Intercooler upgrade question

[majestic]

I have the Bell core that I am planning on swapping in the stock housing. I notice that the stock core has a lip on both sides that the interior seals snap onto. The Bell core does not. That would obviously be problematic regarding boost leak. Any ideas on what I could use instead of/in conjunction with the stock seals?

[majestic]

Looks like I'm going to have to DIY some sort of seal for this. The Bell core measures the same size as the stock core without the lip. No way can the stock seals be used. Might need to buy some Flex-Seal (haha).

[SchoolBoy]

Some picture might help us help you.

[Mike S]

I have made seals out of silicon sheets obtained from McMaster-Carr. They also have L-shape silicone that you will need to seal the sides. I used ultra gray silicone to glue them in place. I still have an issue with sealing to the top of the intercooler body because the casting is not flat in that area. I thought the gasket could seal the difference, but it wasn't thick enough to do the job. So it needs to come back apart and I need to flatten out the sealing surface of the casting.

[majestic]

I have made seals out of silicon sheets obtained from McMaster-Carr. They also have L-shape silicone that you will need to seal the sides. I used ultra gray silicone to glue them in place. I still have an issue with sealing to the top of the intercooler body because the casting is not flat in that area. I thought the gasket could seal the difference, but it wasn't thick enough to do the job. So it needs to come back apart and I need to flatten out the sealing surface of the casting.

Awesome! Do you happen to remember/know the part number you used?

[MikeFleming]

I used ultra gray silicone to glue them in place. Be sure to use an "oxygen sensor safe" glue. Or let it cure for at least 24 hours before making it part of the engine's intake system. High humidity speeds curing.

[Mike S]

Awesome! Do you happen to remember/know the part number you used?

9010K13 and 3482K4

I traced out a gasket template with poster board, then transferred it to make the gasket. I used the ultra gray to fill in the groove in the casting to give the gasket a better bite. Good luck.

[Mike S]

Be sure to use an "oxygen sensor safe" glue. Or let it cure for at least 24 hours before making it part of the engine's intake system. High humidity speeds curing.

No worries there, it takes ultra gray 24 hrs to cure, then you start the leak and pressure testing.

[majestic]

Thanks, Mike!

[majestic]

Just ordered everything. Spent about $70 with shipping.

[majestic]

So..... that didn't work at all. :( Leaks like crazy. Won't make any boost. I think I'm probably going to be looking to go front mount. The only kit I can find is Stinger's, but it says I have to move the a/c condenser for it to fit. Does anyone know of any other kits that are bolt-on without having to move/lose your a/c?

[SchoolBoy]

Just a thought would it be possible to weld the bell core into the stock location? Or for that matter just have end tanks made for the new core.

The only other kit on the market that I know of for fmic is from Gnari... https://gnari.com/products/front-mount-intercooler-kit-for-mustang-svo

[Art Vandelay]

I don't remember the exact details because it was so long ago, but moving the AC condenser with Stinger's kit is not a big deal. I needed to use an aftermarket power steering cooler, trim the front of the wheel well lining near the fog lights, and relocate the charcoal canister, but I did not have any AC-specific problems or complaints with the FMIC install.

[majestic]

Just a thought would it be possible to weld the bell core into the stock location? Or for that matter just have end tanks made for the new core.

The only other kit on the market that I know of for fmic is from Gnari... https://gnari.com/products/front-mount-intercooler-kit-for-mustang-svo

That kit looks nice. If it is really a direct fit, no mods kit, I think I may go that direction. Has anyone here used it?

I really don't think I want to fool with the Bell/stock location anymore. I'll probably post it up for sale here before long.

[Under Pressure]

That is nice I'd like to see a picture of it installed.

[Art Vandelay]

There is a thread on TurboFord about the Gnari installation, and the guy had some problems. Would love to see a second opinion, but Stinger is probably a safer bet overall.

[majestic]

There is a thread on TurboFord about the Gnari installation, and the guy had some problems. Would love to see a second opinion, but Stinger is probably a safer bet overall.

Would you happen to have a link to that thread? I was banned over there years ago, so I don't think I can search for it.

[majestic]

Actually, I was able to search and find the thread. I wonder if the kit has been updated since then to address having to reclock the compressor housing?

[SchoolBoy]

After reading the thread (found here for those trying to follow along http://forum.turboford.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=059375#000011) it sounds like you should put a note in the order form if you have a normal turbo and they will send the extra bend. But I'm of the opinion that if your not going to put the intercooler in front of the condenser your better off building a kit like the old sperco kits.9638963996409641

As for moving the a/c condenser its actually really simple and you can see how I did that to my car on page 2 of my fmic build thread... http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?161442-My-SVO-FMIC-R-amp-D-project


So saddly there really isn't a one size fits all solution to the svo fmic situation. You need to have some fabrication skills and tools.

[majestic]

I need to do some planning :) I already have a PIMP running. I'd like something that doesn't require me to do a ton of extra work. Dave installed a new radiator in this car before I bought it, and I think it's thicker than stock. I can fab some things up, but I don't weld. Decisions, decisions....

[SchoolBoy]

Oh crap I just put 2 and 2 together... I know who's car you bought lol. Knowing this now, is there any way you can take some pictures of the bell core and the svo intercooler shell I still think thats your best bet. I know it can be done as guys in the past have made it work but I need to see it to make any suggestions.... Hell depending on what I see I'd personally take a crack at making it work...

[majestic]

Oh crap I just put 2 and 2 together... I know who's car you bought lol. Knowing this now, is there any way you can take some pictures of the bell core and the svo intercooler shell I still think thats your best bet. I know it can be done as guys in the past have made it work but I need to see it to make any suggestions.... Hell depending on what I see I'd personally take a crack at making it work...

The Bell core is just like the stock core, but it doesn't have the metal ridges that hold the stock seals in place. I tried using some silicone and ultra grey but that didn't work. I need to take a look at how much the Gnari moves the radiator back to see if that would work.

[SchoolBoy]

Would it be possible to have the ridges welded onto the bell core for a simple fix?

I need to dig mine out and open it up to see what it looks like, been to long...

[majestic]

Would it be possible to have the ridges welded onto the bell core for a simple fix?

I need to dig mine out and open it up to see what it looks like, been to long...


Unfortunately, no. The Bell core measures exactly the same as the stock core with ridges. That is, if you welded the ridges on, it would no longer fit in the housing with the stock seals.

[SchoolBoy]

Well it can be done because Jim sold a few of these kits hopefully someone who has one will step up and show us just wth he did...

[majestic]

At this point, I'm trying to decide between Stinger's kit or Gnari's. There's not much difference in price and I already have the BOV I bought from Stinger. The Gnari unit looks nicer/better, but that may just be me.

[SchoolBoy]

Here I finally found a link to someone who got this to work just incase anyone else is following along thanks to Ken Potter. http://www.svoca.com/forum/showthread.php?24680-stock-intercooler-core-upgrade&highlight=Bell

[majestic]

Here I finally found a link to someone who got this to work just incase anyone else is following along thanks to Ken Potter. http://www.svoca.com/forum/showthread.php?24680-stock-intercooler-core-upgrade&highlight=Bell

I have seen that thread. While I did not attempt to use the stock seals, the reason was because the core won't fit in the housing with the stock seals.

[SchoolBoy]

Did you catch the part about trimming the stock seals?

[majestic]

Yes, but I didn't want to risk ruining them, so I made my own.

[Raven855]

I reused the stock seals and just trimmed them down.

[SchoolBoy]

I reused the stock seals and just trimmed them down.

Trimmed in what way, thickness?

[Unclesams_SVO]

I found a I/C that fits in front of the radiator really well. It does require a bit of work and a little trimming to get it to fit, but in my mind almost looks like it belongs there.

Link ----> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0044PSBN0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Under Pressure]

Looks good I take it there will be no A/C.

[SchoolBoy]

Well if he moved the radiator back like I did then there would be space for the condenser.

[majestic]

So...... after jacking with the Gnari kit for about 4 hours, I'm convinced it is not intended to keep the a/c. Looks like I'll be sending it back and maybe looking at Stinger's kit.

[Raven855]

Where was the issue? Pictures maybe?

[majestic]

Where was the issue? Pictures maybe?

Lots of issues. I'll detail them when I have more energy and time. But this kit should not be marketed as an easy swap.

[majestic]

Still working on it. I was able to get the intercooler mounted so far. Since they have NO instructions, you have to figure it out as you go. The front charge pipe goes in front of both the condensor and the power steering lines. You have to move them a bit and it's still a tight fit. Looks like I'll be losing the charcoal canister as well.

[majestic]

How wide is the stock radiator? No way mine is going back in.

[MikeFleming]

How wide is the stock radiator? No way mine is going back in.
The stock core is 19 x 29. Add a couple inches each side for the tanks.

CORRECTION: Stock rediator is 19" tall, 29 inches wide INCLUDING tanks.

[majestic]

The stock core is 19 x 29. Add a couple inches each side for the tanks.

The one I have is 29 inches wide, tank to tank. There is no way it is going back in. I have about 25 inches of room. Any suggestions on what might fit? Also, I think I'm going to have to trim a couple of inches off of the charge pipe that connects from the intercooler outlet to the throttle body. I didn't yet, and decided to call it quits for the day. I was about to drop it on the saw but am concerned about it no longer having a lip. Sealing issues if I do?

I'll have to find somewhere else to mount the charcoal canister. I don't give a rip what Gnari says, it will not fit in the stock location. This is not a very well designed kit, especially if you have a/c and want to keep it. I'm going to have to purchase a different radiator and fan to get it to work.

[Art Vandelay]

When I lost the charcoal canister location after installing the Stinger FMIC, I found two holes right in front of the sway bar mount that was suitable to use with a custom bracket. I bent a stock canister bracket 90 degrees and cut/drilled a piece of aluminum to drop it down to where it would fit. I can probably get a pic of it installed if this doesn't make sense.
9667

[SchoolBoy]

I would email Gnari as I believe they email the instructions to you so its worth asking....

I have seen several guys reference to using a ranger radiator but I never did put enough time in to find out exactly what year you would need but this should be the cheapest route!

I went with one from RonDavisradiators.com 623-877-5000
Part# 1S-26193F (or you might want to look at 1S-24193F as its 24" wide) stock car radiators. But you'll need to custom order it to have the inlet and outlet diameters changed to 1 1/4 inlet, and 1 1/2 outlet. Also the radiator does NOT come with a drain. If you want one order it with one. All of this will cost extra...

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2938/14337084679_899fbe85f0_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQViMa)SAM_0431 (https://flic.kr/p/nQViMa) by Judge Dread (https://www.flickr.com/photos/108591629@N08/), on Flickr

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5273/14337240427_c40f7b2bb0_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQW75t)SAM_0433 (https://flic.kr/p/nQW75t) by Judge Dread (https://www.flickr.com/photos/108591629@N08/), on Flickr

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5575/15191166931_1eafa4cd50_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/p9oGFe)SAM_0679 (https://flic.kr/p/p9oGFe) by Judge Dread (https://www.flickr.com/photos/108591629@N08/), on Flickr

[majestic]

Thanks! I just emailed them.

[majestic]

Well, so that won't work. They don't modify the inlet or outlet. Will my stock radiator hoses "stretch" over a 1/4 inch larger inlet/outlet if I order a radiator so equipped?

[SchoolBoy]

No... Thats why I had to cut mine off order the correct size and pay a local guy to weld them on. So your kinda back to checking summit for a 86-99ish ranger 2.3L radiator.

[majestic]

No... Thats why I had to cut mine off order the correct size and pay a local guy to weld them on. So your kinda back to checking summit for a 86-99ish ranger 2.3L radiator.

Well. I ordered a unit from Griffin that will fit. I'll have to tackle the hose issues when I get it. If I have to get the old ones welded on, I guess I will. Any thoughts on a fan? Something like this work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/16-ELECTRIC-RADIATOR-FAN-HIGH-3000-CFM-THERMOSTAT-WIRING-SWITCH-RELAY-KIT-BLACK/253110386902?epid=2194024998&hash=item3aee8e00d6:g:KzEAAOSwzBJaeqg7

[majestic]

So to finish this up, here is where we stand:

*Had to order new radiator. I went with a 24 inch Griffin unit. Also had to order couplers and reducers to use stock hoses.
*New radiator fan. 16 inch low profile.
*New radiator mounts will have to be fabricated.
*Charge pipe that connects to throttle body will have to be trimmed about 3 inches to fit properly.
*Bottom radiator hose support is lost. Will have to fab something else up or just delete it.
*I think they forgot to include the coupler for the BOV to charge pipe.
*Will have to relocate or delete the charcoal canister.

All in all, I don't recommend this kit unless you want to spend another $300 + to install it. I asked for pictures of the kit installed in an otherwise stock car with A/C and received 9 pictures of either incomplete installations or vehicles with modified radiators, and zero pictures of a complete installation.

I hope to get this completed in the next 3 or 4 days and will post the final results when I do.

[luxy72]

Majestic...I’ll get you pics of my Gnari front mount installed with the stock radiator. I also installed it with factory turbo clock position. The only I lost was the charcoal canister. I need to find a place for it.


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[MikeFleming]

You can easily roatte the charcoal canister and bracket so it's at the same place on the lower frame rail, but protruding into the right front fender area. under the rail versus into the engine compartment area.

[luxy72]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180616/eefcf921c0f424900923257faa50106d.heichttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180616/f0b319ef70e665fc256c84f065424e9c.heichttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180616/74442935e2808c11a9e5e038cc6589cd.heichttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180616/a8b783fd1da4d76bacc64731b698a17e.heic


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[majestic]

Thanks for the pictures, luxy72. I guess I should point out that I did not have a stock radiator. Dave installed a stock width radiator, but it was thicker. So there was no way it was going back in, anyway. The charge pipe that connects from the bottom of the intercooler to the pipe going to the throttle body was too long to connect without bending the coupler almost in half. I trimmed about 3 inches off to get it to fit. I ended up modifying one of the Gnari radiator brackets to fit about 8 inches farther towards the driver's side to seat the radiator. I still have a couple of hours, at least, to go. I have to trim the radiator hoses and see how I'm going to get the coolant tank back in.

How does the BOV attach to the charge pipe? Is it supposed to seal with the o-ring and snap-ring connector that come with the BOV? I'm not using it in BPV configuration since I have a PIMP.

[majestic]

I'm also wondering if there are differences in this kit fitting a 85.5/86 vs 84/85?

[luxy72]

The blow off valve fits into the pipe with a snap ring. As far as I know these kits fit 84-86. Also I had to trim the pipe going to my throttle body since I am using a 95 G.T. t-body. It took me a good 6 hours to get this in trying to figure out how to make it all fit.


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[majestic]

Finally got it running again. I'll upload some pictures soon. I did have to trim another inch and a half off the ic to tb pipe to get the hood to close. I'm wondering why the fan doesn't kick on unless I turn on the AC? While burping the radiator the temperature got up to between the a and l. The stock fan controller should still control the new fan, right? Driving down the road the gauge stays between o and r. My son is happy to be back in the car and loves the blowoff valve sound :)

[SchoolBoy]

Its possible that the coolant switch for the fan has gone bad, but keep in mind the stock one kicks the fan on at like 210*ish. You can always put a painless brand switch part number 30110 kicks the fan on at 195 and off at 185...

[majestic]

You have a blue 84/85, luxy72?

[luxy72]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180619/c40481639bc7c3251d79f6ea7450c3bb.heic


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[majestic]

Nice! What color did it start out?

[luxy72]

It was originally charcoal gray. It’s now Dodge True Blue Pearl Metallic


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[majestic]

I don't suppose anyone knows the o-ring size for the BOV? Somehow, the BOV was blown out of the fitting and we lost the o-ring.

[majestic]

Gnari is sending me a new o-ring, but I went ahead and purchased the 400 pack from HF and it had one that fit. After looking at the housing, it's apparent that the snap ring was not fully seated. I wondered why the BOV rotated so easily yesterday. I think we have it seated properly now. It is much more difficult to move the BOV in the housing. Fingers crossed :)