Well, first you have to be banned. For not posting in a year. Then you have to know someone important like Pat or Mitch. Then you have to consume a beer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Unclesams_SVO
That usually works for me.
Printable View
Well, first you have to be banned. For not posting in a year. Then you have to know someone important like Pat or Mitch. Then you have to consume a beer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Unclesams_SVO
That usually works for me.
Hmmm, BBF? banned, beer, friend. :D
Yeah, that's it - BBF.
Post away.
Thank you sir!!
A kitchen teaser pic as well.
Well I almost finished up the fuel lines today, that is until I decided to re-route the lines to tuck them up a little more after checking tire clearance. Then I broke one of my fittings trying to remove it because I made the braided line a little too long. On the bright side I am done with the hard lines. I also relocated the fuel filter as I do not want to have to drop the IRS every time I need to change it. I used a filter from a 98 Cobra that worked better with the AN adapters and fit nicely in front of the fuel tank filler neck (I will install a guard of some sort to keep road debris from messing it up). I am not sure I am a fan of having the return line hanging so low, I may look into a different clamp setup to tuck it up higher. Anyways on with the pictures......
Well I finished up the hard lines today....or so I thought. Before I installed the fuel filter I wanted to double check that the lines would clear the IRS control arms. Well some of them do, but some do not when I fully cycle the control arms. Looks like I was not quite as far as I thought I was. On the plus side, I finished up the front fuel lines in the wheel well and to finish under the hood I have to order a 45* 6AN fitting and all will be done under the hood. I figured while the IRS was still out I would replace the rotors and pads...easy right. Well with adding the EBC green stuff pads and Centric rotors everything was too thick for me to re-install the calipers. Not sure what I did wrong (all the correct part numbers for a 03-04 Cobra). So I have to re-install the old pads (about 30 miles on them) and everything went back together after a little persuasion.
Here are the parts numbers I used
Centric Rotors 120.61046
EBC Green Stuff Pads DP21156
Yep - EBC adds a "special cleaning" layer of grit to "prepare the rotor surfaces" for their pads. And it's ~2mm thick on each pad.
My personal experience with EBC pads is they're a total waste of time, money and labor. Used a set of yellows on the EVO as a track pad. They were soooo bad (overheated in 2 laps!) that I gave all the sets of them I had away. They'd probably be OK for mild street use but there are many other less expensive pads available that do that much better than EBC.
What would be a better choice then?Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeFleming
For track pads (850-1100F operating range)? Do you like low pedal pressure (high friction pad) or high (low friction compounds)?
In the high friction pad arena I like the Carbotech XP12 front and XP10 rear (flavor to taste). IMHO they're too high-friction for street use (or sand or gravel) - like 10 Lbs pedal for 0.5G stop force makes them kinda touchy wren cold. That levels out after they heat up on track though. The 12 is a hotter compound than the 10.
Lots of folks like the Raybestos ST43 compound for track use also.
I would rather have a middle of the road to high friction pad. I have had a car that took way to much pedal to stop (no air in the lines) and I have had one that would have your head smack the steering wheel if you were not paying attention. If I had to choose I would rather smack my head vs' trying to "Flintstone" the car to stop.
What master cylinder and booster are you using with that brake setup?
I believe it is a 95 Cobra brake booster.Quote:
Originally Posted by SVOfish
I am still plugging away at collecting parts. I am just wanting do to everything at once (vs' one thing, then another, then another, etc). So far (thanks to COVID sales) have added to following to my pile of parts.
I thought it was time to upgrade my tubing benders. I also bought a bead roller to modify my intercooler piping with hopes of preventing any of the silicone couplers from flying oof under boost.
I have been playing with the idea of replacing the distributor and going with an LS type of ignition system. Just not sure I want to spend the money on it right now.
I do have a Pimp ECU for all of the parts listed above as well, just not installed yet.
Anyways on with the pretty pictures of the go fast parts.
- Kevko aluminum valve cover
Attachment 9967
- Esslinger cam bar, adjustable cam gear, tensioner, idler pulley, and associated parts
Attachment 9968
- Bo-Port 1.5 cam, roller rockers, new valve springs, lifters
Attachment 9969
- Ron Francis engine wiring harness
Attachment 9970
- MRT hood strut kit
Attachment 9971
- Stinger bi-wing brace
Attachment 9972
- Tubing benders
Attachment 9973
Those are some puuurdy parts! :cool:
Thanks for the update!
I found picture of my console mod that I did years ago and thought I should add it here. I am not a huge fan of pillar pods and could not find anything that I liked so I made this before I noticed any aftermarket gauge holders for this area.
I used card stock to create a templet for the sheet metal, once I was happy with the fit I transferred and cut the metal. Placement of the stock switches and gauges to make it look as "stock" as possible was important to me. So once I was happy with the layout it was time to cut everything out.
I also used some PVC to angle the gauges towards the driver and added some black plastic to help add a little extra touch to the finished product.
I used the following Auto Meter gauges to help with that "factory" look as I thought these matched the factory gauges the best.
Boost 5903
Fuel Pressure 5963 (electronic sensor)
I also decided to make an ash try delete panel and add a little extra flare to it.
Now my next biggest dilemma is where to put my wideband, I would like it in a position that will be easy to see but also not hanging out in the open. Maybe I can modify as steering column pod and make it look like it was designed to be there.
Enough with the talking, on with the pictures.
I really like what you did with those console gauges. I bought the triple gauge console from LMR, but now I need to decide what to do with the factory switches. I'm thinking of 3d printing a piece that will fit in the ashtray location, but I've never designed a 3d printed part before.
Thanks, the only bad thing about the ash tray when it comes to switches is that it is very shallow. I am re-wiring the entire car and would like to see if I can delete the console switches all together and incorporate them some where else to give me room for my wide-band gauge.
Yeah, my ash tray idea would be a wedge shape to elevate the switches to allow them to fit. I may just end up tucking them out of sight because I never use them. I didn't notice what you had in your radio slot, but 2 gauges fit in a radio delete panel with room to spare.