Clutch recommendations?

[scenario]

Need to replace my clutch on my 1986 SVO.

I want a replacement for my stock setup. Nothing fancy just a decent clutch. I been out of the loop for many years and dont know one brand from the other.

I did notice that there are different size disks list for the same application. For example clutch kits listed for SVO's some have 8-1/2 some have 8-7/8 and some are listed as 9-1/4????

Hate to buy the wrong one. My clutch is original and I would prefer to buy the clutch in advance and have it ready when I pull the unit. If anyone could give me a part number for a clutch kit it would be greatlt appreciated.


Thanks


Frank

[Stinger]

As long as you buy an entire clutch kit (disc, pressure plate) as an assembly, the size difference won't matter from an installation standpoint, the ones near 9" will all work. It's when you try to "mix n match" different discs and pressure plates that you have to watch out. For "stockish" applications, there are a number of different choices out there. Anything from a stock replacement clutch from Autozone (or any other parts store) to aftermarket versions from Centerforce, SPEC, etc. For SPEC, their stage 1 unit would be slightly above stock. I'd point you to a 2.3T vendor that sells SPEC brand clutches but I'm not sure what the rules are about that here yet so I'll hold off on that.

[Patrick]

We have no rules set in place yet regarding vendors. I think that Forced4 still sells SPEC clutches.

The early 84 SVO had a disc and pressure plate that was 3mm (~1/8") smaller in diameter than the 85-86. I ordered a clutch cover for an 86 from Centerforce one time and got one for an 84. The O.D. of the disc would bind against the I.D. of the clutch cover. That's a "mix and match" story to remember. If you end up ordering a clutch kit online, remember that we post the most current RockAuto discount codes here as we come across them. That usually saves you 5%. You can check their price against Amazon, who may ship it for free.

[4themasses]

I am also interested in getting a stock setup put back in my SVO. Don't think a SPEC is needed. If anyone could give a specific assy. part no. to purchase or rec. vendor, that would be great!

[Stinger]

We have no rules set in place yet regarding vendors. I think that Forced4 still sells SPEC clutches.

OK, I'll assume it's OK to say Stinger Performance sells SPEC products as well then?

[Patrick]

It's OK to mention if someone asks. Once policies get set up for Vendors we will have better direction. We just want people to resist the temptation of posting ads and promoting their products in the wrong area. Stinger, maybe we can discuss this in a PM and help develop a protocol.

[Stinger]

Sending PM now

[scenario]

I ordered a clutch kit from Exedy. I heard their clutches were pretty good. I need to replace this clutch asap, it is getting really annoying not being able to floor it!

Part # 07038

[Meotchh]

Learn to shift without the crutch.

[quikup]

You may need to resurface the flywheel as well, so find a good machine shop.

[MikeFleming]

You may need to resurface the flywheel as well, so find a good machine shop. Make sure they remove the pressure plate locating pins BEFORE grinding the flywheel. Then put them back in.

It gets more difficult to remove them once the exposed portions are cut off.

[grntRUDD13]

I have a basically stock SVO, and even with that, I'd recommend a SPEC clutch. I have a 2+ in mine and it is awesome. The shifts are not as smooth since trying to slip the clutch, even a little, doesn't really happen, but it is well worth it in my opinion. Plus it is one less thing to worry about when you're tempted to drive your SVO like it was meant to be driven. The 2+ is overkill untill further modifications, but having driven one as well, a stage two would be a very nice upgrade over stock.

[AKA BB]

When you get ready I can vouch that spec Stg 3 clutch can hold 380wheel ft lbs of trq...at 400 +wtrq, there was slippage. I like there clutches and if I was going with a stick I would opt for them again, but I think the SVO sees a automatic in it's future...

[evintho]

I grabbed a couple of these RAM kits from SummitRacing. Installed one in Thunderstang and one in the TC. They've been in each for a couple of years now and never had and issue. The price is right and no slippage.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAM-88618/Application/?query=Year%7c1986%7cMake%7cFORD%7cModel%7cMUSTANG&prefilter=1 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAM-88618/Application/?query=Year%7c1986%7cMake%7cFORD%7cModel%7cMUSTANG&prefilter=1)

In addition, instead of surfacing the flywheel, NAPA, O'reillys and Autozone sell new flywheels in the $55-$60 range. Just something to think about.

[Bob Holmes]

When you get ready I can vouch that spec Stg 3 clutch can hold 380wheel ft lbs of trq...at 400 +wtrq, there was slippage. I like there clutches and if I was going with a stick I would opt for them again, but I think the SVO sees a automatic in it's future...

I'll be interested to see how that swap goes. Post your progress if you do it, please.

[Duck]

I went through 2 Specs before I put a custom clutch from Tampa Clutch Supply in when I did the G-Force swap. Both broken in properly.

[AKA BB]

I'll be interested to see how that swap goes. Post your progress if you do it, please.

Oh i'll post about the progress, of course i'll probably have great grand kids by the time its done.....
:(

[SVO86]

This is very close to stock there still out there I'm running this setup now love it.

MOTORSPORT CLUTCH KIT M-7550-A221 PRESSURE PLATE M-7563-A221 T/O BEARING D9ZZ-7548-A

[MikeFleming]

This is very close to stock there still out there I'm running this setup now love it.

MOTORSPORT CLUTCH KIT M-7550-A221 PRESSURE PLATE M-7563-A221 T/O BEARING D9ZZ-7548-A That IS the stock 86 clutch parts as sold through Ford SVO Performance Parts.

[Gyrhead]

Now that the motor is out of the car and I have time to ask a lot of questions and contemplate what my budget will allow vs. what I want, it's time to consider the clutch. Prior to this rebuild, the car dyno'ed at 219 hp with around 235 ft lbs of TQ, IIRC. Now with the T3/T4, motor rebuild and a Boport head massage to Stage 1 porting and Stage 1.9 cam, I'm hoping to be somewhere in the neighborhood of 250-260 w/ 270 ft lbs of TQ. I have been doing a lot of reading on clutches and the SPEC seems to have mixed reviews. Many complain of chattering (not just in the 2.3 arena I have learned) and some state that it should resolve "after the 500 mile break in" but many threads don't revisit to see whether it went away. I've used Centerforce and RAM clutches before in V-8 applications, but frankly am very fond of the Motorsports setup. It was in the car prior to this rebuild and I love it. It seems to grip well and has good pedal effort. I know this was the clutch that came in the car originally. I used to be a SPEC dealer, but not so sure I want to "Drink the Kool-Aid" just yet. I want a few more unbiased opinions on which clutch people prefer. Especially in light of where I think this car will end up numbers-wise. Key goals are pedal effort and drivability.

Also, not sure you can get the Motorsports Clutch anymore.

[03shkr]

When you get ready I can vouch that spec Stg 3 clutch can hold 380wheel ft lbs of trq...at 400 +wtrq, there was slippage.

I have the Stage 3 and I like its feel and engagement - to get rolling, you just have to give it a little more RPMs than a stock clutch.

The stage 3 rated for 425 tq. Right now, I'm hoping this is enough for my setup.

[Gyrhead]

What I don't know is that SPEC states their disk material an "integrally molded carbon kevlar-based high performance organic lining". So what does that mean? Is it organic or a composite? Not sure I'm crazy about a Kevlar based friction material. I have been told they tend to chatter as they heat up and grab more. I remember reading somewhere that they are not recommended for street driven cars. I'm tired of modding vehicles to the edge of enjoyable drivability.. So back to my original question...

[MikeFleming]

The stock 86 SVO clutch will do fine for what you're asking about - that's the same as the replacement Motorcraft unit. While it may not last as long as a clutch rated for a higher torque, it will be much easier to drive. Besides how many miles are you gonna put on it? And since changing them is so cheap (<$200) and easy (<3 hours work), just buy two.

MOST aftermarket performance clutches use a higher clamping force and that results in significantly more pedal effort. The SPEC design uses a different fulcrum design so the pedal effort is lower, while the friction engagement/disengagement range is MUCH lower. For example: the stock clutch will have about a 1.5" range from fully engaged to fully disengaged. Makes it real easy to drive and you don't need a very accurate left foot to start off. The SPEC has a MUCH shorter range from fully disengaged to fully engaged, more like 0.5". So you need to get your left foot reprogrammed or you'll end up with stalls or jerky starts. I don't have any issues with my 2+, but I've spent decades driving "On/Off" clutches in formula cars.

If you've ever driven a Formula Ford - the SPEC is more like that clutch - not much pedal movement to engage. Some people don't like that for a street car as it's more difficult to creep in traffic or hold on hills. My 2+ is exactly like that - VERY little friction range.

Many moons ago I attempted to try one of the CenterForce Dual Friction clutches in my red car (back when it still saw DD street duty). I installed the clutch assy after refinishing the flywheel and immediately noticed that the pedal effort was extremely high - like over 60 Lbs. (it was advertised as same as stock pedal effort). Drive it for a whole day then called their support line. They indicated that something was wrong and to return it for inspection.

Pulled it out and sent it back. Called them two weeks later - they denied having it. FAX'd them the UPS signed receipt and - magically - they found it. Inspected, tested, etc and said all was perfect. So they reconditioned the pressure plate (whatever that means) and shipped it back to me with a new DF disc. I never re-installed it - if there was nothing wrong with it, and nothing was changed, why would I expect re-installation to be any different? Sold it a few years later.

That's my experience with CF's DF clutch and customer service.

[Patrick]

I've had the same experience as Mike with the Centerforce. They claimed a stock pedal feel, and it was stiff as hell. The pedal engage/disengage travel more closely approximated the operation of an on/off switch.

[Stinger]

What I don't know is that SPEC states their disk material an "integrally molded carbon kevlar-based high performance organic lining". So what does that mean? Is it organic or a composite? Not sure I'm crazy about a Kevlar based friction material. I have been told they tend to chatter as they heat up and grab more. I remember reading somewhere that they are not recommended for street driven cars. I'm tired of modding vehicles to the edge of enjoyable drivability.. So back to my original question...

The disk material used varies depending on what stage of clutch you are looking at. I have all the different stages & materials listed on my site for quick reference. The higher stages do use Kevlar since it does exactly what you said, grabs harder as it heats up. This is what you want in a performance clutch, otherwise clutch gripping power will drop when you really need it (when the clutch is hot). The lower stages of their clutches are organic though. There are also carbon metallic options as well for the real racy stuff.

[scenario]

***UPDATE***

I installed the Exedy clutch. All went real easy! Had FW resurfaced and put her in. I did it on my back in my driveway and must say it was one of the easiest big jobs I have done in a long time. I prob havent pulled a T5 in 20 years.

I am happy so far with the clutch on my stock 86 SVO.

Exedy kit was complete and ALL fit perfect! Alignment tool worked like a charm and I stabbed the unit on the 1st shot. Even the 26 year old exhaust unbolted.

[03shkr]

Very nice. Congrats...


***UPDATE***

I installed the Exedy clutch. All went real easy! Had FW resurfaced and put her in. I did it on my back in my driveway and must say it was one of the easiest big jobs I have done in a long time. I prob havent pulled a T5 in 20 years.

I am happy so far with the clutch on my stock 86 SVO.

Exedy kit was complete and ALL fit perfect! Alignment tool worked like a charm and I stabbed the unit on the 1st shot. Even the 26 year old exhaust unbolted.

[Gyrhead]

Good to know. I took a look at Exedy's website and it really sucks to look up stuff there. Very poor navigation. I couldn't find anything in Stage 1 or higher. What were the part numbers on your clutch? They only show units for the V-8 applications. which I assume are 10.5" models.

[Gyrhead]

What were the part numbers on your clutch?

So, I dug a little deeper and looked at the OEM replacements section of their site and found their clutches that fit. They list two applications which confuse me as they are identical.



07030 (http://www.exedyusa.com/oe/07030)
1984 - 1986
MUSTANG SVO
L4; 2.3; Turbo; Gas(ALL)


07038 (http://www.exedyusa.com/oe/07038)
1984 - 1986
MUSTANG SVO
L4; 2.3; Turbo; Gas(ALL)



Just for grins I dropped the part number into eBay and turned up at least 100 or so clutch kits for the 2.3 under different tradenames including F1 Racing, RinoPak, AMS, GripForce and others. Apparently Exedy was a division of Daikin, a Japanese company. I guess they private label clutches for quite a few "brand names". Also, this part number appears to be used for both OEM and Stage 1 & 2 clutches depending on the "vendor". So, like I said...I'm confused as to how to go.

I'd be curious how this clutch holds up longer term. Some of those kits/vendors on FeeBay reminded me of the $199 T3/T4 turbos you can buy on eBay. Scary....

Anyone found a vendor selling Ford Motorsports clutches that has them in stock!!!

[Chalky]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I thought Daiken was the OEM manufacturer!!

[Patrick]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I thought Daiken was the OEM manufacturer!!


BZZZZZZZZZ DING. Think an Italian manufacturer. With a little LuK, you may get it right.

[scenario]

Exedy part number 07038

I got it from RockAuto but couldnt get link to work. I paid $117.99.

http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-07038-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B55FQM

[scenario]

For the 07030 it mentions "4-speed Transmission" and that is why I chose the 07038. Ford did make a 4 speed back during that era. I had one in a 1981 Mercury Capri behind an inline 6 motor. I was not taking any chances and the 07038 said 5 Speed.

Regardless, I installed the 07038 and have put 500 miles on it already. It is correct!

[Gyrhead]

After much reading of reviews, rants and random motorsports forum drivel - in fact, I even impressed myself in showing so much purchasing restraint- I settled on the Ram PowerGrip. The nearest I can figure, it would be equivalent to SPEC's S2. I saw a lot of legitimately great feedback elsewhere and on other 2.3 sites. In fact, it seemed that most opinions were less split on the Ram PG than the SPEC S2 and up. In the end analysis SPEC reviews were evenly split between those that loved them and those who would never buy another. Naturally I discounted the "I love SPEC" replies without a valid reason. Believe me, it was painful reading page after page of un-moderated forums (including tuner sites) trying to weed out the BS, sniping and flaming. It was about the same money as the SPEC S1, which I will admit is a lot for a clutch, especially in light of the Exedy price. I would have preferred to go FMS, but even Ford doesn't list the part numbers anymore on their master catalog. Oh well.

I'll let you know how it works out. Thanks for all your thoughts here.

[MikeFleming]

I'll let you know how it works out. Thanks for all your thoughts here. And how long do we need to wait for a status update??

Someone needs to ban this guy.

[Patrick]

And how long do we need to wait for a status update??

Someone needs to ban this guy.

It's way beyond that point. Break out the Taser.

[MikeFleming]

Break out the Taser. YAAY! And I just installed new batteries!!