I want my 85 SVO to be a 85.5 SVO! [Archive]

soldthedart

04-04-2015, 03:24 AM

OK like the title says!
I know I need 35# injectors and a 3" exhaust but can you guys help me with a list of available bolt ons to accomplish my goal please. Also leads as to where they are available from would be great. NPD is right down the street from me here in michigan.
I already have a rebuilt stock motor in my car with the head also redone. Car runs and drives great.
I just want to go faster but not go overboard.
205HP would be fine.
Thanks in advance!!

Laredo

04-04-2015, 07:58 AM

205 is easy, but most of what you’ll need is going to be used stuff on the forums, not from NPD.
To run the 35# injectors, you need the 85-1/2 to 86 PE computer. Put out a “parts wanted” thread here or turboford. Lots of them out there (expect $75 - $100).
If you want the knock sensor to work correctly with the PE,you should also swap your intake from the inline to the square style. Make sure you get the mating dipstick also. These intakes are running $50 - $75.
Your boost control module will not work with the PE, so you will either have to move some pins around, or…just pick up a manual boostcontroller. Be careful with the MBC, your computer can no longer back off boost when it senses detonation. It will only retard timing. Retarded timing and full boost = high cylinder/exhaust temps = bad!
Also, you don't need a 3" exhaust to get to 205.

One other option - find some 93+ octane fuel, leave your car as-is other than a manual boost controller. Set boost up just a couple PSI (16-17). Presto! 205 hp... **Disclaimer - do NOT try this with crappy fuel.

TheSVOTrust

04-04-2015, 04:08 PM

Would have offered to have you visit Brighton MI (thesvotrust collection) and provided upper, lower fuel rail dipstick and PE until I saw the prices above !

Mark

soldthedart

04-04-2015, 06:25 PM

Would have offered to have you visit Brighton MI (thesvotrust collection) and provided upper, lower fuel rail dipstick and PE until I saw the prices above.

????

will this ecu work for my application along with the Injectors on the second link?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C46Z3K/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A311393O04YIYG

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ONH2WXE/ref=gno_cart_title_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A31WCB304A08MC

tommyb

04-04-2015, 08:55 PM

????

will this ecu work for my application along with the Injectors on the second link?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C46Z3K/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A311393O04YIYG

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ONH2WXE/ref=gno_cart_title_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A31WCB304A08MC

I can't figure how that computer would work for your application but the injectors look right. Personally I would try Rock Auto for injectors (cheaper) and it looks like they have a computer too for 167.79 including a core charge which you don't have?(PE)

I just did this conversion last year on my 84 you will also need the 85.5-86 fuel rail. I would definately reach out to Mark if he has the parts you need otherwise it just takes time to find all of the right parts and you never know what you have to pay + shipping. I needed to get parts from 2 intakes before I had everything to do the job. Laredo provided lots of good tips!

Good Luck and keep us posted

Tom

soldthedart

04-05-2015, 01:07 AM

Must have misunderstood which computer to use, I thought that the ecu was suppose to be the same as the turbo coupe the one that uses the brown top injectors.
I PMed Mark about parts. I definitely want the Knock sensor to work properly.
Even with good fuel if I disconnect my knock sensor she sounds like there's a morraca under the hood.
I drove the car out to Belville the other day " thats about an hour and a half one way!" To get a set of 2002 Roush 17" chrome 5 spoke rims and 245/45/17 tires for the car, man do they look good on the car! Ill post a picture this morning when the sun come up!
She runs Great! . I have her up on Craigs list to sell the car but it really is a great little runner I think ill keep her..

Is this down pipe used by anyone here?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustang-SVO-T3-IHI-2-3L-Turbo-Stainless-T304-Exhaust-Downpipe-Down-pipe/171363777590?_trksid=p2054897.c100204.m3164&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D201 40407115239%26meid%3D02a7af7ab89e499e9cf2c7de9c79094c%26pid% 3D100204%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D181436910501

brsvo

04-05-2015, 05:36 AM

The turbo coupe computer will run the 35 lb injectors. If you can't run without knock check your timing and ignition before upgrading. Pull codes ect. If all is good try some octane booster. If you want a 3" down pipe go to Stinger. http://www.stinger-performance.com/stockparts.html

Laredo

04-05-2015, 06:22 AM

...you will also need the 85.5-86 fuel rail. ...
Good catch Tom, forgot about that!

... I would definately reach out to Mark if he has the parts you need otherwise it just takes time to find all of the right parts and you never know what you have to pay + shipping...

Agreed. Happiness is getting all the parts you need all at once from the same source.

soldthedart

04-05-2015, 06:26 AM

I pulled the Spout and set it to 10 degrees as stated in the manual.
That was when I first got the car running.
I'll try it today unplugged and see what I have.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C46Z3K/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A311393O04YIYG

Is this the correct ecu? it is suppose to be for the 88 t bird.

So I am clear on this, the Knock sensor will not work with the LA3 ecu unless I change the upper and lower intakes right?
Do I also have to change the valve cover to use the t bird intakes? What about the cam?

Laredo

04-05-2015, 06:35 AM

Must have misunderstood which computer to use, I thought that the ecu was suppose to be the same as the turbo coupe the one that uses the brown top injectors.

You are sort-of almost correct, the Turbo Coupe computer (LA3) will work with the 35# injectors but it’s not the same as the later SVO PE. To use the LA3 you’ll have to do some pin swapping for the MAF sensor. The PE wouldbe a “plug and play” into your ’85 (other than the boost control module/solenoid.)

Laredo

04-05-2015, 06:47 AM

So I am clear on this, the Knock sensor will not work with the LA3 ecu unless I change the upper and lower intakes right?
Do I also have to change the valve cover to use the t bird intakes? What about the cam?

Yes, the knock sensor is calibrated to the acoustics of the intake.
And yes, if you go with the Turbo Coupe intake, you’ll have to swap the valve cover also.
You seem stuck on the Turbo Coupe LA3 (??)
Make it easy on yourself, go with the SVO PE computer, the SVO intake, and the keep your SVO valve cover. Less headache, same results.

Laredo

04-05-2015, 06:54 AM

Is this down pipe used by anyone here?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustang-SVO-T3-IHI-2-3L-Turbo-Stainless-T304-Exhaust-Downpipe-Down-pipe/171363777590?_trksid=p2054897.c100204.m3164&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D201 40407115239%26meid%3D02a7af7ab89e499e9cf2c7de9c79094c%26pid% 3D100204%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D181436910501

Don’t buy this! It shows applications for both Turbo Coupe and SVO. They’re not the same.
The Turbo Coupe has the IHI turbo, the angle / fit of the outlet is different. There’s no way you can get one pipe to fit both applications correctly.

Laredo

04-05-2015, 06:57 AM

If you want a 3" down pipe go to Stinger. http://www.stinger-performance.com/stockparts.html

What he said ^^^^

soldthedart

04-05-2015, 07:26 AM

The repinning is not an issue as long as the information is available.
But you make sense and your expertise is appreciated!
I just want to be sure all of my components will work together.
I ordered a manual boost controller and a gauge. Is the repinning only for the MAF?
I would have no problem using the later PE if I can get one reasonably priced.
Im going at this guns a blazing and my wife is gonna get angry if I spend all of her bingo money. LOL

soldthedart

04-05-2015, 07:28 AM

Make it easy on yourself, go with the SVO PE computer, the SVO intake, and the keep your SVO valve cover. Less headache, same results. [/QUOTE]

All I need is part numbers and where I can get them. I already bought NOS 35# brown tops this morning.
Ive been up since 4am.

soldthedart

04-05-2015, 07:30 AM

Don’t buy this! It shows applications for both Turbo Coupe and SVO. They’re not the same.
The Turbo Coupe has the IHI turbo, the angle / fit of the outlet is different. There’s no way you can get one pipe to fit both applications correctly.

Thanks for pointing that out, I just ordered the Stinger Pipe!!

soldthedart

04-05-2015, 02:46 PM

How about the new wheels.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa144/stinkybulldog/IMG_20150405_100218_694.jpg (http://s198.photobucket.com/user/stinkybulldog/media/IMG_20150405_100218_694.jpg.html)
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa144/stinkybulldog/IMG_20150405_100250_077.jpg (http://s198.photobucket.com/user/stinkybulldog/media/IMG_20150405_100250_077.jpg.html)

soldthedart

04-05-2015, 02:48 PM

One more! Damn snow!
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa144/stinkybulldog/IMG_20150405_100229_508.jpg (http://s198.photobucket.com/user/stinkybulldog/media/IMG_20150405_100229_508.jpg.html)

Laredo

04-05-2015, 04:15 PM

Luv the white!! Looks good!

soldthedart

05-03-2015, 01:00 PM

MikeFleming

05-03-2015, 01:12 PM

I now have the the PE installed changed out injectors and upper and lower intake.
Swapped TPS and set it to .90vdc installed AIC over to the new intake.
Installed the new MBC and blocked off the EGR with a plate and left the egr solenoid plugged and capped off the green line to the valve.
New Motorcraft wires and plugs, gaped to .030. cleaned and painted the intercooler , valve cover and the filter box.
Car had brand new fuel tank and filter installed, along with new pumps. This is the set up for the 84/85 engine with 2 pumps.
Spout was disconnected and timing set at 10 before it was disassembled.
I fire the car up it idles smooth up to 1600rpm then stalls out.
I did everything as instructed, Now do I need to also upgrade to another single pump for this set up to work? What is "AIC"?
Why did you disconnect/plug the EGR?

The fuel supply system is totally independent of the EEC version. It's a completely separate circuit that is not controlled/managed by the EEC other than switching power on/off to the fuel pump relay. Single or twin pumps does not mater as long as there is a fresh supply of pressurized fuel.

What is the fuel pressure doing when the engine stalls out?

soldthedart

05-03-2015, 02:25 PM

I just realized my brother has my pressure testing equipment and he in BF Egypt.
The guy I bought the parts from I thought had the correct EGR Tube.
I have that caped off at the manifold and the tube.
I installed to old ecu and she will stay running but not very good.
I rechecked the timing and tried adjusting the idle but as soon as I unplug the AIC "Air Idle Control Valve" it stalls out.
So I installed another AIC I had and it still stalls out.

TheSVOTrust

05-03-2015, 02:48 PM

The guy I bought the parts from I thought had the correct EGR Tube.

Sorry to hear this. Since we all follow these threads , and I invited you to get what ever you needed......I just want everyone to know I'm NOT THE GUY that sold the wrong parts!

Mark
P.S. Let us know how this works out - if you are tired of spending money and just want to trade let us know.

MikeFleming

05-03-2015, 03:41 PM

I installed to old ecu and she will stay running but not very good.
I rechecked the timing and tried adjusting the idle but as soon as I unplug the AIC "Air Idle Control Valve" it stalls out.
So I installed another AIC I had and it still stalls out. Yeah, ther pre-PE EECs will grossly over-fuel with the larger injectors.

The proper Ford term is IAC for Idle Air Control. AIC threw me, now I know what you're saying. If you prop open the throttle plate a bit, will it run (idle) without the IAC/AIC connected?

soldthedart

05-03-2015, 03:51 PM

Sorry to hear this. Since we all follow these threads , and I invited you to get what ever you needed......I just want everyone to know I'm NOT THE GUY that sold the wrong parts!

Im pretty sure I never mentioned you in anyway.
From what I recall the only post you made on any of my posts were to sell me parts. When I called you after you PMed me you went on to tell me about all of the parts you have but would not put a price on anything until we meet at some future swap meet some months in the future because you needed to "think about it!."
I figured a guy that only responded to threads if it was a possible sale was not really one who gave a crap about helping anyone.
Let alone doing anything but profiting from parting out these cars that are actually pretty rare.

Mark
P.S. Let us know how this works out - if you are tired of spending money and just want to trade let us know.

Im sure you will not post anything helpful and could care less, and by us you mean you of course.

soldthedart

05-03-2015, 03:59 PM

Yeah, ther pre-PE EECs will grossly over-fuel with the larger injectors.

The proper Ford term is IAC for Idle Air Control. AIC threw me, now I know what you're saying. If you prop open the throttle plate a bit, will it run (idle) without the IAC/AIC connected?

Mike,

If I peddle the car and it will run with the PE but as soon as I let of the gas she died out.
Swapped out the throttle body with no effect. perhaps I have a couple injectors plugged in the wrong place?
It could only be the 2 center injectors.

Laredo

05-03-2015, 04:08 PM

Are you sure all your intake hoses are fit properly and secure when you reinstalled the intercooler? Sounds like a VAM issue...

MikeFleming

05-03-2015, 04:10 PM

Doesn't sound like an injector issue - if it runs OK when pedaled around. As long as injectors are connected (electrically) in pairs, it does not matter where the wires go. Usually if the injectors are seriously unbalanced then using more power would mean more issues. OTOH it's entirely possible one or more of them has a low-flow pattern issue. Check pressure first. And, Yes, I realize some of your tools are out of reach.

Remind me where the injectors came from and their condition.

I would look more into intake system air leaks, VAF settings, throttle plate base idle settings, etc.

What does the KOER (engine running) EEC self-test show?

soldthedart

05-03-2015, 04:32 PM

Laredo, the intercooler connections seem to be done correctly.
I even removed and replaced it.
Mike, The injectors were to have been rebuilt.
I have another set of brown top I can send out to have reworked. I'll see about a pressure gauge tomorrow.
The pumps were all new along with the filter car ran fine before the swap so its definitely something I have done..
I can pull the fuel rail and visually check the spray pattern of the injectors and see if any of them are problematic.
I checked and made sure the pintals were not froze up before I had installed them.
Ill keep on looking for an intake leak but besides the MBC , line from the vacuum tree and the other to the waste gate actuator and capped off the unused connections that went to the BCS. It all is as it was as far as the vacuum lines go.
VAF settings? not sure what that is. KOER test be done if im peddling the car?
I hope its not they reassembly I did of the intercooler I couldn't find any pictures of the procedure so I winged it..

MikeFleming

05-03-2015, 07:53 PM

Be VERY careful checking the injector spray pattern when using petrol. Have your fire protective gear on (face mask, long sleeves, gloves on before doing this test. Place the fire bottles in the exit path so you can get to them by running away from the fire. I don't care much for petrol fires myself.

If it can idle by itself with the IAC connected, it will run a KOER.

You took the core out of the cooler housing? As long as none of the seals were torn, it;s pretty easy to re-assemble. Check it with the engine running at a high idle and spray some ether (Starting Fluid) around the core to housing on the top (do not use brake or carb cleaner). If its leaking, you'll see an increase in engine speed and probably also hear it pinging. There will be a time delay of maybe a second in most cases.

Under Pressure

05-04-2015, 02:06 AM

Check the tps voltage & the distributor gear teeth close for wear. I'd use WD 40 for checking for vacuum leak plug wires can be bad and arc to ground.

soldthedart

05-04-2015, 05:00 AM

TPS voltage @.90
Car ran fine before upgrade.
New plugs, cap roter and wires.+ Plugs gaped to .030

Raven855

05-04-2015, 09:14 AM

At this point I would check my work to make sure I didn't introduce a problem while changing things around. Swap your old computer back in and change out the injectors. It should start up, idle and run like it did before. If it doesn't you have introduced a problem.

This should be a simple upgrade. I have done this on the 1B 85. For reference this is what I did:
Changed out the inline intake for the square port intake from an 85.5 SVO(no need to swap valve cover with this intake)
(Did not use all of the bolt holes on the lower intake manifold to head, 85 head has 1 less hole)
Changed out the fuel rail and injectors
Adapted the cooling fan switch from the 85.5 by adding a ground wire and spade connectors
Disconnected the knock sensor
Disconnected the boost control module and solenoid
Added Gillis manual boost controller
Swapped out the PK for a PE computer
Swapped out the EGR tube
Swapped out the manifold dipstick bracket for the square port style
At this point, it started right up and ran well.

Since then I have added a drop in K&N filter, Stingers 3" exhaust system, a ported E6 exhaust manifold(the E3 cracked) and changed out the non water cooled .63 turbo for the 85.5 watercooled .48 turbo. With a fresh tune and synthetics in the drive line, here is a dyno chart on the car(66K miles)8303

It's a fun car to drive for me. The SVO can be problematic at times but they are easy to work on and fix. You have most likely introduced a problem. A vacumme leak or wiring connection probably. Make sure you didn't cross the fuel lines.

soldthedart

05-04-2015, 02:34 PM

soldthedart

05-05-2015, 05:22 AM

Im sure you could be right, I may have left something askew.
You are correct about the ecu, I swapped it back in and the car will idle just not as well as it used to..
Ill check things out thoroughly tomorrow and if I end up swapping in the old injectors and it fixes the problem ill send them out for rebuild.

It turned out to be the hose between the VAM and the Turbo inlet!
Have 107 in her and shee runs great at 17psi.
If you think the boost level im running is to high please let me know.
I have the knock sensor hooked up and shes really is running great.
Really glad I had listened to all of you.

MikeFleming

05-05-2015, 05:38 AM

We were about to recommend to thaw some chickens.

Glad to hear it's an SVO again. In my experience "upgrading" to square/35'ers/PE is one of the best investments.

soldthedart

05-05-2015, 05:52 AM

We were about to recommend to thaw some chickens.

Glad to hear it's an SVO again. In my experience "upgrading" to square/35'ers/PE is one of the best investments.

Barbeque? Not sure I get the chicken reference!

I originally had the Gillis valve set at 6 turns out but that put the boost at 20PSI.
I got off it imenideatly and turned it out 2 more times now shes at 17 steady.

Now onto the dreaded drivers side door lock actuator replacement.!!

MikeFleming

05-05-2015, 06:31 AM

The chicken reference usually starts with "Wave a dead chicken over the hood ..."; i.e.:

To perform a ritual in the direction of crashed software or hardware that one believes to be futile but is nevertheless necessary so that others are satisfied that an appropriate degree of effort has been expended. "I'll wave a dead chicken over the source code, but I really think we've run into an OS bug".
http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/wave+a+dead+chicken

"Thawing the chicken" refers to an alleged British test where launching assorted birds against the windscreens produced rather unexpected results.

( True story, as heard on the "Late Late Show with Tom Snyder" 3/3/97 )

Scientists at NASA have developed a gun for the purpose of launching dead chickens. It is used to shoot a dead chicken at the windshield of airline jet, military jet, or the space shuttle, at that vehicle's maximum traveling velocity. The idea being, that it would simulate the frequent incidents of collisions with airborne fowl, and therefore determine if the windshields are strong enough to endure high-speed bird strikes.

British engineers, upon hearing of the gun, were eager to test it on the windshields of their new high-speed trains. However, upon firing the gun, the engineers watched in shock as the chicken shattered the windshield, smashed through the control console, snapped the engineer's backrest in two, and embedded itself into the back wall of the cabin.

Horrified and puzzled, the engineers sent NASA the results of the experiment, along with the designs of the windshield, and asked the NASA scientists for any suggestions.

The NASA scientists sent back a brief response: "Thaw the chicken." http://urbanlegends.about.com/library/blthaw.htm