Overboost Light On My 84

[SVO8T4]

Took my 84 out for a spin over the weekend and it ran fine. Parked it in the garage. Went back later and when the key is turned the Overboost Light and Buzzer come on and the car will not even turn over. I had the dash and cluster out the day before but it ran fine the next day. I just purchased the car and the previous owner restored it from the ground up. Fuse? Ignition cut off switch when OB light is on? Please help.

[MikeFleming]

The light and buzzer come on whenever the ignition switch is in the Crank position. Totally normal.

If it;'s not cranking, first make sure the clutch pedal is fully depressed.

[svono50]

If the clutch isn't depressed (common mistake if distracted) you won't even get a click out of the solenoid. If you get a single click or multiple clicks out of the solenoid, then you battery is likely low, so get out your trusty DVOM and check it. Good luck.

[SVO8T4]

No clicks from the solenoid. If it's the clutch I need to kick myself in the A$$ and the first round is on me!!!!!;)

[Mike S]

There is a connector on the tranny for the neutral switch. Mine left me stranded because the wire hung to low and dragged the ground until it was in two parts. You may have an ignition switch issue. Put the car in Neutral, pull the parking brake, turn the key to the on position, then use a screw driver to jumper the solenoid. If it starts, then you know it is in the ignition wiring circuit and not something under the hood. If it doesn't turn over then you need to look under the hood.

Is the fuel pump priming when you turn on the ignition?

[SVO8T4]

Okay guys. Hard to admit this (in my defense I have only had the car just over a week) but clutch must be pushed ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR! ! LOL. I guess this was the best case scenario????? LOL:cool:

[svono50]

Well that is certainly the best case scenario, glad that is all it was. Never tried to see how far I have to push my clutch pedal, but I am sure it is similar. You can always see if there is any adjustment to the switch mechanism if you have to stomp it down or just bring it to the floor. Now go out there and start enjoying your new ride!!

[MikeFleming]

Okay guys. Hard to admit this (in my defense I have only had the car just over a week) but clutch must be pushed ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR! ! LOL. I guess this was the best case scenario????? LOL:cool: There is an adjustable switch in the pedal with a rod and a clicker thingie on it. You cna push the adjuster all the way rearwards (towards the pedal) to engage the clutch bypass switch and it'll start without depressing the pedal. Until you push down on the pedal and move the adjuster thingie.

If you never push the pedal past half way, then the starter stitch will engage at half mast. However the first time you make full stroke on the pedal, the adjuster moves to that level.

Every clutch-type Ford from 1979-1989 has the same adjuster mechanism on it.

I have some pics of the mechanism somwhere to givr you na idea on how ot muck with it. If I remember I will search between F1 events over the weekend.

[MikeFleming]

Clutch pedal starter interlock switch - mounted onto the pedal box, left (drivers) side of the box using sheet metal nut. Red arrows point downwards, towards carpet in drivers pedal area (to show perspective).
7857

The rod on the switch connects to the top end of the clutch pedal and moves in/out of the switch when up/down movement of the pedal.
7858

The assembly. Note the small white thingie on the end (firewall side, see red arrow) of the white plastic rod that goes through the interlock switch. THAT is the adjustment part. Push it upwards, towards the top/rear of the car). As the pedal is depressed, the thingie moves upward (in the pic) to close the interlock switch. If the pedal is moved too far, the white slider thingie moves to the next rachet position on the white rod.
7856

[SVO8T4]

Thanks for the info and pics guys. And I'll be sure to take her out this weekend!!!!