Finished tube welding pics.
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More stuff tomorrow.
Finished tube welding pics.
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More stuff tomorrow.
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Nice work.
Just out of curiosity, why not thru floor sfc's with rails, then attach cage to that?
I'm thinking of doing that and am interested in reasons for/against since I don't know what I'm doing :-)
Mike are you doing all your own tig welding ?
The Machine speaks for itself !!
Already had external, weld-on SFCs (sub-frame connectors) in place beneath the chassis. With cross bars for the rear of the front seat mounts.Just out of curiosity, why not thru floor sfc's with rails, then attach cage to that?
There were four main goals with the jungle gym installation:
1) Reinforce the chassis areas that are prone to stress cracking (spread the loads across a larger area),
2) Provide a place for the front shoulder harnesses to mount,
3) Provide structural support to the rear upper shock mounts for the Coil-Over installation, and
4) Make it look pretty while allowing all the interior panels to be re-installed.
Note it's not a full cage - there are no tubing pieces forward of the B-pillar. So it's perfectly safe as a street car without the need to wear a helmet.
Nah, I paid a professional to do that. And he did very nice work indeed! He's a long-hair that looks very much like Howard Stern. Known around here as "Heavy Metal". His day job is creating sheet metal things and he spends lots of his weekends crewing for a funny car team. His hobbies include welding stuff, making custom sheet metal stuff for cars, building race cars, etc. You know, just a normal guy. He's mostly a Ford guy. Has this custom tube pinto and drives a 1928 Ford custom rod. And an F150.Mike are you doing all your own tig welding ?
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In his new weekend shop, he's building a better corvette. When we have the SVOCOP Annual Meeting in Tucson, we will definitely visit his shop.
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Information overload....can't make it to Phase 3!
Great stuff!
Sorry Chris - just realized that I didn't respond to this question.What core size did you use for your intercooler??
The charge cooler I used was marketed by a company called Treadstone. The core is a Spearco Bar/plate piece measuring 18x6x3.5" and uses cast side tanks with 2.5" inlet/outlet connections. I bought it in mid-2004, iirc.
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Mike,
What I wouldn't give for your garage, skills, and knowledge for just a little while! Really cool stuff.
Ryan
Thank you. Thank you very much.
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Alrighty then - back to the Red Baron's Modifications list.
Not sure if this is a Modification or an Engine topic. So here it is. This section will detail what I used on the Red Baron for a charge cooler, how it was fabricated and installed.
I started with a Spearco bar/plate core measuring 18x6x3.5" that had tapered cast tanks installed. It originally came with 2.5" hose connections. As you will soon see, those bibs were removed and 2.5" OD x 0.060" aluminum tubing was welded directly to the housings.
The charge cooler as received.
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Initial installation/fabrication into the engine compartment. As you may recall, I installed a 7" narrower aluminm radiator to create a 7" opening in the radiator core area. The bracketry on the right side frame rail is temporary bracing.
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Final mounting brace on top to top of radiator core support (with clearance around radiator end tank), clearance to AC compressor in rear, lower mounting brace to lower lip on radiator core support.
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Test fitting tubes and bypass valve installation.
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Looking at bend fabrication to throttle body.
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More tube fitting and some tacked test fits.
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More tube fitting and some tacked test fits.
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Removable tubes welded.
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Blast, and add some semi-gloss black paint.
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Close-up of cooler cooling fins. They're serrated and bent like that to provide LOTS of cooling surface area for the outside, cooling airflow.
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Final installation pictures.
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Heat shielding on the throttle body tube (that's directly over the exhaust manifold!).
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Fabrication of the side air ducting pieces to assist the frontal airflow into the cooler core. Start with test fitting using one of my favorite tools - pop rivits - then weld, paint and mount.
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That 3" black hose at the bottom left of this pic is brake cooling ducting.
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Mike, the only thing I dont like the looks of is that universal radiator hose. I always hated that corrugated look.
It makes me think that someone got lazy and just slapped one on to get going instead of looking for something smooth that fits correctly.
Please dont get mad since it is just my dumb opinion and I understand that with everything being so customized that it is probably almost impossible to find anything else to fit right.
I looked for several days at a couple of local parts houses and never found any hoses that had the formed bends right. I thought that flex hose looked better than using a two-piece hose with a bunch of clamps. I could also go with a PC'd piece of aluminum tube and two short couplers on the ends (and double the usual number of clamps).
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I agree with you about the pieces and clamps, I think that would look worse and just be more possibilities for a coolant leak.
Like I said sometimes you just cant find anything to fit right with so much customization.
It sure doesn't make me like the car any less!
Beautiful job on the car!
How are you securing the air cleaner in the fender?
I'd say that classifies as a modification too!How are you securing the air cleaner in the fender?
First I fabricated the MAF electrical harness and air handling tubing. The electrical EEC wiring is setup to switch easily between VAF/MAF (vane air flow/mass air flow meters) by changing a harness plug then installing the appropriate EEC code into the EEC Tuner chip. The short black 3" aluminum tube mounts the VAT (vane air temp) sensor as this MAF (mass air flow meter) doesn't have an integrated temp sensor (most later ones do).
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This shows testing the Beta MAF system installation (to verify wiring and EEC coding) with the MAF gently resting on the fender.
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I mod'd the MAF air filter housing to work with an K&N cone filter (the housing wouldn't easily fit inside the fender area).
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More air filter mounting.
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Mocked-up a bracket to mount the MAF & filter in the desired location (using my favorite tools, aluminum pop rivit sand galvanized steel straps!).
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After some road testing & a few positional adjustments, a real aluminum bracket was fabricated to mount the MAF and filter.
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Then the final flexible air tube ductlng and BPV (bypass valve) dump port were added when the charge cooler tubing was installed (which are pictured above with the charge cooler mods.
BTW - I have ~20 feet of smooth interior wall air-rated flexible tubing in 3" remaining. If someone has a need.
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Did you have to open up the hole to the fender or was it big enough stock? That tubing is smooth inside? Never would have guessed!
No, that hole is where the stock "cold air" elbow went through the inner fender panel. I added some grommet tubing to the hole first. Perfectly sized.
As an aside, here's some documentation on the VAF/MAF backflow issue. This is the graphical logging data from the Zeitronix wideband unit.
Top trace - in white - is the (noisy at this time!) RPM tach signal
Second (yellow) is EGT.
Third (purple) is TPS in %.
Fourth (aqua) is MAF voltage.
Time scale is horizontal.
Notice the brief WOT period where RPM rises predictably (except for the noise spikes!) and MAF mostly follows. As boost starts, naturally airflow increases more rapidly. Then notice how the MAF immediately drops when throttle is closed completely and RPM slowly drops.
However the MAF signal continues to "bounce" as it tapers down to the normal closed-throttle idle level. That is the trailer-hitching effect commonly associated with airflow measuring systems. The VAF and MAF measure airflow in both directions - in and out of the sensor.
Once the throttle plate is closed, when under boost, the pressure (and flow) reverses direction back to the air meter. That is the bouncing reading in the chart.
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Some more Zeitronix tuning/logging charts. Still had the RPM signal noise.
Traces are A/F (green, ait/fuel ratio), RPM (blue), EGT (yellow, exhaust gas temp sensor), TPS % (purple, throttle position sensor value), and MAF VDC (aqua. voltd on the MAF sensor).
First chart shows WOT in three gears in a row with 78, 90 and 94% throttle respectively. A/F varies between 12.2 and 11.8 during the WOT durations with airflow holding pretty steady in the 4.35-4.45 VDC range, ~40 Lbs/min iirc. Peak EGT hits 1852 shortly after the throttle is closed in the third gear - cooling airflow is reduced, so temps rise. Iirc this was limiting to 17 PSIG. 1850 F is kinda toasty - needs more timing.
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Peak EGT in this is 1713; peak throttle is 98%; airflow peaks at 4.43 VDC; RPM is between 3197 and 6850 on the first WOT period, drops to 4247 after the shift then climbs to 6035; A/F varies between 12.5 (start of WOT - wide open throttle - period) to 11.9 at end of WOT periods).
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Here EGT peaks at 1625 (more ignition advance!) while most of the MAF bouncing is gone. RPM goes from 3025 - 6737 during the WOT period. Looks like a good RPM signal now.
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Progressively getting closer.
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