Crankshaft Gear Removal

[Gyrhead]

Ok, so I can't get access to a T74P-6306-A and I don't want to booger up the alum crank cover/seal holder thingy by mounting a three jaw puller over it. What is the best way to remove the crank gear?

Also where can I get 2.3L specs such as crank journal dimensions, etc for a stock motor?

I have the following, but am not sure they're correct:


MAIN BEARING JOURNAL DIAMETER 2.399-2.3982
Out-of-Round Limit 0.0006 Max.
Taper Limit 0.0006 per inch
Journal Runout Limit 0.002 Max.
Surface Finish (RMS) 12 Max
Runout Service Limit 0.005

CONNECTING ROD JOURNAL
Diameter 2.0465-2.0472
Out-of-Round Limit 0.0006 Max.
Taper Limit 0.0006 per inch Max.
Surface Finish (RMS) 12 Max.

I have a telescoping bore gauge and could measure the inside the main bearings and rods with bearing shells in place, but what is the best way to measure them? They both keep coming up approx. 10 thou short using my verniers (doh!!) but I don't believe the motor has been apart or rebuilt.

Also, it appears that I could get a Root Mean Square roughness of 12 by polishing with 240-320 crocus cloth

[MikeFleming]

I can loan you the proper tool for the cost of shipping both ways.

Ideally you need a 3-point internal mic to measure the bearings. Kinda pricey for the average Joe though.

BTW - a 12 micron finish is pretty rough for a crank journal. Most crank micropolishers use between a 600 and 1200 grit final.

Only use new bearing shells right out of the box - DO NOT attempt to smooth them.

[Gyrhead]

Mike, that would be great. I can PM you my addy. I'll send the freight out however you prefer if you can calculate it to 03841. Just let me know.

Do you recall what the specs are for the crank? Do those ones I listed earlier look right?

That tool you have looks mighty costly.

Is that Glyptal paint inside the block? If so, did you brush it on? Looks great!

Here is the chart that provided the RMS/Grit equivalence. If you believe the 12 RMS, 320 looks like the starting place. Perhaps I should use 600

http://jvnw.com/images/components/finishes/JVNWFinishChart.pdf

[MikeFleming]

You want the sprocket puller. How about the seal installer?

10601061


Do you recall what the specs are for the crank? Do those ones I listed earlier look right?

10621063




That tool you have looks mighty costly. Yep - I borrowed them from the office.


Is that Glyptal paint inside the block? If so, did you brush it on? Looks great! Yes and yes. Thank you, Thank You very much. Lots of cleaning work first, then masking then brushing. Then enjoying the fumes of paint drying. Part of my Red Everywhere campaign. Followed by more cleaning, drying, masking and painting of the outside of the block (gloss grey) via spray cans.


Here is the chart that provided the RMS/Grit equivalence. If you believe the 12 RMS, 320 looks like the starting place. Perhaps I should use 600 Note that the spec for 12 RMS is a MAXIMUM wear spec. And note that the hardness of the material versus hte grit makes a big difference on the surface finish. Send it out for proper polishing IMHO. Doesn't that cost about $80?

Let me know if you want both tools or just the puller. I'll get them out tomorrow aftn.

[Gyrhead]

Mike, Excellent..that'd be great. Both would be ideal. I see you have the Rotunda Lima set. A $279 value! I promise to return them too. I made the mistake of loaning my Essy rocker/slider tool and never got it back. Forced me to buy a new one at $59.99 plus $29.99 in shipping! Now, I'm cautious. Thankfully you and I go back a ways!