'86 2R build thread. "Project tax return"

[SVOfish]

Took her for the last spin before the build. Engine is ready to pull now, hoping this Thursday if weather cooperates.

Cp pistons, stinger fmic, 3g upgrade, gutted/ported intake, walbro 255, bob log, 3" exhaust, garrett 50 trim, stinger p.I.m.p, adj cam gear, doing roller ranger for now until I have 2k for a no head. It's just going to be a street cruiser for now to take to the mustang club of kc cruise nights and such, Si hopefully this ranger cam with the cam gear will be good for now.

What it has now, k&n, gillis, adj fpr, pretty stock.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/06/aqasysam.jpg

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[brsvo]

Good looking car!

[rodster]

Man that's a clean looking car! Bonus points for RED. :) How many miles on it?

[SVOfish]

Hey rodster, I talked to you over on FEP. 75k on mine.

[ULcards99]

What kind of wheels are on it? Are they cobra? We have an '86 2R and I like those wheels a lot!

[SVOfish]

Those came off of a '95 cobra. I believe they came on 94-97 cobras maybe the 98??? But i thought the 98 had a 5 spoke that resembled the r wheels more. I could be wrong.

[SVOfish]

The cam has been previously converted to a roller. I'm having a hard time figuring out what it is or who made it. Only has "kw117" and a seperate larger "4" in between cam lobes. No markings front nor back. Need help figuring out what this thing is!!http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/06/ehe9e3a8.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/06/azagy6uq.jpg
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[MikeFleming]

The only for-sure way to id a cam profile is to assemble the head/block/rocker/cam belt/etc. - all assembled with proper rocker geometry - and install a dial indicator on the valve retainer, degree wheel on the crank snout and map it out. Then you will see the total lift, total duration, ramps, acceleration rates, etc.

Unless you have access to a cam lobe mapping machine. You will still need the appropriate rocker to get the final numbers though.

[SVOfish]

Update: engine was suppose to come out today. Rain all day is in the forecast. Looks like next week instead. Ugh

[Bob Holmes]

"project tax return"...gotta love it.

[SVOfish]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/20/usenu8eb.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/20/tyhe3a3u.jpg

Time for an update, got the engine out on a beautiful day. Going to the machine shop next week. Bottom end looks great, knew the rings were shot from.the leak down, and the top ring on cyl. 2 came off in 5 pieces. Sweet.

[MikeFleming]

... and the top ring on cyl. 2 came off in 5 pieces. Sweet. JB Weld??

[svono50]

Looking good, hopefully the machine shop doesn't find anything 'hidden' in there. BTW, I am surprised Mike didn't point out the matching RED dizzy rotor :confused:

Just a quick note on the Cobra wheels, as being a previous owner of a set, they were that style for 94-97. 94-95 versions had silver painted inserts and the 96-97 versions had the metallic charcoal painted inserts, which is very close to the color of our charcoal trim. Here is an example of what they look like on a 1C version SVO:

7161

[SVOfish]

Got most of the wiring fixed today. Stuck on a couple of things that someone hopefully can help me with.

There is a cut blue wire coming out of a connector on the Dr. Side. Same connector has the oil pressure sender wire and I'm not sure what the other 2 wire connector is. I need to know what the blue wire that is cut is for.
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Pic of blue wire cut. And the oil press. Sending wire and another 2 wire connector coming out of thevsame connector that the blue wire is cut on.

Also, the generator connector is melted, and the black/org tracer wire is showing copper. Any fixes for this? I'm sure finding a connector isn't that easy unless I find a donor.
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[svono50]

Certainly need to get that wiring fixed. Unfortunately I don't have my reference material with me, but I am sure Mike could quote it off the top of his head.

As for the alternator harness, that is pretty typical, you will likely see the plastic melted away from the blades inside the connector as well. Ford went way undersized for that lead and it shows. I would not even consider replacing it with another stock setup, it is marginal at best. Best bet is to upgrade to one of Pat's harnesses, that bypasses that connection, pretty easy install and much safer. I saw almost a 1.0V jump at my battery with Pat's wire upgrade, along with no more dimming of the lights/turn signals when sitting at idle at a light.

[SVOfish]

Thank you for the help. That's one thing taken care of, how do I go about aquiring one of these wire kits from pat? Yes, we will wait for mike to see if he can tell me what the cut blue wire is.

I've been looking at wiring diagrams on Mitchell and they are very limited and less than spectacular. Haven't found anything yet. I'm hoping mike or someone has some diagrams that are complete. Looks like Mitchell just has diagrams for things such as window, horn, wipers, etc.

[MikeFleming]

Blue nuts AND blue wires? Next they''re start making blue cars!

Not that sure on the 86 harness, but in that same ares is the engine coolant temp sender on the upper rear of the block (for the dash gauge, under the oil pressure take-off block) that uses the same push-on stud connector end as the oil pressure sender. And on the 86 there is the sump oil level sensor wire. There is also a push-on stud connector used on the starter solenoid, but I suspect that's in a different harness stub? Hard to tell without seeing the whole harness.

That 2-wire connector looks like it goes to the 2-wire cooling fan thermo switch that lives in the lower intake.

If I remember, I will check the 86 EVTM over the weekend in between watching races, drinking beer, and prepping the EVO for paint.

[MikeFleming]

I need to see more of the harness area to know were is is on the engine and car. There's not enough context in that pic above.

[SVOfish]

Mike could you post a picture of this cooling fan thermo switch? My intake does not have a place for it I'm afraid.

[SVOfish]

When I get home I will post better pictures.

[SVOfish]

Here's a couple of pictures to give you a better idea of the area. All of the pictures are of the same harness area. The two wire connector is one blk wire and one yel/red tracer wire ( old wiring, taking my best guess at colors) and the clip on wire is to the oil press send. Unit iirc its also a yel/red color of wire. That two wire connector and the sender clip on connector go into a grey connector, and that is where you see the blue wire that is cut, and then continues into the main harness on the Dr. Side. Hope this helps a little more. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/23/uhy6eta5.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/23/e6a9yzyp.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/23/2ebaruje.jpg
Pic above is a clear shot of the two wire connector, and the one wire sender clip on connector, that goes into the grey connector that shows the blue cut wire, then continues into the main harness.

[MikeFleming]

The 86 EVTM doesn't give much useful data. It does not show which connector comes from/goes to which harness. The "pictures" don't have wire colors or circuit numbers and the schematics (that have circuit numbers and wire colors) aren't connector or harness stub specific; they are by function only.

I will scan the pages and post later.

[SVOfish]

Thanks Mike, much appreciated!

[MikeFleming]

Some related EVTM pages.
7174
7173

7175
7176
7177

[SVOfish]

Low oil level sender? It comes out of the same harness and is a one wire. Could you find what color the low oil level Sender wire is? ,and what color the two wires on the cooling fan temp switch are? Think we are getting close

[SVOfish]

Answered my own question on the cooling fan switch, the only thing I am not finding is what color of wire the low oil level sender is. It doesn't appear to be in the wiring diagrams, but is clear as day shown on the last picture of sensors/senders that you posted mike.

[JTurbo]

I'll try to take a peek at mine tomorrow and let you know.....

[SVOfish]

I appreciate that! Thank you much

[MikeFleming]

My generic Mustang EVTM doesn't list an Oil Level Sensor circuit for the SVO, it being a special breed amongst itself. It does show one for the 6/8 cyl models as circuit 258 using a wire labeled as DB/LG, which should translate to Dark Blue with Light Green (stripe or dash).

[SVOfish]

The wire that is cut on my car is DB, doesn't appear to have a tracer ( line or dash) so, according to the 2.3 sensor/sender schematic you posted, the 2.3 turbo does have a low oil level sensor. But the Ford diagrams are not showing a circuit for it on a 2.3 but only showing it for 6&8 cyl. So, does anyone on here happen to have an svo where they can use my photos as reference, and tell me where the blue wire goes?

[SVOfish]

If you use the schematic titles 4cyl turbo views 121 that mike posted , there are two connectors (grey in person) that are shown on the intake manifold in the schematic, one connector (lower) goes to fuel inj. And coolant temp sender, while the other (top connector on the side of intake in the schematic) goes to the cooling fan temp switch and oil press. Sender. On that top connector there is 4 wires 2 for the cooling fan temp switch, one for oil press. Sender, and then a blue wire that is unknown (to me) , I'm posting this since my pictures are without an engine in.the car, so I'm trying to help as much as I can. I truly appreciate all of the help.

[brsvo]

The oil level sender wire in my 86 is dark blue-coming off the fan sensor pigtail.

[SVOfish]

That's what it is then. Thank you for looking.

[SVOfish]

It never ends, I was observing the sensor location charts and there are three sensors on my intake. The coolant sensor (for the computer I believe) and then two on the back side . None of the svo diagrams I've seen show this setup. I believe the top sensor to be the KS, but iirc the lower sensor did not have a connector on it when I pulled the engine. So, I'm not sure what that sensor is anyway, or if I should be worried about it. This could explain why my cooling fan two wire connector was not plugged in, because there is no place for it.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/26/ajequba7.jpg
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[MikeFleming]

The lower one in the pic is the infamous 87/88 TC IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor. Not used on the SVO. 85.5/86 SVO intakes did not come with that hole or sensor. The boss was there in the casting, but it was not drilled/tapped for that model.

Looks like that lower was replaced with one from an 87/88 TC as it does not have the lower coolant boss drilled/tapped for the fan switch either.

The upper one is a blind hole where the Knock Sensor mounts. That is the proper KS location location for the PE -LA* - LB* EECs.

[MikeFleming]

On another note go buy (or order delivered) a small blast cabinet from Harbor Freight. And get some fine and coarse walnut shells. That will clean those parts up and make them real shiny again.

A very good restoration investment if you have a compressor. Not so good though if you don't have a compressor.

[SVOfish]

Thank you mike you are a huge help. I have almost all of the wiring done, still have two connectors that I have not identified yet on the passenger side. I'll post them later. And then I'll be done with wiring! As far as the fan turn on switch being absent, I suppose I could leave it that way and bypass it with a manual switch so I can control the fan, I have a autometer water temp gauge as well that was under the seat of the car in the box still. So then I can just watch the temp and turn the fan on via manual switch.

[MikeFleming]

So then I can just watch the temp and turn the fan on via manual switch. Note that only works if you're the only one - ever - to drive it. And as long as you never make a mistake.

IOW, not recommended. Street cars should be able to be driven by anyone and be setup so they take care of themselves most of the time.

IMHO,

[SVOfish]

What would be the way to get it back up and running again on its own? Especially since it has the tc lower intake with no fan turn on switch, and I'm sure the trw box under the dash is toast like many others I've read. It's not a dd, more of my cruiser for the local mustang meets and weekend cruises. I dd my GT to work, but that could change with some better mpg opprotunity presented by the svo once its done.

[SVOfish]

The upper one is a blind hole where the Knock Sensor mounts. That is the proper KS location location for the PE -LA* - LB* EECs.

What do you mean by blind hole? So since it is the proper ks location for the Pe-la lb eec. Since its not the traditional svo ks location on the intake, it wouldn't make a difference if I use the tc lower with that ks on the back of the intake correct? And then just leave the iat sensor below the ks as is since its not used in our application.

[MikeFleming]

That is the proper KS location.

A blind hole, versus a though hole, means it does not go through into anything. Such as the IAT hole goes through into the #4 intake runner so the sensor is exposed to the incoming air.

[SVOfish]

Got everything cleared up. I'm trying to pick out some pistons. Anyone have any links to some recommended pistons that aren't outrageously priced like the Cp pistons I could get 8 forged pistons for a 5.0 for how much those are.

[SVOfish]

It's been a while since I've updated. I will post some update pics tomorrow. Machine work is finished, now going back together. Stinger pi.m.p should be ready to go pick up wed.

[SVOfish]

Well, it starts, runs, and drives. Stinger came over a while back and we did some tuning and he showed me some good tips and tricks on TS for the Pi.M.P - I have it at a modest 15psi right now still, had a FPR crap out a few weeks after getting it running. All-in-all if you don't have a Pi.M.P or you are thinking about it, do it. Shannon and Wes are extremely helpful and have a great product well worth the $. And of course, this post would be pointless without some pictures. I am not what I call "Finished" at all with the underhood. I am still in the process of tucking and tidying up wiring mostly at the moment.Got the 3g alternator installed today as well wiring picture is what the old alternator harness looked like (melty) second picture from the bottom is what the engine looked like when I bought it, last picture fuel ve table that needs some work.
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