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View Full Version : More master cylinder problems, is stainless steel insert the solution?



Laredo
09-25-2018, 02:10 PM
Just had my 3rd master cylinder failure in 2 years. The most recent one lasted about a week, purchased as "remanufactured" from NPD over a year ago as a back-up to keep on the shelf, aluminum housing, installed the Saturday before heading out to Sturgis Mustang Rally. Ran both sessions of the auto-cross driving school and the qualifier sessions - with the new rotors, calipers, and Hawk pads - the brakes worked AWESOME. Until the 2nd-to-last round of the finals on Sunday - suddenly, NO BRAKES, pedal goes right to the floor. Finished the run by coasting through turns and using the parking brake (still finished 14th). Upon inspection - no brake fluid leaks, again!

Rather than risking another Chinese rebuilt knock-off (which seems is all that’s available), I looked into getting this one rebuilt by a local remanufacturer / machine shop that does brake rebuilding for classic vehicles. Even though the bore is supposedly hard-anodized from OE, they recommended doing a stainless steel sleeve over basic rebuilding. Expensive solution ($190-$200) but they said since I no longer have the original MC, you can’t know what’s happened to the bore surface of the reman units after 30 years. Anyone here ever done this? Cost seems over-the-top but I am so sick of repeat MC failures that seem to happen at the worst possible times. :(

brsvo
09-25-2018, 05:46 PM
Did you remove the failed part? Was there fluid in the booster?

MikeFleming
09-25-2018, 06:34 PM
The aluminum ones hve an anodized bore that should NOT be machined or honed. If it was honed, that is probably the cause of failure.

While it's not original and adds weight, the iron housings can be honed.

Laredo
09-25-2018, 08:29 PM
Did you remove the failed part?
Yes, I removed it yesterday.

Was there fluid in the booster?
Nope - booster was dry.

Laredo
09-25-2018, 08:43 PM
While it's not original and adds weight, the iron housings can be honed.

I bought/installed a re-man cast iron unit for now just to get it on the road again, although I would like to eventually keep the original weight / appearance of aluminum.



The aluminum ones hve an anodized bore that should NOT be machined or honed. If it was honed, that is probably the cause of failure.

That would make sense, perhaps the expensive stainless sleeving route is the only option to ensure reliability.