turn signal causing radio to shut off

[NY eric]

Ok this is one I think I have heard stories about. A wise man gave me a part and told me to hang onto it for this reason (I think).

Before I go and tear my column apart to change the signal stalk switch, listen to my story and see if you have a different idea.

Tonight driving my 86 with 71k on the dial. Went to make a left turn and hit the signal and the radio cut off for a sec ... just long enough to reset my cd player (in dash aftermarket). I have had this car since 90 and She is electrically sound (as good as any svo is) but she is getting to that age. Drove it for a while longer made several other lefts and rights no issue then it happened again. With a left signal. I have been able to do it 6 times total now so I think it is the signal stalk itself. I still have original ignition switch installed (for what its worth).

Second issue and not sure if it is related. My gauges are reading all over the place. I replaced the IVR on the back of the speedo a few years back and it solved it then. I just have been too lazy to order one. Since I got out of the parts business I have really been neglecting this car.

So... my question is do you think I am on the right track for the radio cut off or should I be looking somewhere else? I am just trying to save some beer.

[Mike S]

Ignition switch. it before you have a car-b-que. It will most likely fall apart in your hand once you remove the tamper resistant screws.

[NY eric]

Ignition switch. it before you have a car-b-que. It will most likely fall apart in your hand once you remove the tamper resistant screws.

Are you talking about the module itself or the key lock cylinder?

[MikeFleming]

Are you talking about the module itself or the key lock cylinder? He's referring to the electrical (switch) part. NOT the lock part. That would be the ignition lock.

What is your battery voltage during all this? I assume at night with the headlights on? Test the battery voltage (at the battery) with the headlights, radio, turn signal (or 4-way flasher) all on. You can also test that using the cig lighter/power socket as a source while driving.

AND: If it's the original ignition switch (electrical thingie), replace it. If it's NOT original AND you don't know the history, replace it.

[NY eric]

He's referring to the electrical (switch) part. NOT the lock part. That would be the ignition lock.

What is your battery voltage during all this? I assume at night with the headlights on? Test the battery voltage (at the battery) with the headlights, radio, turn signal (or 4-way flasher) all on. You can also test that using he cig lighter/power socket as a source while driving.

AND: If it's the original ignition switch (electrical thingie), replace it. If it's NOT original AND you don't know the history, replace it.

Ok. looks like it is the alternator again. getting 12.4 with the car running . weird part is this time my amp light didnt light up. I have replaced soo many alernators over the years in this car. almost every time the amp light lights up.

thanks for your help Mike. FYI Pat asked me what was my voltage as well.

as a side note what is up with the bolts for the ignition module. do I drill them cut a slot into them or what?

[MikeFleming]

as a side note what is up with the bolts for the ignition module. do I drill them cut a slot into them or what? Standard (6mm? iirc) shear bolts. VERY soft metal. Use a sharp chisel with 8oz hammer, dent the heads with the sharp end thus making them into slot-head screws, then unscrew them. All of 60 seconds including taking off the shroulds. Disconnect the battery before removing the harness plug.

Feel free to reuse same ones, replace with normal Allen-head, Phillips, or new shear bolts (some switches come with new bolts).

[NY eric]

so..... went to check the readings one more time to satisfy curiosity. Now it is reading 14.2 while running.

So I messed with putting a load on the car and starting and stopping the engine. I got it into the 12.4 while running condition 2 more times over the course of a dozen or so attempts.

I had my original voltage regulator (was replaced because it was pitted), which was removed in perfect running condition. I threw that in and tried to recreate the events. So far it seems stable? I am going to do the ignition module but i want to see if this was just a regulator issue. It may explain my gauges too?

I really hate intermittent issues.

[MikeFleming]

Ignition SWITCH.

[Mike S]

I have used vise grips to remove the tamper resistant screws. Once they are out, get some replacements from the parts store.

Based on what the symptoms are I bet the switch will fall apart in your hands when you try to remove the electrical connector.

[NY eric]

I have used vise grips to remove the tamper resistant screws. Once they are out, get some replacements from the parts store.

Based on what the symptoms are I bet the switch will fall apart in your hands when you try to remove the electrical connector.
I drove back and fourth to work today with no issues. I figured since i had the switch I would change it out. The old one was solid as a rock no wiggle to the plastic at all. I suspect my alt is going to fail me sooner or later. I chime back in if something pops up.

[MikeFleming]

I chime back in if something pops up. We'll keep a light on for you.

[NY eric]

well went for 2 weeks and all is good and it came back again last night. I took the alt off and took it to a alt specialty shop and they confirmed the alt is good. I have a new voltage reg and a new ignition switch. I have PLA wiring kit installed (many years ago). They told me to check my wiring to see if there is something not making good contact in the charging loop (between the alt and voltage reg).

thoughts?

[MikeFleming]

What is battery or system voltage when this symptom occurs?

Most radios will begin to cut-out at 10.0 VDC while ignition will continue to work (light loads) down to 8.5. Get a volt merter (or similar LED indicating device) connected to the cig lighter.

The wiring, regulator and alternator are all parts of the charging system. Have you replaced the alt with a known good unit?

On a larger note: Even if the alternator and charging system is working properly the [stock] alt is only gonna output 60A with engine >3000 RPM. Depending on the electrical loads, that might not be enough to keep up. Some numbers:

Ignition on, engine running - 8 A
Fuel pump at full chat - 15 A
Running lights - 12-15A
Head lights ( (assuming stock-ish 60W each) - 12A
AC - 12-20A (with fan)
Fog lights - 12A
Turn signals - 10A

You can easily see that running all of the above can quickly exceed 60A. No to mention conditions where the engine is idling.

[NY eric]

What is battery or system voltage when this symptom occurs?

Most radios will begin to cut-out at 10.0 VDC while ignition will continue to work (light loads) down to 8.5. Get a volt merter (or similar LED indicating device) connected to the cig lighter.

The wiring, regulator and alternator are all parts of the charging system. Have you replaced the alt with a known good unit?



On a larger note: Even if the alternator and charging system is working properly the [stock] alt is only gonna output 60A with engine >3000 RPM. Depending on the electrical loads, that might not be enough to keep up. Some numbers:

Ignition on, engine running - 8 A
Fuel pump at full chat - 15 A
Running lights - 12-15A
Head lights ( (assuming stock-ish 60W each) - 12A
AC - 12-20A (with fan)
Fog lights - 12A
Turn signals - 10A

You can easily see that running all of the above can quickly exceed 60A. No to mention conditions where the engine is idling.
When it runs it puts 14.4 to the battery. when it is cutting out it is 12.2 or less. the shop took my alt and put load on it and they said it passed. Max output was 74 amps. They said they put 70 amp load on it. The alt is the 65 amp unit. I will reinstall tonight and check the wiring for something crunchy there.. any other possible culprits?

[Under Pressure]

Is this the Ignition switch you're talking about? The electrical thingie!

[MikeFleming]

^
Yep. That be the column-moonted ignition switch.