Crower sportsman rods

[brsvo]

I am gathering the pieces for my bottom end rebuild and the rods came today! They are Crower sportsman rods and upon inspection I noticed they don't have the oil squirter hole that the stock ones have. I called Crower and they told me the hole is there so my Pinto would go 120,000 miles and real race engines don't need them as they only make the rod weaker. I also noticed they removed most of the Forge flash or die seam but not all of it. I am torn if I should polish the rest off or leave it alone.
I like that they come with ARP bolts!

6383638463856386

[MikeFleming]

Yes, the Sportsman rods do not have bore splash holes - the splash oil comes from the rod side clearance on the crank pin.

If you decide to remove any remaining casting flash and/or machining marks be sure to re-shot-peen the rods to even out (install) the surface stresses. You should also keep the weights tha same on large and small ends.

[brsvo]

Judging by the Red Barron 4 pics you just left yours alone? The shot peening is like a case hardening correct? I really don't plan on spinning that fast but I do like the idea of rather safe than sorry.

[MikeFleming]

Judging by the Red Barron 4 pics you just left yours alone? The shot peening is like a case hardening correct? I really don't plan on spinning that fast but I do like the idea of rather safe than sorry. Yes, I did not do any more work to the rods in the RB 2.5L engine other than measure and verify stuff.

Sanding/grinding on stuff puts mechanical stresses on the areas by literally tearing off molecules. And small machining marks are what lead to fracture points. For example ceramics used in ballistic armor cannot be machined - they must be used as-cast and sintered (fired). Any machining introduces surface stresses that will lead to failure points.

Some metals can be worked-hardened, or compacted, which imparts new stresses in the surface areas and makes them stronger. Forgings versus castings are the perfect example of work-hardening. Copper is also a perfect example of a work-hardenable metal. Anneal it and it's very soft, almost like butter. Bend it a few times back and forth and it gets stronger with each bend.

Shot peening usually uses a very small hard steel ball, say 0.040" diameter, and is used to impact all surfaces (except the pin bushing and rod bearing finish-machined areas) and it adds mechanical stresses in the surfaces. One of the benefits to this is that it removed any variable remaining stresses that machining left behind.

Some reading material:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shot_peening

https://www.google.com/search?q=shot+peening&num=30&lr=&hl=en&as_qdr=all&site=webhp&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=4yUGU8fFHpPqoASxsYKgAw&ved=0CDkQsAQ&biw=1040&bih=703

(https://www.google.com/search?q=shot+peening&num=30&lr=&hl=en&as_qdr=all&site=webhp&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=4yUGU8fFHpPqoASxsYKgAw&ved=0CDkQsAQ&biw=1040&bih=703)http://www.metalimprovement.com/shot_peening.php

[brsvo]

Interesting reading! Thanks, Bruce

[brsvo]

After reading the paperwork with the rods I have concluded I didn't get any rod bolt assembly lube. Do I need the fancy ARP 90894? I know I have to figure out the bolt stretch and what torque gets it there.

[MikeFleming]

A couple issues.

1) Get some Loctite Heqavy Duty Anti-Seize (2400F) paste:

Such as:
http://www.zorotools.com/g/00055696/k-G1704333?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&kw={keyword}&gclid=CPuB9ezY4rwCFRSUfgodxWEAEw

http://www.zorotools.com/g/00055696/k-G0453765?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&kw={keyword}&gclid=CKzC_7fY4rwCFRSFfgodyEAACQ

2) The standard bolts that come with the Crower Sportsman rods do not have centering holes on the threaded end - so you'd have to machine them into the bolts in order to measure bolt stretch.

2a) Since there are no centering holes on those bolts, Crower does not specify the desired amount of stretch. They only specify torque, with lube, which is 45 Ft-Lbs iirc.

I used the above Loctite HD A/S in my build.

http://www.svocop.com/forum/showthread.php?1821-Creation-of-the-Red-Baron-Phase-4-Power&p=15523&viewfull=1#post15523

[brsvo]

My rod bolts are center drilled in both ends. I however have no gauge for this procedure. If I mic the bolt on the machined ends will this be close enough? They also specify ARP bolt assembly lube but if I get the stretch right with anti seize it should be correct right? My Rods came with a Crower Rod Spec card and instructions to put the rod in a vise with soft jaws and torque till the bolt stretch is within spec. Then finish using the torque found to work for the rest of the installation.

[MikeFleming]

So you need to borrow a stretch gauge? I've got one around here somewhere.

The way I've used them is to install the bolt into the rod (on the crank, for example) and set gauge zero, then tighten in 10 ft-lb steps (between the two bolts) until the desired stretch is reached. Repeat for next bolt set. Using lube just means the amount of torque is lower to reach the same stretch level.

I've always used a long box end wrench (sometimes with a gloved hand) on the end of the bolt head with the measuring tool in place to get to final stretch versus taking the measuring tool off each time then twisting it 10 more degrees and measuring again. We're talking a few tenth-thousands of an inch for the acceptable range of stretch here.

Remind me tomorrow eve to look for the tool.

[brsvo]

OK so I don't need the fancy ARP lube. I haven't seen a stretch gauge but can picture it. If its what I picture you can't have it installed and use a torque wrench at the same time thus the box wrench?

[MikeFleming]

If its what I picture you can't have it installed and use a torque wrench at the same time thus the box wrench? Not with the gauge installed - hence the box wrench. You have to take the gauge off to use a socket. The one I have has a very strong spring in it.

https://www.google.com/search?q=rod+bolt+stretch+gauge&num=30&lr=&hl=en&as_qdr=all&site=webhp&tbm=isch&imgil=sJZWMvkPGiAEiM%253A%253Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fencrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com%252Fimages%253Fq%253Dtbn%253AANd9GcSUNbbX_d yvLj1l_rdPIiI9vB3_ytkBpg_NjatHArYNhxHtrFfT%253B1000%253B750% 253BPnGLCIkeURxseM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fhonda-tech.com%25252Fshowthread.php%25253Fp%2525253D38971802&source=iu&usg=__K7K4ue7SSY4zHHYR1anF9X1r9pM%3D&sa=X&ei=jHELU-S4G4PdoASD-4K4CQ&ved=0CEkQ9QEwAg&biw=1039&bih=703#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=sJZWMvkPGiAEiM%253A%3BPnGLCIkeURxseM%3Bhttp%253A%252F% 252Fwww.theoldone.com%252Farticles%252Fbadtothebone%252Frod_ bolt_stretch.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fhonda-tech.com%252Fshowthread.php%253Fp%253D38971802%3B1000%3B750

[brsvo]

Exactly what I pictured. The stretch spec is from.005" to .007". It would be the right way to do it! Can I borrow it?

[MikeFleming]

^
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