New & Improved Red 85 SVO

[Under Pressure]

I've been working on this car over 20 years. I just got everything back together & drove her around. Working great. The problems I had had to do with wiring, timing & broken gears. It's now New & Improved.

[Ford Builder]

That's great news , do you have some pictures of your car you can share?

[Under Pressure]

I'm trying to post some pics but I'm not doing something right it goes to yahoo when I try to attach a pic.

[Under Pressure]

Well I can't get pictures posted. I drove about 60 miles today for testing. It's running great. It drives like a new car. Wisco pistons .030 over. Big valve ported head Compitition Cams cam , water cooled AR.63,single 2 1/2 single exhaust straight Cherry Bomb muffler 3:73 rear axle, Bullet 17 in wheels

[MikeFleming]

You could always as email pics to someone that may know how to post pics.

Just sayin'.

[Under Pressure]

Ok see if this works73587359736673607362736373647365

[JTurbo]

Looking good!

[SVO4PWR2]

Everything Looks So Clean :like2:

-RICH-

[Under Pressure]

I used Super Clean Degreaser. I was worried my new epoxy coated floor would get messed up from all the liquids I spilled on the cardboard I had under the car. It didn't do any damage and cleaned up real easy. I made the floor to hold up from oil & gas. Now that I fixed all my oil leaks it shouldn't get too dirty.

[MikeFleming]

Looks like you got the attachments thingie worked out.

Nice progress!!

[BLK BRD 88]

Oh YES!
It looks very nice.
Ron

[Under Pressure]

The testing has gone well. 3/4 way thru a full tank. It looks like it's getting good gas mileage. I did spot a leak. The rack & pinion is leaking at the shaft that connects to the steering column. Looks like another project.

[rodster]

Looks good! :cool:

What size tires are you running on those wheels? Did you use a spacer so the center cap fits?

[TTop Dave]

Car looks really good!

[Under Pressure]

The tires are the 235/55 x 17. The tires are too tall. They are new Pirelli tires that came with the wheels, so I plan on wearing them out before I put on 225/45 x 17. The center caps are plastic and don't fit well. I dimpled the metal bearing grease cap. That's one on the list of detailed stuff that I'll work on later. The nice thing about these tires is I have more ground clearance.

[Under Pressure]

I pulled the rack & pinion out today. I've got to pull off the tie rod ends tomorrow, then head to Summit for a new rebuilt Summit rack & new tie rod ends. Get er back in next week & drive. A/C is next on the short list.

[escogt]

Looks great!! Nice work, man!!

[k98dave]

Curious why you have two pictures of my eng rebuild in your post?

[Under Pressure]

I didn't notice that. I was having trouble posting pics from this tablet so I transfered pics to my desktop. How I did that is unknown. Let me edit that out.

[k98dave]

I didn't notice that. I was having trouble posting pics from this tablet so I transfered pics to my desktop. How I did that is unknown. Let me edit that out.


No problem, I have a hard time getting images posted myself.

Nice car BTW!

[Under Pressure]

I am going to do a leak-down test next week. Then I'm going to pull the valve cover off, pressurize the cylinders and change my valve seals. Mike I changed the injectors & computer it was still same problem. It's smoking bad at idle so I hope it's just the seals. They are the old style seals I have the new style FelPro SS72683. If it's the head or rings I have a spare head & block ready to go in. I'm going to run the chip and big injectors as I think now it's oil causing the idle problem. I'll know more once I do the leak down test. Thanks

[Under Pressure]

I did a leak down & compression test. Not good. 1st I'll pull the head, then I'll see what's up.

[Meotchh]

How bad was it?

Do you have a shop to use if you need any machine work done?

[Under Pressure]

I haven't pulled the had yet. 135 on 1 125, 100, 130. Leak dn 20% loss on #1 23% on # 4 I didn't do a leak dn on 2 & 3 as it was difficult to find TDC or 2 & 3

[Meotchh]

Well, already sounds like you're heading down the path of replacing the HG.

FYI, if you don't have a shop you normally us near you, you can always give a call to Frank's Head & Engine Service in Griffin (770) 229-1888. I'm a little biased since it's my dad's shop. But you can check with Dave Smith, Mike Stevens, or Pat for their opinion of their work.

[Under Pressure]

779077917792

I pulled the head off last week. Very interesting, But Stupid! When I had the big valves & new guides installed 20 years ago it was returned to me with the dual springs installed ready for me to install the cam. When I took it apart last week it turns out the valve seals were the wrong size and were not locking down on the valve guides but had a good seal on the stem. Thus pumping oil down the guides. I cleaned everything up and now it's at Chastain Engines in Jonesboro for valve seat grinding or lapping whichever they need and new Comp Cam seals. I don't blow anymore head gaskets because I use a solid copper head gasket. I'm glad I pulled it apart.

[svono50]

Good thing you discovered the issue before actually 'toasting' anything! Sounds like you should be back on the road soon and stronger than ever, good luck.

[18lbs]

I like the Hogans Hero's reference...

[Under Pressure]

I got the new cam, lifters, seals, valves redone and the head is ready to go back on. I'm going to use some new Green Gaint 42lb injectors with the chip for awhile since I won't be hammering on the engine. I have to wait til a friend can help me put the head on, then I have to put all the Stuff back on then get him back t fire it up. I know the critical deal about breaking in the cam 20 min. @ 1800 rpms. It will be awhile before I'll be firing it up. I have 2 PE computers 1 has D6J02 *244* 6H292 the other has D6J23 *244* 6J222 both E5ZF-12650-E3A Do they both have the same calibration?
7960
7959

[MikeFleming]

. I know the critical deal about breaking in the cam 20 min. @ 1800 rpms. It will be awhile before I'll be firing it up. I have 2 PE computers 1 has D6J02 *244* 6H292 the other has D6J23 *244* 6J222 both E5ZF-12650-E3A Do they both have the same calibration? Get evrything setup and primed before firing/cranking the engine so it wil lstart right away. Crank less than ten seconds and get the RPM between 2500 and 3000 RPM and hold it there for the first 20 minutes. 1800 is too low.

While it's running at 2500, get timing set (30 BTC total with SPOUT in for a PE) and look for leaks.

All EECs with PE on them has the same calibration. Part numbers and date codes are irrelevant.

Make sure your "chip" works properly with a PE and with the 42Lb injectors or the running in will be way too rich.

[Under Pressure]

Engle said in their direction to not go over 2k and not below 1500. I did use the 42 lb before for a short time. I always have somebody set the timing quickly while I hold the rpms up. It'll be good

[MikeFleming]

I did use the 42 lb before for a short time Do you have a chip on the PE?

[Under Pressure]

Yes, It a set up with the 62lb injectors. Both the 42lb & the 62 are high Z. I have the boost dialed down to 12lb. I have a threaded rod on my wastegate. I m going to drive it easy during shake down testing. Then I'll go into fine tuning everything.I have brown top 35lb ers if I need to back off. It's not going down on me again!

[MikeFleming]

It's not going down on me again! Beat it into submission!

[Under Pressure]

Now that's funny I don't care who you are!

[Under Pressure]

I put the head on Monday. Tuesday put all the stuff back on. Wed. I fired it up. It didn't want to start. Then it fired up and shut right down. This was troubling. We swapped out distributors same thing. Then I had to feather the gas to get it to start coming up. It was missing like a bad plug( could have been since I cleaned and put in the old plugs). I held it at 2k for 30 min. It cleaned up and ran smooth. I shut it down and checked the timing and adjusted the idle, I took it on the road and did about 20 miles on the interstate, It pulled good with boost on it, but if I backed off the boost and ran it at 3k it was jumping around. It didn't hardly pull below 3k. I changed the injectors back to the 62lb. & adjusted the TPS. It runs great now very smooth idle and pulls strong thru out the rpm range. I think the big problem was the TPS being off. Now I can drive r!

[MikeFleming]

Good work!

Good to hear it's driving again. ( I will assume no oil leaks too! )

[Under Pressure]

Never Assume anything! No Answer at this time.

[Ford Builder]

Thats good to hear .

[Under Pressure]

I cleaned under the engine & transmission then let her dry. Then I put it in the garage and let it idle for 20 min. looking for oil leaks. I can't believe how smooth it's idling and starting up. I didn't see any leaks. I took it out for a 10 mile easy run not much boost. The cam is real nice. I got it back in the garage and checked for leaks. Yes I have a oil leak. Where it ends up dripping from is at the center of the transmission right where it connects to the engine. I don't think it's the rear main I think it's running down on the right side. I think it's the valve cover gasket. I had sealed it before with RTV so if I took it off again it won't stick and tear up the gasket. The next one will be sealed with something better. I tried one of the rubber gaskets before but the metal grommets stuck in the valve cover holes. I have a new cork gasket I'm going to use. I'll take it apart tomorrow. I like the cam.

[Under Pressure]

i took off the intercooler & the tb. The TB needed cleaning. The right side of the motor was wet from oil front to rear. I didn't snug down the valve cover.I tighten it down & took it out. This time I went WOT from 3K up to 6K in 3rd & 4th WOW! It pulls hard from 3K and pulls real strong all the way up to 6K I think I hit the rev limiter. I've never had a cam pull so strong above 5K Sweett It's a nice smooth idle. After 23 years of working on this car I now have the SVO I've wanted.

[Under Pressure]

I've been doing some testing and all is going well. I put a new TPS on and soilered a pig tail on it so I can check the TPS voltage easy. I put some blue locktite on the valve cover bolts as they want to back off. I drove about 70 miles mostly interstate 3-4 k pulling 3-9 lbs boost. It's running real strong. I pulled the plugs. They are not burning lean but they don't have any color other than down the outside of the insulator in the center. I won't be running it hard until I get the chip tuned. Before I do that I want to install a A/F meter with a wideband sensor. I got it narrowed down to the Zeitronix & a Innovate.I don't know what I need. I am running 12lbs of boost. I just want to monitor it in case I get into a race with a Civil. I have this chip I don't know what it is do you know Mike? So what kind of setup do I need?7973

[MikeFleming]

The chip printing is too blurry to read. Is that a RJ45 connector at the bottom?

[Under Pressure]

Yes that is a plug in connector. I think it's a Moates.

[MikeFleming]

Some pictures of the EEC Tuner card for reference installed into EEC box.
79747976797579777978

[Under Pressure]

Mine is plugged into the slot in the back. Is that called a J-3

[MikeFleming]

Iirc the connector is called a J3 but I've slept since then.

It's the same edge connector as was used with the old 360K/1.2M 5.25" floppy drive edge connectors.

[Under Pressure]

Yeah that's where I remember it from! Those were the days, oh yes those were the days!

[Under Pressure]

I ordered my Xmas present. The Innovate LM-2. Can't wait for the fat man I mean the the postman.

[Under Pressure]

I had my exhaust off and welded in a bung for the wideband O2 sensor. I also had the computer out to see who made the chip in the J3 port. It is a SCT. I put everything back together and ran Seafoam in the oil then drained. That stuff works. The oil I drained wasn't that old or dirty but the oil coming out was black. I put Champion 10-30w in. The book I have says 5.5 quarts w/filter. I checked it with the dip stick before I started it it was showing about a 1/2 quart low. I used another dip stick and it showed the same. What is the # for a 86 SVO dip stick?

[MikeFleming]

All SVO dipsticks are the same and interchangeable. Mine has the handle painted red - most are factory yellow.

BTW - the dipstick tube is different between the in-line and square intakes. Mostly the upper bracket.

Iirc the dry fill is 5 qts including the "short" oil filter.

[Under Pressure]

The number on my sticks one: E4ZE-6750-BA the other E5ZE-6750-BA I know the E means 80's the 4 means 84, 5 85 So full with a filter is 5 quarts?

[MikeFleming]

What does the dipstick read?

[Under Pressure]

Both dip sticks indicate the same level which is below the full line, I would say about 1/2 quart. I have a short Purolator filter. I now know why so much oil was coming out of the breather. But back to the numbers are they correct?

[MikeFleming]

Yes, factory fill is 5.0 Quarts.

[Under Pressure]

I have been putting some miles on the car. It's not leakng & running real strong. I had the high idle issue as others have mentioned. I decided to spray the linkage with WD-40 that fixed my idle problem. Good idea!

[Under Pressure]

I haven't had time to do the wideband sensor. I pulled the plugs. They have a hint of gray on the metal and just a few streams of brown. Down the latter wall down is black but the center is white. Not overheating but no color. The shops I checked around here want too much & didn't get favorable reviews. I changed the computer with the chip for my spare PE. I put brownies 35 back in.. I drove it around easy to let that EEC-IV figure everything out. I heard that it has about a 10% adjustment range for the air fuel ratio. My engine is .040 over big valves 2.5 exhaust. Will the EEC-IV able to handle the better air flow?

[Under Pressure]

Upon further investigation my setup should be good. I have a new BMAP sensor on the way. Then I'll get that A/C going. Then off to the Blue Ridge Pwky. Kool

[Under Pressure]

88558856I removed my valve cover and tapped the breather hole out to 1/2 npt. Don't tap threads to the bottom you'll have to use too much teflon tap. I used 3/4" from the oil pan to 5/8 from the T fitting. I'm testing now still have some mix water oil but very little compared to before.

[J. Caraco]

Where exactly are the two hoses from the back of the VC going? I have a single line to a catch can but that fills up in about 50-75 miles of driving!

[Under Pressure]

One hose is from the valve cover the other is from the crankcase breather. I've put about 80 miles on it and now I'm not getting any oil going out the tube. I added a filter at the end of the hose that I have attached to the lower part of the radiator. I think the larger hole in the valve cover is the trick to do on these engines.

[Under Pressure]

I still have oil leaking from th area of the dipstick tube. I've sealed it with seal all. I put paper towels in different places to pinpoint where it is coming from. I found that the leak is is coming from the oil fill cap when the engine is in the 3k range. The oil then runs to the back of the valve cover and drips down the back of the engine. I'm going to get a new different(not Slant) from AutoZone today & see if it has a tight secure fit.

[Under Pressure]

I got the new oil fill cap from Autozone. When I first put it on it won't turn. I took it over to my spare valve cover and used my big Channel Lock pliers to turn it on. I did it several times and then I could do it by hand. It's a good tight fit. I took the car out for a 10 mile sprint on the interstate. No Leaks. The brand is CST part #8109 $8.99 with your Military discount. I think it's the Chosen oil fill cap for the Ford 2.3 sohc turbo. It's made in Israel. Next is to put the R416A in the A/C & see if it works better than the R134A.

[Under Pressure]

I've been chasing my oil leaks. I redid my catch can and put some more clamps on hoses. I got it almost completely stopped. I think the bulk of the oil dripping that looks like it's coming from the rear main seal is coming from where the dipstick tube goes into the block. I used Seal All this last time. I'll tap or seal that dipstick tube on my spare engine. I also got new front brake calipers & brake pads.9338933993409341

[Under Pressure]

My calipers

[Unclesams_SVO]

You may want to address the kink in the yellow hose to reduce the restriction. I have the same catch can sitting on my shelf as well, thinking about using it on my Focus ST.

[Under Pressure]

Yeah I straighten it out. The only way I see you can get oil tite integrity with the dipstick tube to the block is to braze it or poxy it.

[Mike S]

Try some blue loctite. Plus your tube diameters to your catch can are too small. From the block, you need at least a 1" diameter tube and at least 3/8" from the valve cover.

[Under Pressure]

I've got 3/4" from the crankcase breather to the connector then 5/8" to the can the breather from the can is 1/2" the size of the fitting out. The pvc tubing doesn't grip as well as rubber so I clamped the connectors not pictured.I also added a spring to the dipstick tube to hold it down tight. I put paper towels in different locations to narrow down the leaks. If I have to I'll pull the engine again and seal everything.

[brsvo]

If you get that far in tap and install a compression fitting for the dipstick tube. Has been working great for me for a couple of years now.

[Under Pressure]

What tap size and fitting did you use? Do you have any pics? Did you have to cut the tube?

[brsvo]

I think it was 3/4-16 but it's been a couple of years. Yes you would have to cut the tube or do what I did and make a new one. The problem with that is you also have to make a bracket for it. I forget if the stock one could not be cut the right length because of the crimps to bottom it out or if I just wanted to keep the stock one intact. There is info on turboford somewhere.

[brsvo]

Here is a thread on TF on 100% Leak-free engine. Lots of good ideas.
http://forum.turboford.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=055031#000039

[Under Pressure]

I blew a oil seal on my turbo. Smokey. It's been 29 years since I've changed the turbo on the car. I remember it was difficult to get everything unhooked under the turbo. It's a bear. I got that done I'll do the topside tomorrow. I'm going to replace the water cooled journal CHRA. Just a regular T3 60 wheel with a .63 A/R. I've got 2 more turbos I'll propabaly redo later. They say the easy part is taking it apart. Not thrilled about putting it back on. Too many projects.

[MikeFleming]

^
It's good practice. 29 years between swapping turbos is what got you out of practice!!

[Under Pressure]

I picked up the A/C conversion kit from The Hose Wizard today. Nice kit Glen is a great guy he told me all the info about getting it up and running. The condensor is very thin. I still have to pull the old condensor and compressor out. I won't be working on it til it cools down. I had G-Pops turbo rebuild 2 turbos for me. Nice work. Pics

[Under Pressure]

I pulled the old a/c out this morning. The new condensor is a much better design. I'm glad I did this with the turbo out. Makes it easy to work on. The mounting plate bolts lined up good. I had to trim my lower radiator hose to get a sharper bend. I'll have to see if it hits when I lower it.

[Under Pressure]

more pics

[8T6 SVO]

I put the Hose Wizard A/C kit on my last SVO - worked great! No more belt squeal either, but I did go with a serpentine belt set up.

[Under Pressure]

I got the compressor installed today. Now I have to put the rest of it together then install the turbo. Work in progress.

[ddx77]

I'm waiting for the kit to arrive.

Looks great, thanks for posting your progress!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Under Pressure]

My friend came over and helped me put the turbo back on. He did a good job hooking up the turbo bracket and oil return line. I'll get the fan delivered tomorrow. Still have a lot to do to get er done.

[Under Pressure]

I got everything up and running. Put a charge in it yesterday. It wasn't a hot day so I didn't fully charge it. I got it putting out 54* now. It will be in the 80's today I'll put my guages on it today and give it a full charge. Nice to have ac after 20 years of no ac in this car.

[SchoolBoy]

God I am kicking myself for not buying this kit while it was available...

[Ford Builder]

Looking good great progress

[Under Pressure]

The car is running real good, I got the leaks down to very little when I put the hammer down. I have a new 140 amp alternator o/o. The fan and AC suck the voltage down. When they aren't on good charging. I got a amp clamp from Harbor going to check amp draw today.

[Under Pressure]

I got my new 150 amp Tuff Stuff G3 alternator today. Next I'm going to get a Optima red top battery. Now I need some time to put it in.

[Mike S]

I bought a red top once. It lasted a year. If you are going to spend that much money, get the yellow top. My neighbors finally gave up the ghost after 10 years.

[Under Pressure]

I got the Tuff Stuff G3 150 amp installed. It can handle the load of A/C & everything turned on nice steady 14 volts. Load tested the battery it's still good so I didn't need a battery.

[indysvodave]

On my "to do" list is re-installing my A/C.
Was debating on using the original parts (and taking a chance that they are any good), installing newer T-Bird compressor and parts, or finding an aftermarket kit...
You just made my decision much harder.
I've heard the original system is pretty inefficient.
I'm also on a budget, and I highly doubt that system you installed is inexpensive.
It's kindof cool reading your progress, though.

[Under Pressure]

I did some fine tuning the system today. I got it down to 43*. Then it cycles. Cools great. I did a lot of bare wire repair. I think I had it wired up before were I had a voltage drain that was affecting the total correct operation of the car including my spark. The car now runs like a Rocket!

[Under Pressure]

I made a big change in the handling this weekend. I bought some new tires that are the correct size. I went from 235/55x17 to 225/45x17. I got Cooper Zeon tires. I don't have anymore scrapping. The handling feels great.I also ordered some Steeda full subframe connectors, lift cylinders for the hatch and some Rockford Fosgate 5 x 7 for the rear. I already put the 3 1/2" Rockford in the dash Saturday. They sound great hooked up to my JVC. The next item down the road are SS brake hoses.

[Under Pressure]

UPS brought some parts yesterday. The Rockford speakers fit in the panels perfect. The speakers sound grrreat! When I get time I'll get the new Koni's and the subframe connectors in.
967496759670967196729673

[Under Pressure]

I put new decals on my gauges and a new plastic cover. That way when the cop says Do you know how fast you were going I can tell him. I also put in new bushings for the transmission cross mount and new center caps.

967896799680

[Under Pressure]

Now that it's running strong I figured I better replace the old brake hoses. These should give me some good pedal feel under hard braking.Just checked sending these back for the correct ones. Wrong year. Hurry up and wait!

9681

[Under Pressure]

I reinstalled my instrument panel today. When I was researching wiring problems I ran across a post to which 2 Mike's in a row were adamant about changing out the ignition module. Two Mikes can't be wrong so I did. It did make a big difference in the way the engine is running. It doesn't hunt at any time. It seems to be running smoother and no hesitation. The old one had a gap on the back side and was like it had a spring in it. Glad I did it before it failed. Thank you Mikes!

9683968496859686

[Under Pressure]

I've been driving a lot on the Nascar I-285. 6 fast lanes. The car is running real good 85-100. The car gets a lot of looks and a lot of crs that want to run. I really like the windows up AC & stereo on. The new shocks made a difference at speed and the brake pedal feels great. Just lovin it.

[Under Pressure]

I've had this poster for years above my door. Now it's true! Once I install Clear View it will be complete. I Love Lucy!

[brotharon]

I had to check out your thread since you have been helping me on mine. First, your car is great, I hope I can get mine there in the coming months. Second, red is the best color. Third, once I have the thing running like it should be I will have to pick your brain about the A/C you did since Hose Wizards isnt around any longer, but the heat in Houston isnt going anywhere. That third thing will probably be a while, but it is good to know that there is a fellow vet out there who already paved the way for me :p

[MikeFleming]

red is the best color. Worth repeating.

[Meotchh]

Worth repeating.

People have been banned for lesser offenses.

[brotharon]

People have been banned for lesser offenses.

You shouldn't ban someone for not knowing that red is the best color. It is a mistake that I see many Toyota Camry drivers making on a daily basis. It is easily corrected by showing them a beautiful red car like the OP of this thread has done.

[MikeFleming]

People have been banned for lesser offenses. And they wear their "BANNED" hat with pride!!!

[Under Pressure]

that is 1992 Ford truck Red!

[rodster]

And Mike is da man! :like2:

[Meotchh]

And Mike is da man! :like2:

Banned!! Until your next post, for attempting to further inflate Mike's ego.

[rodster]

Banned!! Until your next post, for attempting to further inflate Mike's ego.

Awwwww, Come on Buuuud...... :D

[Under Pressure]

Got my car back from RJ Performane this morning with my new Ron Francis wiring harness. Starts right up and runs great. To celebrate I put in 6 gal. of 90 octane non ethanol in her, she likes it. woo hoo

[MikeFleming]

Party On, Wayne!

[Under Pressure]

Mike are all 84-86 SVO VAM's calibrated the same and inter-changeable with different SVO computers? Are SVO computers pinned the same at the 60 pin connection? What pin number goes to the premium fuel switch to light the switch?

[Under Pressure]

The vam e4zx B529-AA will work on al 5 speed 2.3 sohc turbos as will a E9xx 12 b529-AA

[MikeFleming]

Mike are all 84-86 SVO VAM's calibrated the same and inter-changeable with different SVO computers? Are SVO computers pinned the same at the 60 pin connection? What pin number goes to the premium fuel switch to light the switch?

All SVOs use the same VAF/VAM, which is also the same VAF/VAM used in the 1987/88 TurboCoupe. All *other* turbo 2.3L engines use a smaller VAF/VAM.

Trick question - the EEC does not light the LED in the Premium fuel switch - that's all part of the switch. The Premium/Regular switch is an input (through some relays) TO the EEC, there is no signal back from the EEC TO the switch LED.

The Prem/Reg switch activates some relays that changes an input to the EEC (to tell it Premium mode) and also to send the EEC boost output signal to the Boost Control Solenoid.

I no longer have the pin numbers for Prem input setting and for Boost Output signal still lodged in my brain. Need to consult the historical archives.

[Under Pressure]

Ok thanks, I have a threaded rod on my wastegate adjusted to 15lb and not using the boost control solenoid. Even though the premium switch light is not on I'm still in the premium setting in the EEC? I don't want to melt down this engine.

[Under Pressure]

I contacted Ron Francis about the Premium switch, here's their reply " we do not support the octane switch. Our system has it run on the premium fuel table.

[MikeFleming]

Depends on which EEC is installed.

For the PE, the Premium "mode" adds the boost control system AND advances the ignition timing a fixed 6 degrees.

For the LA-series, there are two different spark maps - the timing changes vary by RPM, & load.

[Under Pressure]

I have the boost control solenoid plugged in just don't have hoses connected. If I connect my timing light will I see 6* added to the base 10 with the spout out?

[MikeFleming]

If SPOUT is out, then the EEC cannot add any timing - so it will be running at base timing.

For the PE EEC in Premium mode the timing will be +20 from base at closed throttle (aka 30 BTDC).

[Under Pressure]

I had the 90* water hose that comes out of the oil cooler to the heater core burst. While removing the small hose from the lower manifold the nipple on the hard line broke from rust. I brought it to a repair shop and had a new one made for $50. Going to get new silicon hoses and good clamps then we'll rock and party like it's 1999!10161

[MikeFleming]

On, Wayne!

[Under Pressure]

I needed to replace my lower radiator hose. All the places were showing hoses for the V-ate. My old hose still had the tag on it. Goodyear changed their hose division name to Continental Elite. Hose Continental #61034.

[Under Pressure]

The relay for my fan crapped out and my radiator blew the seam out on the plastic side chamber. I ordered a all aluminum one from American Muscle and a new relay from Summit Racing.

[brsvo]

Good looking car

[Under Pressure]

I got tired of the hood prop so I added MRT no drill hood struts, works great.10164