Spring Start-Up and Tune Up

[FoxBuddy]

Being new to SVO's and unfortunately having to store my car for many months over the winter I would like know if there are any precautions that need to be taken prior to start-up. Precautions, things to look and watch for kinds of things.

I need to also do full fluid swaps and tune up too. What are the recommended types, brands, viscosity, filters, wires, cap, rotor etc. that everyone recommends?


If I missed anything please add to the list.


Thanks

[18lbs]

Darran,

I know some guys would spin up the oil pump first, but I just crack the key and away it goes. I give it fresh oil before I put it away though.

[brsvo]

If you can get Ford tune up parts they are the best. As for the rest I like Valvoline oils. My car has run on 20/50 conventional oil since new. 168,000 miles later the bores were easily cleaned up with .010 over bore/hone!!! The original distributor gear and auxillary shaft gear are still intact. I also put the car away with a fresh oil change and do it again in the spring. Then I recycle the oil into the daily driver. As for brake fluid this is how much you drive or how hard you drive. If you do open track events you need to swap the brake fluid every event. Autocross the intervals vary by track but you may get a season out of it. I have been told not to use synthetic brake fluid unless you are racing and change it regularly .

[FoxBuddy]

Ford parts seem to be hard to find these days. Any recommendations for second choices?

[Raven855]

SVO LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS:


Antifreeze and Engine Coolant
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........11.1 quarts
Xerox GL5 antifreeze or Motorcraft Gold
Water should be derived from reverse Osmosis method
Engine Oil
All TEMPS......5W-30
Engine, without filter..........4.5 quarts
Add extra oil when replacing filter. After
refill check oil level.
Oil Drain Plug.....15-25 ft/lbs


Manual Transmission,T5 (5-SPD)......
All TEMPS......Mercon V
This specification has been updated from Mercon to Mercon V
per a Technical Service Bulletin from the manufacturer
T5 (5-SPD)..........5.1 pints
Fill Plug 15-25 ft/lbs
Drain Plug 15-25 ft/lbs


Limited Slip Differential, Rear......
All TEMPS......75W-90
Traction-Lok axles add 4oz of friction modifier Ford part No
XL-3 or equivalent formulated to meet Ford spec EST-M2C118-A.
Differential, Rear..........3.6 pints
Differential, With 8.8 RingGear Rear..........3.8 pints(not used on SVO)
Fill Plug 15-25 ft/lbs
Drain Plug 15-25 ft/lbs
Differential cover bolts 28-38 ft/lbs


Power Steering Fluid......
Mercon V
Brake Fluid.....
Brake Fluid DOT-3
Wheel Bearings
From the Ford Mustang Service Manual:


1. Raise vehicle until tires clear the floor.
2. Remove wheel cover. Remove grease cap from hub.
3. Wipe excess grease from the end of the spindle. Remove the cotter pin and nut retainer. Discard the cotter pin.
4. Loosen adjusting nut three turns. Rock wheel, hub, and rotor assembly in and out several times to push the brake shoe and linings away from the rotor.
5. While rotating the wheel, hub, and rotor assembly in a counterclockwise direction, tighten the adjusting nut to 17 - 25 ft-lb to seat the bearings.
6. Loosen the adjusting nut one-half turn, then retighten to 10 -28 in-lb, using an in-lb torque wrench.
7. Place the nut retainer on the adjusting nut, so the castellations on the retainer are in-line with the cotter pin hole in the spindle.
8. Install a new cotter pin, and bend the ends around the castellation flange of the nut retainer.
9. Check front wheel rotation. If the wheel rotates properly, install the grease cap and wheelcover. If rotation is noisy and rough, follow procedures under "Replacement and Lubrication.
10. Before driving the vehicle, pump the brake pedal several times to restore normal brake pedal travel.
WheelsTorque
85 foot lbs
Brake caliper
mounting bolts 40 ft/lbs
Bleeder 5 ft/lbs

Head Bolts
Torque first to 50#, then up to 90 foot lbs
Valve cover Gasket
F57Z-6584A
62-97 inch pounds
Spark Plugs
Autolite 764
Motorcraft
NGK
Aluminum head motorcraft AGSP32c
PCV valve
Motorcraft EV 127-a

This is just a short list of some spring and autocross prep I go through. I have posted Fords procedure for determining when to change your antifreeze by checking for electrolysis. Might do a quick search for that, but I will assume you are changing the antifreeze. I recommend you start flushing the coolant using Fords VC9, its a excellent product. Ford is recommending you use their long term antifreeze the Motorcraft Gold coolant. The Zerox GL5 meets Fords spec and contains way fewer silicants. Although the Ford Gold is a 5 year coolant they recommend 3 years max. The reason is the water. Ford uses water from reverse osmosis as it is the purest form of water and does not contain chlorine which is a major problem in the coolant system. NEVER mix different coolant types or brands! Also note that the change interval is not by when you put in the antifreeze but when the antifreeze was manufactured! It has a shelf life!
I use to use Mobil 1 oil but because of recent reports of quality I now use Royal Purple. I use 0W-20W oil with the motorcraft or wix filter. Fram filters are a know problem.
Motorcraft makes a synthetic Mercon that I use in the tranny and power steering that I like.
I use the Royal purple in the differential. Its a synthetic and I never add the Ford additive.
Ford makes some great racing brake fluid.
I use the Mobil 1 synthetic wheel bearing grease for the front wheels. It exceeds Fords spec for the grease in every catagory but the amount of Lithium it contains. Here's a quick article:








Feature Article from Hemmings Motor News
December, 2012 - Jim O'Clair


Non-synthetic greases are all about 90 percent mineral oil, but it is there where the similarity between types disappears. The various additives used to thicken the oils and make them adhere to bearings, bushings, axles and most any other moving part are why you find quite a few different alternatives when you walk to the shelf at your local auto parts store. These additional additives can enhance the lubrication properties of the mineral oil, and some additives work better in some environments than others. Just as you wouldn't use wheel-bearing grease to lubricate a meat slicer, the proper application of different greases is also important to maintaining your car.
Greases are rated by the National Lubricating Greases Institute, or NLGI. Institute ratings range from NLGI-000 through NLGI-6; however, NLGI-2 is the most likely specification you will find on automotive grease. You will also notice specifications in your owner's/repair manual for grease types; these are usually two-letter designations that specify what type of grease you should be using. Type LB is an industry standard for chassis grease used on tie-rod ends, ball joints, u-joints and control-arm shafts. This type of grease is not recommended for wheel bearings; acceptable greases for axle and wheel bearings carry a type GC designation. However, you can use greases rated GC-LB for both types of lubrication. Within wheel-bearing greases, some manufacturers have their own specifications. Ford recommends one type of grease specifically for disc-brake-equipped cars, while GM recommends one specifically for their disc brakes. Chrysler uses the same grease recommended for GM and Ford drum brakes. To find the correct lubricant for the Ford specification, look for M1C75B, lithium-based extreme-pressure grease rated to 275 degrees. GM disc brake bearings call for GM #1051195 or #1051344, made of a different lithium complex and rated to 400 degrees. The Chrysler specification is MS-3701, which is also rated for 275 degrees but contains more water-resistant additives than the Ford grease.

I use the Ford cap and rotor. I like the NGK iridiums for plugs and the Magnecore Wires.

[FoxBuddy]

That's a lot of good information. Thanks for typing all of that :) That gives me a great starting point!