Rotor and pad recommendations....

[majestic]

Stock 86. Front end is beginning to shake under hard braking. I think I'll order some upgraded parts (pads and rotors) for the front end. What are you guys using and where are you getting them?

Thanks!

[SchoolBoy]

I used powerslot sloted front rotors with hawk hps pads, the rear was napa rotors and porterfield rs4 pads. I had one of the power slot rotors develop hairline cracks in the first 500 miles but I may have been two agressive during the bedding/seasoning process. The place I bought them from sent me a replacement and all has been good since. If I was to do it over again I'd use the porterfield rs4's all the way around not just the back.

[dagenham]

I put Bendix brand rotors, calipers, and pads all around when I got my car years ago. The rotors have held up well to some occasional very spirited driving with no warping or noticable fade from the pads which are also holding up good.
I don't know where to tell you to buy them though as bought mine thru my workplace and we are a Bendix dealer.

[FinnSVO]

I replaced my front rotors three years ago with standard Raybestos and pads with Hawk HPS. Can't complain, has hold up nicely one-two track days and few autocross days per summer and 8 k miles, no problems. Pads still usable at least this summer too.

Rear has OEM Ford discs and seemingly pads too by previous owner, no noticable wearing during four year ownership.

[majestic]

I used powerslot sloted front rotors with hawk hps pads, the rear was napa rotors and porterfield rs4 pads. I had one of the power slot rotors develop hairline cracks in the first 500 miles but I may have been two agressive during the bedding/seasoning process. The place I bought them from sent me a replacement and all has been good since. If I was to do it over again I'd use the porterfield rs4's all the way around not just the back.

Do you have a part number for the porterfield pads?

Never mind. Those are too pricey for what we use the car for. I got a good deal on some Hawk HPS pads and stoptech slotted rotors.

[SchoolBoy]

Just remember that hawk only makes the front pads....

[majestic]

Just remember that hawk only makes the front pads....

Yep. I'm just changing the fronts for now.

[Mike S]

Another thing that can cause pulsing under hard braking is old brake fluid. Moister is the fluid will boil and turn to steam. If you can remember when the last time you have flushed all four brakes, then the time is now. Use Motorcraft, it has one of the highest boiling points for Dot 3 fluids.

[MikeFleming]

. Use Motorcraft, it has one of the highest boiling points for Dot 3 fluids. Or use DOT 4 fluid - 100% compatible with our old SVOs. I prefer ATE Type 200.

[majestic]

Or use DOT 4 fluid - 100% compatible with our old SVOs. I prefer ATE Type 200.

Thanks. I topped of the reservoir with DOT 4 a couple of weeks ago.

[majestic]

Man, I forgot how heavy these rotors are. The slotted rotors are pretty sharp looking, too bad you can't see them with stock wheels :) Planning on changing rotors/pads later this week weather permitting.

[majestic]

Just finished up this project. As I was finishing up the first (L) rotor I thought, "this seems to rub the dust shield more than it should". Anyway, buttoned it up and moved on to the passenger side. As I'm putting both bearings in, I realized I had not put the back bearing in on the other side. I'm glad I didn't drive it that way :(

The pads were GONE. I'm glad I didn't put this off any longer.

[MikeFleming]

IIRC - there's an inch of clearance between the dust shield and the rotor.

[majestic]

IIRC - there's an inch of clearance between the dust shield and the rotor.

Not on this car. Maybe 1/2 inch.

So I just took it for a ride to get the brakes set-up. It will stop, but not panic stop. The pedal pressure feels ok, but I really expected to be able to stop on a dime. Reservoir levels look fine but it doesn't stop like I want it to. Ideas?

[MikeFleming]

You need to bed and heat-cycle the new pad materials.

[majestic]

Well, I thought that's what I was doing :) After thinking about it, I think I may have left some axle grease on the rotors. I'm going to soap and wash them tomorrow.

[majestic]

You need to bed and heat-cycle the new pad materials.

So, we cleaned all the grease off of the rotors and took the car out for several spirited stops from 60 to zero. It is stopping better, but it still won't lock up the brakes like I would expect it to not having ABS. Most of the grab is at the bottom of the pedal, too. Should this improve with use? You can definitely tell the old rotors were warped as it stops with no shaking now.

[majestic]

Pretty sure I have air in the lines. It's still spongey. What would be the normal/fair price to have a shop bleed the lines?

[rodster]

Pretty sure I have air in the lines. It's still spongey. What would be the normal/fair price to have a shop bleed the lines?

I wouldn't think more than 1/2 hr labor and some brake fluid. Maybe 1hr at the worst assuming there is nothing else wrong. Don't you have some car buddies to help you out?

[Under Pressure]

About $100.00

[indysvodave]

I've got stock spec Napa rotors, and Stillen pads.
Get some brake cleaner and spray those rotors.
If you had grease on them, it might have gotten into the pads, and they could be ruined.
rotors and pads must be kept clean when installing.
I drove mine to a parking lot, and proceeded the standard bedding procedure.
30mph to stop a few times...
40mph to stop a few times.
50mph to stop a few times
60mph to stop a few times
Hurry up and leave before mall cop comes to see what the hell you're doing...

[Raven855]

I posted this a little over 6 years ago. Still good info.https://www.svocop.com/forum/showthread.php?288-Brake-bed-in

[majestic]

I've got stock spec Napa rotors, and Stillen pads.
Get some brake cleaner and spray those rotors.
If you had grease on them, it might have gotten into the pads, and they could be ruined.
rotors and pads must be kept clean when installing.
I drove mine to a parking lot, and proceeded the standard bedding procedure.
30mph to stop a few times...
40mph to stop a few times.
50mph to stop a few times
60mph to stop a few times
Hurry up and leave before mall cop comes to see what the hell you're doing...

Pretty sure it's air. I have it scheduled to go to the shop on Tuesday. Gnari intercooler kit just showed up, btw. Will open soon :)

[majestic]

Flushed/bled and stops like it should now. 3 inch downpipe and FMIC up next.

[majestic]

I took the car for a spin and the brakes were pretty soft. I popped open the MC and noticed that the back reservoir was full, but the front was very low. How much fluid should be in the front reservoir?

[MikeFleming]

I took the car for a spin and the brakes were pretty soft. I popped open the MC and noticed that the back reservoir was full, but the front was very low. How much fluid should be in the front reservoir? With fresh (thick, new) pads the MC should be filled to ~1/4" from full in both front and rear reservoirs.

As the pads wear and get thinner, the pistons come out of the calipers to make up for the thickness reduction. The fluid from the MC gets displaced to move the pistons out - thus lowering the fluid in the MC reservoir. So if the above description is correct (MC full with fresh pads/rotors - aka caliper piston all the way in) then the MC fluid level can be used to indicate pad wear.

Naturally as soon as someone tops off a MC reservoir, the game in unknown.

[Mike S]

Sounds like to you have a leak on the rear brake lines/calipers.

[MikeFleming]

Sounds like to you have a leak on the rear brake lines/calipers. Or pad/rotor wear.

BTW - The large reservoir is the front caliper set, small is rear.

[majestic]

Well, I refilled the MC and drove it to the shop to have the new cam installed yesterday. The brakes will bite, but the pedal travel is a bit long before they do. I can't imagine the Hawk pads have worn that much in the past three months. Guess I'll have to look at them when I get the car back.

[MikeFleming]

Well, I refilled the MC and drove it to the shop to have the new cam installed yesterday. The brakes will bite, but the pedal travel is a bit long before they do. I can't imagine the Hawk pads have worn that much in the past three months. Guess I'll have to look at them when I get the car back. Adjust (tighten-up) the rear calipers.

[majestic]

Adjust (tighten-up) the rear calipers.

It must have gotten air in the system again somehow. The fluid level is the same as a week ago after refilling the MC. I'll limp it in to the body shop tomorrow and then back into the shop for a bleed after that.

[majestic]

Leaking rear caliper. The shop will only replace them in pairs, so I get to spend $380 dollars next week :) That will bring the two week total to $2200. I swear, this car spends more time in the shop than at my house.