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View Full Version : Full 3" single exhaust with custom tail pipe



oneowner88lx
06-14-2012, 06:33 PM
This is on an '88 LX 2.3 turbo with 8.8 rear with quad shocks. But I thought you guys might like to see it since we custom fabricated a full 3" tail pipe that actually clears everything and tucks up tight and can't be seen. We were also able to get the entire system up tight under the car for excellent ground clearance.

The exhaust is a 3" system from Stinger. We also bought a 3" elbow from Stinger. The muffler is a Dynomax Ultra Flo which is a straight through design and stainless steel. The car is not very loud at all.

We welded flanges between down pipe and 3" elbow. This was done by first bolting both flanges together, then tacking flange to down pipe, next mocking entire system up to insure angles were correct, then place a few good tacks between flange and elbow from the top of the engine compartment. Then remove and finish weld. Also welded flanges on tail pipe after muffler; this is quite easy, bolt both flanges together with one washer between each flange, weld flanges to pipe, remove bolts and washers, run saws all between the two flanges, then grind excess pipe away. The flanges allow us to remove and reinstall the system very easily.

The tail pipe was made using a Stinger over the axle pipe and mandrel bends from Summit Racing. We had to go with UPR control arms because the stock upper control arms are too wide and would not clear the over the axle pipe. The UPR upper control arms are very small width-wise and provide a lot of extra room.

The muffler and tail pipe hangers are heavy duty universal hangers from the local parts store. They are ideal because they hold the system in one place yet do not transfer vibrations to the car. Stock style hangers would allow the system to move too much and the system would hit. We have about a 1/4" clearance between the tail pipe and the frame, gas tank, suspension etc. And with the universal hangers holding it firmly in place it never hits.

After we got the system fully installed we removed everything, wire wheeled it all down, and painted it with VHT dull aluminum header paint. Click on album below for pics:

http://imageshack.us/g/6/painted1.jpg/

etc1006
06-14-2012, 06:55 PM
Looks good!

blueboss
06-15-2012, 04:02 AM
Nice work. Question: Why did you choose to utilize standard gasket flanges rather than ball and socket flanges? Was it a cost or space thing? Just curious.....

oneowner88lx
06-15-2012, 04:59 AM
The flat flanges were a lot cheaper and once welded into place will allow you to remove/reinstall the exhaust system without having to mess with adjusting it. You pretty much can put bolt it back on and its right where it was when you took it off. Saves time. But you have to be very precise when you weld the flanges to the pipes because there is no adjustment.

Stinger
06-15-2012, 09:40 AM
Nice work. Question: Why did you choose to utilize standard gasket flanges rather than ball and socket flanges? Was it a cost or space thing? Just curious.....

There isn't room for a 3" ball & socket flange between the 3" elbow and the downpipe without severely restricting flow (which defeats the purpose of the 3" elbow). There is only about 1/2" of straight pipe section between the elbow and the downpipe so anything that takes more space than that will create issues.

oneowner88lx
06-15-2012, 10:01 AM
Stinger is right. A ball type connection won't fit there like he says. The down pipe makes a turn right where it connects to the elbow.

I like using the flanges anyway so that is the route we took. But since they are not adjustable there is no room for error so make sure everything is lined up 100% before you fully weld it.