84 svo won't crank

[mrzw70]

The svo has been on the back burner for a while. I had it running and driving last year but I didn't drive it much at all. The factory intercooler set up was on the car and now ive switched to a fmic with a stinger kit. I'm running a stinger turbo back single 3" exhaust with la2 ecu and larger factory injectors. The problem I am having right now is the no crank issue. I'm getting power to the interior, dash lights up, buzzers go off but no crank; just a kind of click but not really. I tried another known good battery that made no difference.i did touch the hood to the battery post while working on it last year but I can't remember if I started it after that. Any thoughts on what to check first, I did roll the engine over with a ratchet just to be sure it wasn't stuck. Thanks in advance.
Mitchel.

[Under Pressure]

Check the battery ground on the block. If it's tight disconnect it and clean it. Check & clean all the ground wires in the engine bay.

[Kendal Coker]

Check the ignition switch. Not the key part. Part on the column. I have had them fall apart. Ford actually had a recall on them about 25 years ago.

[grntRUDD13]

Check the ignition switch. Not the key part. Part on the column. I have had them fall apart. Ford actually had a recall on them about 25 years ago.

This. Mine was doing the exact same thing you're describing not too long ago. Plan on getting new allen head bolts for it too. Unfortunately I can't remember what size/thread pitch they were. I just took mine to the hardware store and used their threaded template to figure it out.

[Raven855]

I would check the solenoid and clutch safety switch before jumping in and replacing the ignition switch. Theres a good chance it has been replaced before. Bypassing the solenoid, does the starter run? If it turns over, does the solenoid energize?

[Desert Patina]

If I remember right,

(first disconnect all wires on the two large terminals on the starter solenoid)

You can check the ignition switch by checking the voltage on the two terminals of the coil plug in the 'on' position, and while it is in start at the red/blue (r/g?) wire at the solenoid terminal.

You can check the solenoid by running a wire in place of the red/blue wire from the positive terminal on the battery, and hear it click loudly and then while that is on you should get continuity between the two larger terminals. Other signs the solenoid is bad: You see the light come on with a connectivity tester on the top terminal and the negative terminal of the battery. The solenoid rattles when you shake it.

It could also be the engine ground is disconnected. Or the starter is out, or the battery is too low to even try to make the starter click.

[mrzw70]

Thanks to all for the replies. I will start by checking my continuity on the wires and the confirm the clutch switch is working. I will try to energize the starter to see if that works too, just to be sure it does. Next will be the ignition switch. If the car has power everywhere else does that, mean my fusible link is still good?

[mrzw70]

So i went out tonight and jumped the solenoid and the car fired right up. Still won't start off of the key though. I plan to check the clutch switch and ignition switch as well. Are there any easy tests I can do for the ignition switch, i know i should search but I've got to get up at 4 am. I'm just tickled that it started and ran, it's been a while since I've heard it. ;)

[Raven855]

Check that the solenoid is clicking. Just float the wire at the solenoid and use your meter or test light. If there is no light or voltage check the clutch safety switch under the dash. While you are down there looking at the clutch switch pull the dash cover down there and take a look at your ignition switch. It is held on with two blind head screws. If the switch has been replaced the blind head screws will have been drilled out and replaced with regular screws or bolts. If you have blind head screws add it to your list of future potential problems and maybe go ahead and replace it before it leaves you stranded. A lot of times you can actually see the switch separating or getting hot.

[mrzw70]

When I turn the key to start the car there is a thump or clunk noise but nothing happens. Since it sounds like the signal is getting to the solenoid, should I just go ahead and replace it or trouble shoot more before I buy any parts?

[MikeFleming]

They're both very cheap:

Solenoid - $3.35 - $19.30 (rockauto selection)
Ignition switch - $5.84 - $14.31 (rockauto selection)

[mrzw70]

Ordered both from rockauto last night. Should be here early next week. I figured replacing them eliminates two things to check and is just maintenance needed.

[JTurbo]

Just had this problem with my 86 after winter storage. Started right up by jumping the solenoid, but not with the ignition key. I started checking for 12V - had it at the ignition switch (was original and starting to come apart - but still worked). Then nothing at the clutch safety switch nor the terminal on the solenoid. Ended up being some bad wires under the tunnel (neutral safety switch wiring, which is jumped with a loop on 5 speed cars). Soldered, shrink wrapped, then taped up.

Hardest part was trying to get a handle on the correct wire colors for troubleshooting. White-pink out of the ignition switch connector, which goes to a connector that feeds to the trans tunnel (drivers side). Comes back blue-red through the rest of the start system....

Good luck!

[Desert Patina]

oooohhhh! I saw that loop in the wiring diagrams, and I couldn't wrap my head around it. Thanks.

[mrzw70]

Well that wire will be the next thing I check. I changed the solenoid and the starter switch and there is no change. Still have power to the car but it won't start with the key. Just a thump sound when I turn the key.

[mrzw70]

Confirmed the clutch switch is working correctly as well. Still no luck. I will try to track down the neutral safety switch wire when i get some more time. Are there any fuses in the fuse panel that would keep it from starting? Does anyone have a picture of the fuse panel, i just, want to make sure I didn't disable the car last year and forgot about it. I do crap like that, I'm not sure why though. Always making things harder for myself.

[Raven855]

I am confused. You jumped the solenoid and it started, right? You have a thump sound when you try the starter, right? Have you verified that your thump sound is the solenoid? If the solenoid is engaging, and you have replaced the solenoid, and it starts when jumped at the solenoid, chances are you have a poor battery connection or the cable from the battery to the solenoid is bad.

[Desert Patina]

I am confused. You jumped the solenoid and it started, right? You have a thump sound when you try the starter, right? Have you verified that your thump sound is the solenoid? If the solenoid is engaging, and you have replaced the solenoid, and it starts when jumped at the solenoid, chances are you have a poor battery connection or the cable from the battery to the solenoid is bad.

or the main ground from the engine (got me once).

[mrzw70]

Yes, when I jump the solenoid the car starts and runs fine. When I turn the key the solenoid pops but I see no voltage across it with a meter, measuring from one post to the other. Both the main wire from the solenoid to the battery is new as well as the ground cable from the battery.

[mrzw70]

Am I missing a signal from somewhere to make this thing start with the key? Do I have to have a signal from the neutral safety switch even with the clutch is depressed?

On a side note I am having difficulties with a small nissan truck that exhibits the same symptoms, the starter spins if you cross it but not with the key. I just want to get this resolved before I get too frustrated and start roasting marshmallows on these things.

[Desert Patina]

Can you check two things...

Disconnect the small red-blue wire from the top terminal on the starter solenoid, and then turn the key to start. Check the voltage from the terminal at the end of the wire to any convenient ground. Should be more than 11v.

While the key is in start, use a jumper wire and press one end on the positive terminal on the battery and the other on the terminal on the solenoid the red/blue wire would normally go. It should actually try to crank over at that point.

The first test validates the ignition circuit from the battery, through the ignition switch and clutch and neutral switches.

The second test validates the last part of the switch / solenoid circuit (from solenoid to the negative terminal of the battery), including the actual start/power circuit from the battery, through the relay, to the starter motor and back through the ground cable to the negative terminal on the battery.

It would actually be better to do the second test as isolating the circuits by removing the power cables from the solenoid, and simply test for resistance (should be 0) across the large terminals while the wire from the battery is still charging the starter solenoid.

[mrzw70]

I disconnected the small wire at the terminal, mine has two wires connected at that terminal that are red with white stripes though. I checked voltage across it and ground and got more than 10 volts. It was hard to tell with my meter, spiking well past 10 though. I then tried crossing from the positive post to the terminal on the solenoid that the red and white wire connects to and the solenoid pops like it does with the key but no start. I then touched it from the positive terminal to the starter post and the engine fired right up.

[Desert Patina]

that must have been some jumper wire....

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, or reading it incorrectly, but you can be pretty sure the solenoid is your issue.

[Under Pressure]

Just because you are reading voltage doesn't mean it can draw the amperage to engage the starter. It sounds like you have a bad ground or a weak battery. I'd bet the heavy ground wire is bad.

[JTurbo]

Is the solenoid securely mounted to the chassis? If it's loose you don't get a good ground and it won't crank.

Note that the factory used glorified sheet metal screws that tend to not hold the solenoid all that tight.

[mrzw70]

A correction to my previous post; I jumped a wire from the positive post on the battery to the post on the solenoid that runs to the starter and yes it was an old amp wire. All else still applies. I tried another battery the other day with the same result. This is a second solenoid which is brand new and it is screwed very tight to the strut tower, albeit with the factory screws. Should i try scratching the paint from the tower to try to get a better ground? Both battery cables are brand new and in excellent shape.

[Desert Patina]

That is what I figured you did. It came through clear.

Also, I'm not worried about the battery if it actually started the car. The amperage that it takes to click a solenoid is far less than to turn the starter.

Did you do the test where you engaged the solenoid itself, with no starter wires connected to it, just to measure the resistance when it was engaged?

[mrzw70]

I will try that next. I measured across when I tried to start it from the hot post to the starter side of the solenoid and it showed no voltage though. I did not check for resistance across the solenoid.

[mrzw70]

Finally got it to start with the key. Stupid mistake on my part, I had the under hood light hooked to the solenoid for some reason. I'm not sure why, I just started chasing wires and realized it shouldn't be there. Removed it, and it fired right up. Thanks for all the trouble shooting advice.

[Desert Patina]

Always a good ending when its a simple fix.