Finally reworking the front suspension and steering

[Billibew]

Well I finally got sick of looking at the numerous front end parts I have acquired over the years and have decided that they would take up less space on the car than on the shelves in my garage. Here is a list of the parts I have for the car and I want to know if I am missing any opportunities here while I have it all broken down to improve performance but keeping mostly original parts.

1. Factory original a-arms with serviceable ball joints that have been machined in.
2. New Inner and outer tie rod ends and bellows. ( I needed a new inner because of play on the passenger side)
3. New rotors
4. New steel piston calipers loaded with pads
5. 1 set of NOS Koni struts.

FYI My car is lowered with Eibach springs, don't know the part numbers, worn off mostly

I am considering.
1. MM steering shaft to eliminate rag joint
2. MM castor camber plates (never could get alignment quite right because of lowering)
3. spring isolators.
4. Stainless steel brake lines.

The car is mostly driven to shows right now. But I may take it to my local mustang club track day for some occasional fun nothing serious. Any and all input is welcome. Things I don't want to do. Replace the factory original rack, Swap spindles, or attempt to perform this project without Beer being consumed. Let me know if I am missing something.

[brsvo]

I bought the M&M caster camber plates and the factor dust boots don't work with the bumpstop as advised in the directions. I am considering bellows type boots. I would recommend the steering shaft.

[Billibew]

I was wondering about that. I also didn't want to cut the dust boots off of the original pieces. Now to find the proper bellows. Thanks.

[SVOC]

Lets be clear on this, you need the bellows for the steering rack?

Or you need the dust covers for the front struts, that keep trash out of the shaft?

[brsvo]

I need the dust covers for the strut. The MM stuff doesn't fit the stock cover.

[Billibew]

I already ordered the bellows for the rack and pinion. After Brsvo pointed out that the mm caster camber plates bump stop wouldn't fit the stock dust cover, I stated that if I would go with that option I would need to find the strut cover bellows to fit the Koni's. MM sells some but they appear to be blue and I would want black.

[brsvo]

Where on their site did you find strut covers?

[Billibew]

They are under bilstein dampers and mm dampers. Not Koni though.

[brsvo]

FYI the dust boots for the Bilstien and MM struts won't fit the Koni's. They are 2" and the Koni's are 2.2 according to MM tech guys.

[Billibew]

Some questions,
1. If you install the caster camber plates with the original Koni shocks, is there a clearance issue with the hood and the D-shaped adjustment piece?
2. After researching on this site I found reference to the Stainless Steel brake hose kit from MM to be MMBK1F to be compatible with our svo's, Can anyone tell me if the MMBK1P kit is also compatible which includes a rear axle flex hose?
3. Has anyone ever used the bellow style dust cover with the Koni shocks and if so what did they use?

[brsvo]

I haven't installed yet but bought bellows type genaric dust boots from Adavnce auto parts today. Looks like they will work, I will let you know after I install them.
Read here about hood clearance http://www.svocop.com/forum/showthread.php?853-Caster-camber-plates

[svono50]

Some questions,
1. If you install the caster camber plates with the original Koni shocks, is there a clearance issue with the hood and the D-shaped adjustment piece?
2. After researching on this site I found reference to the Stainless Steel brake hose kit from MM to be MMBK1F to be compatible with our svo's, Can anyone tell me if the MMBK1P kit is also compatible which includes a rear axle flex hose?
3. Has anyone ever used the bellow style dust cover with the Koni shocks and if so what did they use?

Feedback on #1: Only clearance issue is if you don't set up the spacers correctly and seat the top of the strut higher than the factory height. What I did was measured the original distance between the bottom of the onion head plate (i.e.- top of the strut tower) to the top of the strut rod. When you assemble your new parts, make sure the height of that stack is the same or slightly shorter than the original setup and all should be good. Make sure you cut your bump stops down as instructed to properly mate with your Eibach springs.

Feedback on #2: I used an Earl's kit for my 86 with good results...until I cut one of my fronts (long story). Fronts are now Goodridge units, but the Earl's are still in back.

Feedback on #3: I adapted my original dust boots to work with the supplied insert. It is a 1-way modification, so not an option if you are concerned about keeping the factory ones OEM style.

I can say that I completely love my MM solid shaft, much better than stock. Throw in the MM rack bushings to make your steering system more responsive than ever expected, too. You will get a little more engine noise transmitted through the steering column, but it was worth it for me and well appreciated out at the track days. Good luck with your project.

[brsvo]

Well explained, did you use standard or offset rack bushings?

[MikeFleming]

I have some unused aluminum rack bushings somewhere.

On the strut upper positioning: Beware of full bounce (compressed strut) with a lowered car and having the strut upper too low. Make sure the rubber bumper is compressed before the strut bottoms out into itself.

[Billibew]

Thanks for the help. Anyway to provide a part number or link for the Earl's brake lines.

Mike, don't the MM caster camber plates provide a little extra travel of the strut on lowered cars. If so I think i am ready to order them. And thanks, Mike for the offer of the aluminum rack bushings. I don't know that I would need them. I put new poly bushings on when I first put the car back on the road in 09. They seem to be doing fine. Of course I never have ran it on a track yet with them. Btw I still have the manifold you sold me sittiing in a box on a shelf in the garage. Maybe I will tackle that project next.

After I get the front end redone I will likely have a set of a-arms available with good life left in the ball joints on them. I had a good set for this project waiting when I came across the a-arms with the serviceable ball joints.

[MikeFleming]

Poly is fine - it's stiffer than stock without any added NVH. Aluminum is harder than the poly and adds more NVH with a minimal performance benefit (over poly).

Yep - exhaust manifold swapping is a tedious task when you don't do it often.

[brsvo]

Here is what I came up with for boots. They look better after I got the bottom out bumper straightened out.

[Jack Hidley]

The MMBK1F hoses will fit. The MMBK1R hose (rear center) only fits on the 1985.5 and 1986 models as they have dual exhaust and therefore changed to the 8.8" style rear brake hose (left side of differential).

[Billibew]

Thanks Jack, I fiqured they would and already ordered them. I have an 85.5 so I am happy to hear it should fit.