Break in oil

[k98dave]

Any recommendations on new engine break in oil? (new rings/bearings but with a roller cam) or will any good Syn oil with ZDDP work?

[rodster]

When I was doing my research on oil for my SVO I came across Brad Penn oil and have since heard good things about it. Pretty sure you want to use some type of break in oil as they contain more zinc and phosphorus then you will find in a syn oil w/ ZDDP.

Of course I'm not an expert, just passing along what I've gathered from my research.

http://www.penngrade1.com/products/High-Performance/Break-In-Oil.aspx

[k98dave]

ZDDP is a high concentrate of zinc & phosphorus additive intended mainly for older cars with flat tappet cams. It was intended to be used with every oil change as opposed to "break in oils" that are run for a limited number of miles. Since I'm using a roller, cam lobe break in isn't a concern.
As for everyday oil, Penzoil Ultra shows to be the best syn oil passing all the graded testing with very high marks, bests every oil in testing

[rodster]

Do you have any specs on the Pennzoil Ultra?

I decided to use Shell Rotella 15w-40 after finding it had a higher zinc/phosphorus levels then most of the other oils commonly available.

[k98dave]

Film strength test parameters:

The higher the psi result, the higher the “Load carrying capacity/Film strength”, and the better the oil is at preventing wear
Over 90,000 psi = OUTSTANDING protection

• 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD protection

• 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODEST protection

• Below 60,000 psi = UNDESIRABLE protection

Top 5

1. 5W30 (http://www.bizrate.com/5w30/index__af_assettype_id--4__af_creative_id--3__af_id--[AFF-ID]__af_placement_id--[AFF-PLACEMENT-ID].html) Pennzoil Ultra, API SM = 115,612 psi
2. 10W30 Lucas Racing Only = 106,505 psi
3. 5W30 (http://www.bizrate.com/5w30/index__af_assettype_id--4__af_creative_id--3__af_id--[AFF-ID]__af_placement_id--[AFF-PLACEMENT-ID].html) Mobil 1, API SN = 105,875 psi
4. 0W30 Amsoil Signature Series 25,000 miles, API SN = 105,008 psi
5. 10W30 Valvoline NSL (Not Street Legal) Conventional Racing Oil = 103,846 psi

Modest 5
1 5W30 Royal Purple XPR (Extreme Performance Racing) = 74,860 psi
2Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (http://viglink.pgpartner.com/rd.php?r=5316&m=1396456871&q=n&rdgt=1390154496&it=1390327296&et=1390759296&priceret=6.99&pg=~~3&k=b7a7a85ba5cbd0b349eaffc127221c60&source=feed&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eamazon%2Ecom%2Fdp%2FB002EB7URY%2Fref% 3Dasc%5Fdf%5FB002EB7URY2794232%3Fsmid%3DA2IS69AN9A0OWP%26tag %3Dpgmp%2D46%2D01%2D20%26linkCode%3Dasn%26creative%3D395109% 26creativeASIN%3DB002EB7URY&st=feed&mt=~~~~~~~~n~~~) Nitro 70 Racing Oil (semi-synthetic) = 72,003 psi
3 0W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,377 psi
415W50 Mobil 1, API SN = 70,235 psi
510W30 Royal Purple HPS (High Performance Street) = 66,211 psi

[MikeFleming]

While all of the above is interesting info, what does it have to do with run-in oil?

All you're interested in is keeping the engine clean while the few items that need to run-in or wear to spec are properly lubricated. Rings to cylinder walls being the most important (note the top ring spends most of its life with no oil). Then dump it (the oil) to remove all that new fallen-off residue. All while never doing full power runs where the above numbers might be more applicable.

You don't need much ZDDP with a roller cam - maybe some for the distributor/countershaft gears but that's about it.

Stay away from all "Racing" oils for street cars. Most racing oil is intended to be used for that one glorious day and then drained and tossed. Street oils - oils that are intended to be left in an engine for many months and thousands of miles - have things like anti-oxidants and corrosion inhibitors hat don't usually come in "racing" oils.

One main advantage to using synthetics is their superior resistance to breaking down (sustaining damage) at elevated temps and to last longer against oxidation while keeping various combustion byproducts (water, fuel, etc.) in suspension longer. NONE of which is needed in a run-in oil.

[k98dave]

While all of the above is interesting info, what does it have to do with run-in oil?

It doesn't, Rodster asked for info on Pennzoil Ultra testing

[MikeFleming]

DOH! My bad.

[fastsvo]

I'm surprised to see the oil I use (Mobil 1 15W-50) is rated on the lower side. :(

[TheSVOTrust]

If the block has been machined, vatted or put an an abrasive cabinet at a shop ................................CHANGE the brake in oil 3 times during the run in (first hour, second heat cycle and first 300 miles). Not my formula - Junior Johnsons. Mark

[SnakePlisskin]

If engine is a roller cam, I would always use regular 10-40w for breakin, I wouldn't use any synthetic, not needed, a large waste of money. Flat tappet cam use the shell rotella 15-40w. I've seen cams wiped out because the wrong regular oil was used, no zinc.

[Bob Holmes]

For the OP, we've use oil labeled as break-in oil. Just about all the "motorsports" oils have break-in oil.

Due to the fact that I have a bunch of Amsoil's on hand, left over from our EMC efforts, that's what I'm currently using.

[brsvo]

Speaking of Rotellla T I have seen they changed the weights and labeling so I wonder if its still the oil of choice?? I used it regularly before but have my doubts now.

[rodster]

Speaking of Rotellla T I have seen they changed the weights and labeling so I wonder if its still the oil of choice?? I used it regularly before but have my doubts now.

I called Shell a few weeks back and they said any of the Rotella multi grade oils have the higher zinc/phos. You could give them a call about the new weights and see what they have to say. I found them to be very knowledgeable.

[Ford Builder]

I run Rotella in my cars .

[rodster]

I run Rotella in my cars .

15w-40?

[Ford Builder]

Sorry 10X30 grade