Mocking Bird lane

[Raven855]

I am making some changes to the the 85 gray(1B) car. I have been using it mainly for autocross but have some upgrades planned. Recently I fixed the rear quarter panel damage from a trailer blowout and figured out I have some wear in the passenger side control arm and it needs brakes, so on go the parts! I have parts put back for the road car but don't want to miss autocross this year. So here's my plan and I'll start with the body and suspension. Pics to come this weeekend. I have a few missing parts, if you have them let me know. Make comments, ask questions and make suggestions please....

BODY
Check frame for squareness(appointment in a few days)
Global West competition subframe connectors
Maximum Motorsports Strut tower brace
Maximum Motorsports sway bar mount reinforce plate
Mathis mod-Inner rocker rail reinforced
Roll bar*(need to order)
Roll bar padding*(need to order)
87-89 front bumper mounts* with later model glass front bumper and spacers


Rear Suspension
8.8 differential from Mark VII LSC
SVO diff cover
Moser axles with caliper flip mod
Mathis mod-anti squat brackets
Trailing arms
torque arm
Watts Link
Coil over kit
Bilstein shocks w/ race valving
rear sway Bar

Front Suspension
Steering shaft
Rack bushings
Bumpsteer kit
SN 95 spindles
Maximum Motorsports 3/4" forward offset control arms
Sway bar and bushings
Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates
Maximum Motorsports Bilstein strut w/ race valving
Maximum Motorsports coil over kit


Alignment Specs
1/16th" toe in, -1.5* camber, 4*-max caster
check camber and toe out on course

I have tires and wheels that I got from Pat. I have used them once and there is some question on the tire condition based on their age. They are being heat cycled to see if it helps them. I have some questions yet to be answered, like will my diff cover interfer with the watts link? Do I need a 1" rear bar instead of the 3/4"? What will my spring rates be on this car and setup? (hopefully Jack will see this and respond) And some big questions on engine condition now after an incident last year? More to come..........Doug and Dave can't have all the fun!

[Laredo]

....Doug and Dave can't have all the fun!

3 SVOs in the "Final 4"this year....?

[Laredo]

Are you still running the stock intercooler? I don't think the MM strut brace will fit with that.

[tommyb]

3 SVOs in the "Final 4"this year....?

Tom, Doug and Tony???? Is Dave going to run this year??

[Raven855]

Are you still running the stock intercooler? I don't think the MM strut brace will fit with that.
I will check it out friday. Thanks!

I have not heard of any plans yet for Sturgis. I am assuming we are going to have a gathering.

[Laredo]

Tom, Doug and Tony???? Is Dave going to run this year??

Tom, you cound leave your GT and new Hoosiers at home and bring the SVO instead, ;) Get your Maximum Motorsports catalog out, there's still plenty of garage time available before Sturgis to get handling mods on yours too. An SVO clean sweep of the Final 4 would be sweet!

[Laredo]

Nice list Tony! Can't wait to see how it performs...

One thing to add, exhaust mods to accommodate the Watts link and HD torque arm.

Also, when I talked to one of MM's tech guys (not Jack?) a while back about the torque arm / panhard options, he mentioned the importance of running their panhard bar with the torque arm to insure correct roll center.

[Raven855]

One thing to add, exhaust mods to accommodate the Watts link and HD torque arm.

Also, when I talked to one of MM's tech guys (not Jack?) a while back about the torque arm / panhard options, he mentioned the importance of running their panhard bar with the torque arm to insure correct roll center.

The Watts link can actually be better in this regards. The list I started with is suspension and steering. I was trying to keep the focus in one area at a time. But the engine is on the list!

[svono50]

The Watts link can actually be better in this regards. The list I started with is suspension and steering. I was trying to keep the focus in one area at a time. But the engine is on the list!

I have to agree with this, you don't have the arc of the panhard's movement to contend with when using a watts. The left/right roll is identical, since the roll center is defined by a centered point rather than the offset panhard design. It would be interesting to see the movement of your rear axle with a torque arm combined no lateral locating device other than the lower arms...yikes! I am sure your torque boxes would be 'moaning' from the stress.

[SchoolBoy]

A few things, I have the round tube global west sfc on the svo and steeda full lenghts on the capri. The difference is very noticeable, steeda wins. And why go through all that suspension work and not step up to cobra brakes?

[Raven855]

I'm currious to which Global West SFCs you have? Are they triangleated and tied to the outer rocker rails?

As for the brakes and not upgrading it was simply for economics of time and money. Since this car is what I use on an autocross course and speeds will rarely, if ever, get to 60 mph I don't think I could utilize them. Changing calipers, disks, master cylinders, brake lines, tires/wheels and porportioning valves and possible having to add a balance valve before the season starts was more than I wanted to do. I have most of the components and may change my mind though.

[SchoolBoy]

No mine are just round tubes with seat braces that run front to back.

[Chalky]

Sounds like a lot of what was/is under my car. You're gonna love it!!!

[Raven855]

Well the car has been sitting for awhile. Time to update the project and for some maintanence.

[Raven855]

Front suspension, originally I was using MM control arms. I have changed those out and used a set of terminator spec Cobra control arms. Used those to free up the MM arms for another project. Used the Cobra arms instead of the stock units to drop some weight and decrease some turning radius compared to the stock SVO. Using Napa sn95 ball joint and MM adapters to take advantage of the low friction ball joint. I’m told 55lbs effort compared to around 8 lbs effort for the low friction ball joint. 9612

[Raven855]

Cobra spec control arm bushing torque 148#. Using a low profile bolt from MM so it doesn’t tear the Rack boot.96139614

MM rack bushings MMST-7 used. Mounting torque 45#

[Raven855]

Used a MMST-11 Steering shaft. 9615
Steering shaft to rack mounting torque is 25# and the shaft to column is 54#

[Raven855]

Used Napa ball joint for an sn95 and used MM SVO spindle adapters MMFCAB-10. Ball joint torque is 129#9616

[Raven855]

Used an MM bumpsteer kit. Mounting torque is 154#9617

[Raven855]

9618Time for wheel bearing adjustment and repack. Cleaned and repacked the bearings.
From the Ford Mustang Service Manual:


1. Raise vehicle until tires clear the floor.
2. Remove wheel cover. Remove grease cap from hub.
3. Wipe excess grease from the end of the spindle. Remove the cotter pin and nut retainer. Discard the cotter pin.
4. Loosen adjusting nut three turns. Rock wheel, hub, and rotor assembly in and out several times to push the brake shoe and linings away from the rotor.
5. While rotating the wheel, hub, and rotor assembly in a counterclockwise direction, tighten the adjusting nut to 17 - 25 ft-lb to seat the bearings.
6. Loosen the adjusting nut one-half turn, then retighten to 10 -28 in-lb, using an in-lb torque wrench.
7. Place the nut retainer on the adjusting nut, so the castellations on the retainer are in-line with the cotter pin hole in the spindle.
8. Install a new cotter pin, and bend the ends around the castellation flange of the nut retainer.
9. Check front wheel rotation. If the wheel rotates properly, install the grease cap and wheelcover. If rotation is noisy and rough, follow procedures under "Replacement and Lubrication.
10. Before driving the vehicle, pump the brake pedal several times to restore normal brake pedal travel.

[Raven855]

Installed an MM SS brake line kit. Banjo bolt torque is 14#. Bleeder valve is 5#. 9619962096219622
Cleaned up the calipers, SS pistons are in good shape. Used MM SS pin guides and reinstall the Hawk pads. Caliper mounting torque is 40#.

[Raven855]

SVO wheel mounting torque is 85#9623

[Meotchh]

Where did you find the time to get to work on that?

[Raven855]

This afternoon.....

[Robertosvo]

Nice write-up !!

Looks like you will have a great handling beast with added reliability knowing you took the time to do it right.

keep the updates coming as you progress with the re-vamp/re-fresh

[SchoolBoy]

How did you get you tq on the ball joint? When we did mine I seam to remember the stud in the ball joint would spin using a normal wrench. So instead dad used his impact gun...

[Raven855]

Thanks Rob!

Nelson, I simply loaded the control arm by placing the floor jack under the arm and lifting slightly. Not enough to lift the car off the jack stand but for spring pressure to push the spindle againest the ballpoint and hold it.

[Raven855]

A year since updating! Life gets in the way I guess. Spent some time prepping a rear end for the car today. The one in it has had a pinion seal that has leaked its entire life and the seal has been replaced several times now. Prepped an other rear end today. Bearings, seals, welded the tubes, replaced the gears, replaced the diff and started cleaning it up for paint today. 9796

[SchoolBoy]

Going with an 8.8 this time?

[Raven855]

Yes, its an 8.8 out of a Lincoln LSC.

[Meotchh]

You get the fuel pump replaced yet?

[Raven855]

Fuel pump is replaced and upgraded. I had a Bosch at home. Also had to replace the relay under the seat. Pat gave me a hand doing a wheel alignment while we were there. Things seem out of square so it is up on jack stands right now. Going to check the K member squareness, differential orientation side to side and pinion angle. Might replace the clutch also. Will start after the forth. Maybe I’ll post some pictures of the procedure.