 MPG. Worst thing that happened was I lost the radio about an hour from getting there. Fuses were all good, so it's probably the glass inline one behind the stereo. I have to peek under there this weekend. Idle was good at times at 1000rpm, but it still will fluctuate. Working on that this weekend also.

I did have the windows tinted last week and it looks very sharp, pictures to come soon. The car could use a bump steer kit since it's been lowered. Topic coming in tech section.

[SnakePlisskin]

Before I forget, a 6 speed and cruise control would really be the shit in these cars.:)

[baltimucho]

Before I forget, a 6 speed and cruise control would really be the shit in these cars.:)

Put a T56 6 Speed Behind your Ford 2300 (http://www.ndperformance.com/how_to/2300_t56/index.html)

::m::

[SVOC]

LOVE IT

[SnakePlisskin]

Fixed radio this weekend and fixed foglights also. Yanked the console as Mike suggested, comes out in mere minutes, haha. Radio just popped a fuse as I thought, one off the stereo hot wire. Foglight connector on the harness was slightly melted and disfigured, so I swapped it with the octane connector, same one.

[SnakePlisskin]

status report. I changed IAC valve and idle is much better, idles about 1000-1100rpm which is fine with me! Going to have my hood painted in the near future, my efforts at making it look better failed, oh well, I was never much of a paint and bodyman anyway.

[MikeFleming]

I was never much of a paint and bodyman anyway. Learn proper technique for the kind of paint being used, then Practice, Practice, Practice and then some more Practice.

[SnakePlisskin]

Mike, I never liked doing bodywork, just not my thing. Anything mechanical though is no problem.

[MikeFleming]

Technically Painting is NOT body work. Although prepping for paint can often involve body work.

But I get your point. I prefer to pay folks that are good at body/paint instead of doing it myself. I do like to take stuff off and put it back on after paint.