My '86 Rebuild

[MSheff]

Finally sinking my teeth into a restore of my '86. I have owned it for 5 years with the intent to start the restoration as soon as I got it home, but everyone here knows how that goes... I bought it about 170 miles from home, had hardly ever even seen an SVO before, but had read about them and was determined to buy one. It was iffy, but the guy I bought it from said he thought I could drive it home, so I did, probably not a good idea, but I made it just fine. I didn't get into the boost until I gained some confidence a ways out of town. I had never experienced boost before and was immediately smitten...

The guy I bought it from said his boss owned it for a as long as he new him and just drove the wheels off of it and had no idea he had something special. His boss offered the car to him for purchase. He said he bought it to do a 5.0 conversion, but once he did some reading on it, said there was no way he was going to destroy the car so he did some work to get it running again and decided to sell to someone who was going to restore it. All that said, I think the car is pretty original, pretty straight, runs, but is just tired.

Since I have owned it, I have done some work, but nothing of great significance. My intent is to make it my "It's nice outside today, daily driver". Will do an engine rebuild, maybe tranny while it is out, suspension, paint, pretty much the whole nine yards. As you can see by the picture, the engine is out and I am on my way. I will post here as I progress. Any and all help along the way is appreciated!!! This is not my first rodeo, but have plenty to learn, especially about the SVO.

So, I have the engine rebuild is on my mind right now. Don't care to build a monster, but wouldn't mind some reasonable enhancements. Looking for your suggestions!...

8713

[brsvo]

How many miles are on the car/engine? These things are real stout motor wise and there are few upgrades to do in the bottom end unless you plan on spinning it faster than stock. Then you would need at minimum a cam but unless you plan on over 6500 rpm the bottom ends are good to go. Maybe a new oil pump out of a later model Ranger pickup but NO High Volume pump for sure. Auxillary shaft bearings with the oil groove for distributor lube would be a plus also.

[brsvo]

The "upgrade" to the M86 is the M127. Requires a little massage of the pickup or buy the M127 pickup, that's what I did. The M127 is easyer to turn than the stocker so it puts less strain on the dizzy gear. Oh yea show us More Pictures of your car.

[MSheff]

38,000 on the odometer, so I would guess at least 138,000. The engine ran pretty strong. My wife says she would see some smoke on acceleration when she was following me. I started breaking down the engine today and have gotten far enough to see the cylinders. They look super smooth with a very slight lip at the top of the stroke. I am going to take it to my local engine guy and we can evaluate what needs to be done.

Thanks for the tip on the on the oil pump and auxillary shaft bearings. I knew I would get dinged on the pictures. I have another car right next to it on blocks in the garage, so I couldn't get very good pics, but I should have the other car out in a week or so and I will get better pics.

[Svofrk]

Definitely keep us posted on progress and build and post photos.

[MSheff]

Sorry about the absence, but had to take some time off of the project to have a heart attack (this was unscheduled in my project plan), but back and feeling better than before now! In the meantime my engine has been at the shop and I have it back now, but it has just been sitting on the engine stand. My main focus has been to clean out the engine bay so i could add a fresh coat of paint (done!). This included a removing the steering, heater box, etc. Here are some semi-random photos I have taken along the way...

[MSheff]

89518952895389548955

[MSheff]

89568957

[MSheff]

Thanks Bob, the steering wheel looks great! Before... 8959 After... 8960

[MSheff]

More of the Engine Bay...8961896289638964896589668967896889698970

[MSheff]

And a few more...89718972 Hey look, there is a coyote in the back yard!8973

[MSheff]

Here is where I am now... I am going to clean up the wiring, re-wrap, look for problems, etc. I plan on doing the headlight upgrade and a 3G alternator upgrade. I read the post about good electrical upgrades while you have it torn down. It appears to be a target rich environment! The two upgrades are the ones I know for sure I am going to do, but looking for ideas from you guys...
8974

[MSheff]

Studying how to do the 3G upgrade here. Not sure how well you can see it, but the black gob of wires that all come together with the yellow wire that goes to the battery side of the solenoid... I am thinking what happens here is that I cut the Black/Orange wire coming out of the black gob (from the old alternator), then take my new charge wire coming from the new alternator to the battery side of the solenoid to mate with the yellow wire. Then, whatever all the black wires coming out of the gob are hot, to do whatever they do, wherever they go...
8975

[MSheff]

I think I am all caught up now!!! Looking for whatever ideas you guys can give me!

[MSheff]

A little out of order, but found a few more "before" engine bay pics...
897689778978 yuck!

[ccmcelroy]

That looks like a lot of work but it is looking really good. Sorry to hear about the heart attack but glad to hear you are doing well now. Looking forward to seeing more pictures as you progress.

[brsvo]

Glad you made it through and are still able to do this stuff. I agree it is looking great. Being this far in you might want to do relays for the headlights and fogs also.

[MSheff]

Hadn't thought about the fog lights, but that makes sense. The wiring is just as piddly for them as the headlights.

[8T6 SVO]

Great project MSheff!!! So good to see your hard work. Looks like you are doing things right! Love your engine compartment paint job and attention to detail.

There are lots of people here to give you advice on SVO specific issues you may run into.

Check for the vin #'s stamped on the engine and tranny while it's out - that will tell you if they are original to the car.

A couple of inspiration photos for you...

[MSheff]

Wow, looks Nice! That is where I am headed, but it sure seems like it is a long way away... I can use all the inspiration I can get! Thanks for the encouragement!

This could turn into a wild animals photographed in the backyard string... :)

[MSheff]

90229023
Back to the 3G upgrade... These are a couple pictures of the wires coming from my external voltage regulator. The Orange Blue and the White Black go to the Alternator and I assume are no longer used. The Yellow White goes to the bundle of wires that end up at the battery side of the solenoid. The green red heads back into the cabin and I would guess goes to the amp light?

So I think it would go like this:
Abandon Orange Blue, White Black and Yellow White.
Not sure what to do with Green Red.

Can someone point me in the right direction?

[MSheff]

After studying Project Tax Return and some of Mike's documentation (repeated below), it suddenly makes sense. Orange Blue and White Black are abandoned. Green Red goes to the Ignition Switch and would hook to the Green Red from the Alternator (that should have been an easy one). The Yellow White and Black Orange (the old Battery charge wire from the old alternator) just become battery 12 volt wires (always hot). I am thinking on using the Black Orange to supply my new relays for the headlights. Until someone tells me different, that is what I am going with.

90269027

[MikeFleming]

Some pics to help and a few notes about power return (aka ground flow).

if you paint your block and or brackets, it is critical to remove the paint on the alternator bracket - the side that bolts to the head - and the head mating surfaces. Where the three 8mm bolts mount it to the head. Additionally the alternator body must have the paint removed (if painted) form the rear of the mounting hole surfaces and where it mates to the alternator bracket. This is the ground path for the alternator. Then it goes through the head-to-block bolts, and eventually to the ground cable that connects directly to the battery negative (and some parts of the chassis. And make sure the long alternator mounting/pivot bolt is clean. Note we want the power flow to be to the round surface at the rear of the alternator pivot and the forward mating surface of the bracket rather than just the threads. Several pics of the Red Baron power-coated 3G and assorted brackets. See the red circles in the pics below.

It is critical that all of these mounting surfaces are a good electrical connection - free of paint.

I've also included a drawing/pic from Pat detailing installation of a 3G and his custom power cable for reference. Gotta put it somewhere.

902990309031903290339028

[Chalky]

Lookin' good Sheff, giving me motivation to get back to mine.