Engine rebuild starting

[k98dave]

Well after a long delay to find a good cylinder head (Thanks Mitch) looks like the eng rebuild is on.
Block came back from machine shop and all parts are ready to go including rebuilt turbo and NOS E6 manifold.
Stock rebuild with the exception of roller set up from a low mile 93 Fox

I'll post pictures as it progresses.

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[Meotchh]

Cool Dave! You avoided the ban by posting pics!

I'm glad the head worked out for you. We expect to see more build pics & video of it running.:like2:

[k98dave]

You bet! We will be starting to but it back together Monday.

Also I think I posted previously about the new WD40 Rust busting spray in the black & silver can but can't say enough about how good this stuff works. Every nut/bolt on the engine, exhaust manifold to turbo, even the egr tube came off with no problems!
If you don't want to mess with acetone/atf brew this is the stuff to use.

[SnakePlisskin]

Oh goody an engine build to follow! good luck as you get started!

[brsvo]

Looks like my kitchen! I'm waiting on my pistons and machine work. Who rebuilt your turbo?
6405

[k98dave]

Looks like my kitchen! I'm waiting on my pistons and machine work. Who rebuilt your turbo?

I used Majestic Turbo in Irving TX. Highly recommended by the local Porsche club guys running the 911 T's and also lots of rice burning types running turbo drag cars.

[Meotchh]

I used Majestic Turbo in Irving TX. Highly recommended by the local Porsche club guys running the 911 T's and also lots of rice burning types running turbo drag cars.
Is this their website: http://majesticturbo.com/

[k98dave]

No that's MTW Majestic Turbo Waco.

This shop doesn't have a web site. They are in Irving Tx outside Dallas.

E mail is turbomike39@netzero.com
1000 S. Wildwood Suite 10
Irving, TX 75060
(800) 2973626

[SnakePlisskin]

Dave, can you do me a favor since your block/engine is out of the car? There should be block drain plugs on one side or both sides of the block, I need to know where they are so I can drain mine fully. They should be a hex type or allen head type pipe plug, usually one on each side, at least that's how the 5.0 engines are. They will be right above where the oil pan bolts up on the block. Thanks!

[MikeFleming]

The drain hole on the right (starter motor) side is just above the starter motor. If your engine has a coolant-fed turbo, it's the hole where the coolant hose nipple is.

[k98dave]

Well hit a big snag! The crank seal cover from my original motor was broken when pulling the belt gear. I had one from a 93 2.3 but discovered the bolt pattern to block only matches 3 of the 4 holes and only has 2 bolt holes for the oil pan instead of 4. I sent PM's to see if anyone has one.

[Meotchh]

Oh, I wasn't sure what you were asking for, I thought you were asking about the timing cover:confused:. I might have an extra crank seal cover.

[SnakePlisskin]

Ok Mike, is that the only block drain, anything on driver's side of block? Thanks!

[Cruzen]

Hi Dave - looking to pull out engine for the first time on my car to rebuild or get rebuild. Based on your engine bay picture, I don't see many disconnected wires and hoses connecting to the engine. Am I correct? Also, how long did it take you to pull the engine out? Any suggestion is appreciated. Thanks and can't wait to see picture of your completed engine.

[k98dave]

The picture doesn't show the small details but everything has to be disconnected, all wiring, fuel lines, cooling hoses etc. The A/C and P/S can be removed from the engine but you don't have to break the A/C or P/S lines. They are moved out of the way and tied up.

My buddy has a shop and he a long time Ford & Mustang guy so took us about 2 hrs but that included a good amount of shop talk & coffee break. If you never pulled one before you might want to consider recruiting some assistance from someone that has.

[k98dave]

Oh, I wasn't sure what you were asking for, I thought you were asking about the timing cover:confused:. I might have an extra crank seal cover.
Thanks Mitch,

Let me know as soon as you can.

[k98dave]

Ok Mike, is that the only block drain, anything on driver's side of block? Thanks!

Nothing on the DS other than the coolant sensor which is up too high to drain. The plug above the starter will empty the block.6433

[baltimucho]

Holy crap! Did you get your block chromed?! HA!

[Cruzen]

The picture doesn't show the small details but everything has to be disconnected, all wiring, fuel lines, cooling hoses etc. The A/C and P/S can be removed from the engine but you don't have to break the A/C or P/S lines. They are moved out of the way and tied up.

My buddy has a shop and he a long time Ford & Mustang guy so took us about 2 hrs but that included a good amount of shop talk & coffee break. If you never pulled one before you might want to consider recruiting some assistance from someone that has.

Understood. I was imagining tons of cables and hoses. Yes, will find someone with experience pulling the motor out as well as putting it in.

The block looks great by the way.

Thanks

[k98dave]

"Holy crap! Did you get your block chromed?! HA!"

This was a picture right after it was scrubbed before painting it Ford grey. Looks more like battle ship grey to me but still looks good. I'll post more pictures tomorrow. Also found a old 2.3 block in the back if the shop that we forgot about so got a good crank seal cover off it and started the build again.

[TheSVOTrust]

OK Glad you posted that ! I had two sitting here if you needed them. Mitch said you might call. Mark

[k98dave]

Understood. I was imagining tons of cables and hoses. Yes, will find someone with experience pulling the motor out as well as putting it in.

The block looks great by the way.

Thanks

Take pictures of everything before you start, then bag & tag all hardware as to where it came from. Doing that along with pictures will be a great help.

[dznj]

Also as you remove bolts, if possible put them back where they came from. Bag and tag anything that can't be screwed in. Having someone who has done it before is a HUGE help. The motor can come out in a couple hours with experience.

D

[Cruzen]

Also as you remove bolts, if possible put them back where they came from. Bag and tag anything that can't be screwed in. Having someone who has done it before is a HUGE help. The motor can come out in a couple hours with experience.

D


Suggestions/recommendations greatly appreciated. Thank you!

[k98dave]

Moving right along. Can't seem to get pictures in the right order but its in the car. Should finish up and switch it on sometime tomorrow.


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[FoxBuddy]

Moving right along...its in the car.

Wow, you aren't kidding, that's quick!

I was wondering what, if any, extra head work you did. Valve job, porting etc.? I know you were looking for a head a while back and thought you got a stock replacement.

I like the details! :p

[k98dave]

Yes its a stock head, no port work. Machine shop installed new exhaust valve seats, valves, and NOS springs. Roller cam set up was from a 2.3 93 Fox that had 40K miles.
I can't take credit for most of the work. The shop here is owned by a good friend who has built many many 2.3's as he used to run them in dirt track cars.

[Cruzen]

Looking good!!!

[Chalky]

nice work!!!!

[MikeFleming]

Can't seem to get pictures in the right order but its in the car. If you place the pics "in-line", you can easily drag/drop them where you want them in the post.

From the Advanced editing screen, click on the down arrow next to the paper clip icon. Then select "All". The pics will all be inserted where the cursor is presently (so position it first!). Then you can drag/drop pics where you want them, in the desired order and/or with text in-between. Use Preview Post until you get it right.

Don't know if you can still edit the first post - if not, let me know (via PM) the desired order and I'll move them - in my copious free time.

[k98dave]

Well got it in the car and all buttoned up this afternoon. Started on the first try but had to shut it down after a min or so due to a fuel leak from # 4 injector. Its leaking from the body of the injector itself. These were the original green tops but had new O rings/hats installed.

So need to find a replacement (single or all 4) PM if you have any to sell.

[TheSVOTrust]

Will mail an injector tomorrow - remember let me know about 800 call.

[k98dave]

PM sent


Will mail an injector tomorrow - remember let me know about 800 call.

[k98dave]

Ok its all done less final adjustments which leads me to the following:
Found this article is the resetting the IAC base idle and adjusting the Throttle Position Sensor on 2.3 Turbo Coupe
Is this the right way to do the IAC base idle reset and TPS voltage


Adjustment Procedure

1 First bring the engine up to normal operating temperature


2 Turn the engine off and unplug the Idle Air Control connector from the IAC.


3 Start Engine and adjust throttle body screw to obtain the base idle to 700 – 800 RPM.


4 Shut off engine and probe the back of the TPS connector with the volt meter.


5 Adjust the TPS output voltage to under 1.0 volt. Most turbo cars like a TPS voltage to around .90 - .95 volts the best.


6 Re connect the Idle Air Control connector

7 Start the engine. The engine’s idle speed should settle in around 1000 RPM as the computer re maps the TPS/IAC.

[k98dave]

662566266627Ok All done, got the car home today...runs sweet...silky smooth.

All that engine clean up & nice paint work buried. Still may have an slight IAC issue as it hunts before idle comes down. But its the original so think i'll just stick a new one on. Are these that same for any 2.3?

[brsvo]

The only differences were in which way the plug points. I purchased 2 from Advance and they were both bad. Funny part was I put the old one back on so it would work (the only reason I bought new one was to make the engine look cleaner) I would take yours apart and just clean it.

[rodster]

Ok All done, got the car home today...runs sweet...silky smooth.



That was quick! Looking good. :cool:

[k98dave]

The only differences were in which way the plug points. I purchased 2 from Advance and they were both bad. Funny part was I put the old one back on so it would work (the only reason I bought new one was to make the engine look cleaner) I would take yours apart and just clean it.

I did take it apart and clean the body, plunger assy isn't sticky so my guess would be the drive motor is the problem but your right trying to find one with the 90 deg connector is the problem. Here is what it does, come of the hi way and idle only drops to around 2K. its trying to drop but it will drop to about 1800, then back up to 1900, then drop to say 1700, then back up to 1800, then drop to 1500, then up to 1600 etc etc until it finally comes down to 1k. I noticed if I give the throttle a quick stab then it will drop right down to 1k. I need to figure this out this out. The TPS is new (Motorcraft) part also

[dznj]

I did take it apart and clean the body, plunger assy isn't sticky so my guess would be the drive motor is the problem but your right trying to find one with the 90 deg connector is the problem. Here is what it does, come of the hi way and idle only drops to around 2K. its trying to drop but it will drop to about 1800, then back up to 1900, then drop to say 1700, then back up to 1800, then drop to 1500, then up to 1600 etc etc until it finally comes down to 1k. I noticed if I give the throttle a quick stab then it will drop right down to 1k. I need to figure this out this out. The TPS is new (Motorcraft) part also

Try to put a dab of grease on the ball where where throttle cable connects to the TB. If that gets 'sticky' you can have the same symptoms.

D

[Cruzen]

I did take it apart and clean the body, plunger assy isn't sticky so my guess would be the drive motor is the problem but your right trying to find one with the 90 deg connector is the problem. Here is what it does, come of the hi way and idle only drops to around 2K. its trying to drop but it will drop to about 1800, then back up to 1900, then drop to say 1700, then back up to 1800, then drop to 1500, then up to 1600 etc etc until it finally comes down to 1k. I noticed if I give the throttle a quick stab then it will drop right down to 1k. I need to figure this out this out. The TPS is new (Motorcraft) part also


I had a similar problem when I first bought mine. Thought it was the IAC or the TPS. Cleaned the IAC thoroughly and replaced the TPS. It helped a little bit. Cleaned the TB (took it apart and cleaned it with MAF cleaner) and that finally fixed my idle problem in my case.

[k98dave]

I had a similar problem when I first bought mine. Thought it was the IAC or the TPS. Cleaned the IAC thoroughly and replaced the TPS. It helped a little bit. Cleaned the TB (took it apart and cleaned it with MAF cleaner) and that finally fixed my idle problem in my case.


When the motor was rebuilt the T/B was cleaned as was the IAC. I cleaned it again but no improvement. Going to recheck the TPS. I know they can bind sometimes. Very frustrating having all this work done and it really isn't enjoyable to drive as it is now.

[brsvo]

My throttle body was worn to a point it did exactly what your talking about. If I opened the hood and closed it by hand it worked. I found the shaft hole was worn and it would cock or bind. Finally replaced it.

[k98dave]

The T/B is fine. Clean and not binding. The return to idle position is very positive from in the car or moving the T/B by hand. I going to get a new 02 and along with that re set the base idle and the TPS and see what it does. Other than this issue the car runs great. Changed oil/filter after first 50 miles yesterday.

[k98dave]

Ok, Got the new 02 and a new IAC as these were the only two items that I had not replaced during the rebuild. Then re set the base idle (750rpm) and the TPS to .96vdc after replacing the harness side TPS connector and wiring which was bad and falling apart.
Also found that with the exception of the color of the wires the connector from my old 02 sensor is the same as the harness side TPS connector. I marked the wires for future reference but everything worked out fine. So with that the engine rebuild is done and the car runs great.

[SnakePlisskin]

Nice job Dave, looks good!

[Meotchh]

Right on Dave! Thanks for the write up & of coarse the pics for those of us that don't read so well:p. I'm glad it's all back together & running well again. Just in time to enjoy the beginning of spring.

[k98dave]

"Just in time to enjoy the beginning of spring."

Yeah, and its actually going to feel like spring finally today. For a while there I thought I was still in NJ as cold winter temps went on way longer than usual around here. But at least we only had a couple of icy days to contend with.

[k98dave]

Got about 500 miles on the motor & turbo and did my 2nd oil change now and it runs really nice. Guess the ecu has relearned with the new IAC/TPS and wiring fix. I know some have said that the ford roller cam isn't good for power improvement but I'm not sure that's completely true. Although the orig cam was very worn so I don't have anything to compare to but, holding at about 2500 rpm in 2nd gear and if I stand on it the boost comes in quick and she breaks the rear tires loose for about 10 ft and pulls very nice right up to 5k. Same results in 3rd except the tires are hooked up. On the highway in 5th at 75 just squeeze the throttle and the boost comes in strong and she runs up to 100 nicely.
I'm sure there are hot cams out there but I'm happy with the results. Especially since the cam set up was a freeby!