Valve cover refresh

[brsvo]

Who has stripped their valve cover and repainted it? What products/procedures can you recommend?

[MikeFleming]

The BEST way to strip something for paint is media blasting. For metals I usually use alumina, which is the most aggressive media I have. Engine parts need some special attention to details and either prevention of media from getting to internal surfaces (unlikely) or complete dis-assembly and cleaning in multiple steps.

For the cam cover the internal baffles MUST be removed ot prevent any media from being trapped in there and to be able to clean behind the baffle plates. Early covers had them riveted in place while later ones use sheet metal screws. Remove hte rivits and tap the holes for screws.

If you're going to smooth surfaces, such as polishing the raised ridges/logos, you need to decide if you will do that before or after painting. If poliushing is done before painting, then clean all the surfaces as normal before paint and spray. Then wipe off the polished surfaces before the paint cures. Optionally spray it again with clear.

Be sure to use paints that will handle 350 F. Most PC paints work well on engine parts that do not see caustic fluids (brake fluid, for example).

[brsvo]

What is PC paint? Powder coat? I tried searching but got paint software programs for PC's.

[MikeFleming]

Yes, my abbreviation for Powder Coat is PC.

[in2fords]

I have done a few valve covers in wrinkle powder coat. I sand blast them. I use left over green sand from the sand blaster that shoots our cars for us. I redo the brushed aluminum look, I spray the powder on and wipe off the raised area and bake at 360 for 45 minutes. unfortunately with wrinkle colors I cant use clear coat on the bare aluminum. I'm currently doing an experiment on one, the finished product should be carbon fiber on the raised area and back chrome on the rest lets see how it looks...

[grntRUDD13]

If you are in a hurry, the high temp paint for patio grills will work. And holds up well against the chemicals. There are better options if you aren't pressed for time, like when you're supposed to be at a drive in car show the next day and realize you forgot about fixing up the valve cover and it looks horrible... That being said it still looks good so I haven't been motivated to pull it off and powdercoat it.

[dagenham]

I used the wrinkle paint that is made for engines by VHT iirc. Looks pretty good, and real close to stock.
If I where to strip a v/c, I think that baking soda would be my choice for blasting media. It leaves a nice smooth surface and does not require much prep from there.

[in2fords]

I don't think the baking soda would remove the original bake on stuff? I know it wont remove my PC, My sand blaster hates us when he gets some of our work in :)

[brsvo]

Well if I had it to do again I would not take the baffles out. The fluted rivets are almost .500" deep. I am going to have to weld up the holes and then drill and tap now! Maybe chemical stripper would be a better option.
What are the opinions about thread size and pitch as far as strength in aluminum and staying power? I don't want to have them come loose!!!

[in2fords]

my last set i didnt take the baffles out, just triple rinsed and used a ton of air in there. On the cover Im on now I will remove the rivets and simply use bolts the size of the holes now and not weld them up.

[MikeFleming]

Remember that cast aluminum needs coarse threads.

[brsvo]

Have you pulled the rivets yet? They are fluted on the outside and pretty deep. Someone told me they are rotational flutes but don't know if that's correct. I can't see how to get ahold of them to pull them. I ended up putting in Helicoils because the holes were too deep to weld properly. Mike thanks for the reply on thread pitch.