Ignition help?

[stockman1]

6404
Measured resistance on my coil. Looks OEM.

Across small leads .8 ohm
across small lead and coil wire stud 35k ohms.

I think that is out of range? Please help?

[stockman1]

R&R coil due to high resistance, part was OEM. Car runs better at idle and under load but still exhibits intermittent power. Whats next? TFI looks original, how do I remove and test it? Car has 39k miles what was the tune up interval for these parts?

[dan84svo]

here ya go:

http://www.myo-p.com/Ford-EEC/EEC%20Help%20files/Files/TFI%20test%20and%20troubleshooting.html

[MikeFleming]

IMHO, if you even suspect the ignition coil is bad. replace it with a known good or new one. They're cheap and very easy to R&R.

[dan84svo]

sorry, I guess you were looking for more than test info. Easiest way to do TFI is to pull the distributor. Mine had torx head screws so I didn't need a special socket like others have said. I had a 7/32 socket ready to grind down to fit. Another link:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8038ebec

[MikeFleming]

Stockman - BTW, from looking at the pic in post 1, your car is upside down.

[stockman1]

Stockman - BTW, from looking at the pic in post 1, your car is upside down.yes Mike I don't find it challenging enough to work on old cars, so I always invert them. Besides that I am left handed too
:confused:btw how do i right the pic?

[stockman1]

sorry, I guess you were looking for more than test info. Easiest way to do TFI is to pull the distributor. Mine had torx head screws so I didn't need a special socket like others have said. I had a 7/32 socket ready to grind down to fit. Another link:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8038ebecgoing to remove and test TFI tomorrow. It looks original

[MikeFleming]

:confused:btw how do i right the pic? There's kinda some magic involved. Let me see what I can muster up here.

[stockman1]

There's kinda some magic involved. Let me see what I can muster up here.the pics seem right when i post them?

[MikeFleming]

Is your monitor upsidedown?

[stockman1]

I was going to test the TFI today. Went to NAPA and bought a new TFI and the tool. Realized that I could only reach the aft fastener in the TFI without turning or removal of the distributor. It started to rain (Daytona 500 rained out too). Can someone post a pic of the location of the hold down bolt for the distributor and its size? Also I see that Cardone makes a distributor with the electronics (TFI, PIP) already mounted. Any opinion on buying the assembly vs. just changing out the TFI on my dizzy if it tests bad?

[dan84svo]

It's cramped, but pull the alternator up and out of the way. Then use a short combo wrench, or a crows foot socket if you have one. I can't remember right now if it was 17mm or 5/8 on the dist hold down, but it's not that bad to pull the dist. Make sure you have things lined up TDC on compression before you pull the dist. and make some reference marks where things lined up before you pull the dist. Believe me, it will make things a lot easier when it goes back together and you are not a tooth off. Pulling the dist. apart to change the PIP and TFI is no big deal, if it were me I would rebuild rather than replace. Plenty or reference material online to guide you through any snags.

[MikeFleming]

^
Factory bolt is a 10x1.5mm thread with a 17mm hex head.

[Robertosvo]

I would not get the new distributor putting a new one in puts your aux shaft gear at risk for failure.

[MikeFleming]

Or replace the aux shaft with a NOS one at the same time.

[stockman1]

ok gang I am stumped? New coil, and removed TFI today to test. As you can see in the PIC the contacts fell off upon removal. So no test just installed replacement part. Put car back together, set timing at 10 deg with computer out of loop, checked at 30 with computer in loop. Have somewhat better idle, but obvious miss. Started pulling plug wires at the DIZZY and hole 3 is dead. I got zapped so there is current. I pulled the plug out it looks ok but smells like gas. I tried another wire same thing. I put the compression gage on it and have over 120 PSI with 3 cranks. Could the PIP be bad, its the only old part? Getting really frustrated.........

[MikeFleming]

Swap injector #3 to a different hole and see if the problem follows it.

[stockman1]

Swap injector #3 to a different hole and see if the problem follows it.OY! Injectors are new within a year, is there an easy way to swap without intake removal or just measure the resistance to see if injector is bad?

[MikeFleming]

NOTW: "New" and "a year old" have no relationship to "good", other than owners desire.

It's slightly different access hand access between the in-line and square intake, but the procedure is the same. Remove the throttle cable from the TB, un-thread the EGR tube at the valve, pull off and move out of the way the upper intake manifold, then remove the fuel rail. Unplug the electrical connectors from two injectors, including #3, and swap the position of the two injectors.

Re-assemble in reverse order.

[stockman1]

I hear you, no easy way. Resistance check not a good method? Is it possible to manually turn motor and listen or injector valve opening and closing? Am I being lazy?

[MikeFleming]

A resistance check generally will only show an open coil or high vs low impedance. It won't measure the volume or spray pattern, or indicate if it's plugged or blocked open due to dirt.

Kinda like measuring air pressure in a tyre won't tell you tread depth, sidewall cracking, balance, fabric exposure, winter/summer use, etc.

Yep, you're gonna have to do the work. No easy way out now.

[stockman1]

A resistance check generally will only show an open coil or high vs low impedance. It won't measure the volume or spray pattern, or indicate if it's plugged or blocked open due to dirt.

Kinda like measuring air pressure in a tyre won't tell you tread depth, sidewall cracking, balance, fabric exposure, winter/summer use, etc.

Yep, you're gonna have to do the work. No easy way out now.thanks red captain just needed that pep talk!

[stockman1]

stumped again? Didn't have time to do much tinkering today. Started the SVO and guess what it idled smooth with no miss? Let it warm up until the electric fan cycled. Got out a long screwdriver and touched it to all 4 injectors, all were chattering about the same frequency. I took the SVO for a 15 minute ride while warm. Made good power no miss and on the way back she started hesitating and missing bad. When I pulled in the drive the engine was bouncing at idle with a steady miss. I believe that Cylinder #3 still the culprit. Any ideas or suggestions welcomed?

[stockman1]

I checked plug wire resistance today, they are in the 7000+ ohm range, I think that is ok?

Ordered Magnecor wires today.

Started car up it ran a bit rough but not as bad as when I shut her off 2 days ago. I disconnected the #3 injector plug with it running and then reconnected the pug and the car smoothed right out. Took my little car for a long drive, this is the best its ever run. Electrical gremlins?? Bad injector?? IDK??

Can you guys point me in the direction of a quality injector set or someplace that can reman my orig. brown tops?

[brsvo]

I would guess wire contact issues or broken wire in the circuit. Clean the connectors real well and then if it happens again wiggle the wires to the suspect injector. There is a way to do a wiggle test on the wiring with the ECU but I have never done it myself. I have seen where the wire end has pushed back partway out of the plug itself you might check that.