1986 SVO Resto-mod Build

[Unclesams_SVO]

I have had this car for over 10 years now, I bought it in 2006 w/54K miles on it....fast forward to now and it has right around-70K miles. During this time I have done a few mods here and there (rebuilt turbo, installed an IRS, FMIC, serpentine setup, DIY rotated upper, Cobra brakes, etc). Now after a few years of rat-holing more money and parts I am ready to finish the "mod" part of "resto".

I am installing MM coil overs in the front front and rear along with their full K-Member kit. Next I am replacing the ECU for a PIMP ECU w/ a wideband (going to figure out this data-logging thing). Then comes the fuel system, every thing is getting replaced except for the fuel tank (just going to freshen it up) and upgrade the fuel lines, FPR, fuel rail, fuel pump install 60# injectors.

Now for the wheels, my plan is to run a staggered setup of Motegi "Tracklite" wheels w/ 18x9 for the rear and 18x8 in the front. I am waiting to install all the suspension parts in order to figure out the correct backspacing. I plan on running 275/35/40 and 255/34/18 Nitto NT05 tires and I hope everything works out and looks good.

Once the "mod" part is done I plan on turing to the "resto" part to bring back the glory of my SVO. There are a few parts that have broke over the years or are just plain worn out. Once those are all taken care of I want to repaint the car in the spring same color combo (Sliver w/black trim).

Enough of my talking...on with the pictures.

I have added a few picture of the engine clean up I did and the IRS swap as well.918291839184918591869187
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[Unclesams_SVO]

I started on the fuel system first. After the sticker shock of replacing everything and upgrading it to a braided/hard line system wore off I started with ripping everything out. I removed and drained the 15 gal of 2 year old gas (man that was a mess), the only thing that I am reusing is the tank. I replaced all the gaskets, sending unit, pump, vapor valve and I swapped the stock fuel pump hanger for one from a 94/95 Mustang that has a 3/8" feed and return line. I will have a picture of the differences once it shows up.

I also installed a rear tow strap, I did auto-x and road race the car a few times before I put the car in "time-out" for leaving me stranded a few years ago.

I have read that the SCCA now requires a front and rear tow point....so that is what I shall do.

I bent up a piece of metal to help re-enfore the rear bumper shock so it does not pull apart if I ever need to use the tow point. With a small zip tie the tow strap tucks up nicely out of the way so it does not look like a tongue flapping out from under the bumper. Then on the track day just cut the zip tie and it is ready to go.

[Unclesams_SVO]

The fuel hanger showed up today, so on with finishing up the fuel tank. I used a 94/95 Mustang fuel hanger (Spectra FG30B) because it has a larger 3/8" feed line (vs' the 5/16" SVO one). For the fuel pump I used an Aeromotive 11540 Fuel Pump just encase I decide to run the car on E85 since 91 oct is about as good as it gets in Las Vegas.

I had to cut, splice and solider the fuel pump harness to the hanger harness, then a shrink wrapped everything and made sure there was nothing rubbing against each other. I thought I could use a hose clamp to secure the harness but I was wrong...so I used a zip tie instead. I am using Russell AN to SAE adapters so I can used braided fuel line instead of the OEM stuff. The fitting part numbers are (Russell 641303) for the 1/4" return line and (Russell 640853) for the 3/8" supply line.

I added a picture of the SVO and the 94/95 fuel hander to show the difference between them.

Once all of the fuel lines arrive I will be able to install the tank and run the fuel lines. I'm sure some people are wondering why I am going the "AN" route instead of just ordering replacement hoses. After pricing it all out, it was about the same cost from tank to fuel rail for each setup. I figured running the AN stuff will look nicer and I will be able to run the lines around all of the non-oem parts that I have installed on the car over the years.

On a side note I am installing a wide-band gauge for the PIMP ecu, I want to mount it in the ash try hole so I figured I would take a picture of the Steeda Tri-Ax short throw shifter and the MGW shifter handle while the center counsel was removed. I installed this setup a while ago but I never took pictures of it, it is way better then the stock handle or even just using the Steeda setup.

[brsvo]

Nice!!

[tommyb]

Cool Build, keep us up to date on the progress!!

[Unclesams_SVO]

My K-member kit showed up today from Maximum Motorsports so I figured I would tear into the suspension and get that all sorted out before I ran the fuel lines. I ordered the full K-member system for the car, I already had a new set of Koni yellows so with this kit the car should handle like it is on rails. Unfortunatly some of the parts that I had bought years ago will not work with these new parts (I hate buying things twice) so taking those off and now trying to sell them is always "fun".


I was able to unpack everything and then remove all of the stock and cobra parts that were installed on the car (thanks to my new harbor fright special engine bar). I assembled the front coil overs and installed the new caster/camber plates. Then my OCD started kicking in so now I am going to replace the motor mounts, re-route some of the hoses/wiring and do some more painting here and there. I am also debating on swapping the power rack/pinion out for a manual one, the big thing stopping me is the added cost ($500 for rack and steering shaft).


Anyways, enough of my rambling here are picture of todays progress.

[Laredo]

Luv to see "work in progress" project photos! Keep the pics and captions coming...!;)

[Unclesams_SVO]

After years of messing with the power steering setup and trying different setups (OEM, T-bird remote reservoir, upgraded cooler) all ended up puking or leaking all over the place......I finally made the decision to ditch the power steering. I order a Flaming river manual 20:1 rack along with their steering shaft. By the time I'm done this SVO will be darn near brand new if I keep this "OCD" crap up.

[MikeFleming]

... SVO ... if I keep this "OCD" crap up. It's definitely a disease. And working on the car(s) is a form of treatment.

I submit that all purchases of SVO parts & supplies be tax deductible as a medical expense.

[Unclesams_SVO]

It's definitely a disease. And working on the car(s) is a form of treatment.

I submit that all purchases of SVO parts & supplies be tax deductible as a medical expense.

I agree!

[Unclesams_SVO]

I removed the rest of the power steering parts today, for those curious as to what serpentine setup this is....the bracket is out of a ranger and the pulleys are from a early 90's mustang.


I then removed all the vacuum lines and engine bay harnesses as well as removed the fender liners in order to hide the harnesses and vacuum lines to help clean up the engine bay. I laid the drivers side harness in the frame channel and I am thinking of using some aluminum or sheet metal as a removable cover to help keep everything accessible and hidden at the sane time.

[Unclesams_SVO]

After reading up on the MM k-member install I realized that my 94/95 spindles were not ideal. So this morning I went to the junk yard and picked up a pair of 99-04 spindles, I plan on rebuilding them with new hubs. My flaming river rack-n-pinion and steering shaft came in this week as well.

I continued with my wire tucking today and moved all of the items the were on the passenger fender well to behind the shock tower (leaving enough room for the fuel lines). Then I decided to degrease the engine bay and mount the coolant overflow tank.

[Meotchh]

Damn I need to get back to work on mine. But it won't be until December.

[Unclesams_SVO]

This car has been sitting in the corner of the garage since Nov 14' after the fuel line failed and sprayed gas all over the wall, so I feel your pain.

[Unclesams_SVO]

More parts arrived today.

New hubs for the 99-04 spindles and brakes for the cobra calipers. Along with and new cap/rotor, plug wires, PCV valve, limiting strap for the engine (since the stock dampers will not be reused) and some new bushings for the transmission cross member.

[Laredo]

Slightly off topic, but...nice floor!!!

[Unclesams_SVO]

Slightly off topic, but...nice floor!!!

Why thank you, "Home Depot special" paint kit with Ford Racing colors for inspiration. :cool:

[MikeFleming]

... with Ford Racing colors for inspiration. :cool: Needs more red. Just thinking out loud here.

[Under Pressure]

Yeah Nice floor it looks just like mine. I hate when my SVO drips oil on it but it cleans up easy.

[Unclesams_SVO]

Yeah Nice floor it looks just like mine. I hate when my SVO drips oil on it but it cleans up easy.

Oil leaks just let ya know that it is not empty.

[Unclesams_SVO]

New engine mounts and spindle dust cap came in today.


I think I am getting to the point of not really wanting to look at this recent collection of receipts. It also seems like the UPS guy is at the house almost daily at this point.....not sure if that is a good or bad thing tho.

[brsvo]

For a while there the only things on my Credit card receipt were SVO parts. But if that's all then I am good cause I only spend money I have on the car. On the other hand I know I don't want to total up all the receipts in my folder!!!!!

[Unclesams_SVO]

Removed resealed and repainted the oil pan (it was leaking thanks to using a 1 piece gasket). I just have to find an o-ring for the oil level sensor as it was toast. Hopefully the Fel-pro cork gasket will be better. I also installed new motor mounts and refinished the mount brackets. I repainted the starter (only had Ford blue engine paint in the drawer and I did not want to run out and get black). Finally a slapped in a new Motorcraft oil filter and called it a day.


Anyways on with a couple more pictures.

[Laredo]

...It also seems like the UPS guy is at the house almost daily at this point...

When you're on a first name basis with the FedEx Ground and UPS guys, you know you have SVO fever. Proceed with caution!
Also watch for danger sign when you start thinking "While I'm at it, I could...."

[Unclesams_SVO]

Also watch for danger sign when you start thinking "While I'm at it, I could...."

Danger sign......lol, I would have it no other way. :cool:

[Unclesams_SVO]

I made some pretty good head way this weekend. I installed the new Maximum Motorsports K-member, A-arms, Coilovers, flamming river rack and steering shaft, MM bump-steer kit and 99-04 spindles.

The k-member was a fun thing to install with one person, I thought I could do it with the engine mounts in....boy was I wrong. On the drivers side I could not use the slots in the K-member, I had to use the holes which made keeping the mounts in next to impossible. So after removing the engine mounts the k-member slid into place. Now came the really fun part of squaring up the suspension. To do that I had to break out my plum bobs ( i used the Harbor Freight one and the Home Depot one, they are both about the same price but the harbor freight one has a lot more weight to it, the HF one is much skinnier making it easier to see where your mark is). After adjusting the k-member a couple times I got it within 1/16" from being squared up.

Next I installed the reverse offset A-arms (to keep the wheel in the factory location when using the MM k-member), those went it pretty easy using the top set of mounting holes, then I realized I needed to make another quick dash to Home Depot to get a T-55 torx bit. The MM k-member comes with 2 low profile bolts, these are used in the front mounting holes because the factory ones will interfere with the steering rack dust covers.

Then came the Flamming river 20:1 manual steering rack and steering shaft kit. The MM k-member kit came with aluminum rack bushings with offset mounting holes allow stock rack position, 2 positions upward, and 2 positions downward. I used the highest upward position as this aligned the rack and the A-arms the best (while not even coming close to interfering with the oil pan). In that position the rack hit the k-member so I had to shim it out about 1/16" with a big ass washer. The steering shaft went in pretty easily, I ended up removing about 1/2" from the shaft to get it installed with out any binding.

Now it was time to focus on the 99-04 "junk yard special" spindles. After removing the old hub and cleaning them up, I threw a fresh coat of paint on them and thought I was goo to go......that is until I read the directions for the MM bumpsteer kit that require a 5/8" hole instead of the factory 1/2"-ish hole. So out came my drill press and Harbor Freight special 2 axis vise. Then after quick dash to Lowes get a new 5/8" drill bit (as my old ones where pretty much shot). I then realized that I could not drill out the holes with the dust shields on, so after punching out the rivet shaft and drilling out the rivet head the shields popped right off end ready to be drilled out. Now I was able to install the spindles and bolt on the new hubs, brakes and steering rack.

The bump-steer kit installed very easily and I just used enough spacers to align the steering arm with the a-arm. (do not have the fancy measuring kit from MM, so this was my best guess to minumizing bump-steer).

I then installed the MM coil over kit over a set of yellow Koni's (86-93 struts). I had to use 2 of the large spacers to avoid the strut from hitting the shock tower. (i am using MM C/C plates, others my require a different spacer). Those slid in very easy and bolted back right into place with zero interferance with the a-arm or spindle.

Time for the new sway bar, after talking to Jack at MM he suggested using the Eibach 3510.310 sway bar. I also ordered their sway bar relocation kit, this will allow you to move the sway bar forward 1/2" or 1" depending on your a-arms. So after mocking everything up I used the 1/2" forward holes to keep the sway bar links in the most verticle position. I did not reuse the factory bushing brackets as Jack suggested that I use their 9-5168G bushing kit due to the relocation kit.

Finally I just had to re-instal the 13" cobra brake setup and the front suspension is all back together.

Enough with my rambling...on with the pictures.

[Unclesams_SVO]

So now comes the fun of figuring out what wheels to use. I want to run a staggered setup and I am thinking of 17x8 and 18x9 to give the car an aggressive look. My old wheels were 1999 GT wheels with 255/40/17 tires and they fit the new front suspension set up just fine. Now in the rear I have a 03 Cobra IRS with MM coil overs an I have read that a 9" wheel is about as big as you can go before running into issues. So out comes my trusty tape measure and flat edge and as long as I stay between 6"-6.3" of back spacing I "should" be good.

So now the search for wheels begins, finding ones that come in both 17" and 18" with the width and back-spacing spec's that I need. I am not wanting to go the "custom" route as my car fund is getting pretty low about now.

The tire size I am thinking is either 245 or 255 in the front and a 275 out back.

If anyone has any insight for front wheels with fox length a-arms and MM coilovers and an IRS in the back I am all ears. I have done a lot of interwebz reading on this matter but it is always goo to hear another opinion, as I do not want to order the wrong wheels.

Here is the finished front suspension picture and the MM coilovers with Koni yellow struts (the struts had to be machined to remove the metal dust shield, MM does this for about $60 total including shipping).

[MikeFleming]

IMHO you should put the rack in the lowest position possible, moving the weight lower on the chassis. That will also allow you to remove much of that rather excessive about of spacers in your bump steer kit.

Additionally you should revisit the bump steer settings - it's VERY critical to a proper handling car now that you have all the right pieces installed. Buy the MM kit (iirc it's less than $60) or fabricate your own.

If I remember later, I will post pics of the "shim stack" I have on the Red Baron along with the spreadsheet of measured bump steer vs shim stack height.

[Unclesams_SVO]

IMHO you should put the tack in the lowest position possible, moving the weight lower on the chassis. That will also allow you to remove much of that rather excessive about of spacers in your bump steer kit.

Additionally you should revisit the bumpsteer settings - it's VERY critical to a proper handling car now that you have all the right pieces installed. Buy the MM kit (iirc it's less than $60) or fabricate your own.

If I remember later, I will post pics of the :shim stack" I have on the Red Baron along with the spreadsheet of measured bump steer vs shim stack height.

I though it was better to have the rack pivot point in line with a a-arm pivot point to help reduce bump-steer. While reading the MM install tips I thought that they recommended mounting it as high as possible using their bushings on a lowered Mustang.

I will have to look at the MM bump-steer gauge again as well.

[Unclesams_SVO]

I am planning on going with 245/40/17 and 275/35/18 tires mounted on 17x8 and 18x9 wheels.


The tires will with be BFG sport-com 2 or Bridgestone RE670


These are the 2 wheels I have narrowed it down too.


Motegi Traklite (bronze) or Koni Oversteer (black)




I'm just waiting to hear back on a price quote, not quite sure which wheel I am leaning towards yet.....maybe the pricing will help tip the scale.

[MikeFleming]

^
You will spend way less time cleaning the 5-spoke wheel versus the other one.

[MikeFleming]

Pics & notes of my rack install and bump steer stuff using solid center-position rack mounts.
9235923892379236

And a chart of the actual change in steering vs the height of distance of the rack tie rod end to the bottom of the steering arm on the spindle. Testing over a 4.7" range of suspension movement using the following sizes of spacers/shims: 1.44", 1.20", 0.537", 0.475", 0.4175", & 0.2375". Plotting the smallest five, gives me this graph:
9239

The 0.537" spacer shim gives a total steering angle change of 0.008" over the full measured 4.7" range of vertical travel. The 1.44" spacer gave a total steering change of 0.644" (80 times higher!!) and was not included in the graph for brevity.

Spacer Steering change
1.44" -0.668"
1.20" -0.504"
0.537" - 0.008"
0.475" -0.154"
0.4175" -0.167"
0.2375" -0.268"

[MikeFleming]

Motegi Traklite (bronze) or Koni Oversteer (black) Looks very close the the 5-Zigen FN-1-R(c):

http://www.frsport.com/5Zigen-FN01RC-FN01R-C-17x8-Hot-Version-Wheel-Titanium-Bronze-Ti-BRZ_p_10321.html

Which I suspect are discontinued now.

[Unclesams_SVO]

Did you use the upper or lower a-arm holes in your K-member? Mine are in the upper holes that is why I set my rack in the highest offset holes of the MM bushing kit.

This is all uncharted territory for me as I have never gone this far in depth in a cars front suspension before. The picture I posted of the spindle had were not tightened up but I can see the difference between your setup and mine are still huge.

I also read the Hotrod story on how they used the MM bump-steer gauge to dial everything in on their Foxbody project, that made the MM instructions a little more clear (I am a visual person).

Oh and I went with the 5 spoke wheel only in black, hopefully my backspacing measurement skills did not fail me.

17x8 40mm offset = 6.07 BS
18x9 35mm offset = 6.38 BS

[MikeFleming]

I used the lower holes. Using the upper holes will lower the car (front end) by 1".

A good use for all that copper tubing laying around the shop to do test fitting.
9242
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[Under Pressure]

Excellent write up, details and pics. 5 spoke

[MikeFleming]

BTW - Getting bump steer height correct is a highly iterative process, not terribly dissimilar from corner balancing.

Get it close to start. After the car is fully assembled (at full weight) and shaken out, take it for a proper caster/camber/toe alignment. Note ANY change in caster will effect the steering arm height, thus changing the bump steer profile. Much less so with camber changes, but there is still *some* effect. After CC are set, re-test and adjust the bump height profile and then finally re-set toe.

NOTE: If bumpo steer is correct (close to perfect?) then changes in ride height will only effect static camber and toe.

[Unclesams_SVO]

For caster/camber setting I am leaning more towards "track" settings. The car will be a 30% track 70% cruising car. This will not be a DD car....and the tires will more likely get hard before they wear out (my RS3's did this :().

Going off of the racing thread on here I was going to go with:

Alignment-
Camber: -1.75
Caster : 3.5+ degrees
Toe: Out 1/16th

Or am I way out in left field?

For the IRS I am thinking about getting the MM dumpster kit now and checking that. For the IRS alignment do you have any setting suggestions?

[MikeFleming]

You should be able to get 5.5-6.0 Degrees of positive caster.

[Unclesams_SVO]

I take it "the more caster the better" when it comes to a foxbody and go with as much as I can get?

[MikeFleming]

I take it "the more caster the better" when it comes to a foxbody and go with as much as I can get? There are pluses and minuses. The more caster, the higher the self-centering effect and associated steering effort. Which can be a benefit on-track with the driving style that likes more caster.

There is also more camber change when the wheels are turned. So it kinda depends on wheels, suspension., tyres, driving style, etc.

Rethink - you've got the negative offset front a-arms, right? Then you'll probably not get much past 4 degrees caster. I have the standard arms and with the MM k-frame that gets my car to about 6 degrees. If I'd gone with the +0.75 forward offset arms, that would take my setup in the 8 degree range, iirc. Mercedes territory.

[Unclesams_SVO]

Correct I have the negative offset a-arms, but even 4* is better then my old setup. I know I could have gone with the zero offset arms I just didn't know if I wanted to do what was needed to make the tire clear and not rub.

[MikeFleming]

I'm using sn95 front spindles. the "non-offset" arms, 17x8 43mm offset wheels with 245/45/17 rubber and no clearance issues at all. Note I'm not running the plastic fender shields.

[Unclesams_SVO]

How does the wheel look in the wheel opening in the fender?

I know it sounds silly, but how it looks is almost as important as to how it performs for me. Just like "I want my cake and eat it too".

My setup up will be 99-04 Spindles, "neg offset" arms and 17x8 40mm offset with 245/40/17 tires

[Unclesams_SVO]

I installed my oil catch can today.


The can is a Jegs brand aluminum catch can with 2 ports. I used one for the valve cover breather and one for the crank case breather.


For the valve cover I ditched the factory oil separator and replaced it with a 1/8" fitting 90* barbed fitting (found at O'Reillly's) and used 5/16" vacuum line to the catch can (I had the tap the valve cover to thread in the new fitting). For the crank case I ditched the PCV valve and the 90* factory hose and replaced it with 3/4" heater hose plumbed to the catch can.


The saddest thing about this setup are the AN fittings, combined they cost more then the can, hoses, and valve cover fitting. I used and 10AN o-ring fitting with a 90* 10AN 3/4" barbed fitting for one side and a 10AN to 6AN fitting with a 6AN to 3/8" barbed fitting. For the vacuum line I know I used 2 different sized fittings but the line was able to stretch enough to work.


I mounted the catch can out of the way in the fender behind the drivers side headlight and attach the drain to the bottom of the can. This way it is easy to get to and drain when needed.


I also installed a 14" limiting strap from the frame to the engine. Since the engine dampers can not be used with the MM K-Member I figured that this was a good alternative to help with engine moment under hard throttle.


Now on with the pictures.

[MikeFleming]

A few cokments:

1. You should have two (2) ~3/4" vents - one for the crankcase and the other for the cam cover. Unless your rings don't leak, in which case you should stay with the stock system. If there is lots of blow-by (the reason for catch cans), then large, low-restriction flow paths are hte most desirable.

2. Heater hose is NOT rated to handle petroleum products and will not live long handling oil and fuel/petrol vapors. Neoprene, viton, etc. are the preferred materials.

3. I'm mixed n the strap. The factory dampers, when functional, help at all levels of engine vibration and don't suddenly go infinite when the engine rocks over beyond a specific angle. Where the strap contributes nothing until it's tight (normal engine vibs & non-extreme angles), and the strap spring rate goes near infinite when it is.

[Unclesams_SVO]

Thanks for the comments, I will look into the different hose (this is all I could find locally). I'm not sure how much blow by the car has but I am not a fan of having oil go in the intake track, so the stock setup is history. I will se how this does and if the oil dip stick pops out again then I will change the valve cover breather to a 3/4" size.

The strap idea I just saw recently, while I am not sure how much movement the engine will have now with the new motor mounts (the old ones were trashed and let the engine risk a lot) I figured I would give it a try....worse case it does not really do what I intended and I am out about $20 bucks.

[Unclesams_SVO]

I tinkered a little bit on the car today. I installed a front tow point, layed out some of the engine harness to see how to route it (hiding as much of the harness as I can without cutting or splicing the harness), then I installed the rear coli-overs (they were just mocked up for wheel measurements before).

For the tow point I used the same Sparco tow strap as the rear. I made a small "L" bracket out of plate steel and attached it behind the passenger side fog light on the subframe using 2, 1/2" grade 8 bolts. I then drilled a hole on the top of the bracket and attached the tow strap to it. Hopefully this will be a strong enough tow point as well as keeping a clean appearance to the car when the tow point is not needed. My biggest worry is either damaging the fog light or the bumper cover during a recovery.

For the coil-overs I used the Maximum Motorsports kit with a 600 lb/in spring all mounted on a 03/04 Cobra Yellow Koni shock. When using MM's kit you will need to have the metal dust boot on the Koni shock removed. If you buy the shock from MM they will do this for you. I did not do that, so I had to ship my shocks out so MM could remove the dust boot and machine the shaft of the shock to the right specs for the top spring mount. I had to massage the drivers side inner fender well "out" so the spring did not rub on it (easily done with a pair of channel locks). The biggest PITA about installing the coil-over kit is removing the bushings on the shocks in order to replace them with the MM bushings. I ditched the factory lower shock bolts and replaced them with grade 8 hardware. I did not take any tire measurements before I tore everything apart because I am not putting the same wheel/tire combo on.

Anyways, on with the pictures.

[Unclesams_SVO]

My wheels came in today.

They are 18x9 35mm rear and 17x8 43mm front Motegi Traklites. I test fitted the wheels today and all is good. I could have almost gone with a 10" wide wheel in the rear but I am more then happy with a 9" wheel. The front is about as tight as I would want to go, if they had the option I would have gone with a 40mm offset wheel instead of the 43mm offset. This is because of the clearance between the wheel lip and the MM Coil-over spring. As far as clearing the sway bar or control arm I do not know yet, as I still need to set the bump-steer and toe before I find that out.

Any ways on with the pictures.

[Under Pressure]

Nice wheels, are those 2 piston calipers?

[Unclesams_SVO]

Nice wheels, are those 2 piston calipers?

Yes, they are 13" rotors and PGR cobra brakes.

[Unclesams_SVO]

I got the tires mounted this morning (I was too excited/nervous to wait). They fit without any rubbing, however the inside of the front tire is really close to the front coil spring. Not sure if I am going to have to find a really small spacer or not, only time will tell once I get the car back on the road.

[MikeFleming]

Kinda depends on what "really close" means in, say, inches or mm??

Naturally it will get closer to the spring (the strut body is almost never an issue) when under full-load deflection of the tyre and wheel (both will move).

On my car i slotted the upper strut-to-spindle mount hole for more clearance as I thought it was a bit too close static (then made up the difference using the camber adjusters). There's pics around somewhere nbut a quick search didn;t show them.

[Unclesams_SVO]

I would say there is a mm or 2 between the tire and spring. I found a pair of 3mm spacers on MM website that I will be ordering, as I am pretty sure once I start turning the car hard the tire will contact the spring.

[Laredo]

I have found that this space is pretty stable. I have only a 3 mm gap between the tire and my coil-over, even with mostly autocross use it has never rubbed. I was actually kinda surprised after seeing the crazy flexing of the lower side of the tire on the Go-Pro that the top side of the tire itself was remarkably stable. The space between the tire and the fender obviously changes quite a bit with suspension travel/flex of hard driving and can get really close to the tire, which is why I pulled the tire inward as far as possible. Plus I don't like the look of the wheel sticking out beyond the fender edge.

**Testimonial is not claimed to represent all results. Individual results may vary. ;)

[Unclesams_SVO]

Laredo......that is good to know. I ordered the MM 1/8" (3mm) spacers yesterday as a "just encase". I looked again and I bet I am closer to 1mm of clearance between the tire and spring.

[MikeFleming]

I looked again and I bet I am closer to 1mm of clearance between the tire and spring. So about a spark plug gap then?

IMHO that's at least 5mm too close.

Here's some pics of the clearance I measured on my initial setup using 2001 & 2005 Mustang wheels - 17x8, 162mm (~6.377") backspacing on the 2005. Same backspacing as my new [at the time] FN01-R in 17x8 43mm offset.

2001 Mustang wheel gives about 0.9" clearance to the strut. All measurements from the lip of the wheel without tyres. With a 245/40 that would - static - take away about 10mm.
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2005 Mustang Wheel (162mm/6.377" backspacing) gives about 14mm clearance to the strut.
9278

Rear quad (2005 wheel):
9279

Front strut body:
9280

I decided to elongate the upper strut mount using my trusty mill and angle table. This mod gave me another 7mm of wheel-to-strut body clearance.
928192829283


This gave me a few degrees of rotation while the lower part of the strut body welds make contact with the ball joint boss of the spindle. More grinding and fitting required to get the strut/spindle to allow the max clearance setting.

9284

Final installation. Blue masking tape is temporary fitment later replaced with wire ties. to route/mount various locations of the brake cooling hoses.
9276

[Unclesams_SVO]

My spring is a lot lower then yours. How many shims did you use on the top of the spring hat. The spring interference maybe part of my issue as well. Right now you can fit probably 3 credit cards stacked together between the tire and spring, the tires ballooned out a little more then I thought. I did not take measurement pictures of just the wheel mounted, but I could fit my finger tip between the wheel lip and the spring.

[MikeFleming]

I have 10" springs and no shims at the top - just the bearing retainer stack. Move the weight all the way to the chassis.

[Unclesams_SVO]

Have you had any clearance issues with the spring and the shock towers?

[MikeFleming]

Have you had any clearance issues with the spring and the shock towers? None.

[Unclesams_SVO]

I will have to take those spacers out then and see where what happens.

[Unclesams_SVO]

I got the 3mm spacers from Maximum Motorsports today. I think they were just what I needed. They brought the tire away from the spring, but not too much as I can still tuck the tire in the wheel well.

Attached are the pictures of the spacer, the new tire clearance and what the car currently looks like.

[MikeFleming]

That looks pretty close to me. How long are your springs?

BTW - You can save a LOT of weight, per corner, by going to aluminum lugnuts [over those extremely heavy stock SVO ones].

[Unclesams_SVO]

The springs are the 10" MM ones (300 lb), I do have new gorilla lug nuts for the car, just did not screw them on for the picture.

[MikeFleming]

So the spring adjusters are all the way down (spring unloaded)??

[Unclesams_SVO]

So the spring adjusters are all the way down (spring unloaded)??

Yes, and I still have spacers between the C/C plates and the spring hat. I figured I would go with the "worst case" scenario when I measured for the wheel back spacing.

[fastsvo]

I got the 3mm spacers from Maximum Motorsports today. I think they were just what I needed. They brought the tire away from the spring, but not too much as I can still tuck the tire in the wheel well.

Attached are the pictures of the spacer, the new tire clearance and what the car currently looks like.
Wow, those wheels look good!

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

[Unclesams_SVO]

Thank you.

[8T6 SVO]

Damn I need to get back to work on mine. But it won't be until December.

Meotchh - It's December....

Unclesam - your car is a beautiful thing! Thanks for all the pictures.

[Unclesams_SVO]

I installed the new FMIC today.

I ordered this universal intercooler kit from amazon, it came with pretty much everything you need to install it. This kit has 3" piping but you can get them in a smaller diameter if you are still using the stock SVO throttle body.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044PSBN0/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

I am surprised on how well this intercooler fits between the bumper cover and radiator, it is almost like it was designed for an SVO. I only had to trim the bumper cover a little (by each fog light) and remove the fog light bracket braces. The intercoolers overall measurements are 30.75" x 11.75" (top to bottom and from the outer edge of each pipe opening).

There are 4 threaded mounting bungs (2 on the top and 2 on the bottom) on the intercooler. To install it in the car, I drilled 2 holes in the fog light support bracket and placed 2 spacers (that came in the kit) between the I/C and the fog light bracket to align the I/C with both the upper and lower openings in the bumper cover. To support the top of the I/C I made 2 brackets from some flat bar aluminum (found at Home Depot or Lowes). I made them using a hand held torch to heat it up allowing me to bend the aluminum (with out cracking it), then I drilled a couple holes in them and secured those to the top of the I/C and the radiator support.

The I/C plumbing should clear everything behind the bumper cover now. I will need to move the fog lights forward about an inch, I think there is enough of the fog light bracket left so I can just drill a new mounting hole. If not, I will have to make a bracket on the top of the fog light opening and mount the fog light upside down.

I also have to rethink my front tow point now, as the I/C piping is going to be routed right where the bracket I made for the tow strap is located.

My goal is to make the I/C and I/C piping as clean as possible, so someone that is not familiar with SVO's thinks the car came with a FMIC from the factory.

[Unclesams_SVO]

Unclesam - your car is a beautiful thing! Thanks for all the pictures.

Thank you kind sir :cool:

[MikeFleming]

You've been really busy this season.

Some very nice progress.

[Unclesams_SVO]

My goal is to bring the car to the Knotts show this spring, at this rate hopefully I can make it.

[JTurbo]

Looks good. I'm looking forward to seeing the plumbing to and from the IC.....

[Unclesams_SVO]

It will be coming from under the frame rails and turning up towards the turbo an intake.

I have a custom "homebrew" rotated upper.

[tommyb]

You have a nice looking project here fun to see the fast progress and results lots of cars are going to the black wheels now but your's looks really nice you make me want to spend $$$. Thanks for sharing

[Unclesams_SVO]

I was going to go with a bronze wheel but I changed my mind and went with the black ones because of all the black accents on the car.

[brsvo]

Never saw an upper intake like that, what is it off of?

[Unclesams_SVO]

Never saw an upper intake like that, what is it off of?


4.6 2V from a 99-04 Mustang.

[brsvo]

I take it you made an adapter plate to mate it to the stock lower.

[Unclesams_SVO]

I take it you made an adapter plate to mate it to the stock lower.

Yes I did, out of a block of 1" aluminum.

[JTurbo]

Very nice, are you going to run AC on the car?

[Unclesams_SVO]

No more A/C, my alternator is now located where the a/c compressor use to be.

[JTurbo]

Got it, thanks. That makes the IC plumbing much easier.....

[Unclesams_SVO]

Here is a picture of where the alternator is now (old picture, the I/C is now in the bumper). I used Ranger brackets to relocate it.

[Unclesams_SVO]

For the fan I used a Ford Contour dual Electric Fan unit (found at my local junkyard for $60, they can be found on Ebay as well), it has dual 2 speed fans (with the second speed controlled by a thermostat located in the fan shroud. It fit the radiator so well one would almost think it was made for a Mustang. The radiator is NOT a SVO or even a Foxbody radiator, it is an aluminum after market one made for a 94-98 Mustang (craigslist find, and the price was right). This radiator has 2 mount posts on each side, I used these to mount the e-fan housing to the radiator (you could also use those "zip-tie" style fasteners to mount the fan shroud to the radiator). Aside from making a small bracket for the drivers side the fan assy. dropped right in.

For the wiring harness that came with the fans, I took the covering all apart so I could eliminate part of the harness that went to the A/C system in the Contour. I made sure to take as much of the harness and clips from the donor car so I could make these fans look like they belong in the car. A quick coat of paint and some new wire loom and the fans look brand new. Once I get the rest of the under hood wiring sorted out I will hook them up to the factory fan harness as well as an aux power source for when the fans need that second speed thanks to this wonderful desert heat in the Las Vegas summer.

I am also running a 3g alternator ( mounted where the A/C compressor used to be) since my old one gave up the ghost a few years back. So powering these fan will not be a problem.

Here are the pictures.

[Unclesams_SVO]

I mocked up the I/C piping along with a BOV .

With the new inter cooler location I had to run new piping and redo the CAI in the fender (since the VAM is no longer needed with the PIMP ECU). I used the 3" piping that came in the universal I/C kit and I wanted to keep everything symmetrical (damn OCD) and as out of the way as I could get it. Right now everything is mocked up, I know there are a few blue couplings in the pics but those will be swapped out for black ones (again damn OCD).

Now for the BOV, it also came in the I/C kit along with a 3" pipe with the flange. I'm sure is a genuine Chinese knock-off.....but I was not sure about running a BOV so I just went with this el-cheapo one. If I like using one I will upgrade to a proper BOV in the future. It is not hooked up, I just wanted to see how it looked and if I could hide it since the housing is purple.

For the CAI I used the same 3" piping and ran it to where I wanted the air filter located.

Here are the pictures.

[MikeFleming]

Similar to my advice given here to Vince:

http://www.svocop.com/forum/showthread.php?2158-quot-The-quot-Racecar-Build&p=29507&viewfull=1#post29507

I highly suggest you slightly enlarge that hole in the fender where this hose passes and install a grommet. Eventually the assorted vibrations and sharp edges of the inner fender sheet metal will cut into the hose.
93169317

You can get some reinforced rubber-like thin-wall vacuum hose (fuel line has too thick a wall) and slit it lengthwise, then stuff it into the hole, trimming the ends of the hose to cover all of the exposed metal edge. The thin-wall silicon hose is easier to cut and keep the cut straight but it won't last as long as a fiber-reinforced hose material.

Just a suggestion.

[Unclesams_SVO]

Similar to my advice given here to Vince:

http://www.svocop.com/forum/showthread.php?2158-quot-The-quot-Racecar-Build&p=29507&viewfull=1#post29507

I highly suggest you slightly enlarge that hole in the fender where this hose passes and install a grommet. Eventually the assorted vibrations and sharp edges of the inner fender sheet metal will cut into the hose.


You can get some reinforced rubber-like thin-wall vacuum hose (fuel line has too thick a wall) and slit it lengthwise, then stuff it into the hole, trimming the ends of the hose to cover all of the exposed metal edge. The thin-wall silicon hose is easier to cut and keep the cut straight but it won't last as long as a fiber-reinforced hose material.

Just a suggestion.

That does make sense and I have some left over edge molding from another project that will probably work.

[Under Pressure]

Nice work, the metal looks good in the engine bay.

[Unclesams_SVO]

I finished up the I/C piping, moved the fog lights forward, continued with the wiring tucking project and started on laying out the fuel system.

I took Mr. Flemming's advice and put a barrier between the I/C coupling and the fender. I used door edge molding (found at just about any parts store), I did NOT have to enlarge the opening for the 3" coupling to my surprise....everything fit like it was made to go there. I then painted the BOV pipe black and installed all the coupling clamps. With the FMIC piping going right where the factory fog lights were mounted I had to move them forward. Luckily there was enough material from the fog light mounting bracket to move the fog lights forward about an inch, this let me clear the I/C piping and still retain the fog lights.

I picked up a relay cover from www.LMR.com (http://www.LMR.com) with hopes of covering up the coil and relay, but thanks to my strut bar that did not happen. Instead I moved the stock relay down and I was able to hide all of the wiring going to the relay and tuck the cover under the coil by cutting the cover up a little. I then installed the battery tray and battery along with the washer fluid reservoir just to make sure everything still fit as it should.

Now for the fuel system, I am replacing everything but the tank. I installed the new fuel rail to make sure it fit (I had to file down a part of the throttle body cable cam as it hit the fuel rail). Then found a place to mount the fuel pressure regulator (I flattened out the bracket that came with the FPR and drilled a 1/2" hole so I could mount it to the car using the Maximum Motorsports strut bar hardware). Then I drilled a couple holes behind the passenger side shock tower so I could mount the firewall AN fittings.

On with the pictures.

[baltimucho]

Absolutely fantastic!

[MikeFleming]

Now for the fuel system, I am replacing everything but the tank. Why stop there? You should replace the tank too.

( I just happen to have a new one in a box in my shop that I'm not gonna use. It's all shiny. Hint, hint. )

[Unclesams_SVO]

Why stop there? You should replace the tank too.

( I just happen to have a new one in a box in my shop that I'm not gonna use. It's all shiny. Hint, hint. )

My tank was in very good condition, it just needed some freshening up.

See :cool:

[Unclesams_SVO]

Got the proportioning valve plug from MM (so I can remove the guts from the valve) and a Ford Racing proportioning valve. I should have everything now to finish the brakes and re flush them. But first I need to finish up the fuel system.

I made some good head way today on installing the fuel system in the car. The fuel rail and fuel nozzles (60 lb/hr- 683cc/min-Siemens) are from Stinger Performance, the rest of the fitting I got from Summit Racing and So Cal Speed Shop (closest speed place to me in Vegas). I was not able to use the spot for the sending unit on the fuel rail due to my upper intake and throttle body (will not be a problem if you are using the factory upper) these are easily filled with 1/8" and 1/4" plugs. Lucky for me they make an AN fitting adapter with a spot for a sending unit. I am going to have to get creative if I want to keep the schrader valve tho (I might drill and tap the plug on the FPR and install it there).

I started bending the steal 3/8 fuel line that will run from the inner fender to the FPR (man that stuff is a pain to bend with my hand held bender) I have a feeling I may be buying more line since I have already had a couple "oops, sh*t" moments. As far a flaring the ends can anyone recommend a flaring tool? The one I am using is not working and is marring up the tube where it gets clamped down. I have a feeling that running the hard lines are going to take me longer then I planned.

I also installed a new cap, rotor, plugs and wires on the car and finished installing the engine harness and hiding or tucking everything I could out of the way.

[MikeFleming]

Are you double-flaring your brake lines? Does that work with the tool you have now? Doing 45 degree SAE flares?

Most hardware store flare sets are good enough for sift copper, barely able to work at all with mild (soft) steel and not at all with 304/316. There are better sets available though - try Graingers or Napa.

Those injectors are ugly. Couldn't you find anything in red?

[Unclesams_SVO]

I am trying to flare 3/8" steel fuel lines, but my el cheapo flaring tool is not up to the task, I am putting AN fittings on the lines. I have found the Eastwood one and it is on sale.....but man after you get the tool and 37* die you are at $300.

[MikeFleming]

... but man after you get the tool and 37* die you are at $300. Yes, the life of the custom metal fabricator is indeed expensive.

[Unclesams_SVO]

Yes, the life of the custom metal fabricator is indeed expensive.

Then add the MM bumpsteer tool cost and I will be creeping close to $500 in tools :eek: But hey, at least I will have them forever. ;)

[MikeFleming]

Then add the MM bumpsteer tool cost and I will be creeping close to $500 in tools :eek: But hey, at least I will have them forever. ;) Now, honestly. What else were you gonna do with the money?? Besides beer, pizza, hookers and blow, of course.

A nice bore gauge set maybe? A set of metric bottoming taps? A rod bolt stretch gauge? A Magnaflux machine? How about a Rockwell hardness tester? A four-gas exhaust gas analyzer?

Just thinking out loud here.

[Unclesams_SVO]

Now, honestly. What else were you gonna do with the money?? Besides beer, pizza, hookers and blow, of course.

A nice bore gauge set maybe? A set of metric bottoming taps? A rod bolt stretch gauge? A Magnaflux machine? How about a Rockwell hardness tester? A four-gas exhaust gas analyzer?

Just thinking out loud here.

Those are all solid options.....I do have a soft spot for cold pizza for breakfast.

[Unclesams_SVO]

I made a tubing straightener today. Since I am replacing the fuel system I figured that I was going to need one. After looking online at them and not wanting to spend $200-300 bucks for one I came up with my own using some rollers, plate steel and some hardware. All in, I am at $30 for the tool.


I also went Junk yard diving to find a throttle cable bracket so I could finish up installing the throttle body. I moved the vacuum block as well, it is no longer on the firewall, it is now mounted behind the drivers side shock tower.

[MikeFleming]

You're gonna need a longer (deeper?) garage. Or maybe some sawhorses in the driveway?

[Unclesams_SVO]

You're gonna need a longer (deeper?) garage. Or maybe some sawhorses in the driveway?

There is a side door just to the left of the compressor. It will be fun straightening the fuel line for the fuel tank.

[rodster]

You're gonna need a longer (deeper?) garage. Or maybe some sawhorses in the driveway?

Or a small hole in the wall, through the living room, into the kitchen and out the side of the house. Oh honey, while you are making supper could you grab that fuel line? :D

Nice tool by the way..... I'm talking about the tubing straightener. :cool:

[Unclesams_SVO]

I installed a FRPP brake proportioning valve and gutted the stock valve.

First I want to start off talking about doing a double flare. With an "El-Cheapo" Harbor Freight tool they are damn near impossible to do a good double flare every time. So I got off my wallet and picked up an Eastwood Professional flaring tool. Now it is not cheap, but I would rather spend the money now instead of banging my head against the wall by chasing down leaks and redoing things over and over. Another good option is the Rigid flaring tool. The Eastwood de-burring tool is also pretty sweet, as it does both the inside and outside of the tube. This gives you a nice finished end to then flare.

9346

Anyways, enough rambling.

I started by removing the factory proportioning valve guts and replacing them with a plug from Maximum Motorsports. I also re did the brake lines going from the master cylinder (93 Cobra) to the proportioning valve (just to give my hands a little more space during any maintenance).

9347

9348

9349

Then I installed the FRPP proportioning valve on the passenger side where there is a line break from the factory. I just rebent the lines to place the valve how I wanted it (nothing else was needed for the install as the factory lines just screwed right into the valve). Since the valve is not bolted down I added a clamp in the fender well to help secure the brake lines better.

9350

I may move the valve before I completely finished still undecided.

[Unclesams_SVO]

I also finished up with the fuel system under the hood (minus clamping everything in place). At first I was a little nervous about making my own lines, but after a lot of youtube research I figured I would give it a try. First I picked up a set of aluminum vise clamps to hold the hose and fittings during assembly (I got these off of amazon). Second I bought a tubing cutter (got from Home Depot), man I am glad I bought these as they cut through the tubing like nothing and gave me a clean square cut.

9355

I used 6AN summit racing fittings and 3/8" hose. I have read that you do not want to mix brands of hose and fitting as they can be different sizes and may leak.

First place the hose in the vise, then make a fresh cut on the hose.

9351

Now separate the fittings and place the female piece on the end of the hose. Install it by rotating the fitting counter clock wise until the fitting bottoms out on the hose.

9352

At this point I loosened the vise and placed the fitting in the clamp to get ready for the next step. Grab the male fitting an lubricate the end ( I used spit, instead of oil) before you go to install it.

9353

Hand tighten the male fitting as far as you can (this will make sure that the treads are not crossed and that the two parts are threading together properly). Lastly I grabbed a 6AN wrench (got from Summit Racing) and tightened the male fitting until it was tight. That is it, easy enough.

9354

[Unclesams_SVO]

Them measure your line and do the same thing on the other end. This line will go from the return side of the fuel rail to my fuel pressure regulator.

9356

I have to finish making my DIY pressurizing setup to ensure the lines to do leak before I put fuel in them I will talk about that when I am finished with the entire fuel system.

[Unclesams_SVO]

In order to figure out how the layout the hard fuel lines I needed to partially install the fuel tank. I had to drop the IRS subframe to install the tank and to make it easier to run the new hard lines. I also need to figure out where to mount the new inline fuel filter, as the factory location is impossible to get at with the IRS installed.

9358

I only secured the drivers side strap so I can still get me hand in the passenger side in order the measure and then install the flex lines.

9357

[Under Pressure]

That's cool!

[MikeFleming]

I have never beaten myself up for buying a special tool that I used more than once (as for buying the car(s) that needed all those special tools, that's a different matter entirely). IMHO most special tools make my hammers last longer too.

[Unclesams_SVO]

Agreed, this car has me buying tools that I have never needed before. But with a Pace Car being my next project I am sure they will all be needed again. Now I am just waiting for my next MM order to get that bumpsteer tool.

[Jack Hidley]

You mentioned earlier in the thread that you replaced the lower shock to LCA bolts with grade 8 models. I would undo this change.

The Ford bolts are 14mm grade 9.8. This is 0.55" diameter. If you install an SAE bolt in here, then it is 0.5". This is greatly reducing the cross sectional area of the bolt and possibly allowing it or the sleeve to move around. If you drilled out the LCA and crush sleeve to 0.562" for a 9/16" bolt, that could work, but make sure that the crush sleeve isn't being deformed, which it will be if you torque the new bolt to 70% of its yield strength.

[Unclesams_SVO]

Thank you for the advice, I will have to look for those bolts, or go junk yard diving for them. I did notice some play during the assembly but did not realize what kind of impact that would have.

[MikeFleming]

Those bolts and nuts are still available from your local Ford dealer. Strut to spindle and a-arm to k-frame.

[Unclesams_SVO]

Those bolts and nuts are still available from your local Ford dealer. Strut to spindle and a-arm to k-frame.

Thank you for the info, now I need to get back to working on the car.

[MikeFleming]

... now I need to get back to working on the car. No rest for the wicked.

[Unclesams_SVO]

More parts showed up thanks to MM flash sale. They just happen to be some of the parts that I needed, so it was like a match made in heaven.

The following are now awaiting install:

- IRS Adjustable Complete Tie Rod Kit / MMIRSTR-2

- IRS Sway Bar End Link Set / MMRSB-94

- IRS urethane swaybar bushings / 6-1157-BL

- Low Profile IRS Subframe Bolts / MMF-1

As well as a new tool

- Bumpsteer Gauge / MMT-4 (gotta love the reduced price when ordered with the tie rod kit)

Now to get these installed so I can finished up the fuel system and install the gas tank.

[Unclesams_SVO]

Here is a long over due update on the SVO. Do not worry, I have not lost interest in it....momma wanted a new kitchen so momma got one. We have spent the last 18-ish months remolding the kitchen (ourselves) so the Mustang had to be put on hold. Today I happy to say that I got to work on the car again. I installed the IRS sway bar bushings, end-links, and bump-steer kit. I removed the IRS as it made the upgrades way easier and allowed me to start making the new 3/8" fuel Ines. I was only able to finish 1 fuel line today as I had no idea how time consuming they are to make and how much of a pain 3/8" steel fuel line is to work with.

Well, I ran out of space to post pictures, can someone tell me what I need to do to increase my storage size or link a picture?

[MikeFleming]

Well, I ran out of space to post pictures, can someone tell me what I need to do to increase my storage size or link a picture? Well, first you have to be banned. For not posting in a year. Then you have to know someone important like Pat or Mitch. Then you have to consume a beer.

That usually works for me.

[Unclesams_SVO]

Hmmm, BBF? banned, beer, friend. :D

[MikeFleming]

Yeah, that's it - BBF.

Post away.

[Unclesams_SVO]

Thank you sir!!

[Unclesams_SVO]

A kitchen teaser pic as well.

[Unclesams_SVO]

Well I almost finished up the fuel lines today, that is until I decided to re-route the lines to tuck them up a little more after checking tire clearance. Then I broke one of my fittings trying to remove it because I made the braided line a little too long. On the bright side I am done with the hard lines. I also relocated the fuel filter as I do not want to have to drop the IRS every time I need to change it. I used a filter from a 98 Cobra that worked better with the AN adapters and fit nicely in front of the fuel tank filler neck (I will install a guard of some sort to keep road debris from messing it up). I am not sure I am a fan of having the return line hanging so low, I may look into a different clamp setup to tuck it up higher. Anyways on with the pictures......

[Unclesams_SVO]

Well I finished up the hard lines today....or so I thought. Before I installed the fuel filter I wanted to double check that the lines would clear the IRS control arms. Well some of them do, but some do not when I fully cycle the control arms. Looks like I was not quite as far as I thought I was. On the plus side, I finished up the front fuel lines in the wheel well and to finish under the hood I have to order a 45* 6AN fitting and all will be done under the hood. I figured while the IRS was still out I would replace the rotors and pads...easy right. Well with adding the EBC green stuff pads and Centric rotors everything was too thick for me to re-install the calipers. Not sure what I did wrong (all the correct part numbers for a 03-04 Cobra). So I have to re-install the old pads (about 30 miles on them) and everything went back together after a little persuasion.

Here are the parts numbers I used

Centric Rotors 120.61046

EBC Green Stuff Pads DP21156

[MikeFleming]

Yep - EBC adds a "special cleaning" layer of grit to "prepare the rotor surfaces" for their pads. And it's ~2mm thick on each pad.

My personal experience with EBC pads is they're a total waste of time, money and labor. Used a set of yellows on the EVO as a track pad. They were soooo bad (overheated in 2 laps!) that I gave all the sets of them I had away. They'd probably be OK for mild street use but there are many other less expensive pads available that do that much better than EBC.

[Unclesams_SVO]

Yep - EBC adds a "special cleaning" layer of grit to "prepare the rotor surfaces" for their pads. And it's ~2mm thick on each pad.

My personal experience with EBC pads is they're a total waste of time, money and labor. Used a set of yellows on the EVO as a track pad. They were soooo bad (overheated in 2 laps!) that I gave all the sets of them I had away. They'd probably be OK for mild street use but there are many other less expensive pads available that do that much better than EBC.

What would be a better choice then?

[MikeFleming]

For track pads (850-1100F operating range)? Do you like low pedal pressure (high friction pad) or high (low friction compounds)?

In the high friction pad arena I like the Carbotech XP12 front and XP10 rear (flavor to taste). IMHO they're too high-friction for street use (or sand or gravel) - like 10 Lbs pedal for 0.5G stop force makes them kinda touchy wren cold. That levels out after they heat up on track though. The 12 is a hotter compound than the 10.

Lots of folks like the Raybestos ST43 compound for track use also.

[Unclesams_SVO]

I would rather have a middle of the road to high friction pad. I have had a car that took way to much pedal to stop (no air in the lines) and I have had one that would have your head smack the steering wheel if you were not paying attention. If I had to choose I would rather smack my head vs' trying to "Flintstone" the car to stop.

[SVOfish]

What master cylinder and booster are you using with that brake setup?

[Unclesams_SVO]

What master cylinder and booster are you using with that brake setup?

I believe it is a 95 Cobra brake booster.

[Unclesams_SVO]

I am still plugging away at collecting parts. I am just wanting do to everything at once (vs' one thing, then another, then another, etc). So far (thanks to COVID sales) have added to following to my pile of parts.

I thought it was time to upgrade my tubing benders. I also bought a bead roller to modify my intercooler piping with hopes of preventing any of the silicone couplers from flying oof under boost.

I have been playing with the idea of replacing the distributor and going with an LS type of ignition system. Just not sure I want to spend the money on it right now.

I do have a Pimp ECU for all of the parts listed above as well, just not installed yet.

Anyways on with the pretty pictures of the go fast parts.



- Kevko aluminum valve cover
9967

- Esslinger cam bar, adjustable cam gear, tensioner, idler pulley, and associated parts
9968

- Bo-Port 1.5 cam, roller rockers, new valve springs, lifters
9969

- Ron Francis engine wiring harness
9970

- MRT hood strut kit
9971

[Unclesams_SVO]

- Stinger bi-wing brace
9972

- Tubing benders
9973

[Laredo]

Those are some puuurdy parts! :cool:

Thanks for the update!

[Unclesams_SVO]

I found picture of my console mod that I did years ago and thought I should add it here. I am not a huge fan of pillar pods and could not find anything that I liked so I made this before I noticed any aftermarket gauge holders for this area.


I used card stock to create a templet for the sheet metal, once I was happy with the fit I transferred and cut the metal. Placement of the stock switches and gauges to make it look as "stock" as possible was important to me. So once I was happy with the layout it was time to cut everything out.


I also used some PVC to angle the gauges towards the driver and added some black plastic to help add a little extra touch to the finished product.


I used the following Auto Meter gauges to help with that "factory" look as I thought these matched the factory gauges the best.


Boost 5903
Fuel Pressure 5963 (electronic sensor)


I also decided to make an ash try delete panel and add a little extra flare to it.


Now my next biggest dilemma is where to put my wideband, I would like it in a position that will be easy to see but also not hanging out in the open. Maybe I can modify as steering column pod and make it look like it was designed to be there.


Enough with the talking, on with the pictures.

[Art Vandelay]

I really like what you did with those console gauges. I bought the triple gauge console from LMR, but now I need to decide what to do with the factory switches. I'm thinking of 3d printing a piece that will fit in the ashtray location, but I've never designed a 3d printed part before.

[Unclesams_SVO]

Thanks, the only bad thing about the ash tray when it comes to switches is that it is very shallow. I am re-wiring the entire car and would like to see if I can delete the console switches all together and incorporate them some where else to give me room for my wide-band gauge.

[Art Vandelay]

Yeah, my ash tray idea would be a wedge shape to elevate the switches to allow them to fit. I may just end up tucking them out of sight because I never use them. I didn't notice what you had in your radio slot, but 2 gauges fit in a radio delete panel with room to spare.

[Unclesams_SVO]

Another box of many awaiting my attention arrived the other day. I will say that this one probably has me the most worried, manly because it is not a complete kit with every connector. I may need to source what ever ones I can find the need to be replaced....or reuse the original ones and maybe just buy new pins so the only thing that I am reusing is the plastic clip.

The one thing a worries me over installing this kit is keeping the aging wiring in the car....even tho it has been stored inside most of its life wiring can cause a lot of gremlins. Once complete and paired with a new under hood harness for my PimpX I hope to rid the car of any possible future wiring issues.

It is a Ron Francis kit p/n XP-792 and I hope it will work with a SVO. (thanks to the x-mas sale I saved a couple bucks on this kit)

[Unclesams_SVO]

I am about to start tearing into the SVO again now that my work life has slowed down a little. I cannot wait to get behind the wheel of this thing again. I looked at the "new" oil filter I installed a while back and it was dated "Oct 2016". needless to say I need to get my sh!^ together and get this car back on the road. :hsrun:


Anyways here are a couple teaser pictures.... if you look really close you will see a turbo box that I have had for longer then I care to admit but excited to finally install.

10133

10134

[MikeFleming]

That looks like the exact same bench grinder I have.

[Unclesams_SVO]

I started the tear down yesterday, it went better then I thought it would. I was able to get it torn down to the short block in a couple of hours. My main goal was to bag and tag everything as a lot of new parts are going on the engine and I am not quite sure yet what will need to be reused (hardware, brackets, etc.). I also wanted to fit the new engine mounts to see how well they work with the MM k-member and not have a bunch of manifolds in the way.

Anyways on with some pictures.

Parts piling up from the tear down.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135638&d=1621880783

New specialty tools that made life way easier (www.company23.com (http://www.company23.com/))
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135631&d=1621879839

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135632&d=1621879857

Engine torn down and hanging from my Harbor Freight engine lift. (makes it really nice to work on the engine without a cherry picker in the way).

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135633&d=1621880119

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135634&d=1621880133

[Unclesams_SVO]

Mocking up the new engine mounts from (https://tbirdcougarparts.com (https://tbirdcougarparts.com/)), they are not cheap but they are also built very well and use poly vs' rubber thus deleting the weird engine mount shock.

There are a couple issues with the secondary smaller bolt when it comes to the MM k-member so I will have to drill a new hole on each side to prevent the mount from rotating on the k-member. Other then that I am happy I went this route over the factory mounts (even after buying the factory mounts a few years ago).

I am also able to level the engine right/left and fore/aft easily with these mounts, something I could not do with the factory mounts.

On with the pictures.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135635&d=1621880621

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135636&d=1621880638

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135637&d=1621880651

[Unclesams_SVO]

Today I had planned to install the oil pan and related oil system components, but reality got in the way. I did not expect everything to just slip into place but I was kinda hoping it would. With the planned racing events I want to do with the car I knew the stock oil pan needed to be upgraded, so I ordered one along with a pickup tube designed for the oil pan from Kevko Racing. It is baffled, has a crank scrapper and a windage tray along with a wider base to hopefully help with oil foaming.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135678&d=1622347585

Difference between stock a Kevko oil pan.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135680&d=1622347654

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135681&d=1622347713

It also allows me to relocate and replace the oil dipstick so I can upgrade it to a locking one (no more oil spraying under the hood during Auto-crossing). Tho the oil pan said it came with the correct sized NPT hole that was not the case, so I had to re-thread one of the bungs to accept the Moroso dip stick fitting.

Moroso P/N 25973

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135679&d=1622347628


I forgot that there are 2 different oil pan gaskets and of course I ordered the wrong one, so that was a nice speed bump in today's progress as I had to order one from the auto parts store.

Post Feb 1986 1 piece oil pan gasket (does not work with my 1986 SVO)
- P/N Fel-Pro OS-34211-R

Pre Feb 1986 4 piece oil pan gasket (with great sadness this is the route I am going)
- P/N Fel-Pro OS-30297-C

I also removed the factory crank case vent tube thing and replaced it with a part from Kevko that converts the outlet to a 12AN fitting.
- P/N K9104

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135677&d=1622347538

[Unclesams_SVO]

It was also kinda humbling when I went to tap the oil dip stick hole in the block and noticed the date on the "new oil filter" (10-16).

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135685&d=1622348490

Filling up the factory oil dip stick hole was pretty easy, I used a 1/8 NPT tap and then used a brass plug with some RTV to seal it up (I bought steel and brass just encase things did not go as planned).

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135682&d=1622348310

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135683&d=1622348330

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135684&d=1622348347

Another unexpected hurdle with the Kevko Oil Pan was the clutch cable. I had to make a new bracket to push the cable outboard to clear the oil pan. I used aluminum bar and metal shims to replicate the factory punting style as best as I could, I also bent the clutch gimbal on the transmission to help realign the cable. (I may have to tweak the gimbal bracket some more once I test everything out.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135686&d=1622348663

[Unclesams_SVO]

I got a little more done this weekend. First I won the battle with the oil pan and it is now installed along with a new pickup and dipstick. I also made a new dizzy hold down (for no other reason then it looks nicer to me).

Kevko Oil pan
- P/N F800W

Oil pickup for the above pan
- F800-1

Oil pan stud kit
- K813

I bought the stud for the oil pickup tube and then found out that the factory one works out just fine with the new pickup tube. I had some oil pan Reinforcement Rails that I got from another 2300 that worked great with this oil pan. I even had enough extra studs to swap out the hardware on the front main seal bracket "cuz racecar". The oil pan tucks up nicely above the K-member ensuring.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135698&d=1622556883

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135700&d=1622556918

The oil dipstick can be bent to your liking with a 3/8" tubing bender, I just mocked it into place for now and will do the final fitting once everything is installed.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135699&d=1622556901

I know it is not needed but I have been looking online for a aluminum dizzy hold down bracket since I could not really find anything I decided to make one using the old bracket as a template. I may hollow out the underside once a get a bit that will make that easier. I made it using some 1/4 aluminum stock I had left over from another project.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135701&d=1622557146

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135702&d=1622557162

[Unclesams_SVO]

Worked on the car some this weekend (not as much as I would have liked, but is was 107* today). Started on the heater line adapter for the thermostat housing. I want to switch the AN lines and get rid of the factory steel lines for a couple reasons.....1 my new turbo is not water cooled, 2 AN lines are nicer to look at and easy to fix/repair. I just need to get everything re assembled so I can figure out how I want to run the lines, but here it is mocked up with a Speedway thermostat housing.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135825&d=1625535983

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135826&d=1625536006

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135827&d=1625536029

[Unclesams_SVO]

I also tore into the dash to replace the factory engine harness with a Ron Francis one. While I was in there if figured this would be a good time to replace the heater core (even tho it really did not look bad). I also thought well since the engine bay it torn down this much I might was well unhook the chassis harness and think about repainting the engine bay.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135828&d=1625536307

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135829&d=1625536327

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135830&d=1625536367

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135831&d=1625536386

The real hero of the day!!

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135832&d=1625536425

[Unclesams_SVO]

So with my bad case of "while I am here" I decided that I should just repent the engine bay since everything else under the hood is going to look nice. Over the last few weeks I have been tearing everything out sanding prepping and painting the engine bay. I did not weld the holes up (mainly because I do not posses those skills), instead I bought some panels from Scott Rod Fab (http://scottrodfab.com (http://scottrodfab.com/)) finished in satin black and I think it will be a nice contrast under the hood.

Panels just mocked up to see how it will look, then realized that the SVO has a way different style hood latch setup then a regular 79-86 Mustang, so I am going to use this one for my Pace Car and order the panel with out the hood latch opening.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135968&d=1628086311

For the paint I went with the trusty ole rattle can of Rust-oleum primer and Duplicolor Silver 1E (the original color of my SVO). I used 3 cans of 1E and 1 can of Primer

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135969&d=1628086326

Here are pictures of cleaning masking off everything. I used simple green and a green scotch bite pad to scrub everything down, then I used a diluted soapy water solution to clean up the surface. Once dry I used Mass Airflow Sensor cleaner and a micro fiber cloth to wipe everything down. I used this method before priming and the paint laid down great with zero fish eyes. For the finish paint prep I smoothed out and then roughed up the surface with a dry scotch bite pad then cleaned everything up with soapy water then Mass Airflow sensor cleaner. I laid down 3 coats of paint and elected to not spray a clear coat to leave the engine bay "flat" compared to the exterior of the car.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135970&d=1628086369

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135971&d=1628086394

Primer

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135972&d=1628086411

[Unclesams_SVO]

I gave the primer a few days to fully harden before I laid the silver paint down.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135973&d=1628087006

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135974&d=1628087022

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135975&d=1628087038

Also painted the hinges (hood will get painted with the rest fo the car unless I decide to do some "special".

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135976&d=1628087097

[brsvo]

Looking good

[Unclesams_SVO]

So this next part was more of an "oh wow, I did not even know these existed" kinda thing. I am pretty sure I saw these on a thread on this forum and said, yep I need those.

When I installed my Maximum Motorsports coil-over kit I was puzzled as to why the spring could just fall out of the upper perch at full droop, so when I stumbled across these I ordered them that day from Summit Racing.

They are Hypercoil 4" Helper Springs and Eibach spring retainer. They are 2.50" in the front and 2.25" for the rear, I am running Koni Yellows with MM coil-over kit on all 4 corners. The spring and retainer are about .50" when fully compressed.

Front P/N
- Spring HYC-CS100
- Retainer EIB-Spacer250

Rear P/N
- Spring HYC-S0046
- Retainer EIB-Spacer225

I only did the front for right now as that is where most of my attention is on the car, I will do the rear when I drop the IRS to add a couple new parts to it and finish the fuel system.

Spring at Full droop

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135989&d=1628436722

Front spring and retainer

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135990&d=1628436756

Spring is now centered even at full droop.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135991&d=1628436773

My OCD was super excited when the spring colors matched http://vb.foureyedpride.com/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135992&d=1628436790

[Unclesams_SVO]

I started to install the Stifflers transmission cross member and Spyder kit. When looking at the cross member position per the instructions I may have to decide to keep the stock WC T-5 or upgrade to a TKO/TKX-500. That would be a big hit to my wallet, but then I would never really have to worry about the transmission again (especially with my new power level). So I just installed the main parts and will mock-up the cross bars to make sure nothing is in the way.

This is what I ended up ordering from (https://www.buystifflers.com (https://www.buystifflers.com/))

Cross member
- TCB-M09

Spider Brace
- SPD-M02

Lower Chassis Brace (works with aftermarket K-member)
- LCB-M03

Driveshaft Safety Loop
-DSL-M02

Energy Suspension transmission mount
- 4.1104 (recommended trans mount to use with this kit)

This is kinda how the bracing will work (I realize now that I am missing 2 bars in this picture that go from the cross member to the subframe connectors). Basically it triangulates the k-member, cross member and subframe connectors to stiffen everything up even more with out adding a whole bunch of extra weight.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135993&d=1628457155

Driveshaft loop bolts between the transmission mount and the transmission

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135994&d=1628457236

K-member brace works with the Maximum Motorsport K-member with out any issues.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135995&d=1628457295

A view of what is intsalled as I still need to mockup the cross bars and decide on what I want to do with the transmission.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135996&d=1628457360

[Unclesams_SVO]

I started mocking up my new radiator this weekend, it is a Mishimoto down flow (I wanted to reduce the amount of radiator hose length).
P/N Mishimoto MMRAD-MUS-79DP

Since my car has had a couple different radiators (my earlier self "modified" the lower radiator mount to work with a 95-98 Mustang radiator) I had to make something work. So I modified a set of old upper radiator mounts and bolted them to the lower core support, then I used a pair of Volvo upper radiator brackets and modified those to work with the Scott Rod Fab bumper cover. I thought about using a large Aluminum style top radiator cover.....but then where would I set my tools :Laugh out loud:

Ford Contour fan, LMR radiator side air deflector and new radiator.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136023&d=1629035918

Modified upper mounts (left is modified, right was how they came from Volvo)

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136024&d=1629036031

Radiator installed

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136025&d=1629036078

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136026&d=1629036170

[MikeFleming]

That thing is yuuugely wide!

[Unclesams_SVO]

That thing is yuuugely wide!

Being in the Southwest I wanted as much cooling as possible. :cool:

[Unclesams_SVO]

With installing a new radiator I needed to come up with another way to mount my Ford Contour electric fan. I decided to make my own mount since the pre made option available is more then I wanted to pay. I used 26ga sheet metal and some factory-ish looking hardware to make it look oem as possible.

10137


I also installed a LMR over flow tank (was not really liking my old setup that was mounted on the passenger inner fender).


10138


Here are a couple of progress photos that I took while making the fan mount.

10139

10140

[Unclesams_SVO]

Today I tacked replacing the valve train (I previously changed the valve seals out to I left those alone). On a side note the Esslinger rocker removal tool did not work with roller rockers from Bo-port...so that was a costly discovery http://vb.foureyedpride.com/images/smilies/icon_neutral.gif

I installed the following from Bo-port:

- 1.5 Cam
- Roller Rockers
- Hyd Lifters
- Dual rate springs
- Cam keeper bolts
- Cam seal
- Sprocket bolt
- Intake manifold studs, ARP exhaust bolts

10141

10142

10143

I thought about sending the head off to get bigger valves and a Stage-3 port job, but at this point I just want to get the car back on the road...maybe in the future I will go down that path depending and the final power numbers.

Teaser shot with the Kevko valve cover and Esslinger sprocket

10144

[Unclesams_SVO]

I installed a Mach 1 chin spoiler today, this is something I have been wanting to do for a while and I am happy with the results.

10145

10146

I had to use a heat gun and use masking tape to help reshape the spoiler (along with making relief cuts underneath).

10147

[Corrugated]

Looks great!

[brsvo]

I agree!

[Unclesams_SVO]

I finally installed the Scott Rod aluminum panels this weekend (for some reason I was psyching myself out over these), they went in fairly easy with some trimming here and there. I must say using kleko's makes a world of difference when I come to riveting.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136199&d=1632060149

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136200&d=1632060169

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136201&d=1632060192

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136202&d=1632060215

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136203&d=1632060235

[Unclesams_SVO]

I also started to reroute the body harness to tuck it behind the fenders, looks like I will only have to extend a couple wires which was a surprise to me. Once everything is laid out and extended I will wrap and secure the harness.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136204&d=1632060370

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136205&d=1632060387

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136206&d=1632060407

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136207&d=1632060427

I also need to decide on the routing of my new Ron Francis harness (right now I am thinking about running it behind the dash and cutting a new hole in the firewall next to the steering shaft.


http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136208&d=1632060567

[Unclesams_SVO]

The head is installed this weekend and found true TDC so I can adjust my timing pointer.

It is nice to see the engine as a long block, unfortunately I am still waiting on 2 more panels from Scott Rob Fab that go behind the shock towers so I can't go too much further as stuff will start getting in the way. But I can now mock up my new turbo, manifold and down pipe to see how that will all fit.

These are the parts is used:

-Felpro Head gasket - p/n 1035
-ARP studs - p/n 151-4202 (tel:151-4202)
-Comp Cams Crank socket - p/n 4793 (it is for a sbc, I had to mill a little bit of material from the inner bore and now it works great)

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136259&d=1633266674

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136260&d=1633266734

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136261&d=1633266760

Kevko Valve cover (it is sitting high because the stud nuts are u der the valve cover so I do not loose them).
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136262&d=1633266782

[MikeFleming]

I always mark the flywheel and block at the rear too - so there's a reference when the front pulleys / cover / pointer are not on the block.

[Unclesams_SVO]

I always mark the flywheel and block at the rear too - so there's a reference when the front pulleys / cover / pointer are not on the block.

I will make sure to do that, thank you for the idea.

[Unclesams_SVO]

Exhaust mock up time.


Gnari manifold
Gnari waste gate down pipe,
Tail 38mm waste gate
ARP bolts


I need to smooth out the bolt holes in the manifold as they are catching the bolts and then install the new turbo and down pipe to see if everything fits.

10148

10149

[Unclesams_SVO]

Test fitting more stuff.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136296&d=1633834222

[Unclesams_SVO]

I have plugging away still, just slacking on updates.

Mocked up the I/C plumbing and had to shorten the boot going to the new upper plenum so it would clear the strut bar. I also installed the adapter for the blow off valve. I was also trying to decide where to mount the coil packs.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136419&d=1636820658

This allowed me to see if the breather tank would fit in its new spot (mounted to the engine block), so I could shorten the plumbing needed.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136420&d=1636820695

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136421&d=1636820718

I also removed the oil cooler (I will see about adding a remote cooler if needed in the future). I am glad that the oil filter works just fin it is place. This also allows the new oil dip stick to have plenty of room.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136422&d=1636820744

[Unclesams_SVO]

I went to install the Esslinger water pump but the pulley did not line up. So after contacting them and finding out that the bully flange is only pressed on and that I could fix that on my own. This gave me another excuse to finally by a press http://vb.foureyedpride.com/images/smilies/1smile1.gif. The shaft is also larger which required me to bore out the hole in the pulley.

Here is the difference between the stock pump and the Esslinger one and how much I had to move the flange.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136423&d=1636821406

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136424&d=1636821427

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136425&d=1636821456

I used a button head bolt to push on the shaft and not the impeller and socket to push on the flange.


http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136426&d=1636821487

I used a button head bolt to push on the shaft and not the impeller.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136427&d=1636821552

[Unclesams_SVO]

I then went to install my new water neck and adapter that I made and found out it interferes with the water pump pulley. Since I did not need the pulley for the power steer pump.......out came the rotary tool to cut it off. I used the flange inside the pulley to make sure that I cut it off as even as I could.

The flange I made is to switch the heater lines to AN vs using the stock ones. Mainly because my new turbo is not water cooled, I deleted the oil cooler and will plug the intake so coolant does not flow into it.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136428&d=1636822190

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136429&d=1636822240

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136430&d=1636822262

[Unclesams_SVO]

I decided to mount the coil packs in the firewall. I made a plate that secures to the studs that hold the heater assembly. The brackets are ICT and fit the coil packs very well. I still need to make new coil wires (using the stock wires for mock up) I also need to run the harness and figure out how to hook it up. This kit also deletes the distributor cap and replaces it with a pickup wheel.

I will wrap the down pipe and turbo to help keep the coil packs from getting damaged by the heat.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136431&d=1636823003

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136432&d=1636823086

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136433&d=1636823139

[Unclesams_SVO]

My next step is wiring, I will admit that I am a little intimated by this with everything that I want to install:

- Flex fuel sensor
- Boost controller
- Wideband
- Coil packs with harness
- PimpX ECU
- Ron Francis engine harness

Laying out the harness to see where to route everything.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136434&d=1636823904

[brsvo]

Your bay is coming together nicely!

[Unclesams_SVO]

I know I have been quiet lately (I have been traveling for work a lot this year) but I got some parts and motivation this weekend so with out further delay......

Last time I drove the car there seemed to be a lot of pedal effort with the cobra front and rear brakes with the stock style booster and 95 Cobra 15/16 master cylinder. So I ordered a 93 Cobra booster and Cobra 1" master cylinder along with all new brake lines from classic tube. So now everything in my brake system is new and not from 1986. http://vb.foureyedpride.com/images/smilies/icon_neutral.gif

I ended up getting everything from LMR (minus the Wilwood proportioning valve).

Brake booster, Master Cylinder, line adapter and hardware p/n - LRS-2005CB-K

Brake tubing p/n - LRS-MU1046SS

Wilwood combo proportioning valve p/n - 260-11179 (tel:260-11179)

Wilwood bracket, lines and hardware p/n - 220-15047 (tel:220-15047)

I used LMR's video on how-to set the rod length between the booster and master cylinder (pro-tip, if you are using a HF dial gauge then you may have to subtract .275 from your final measurement)

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137109&d=1651364273

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http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137111&d=1651364324

[Unclesams_SVO]

To get the new brake booster in required some drilling and the use of a BFH to massage the car into giving up the space for the lager booster. Unfortunately some of the pretty engine bay paint is not so pretty anymore, but in the end it got installed along with my all cleaned up wiper motor.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137112&d=1651364561

I also installed some more Scott Rod Fab panel behind the strut towers to make things a little prettier.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137113&d=1651364648

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137114&d=1651364672