well at least you figured out you newest problem.... sorry to here that................
I can say that Bruces car is a blast to ride in, she crouches down on the right rear, and lifts the whole front end and you better be hanging for one heck of a wild ride.
would like to get another ride after the suspension is refreshed.
thanks Bruce, Bar
The fresh air system that you installed is what I need to do for my K & N to get cool fresh air to it.
That is a nice looking setup, and no doubt much more effective, now that it is in the fender & out of the engine compartment.
Ron
The problem I never fix on my cars is the nut that holds the steering wheel
I was amazed how much room there was inside the fender! Being an 86 it was easy to do and cheap too. I wish I still had my air there though. Would have made it a little tougher.
Well I finally got the PIMP fixed and tuned to my liking. Better late than never. I want to say that with all that happened I would recommend a PIMP system to anyone thinking of this upgrade. Stinger and Wess K are very easy to deal with and have enough patience for people like me who have 0 experience with this type of thing. Next I am going to do my bottom end over the winter. This would be a good time to do the front end also. Will post in the appropriate forums on these possibilities.
Nice to see you moving along on your project
I have used a couple piggy backs in the past and tried learning linux once, I never really trusted myself and couldn't really get the hang of it or tell if what I was doing was right or not but was able to muddle through it for a while. Im ordering the PiMP next week, already ordered their FMIC and complete exhaust including the 3" turbo outlet. Im hoping for a experience like yours, I think I can handle it but am nervous then I keep hearing everyone that gets one that it can be learned pretty quick and is self tunning for the most part.et us know as you learn more on the PiMP for those of us getting one or thinking of getting one
They are great fun to learn. The self tuning thing works after you know a little about it. I being a less than average computer user was challenged by the terminology from time to time. The great part is if you have questions you have some one to ask. They were pretty good about getting back to you in short order. If you read long enough your answers are on Stingers website. The one thing I will say is follow the directions to the letter. Its way to easy to think you already have something covered and then you find its not. I had a hard time remembering to save tunes before shutting off the car, old habit of stopping and turning the key off. Learn about the burn and save as, before you get in too far or you can loose all your work. Then when you redo it remember to set all the parameters over or you may be trying to tune a 350 V8-trust me it doesn't work so well.
Just read the whole thread nice work! What does the Pimp system cost?
Here is the info on Stinger's site: http://www.stinger-performance.com/universalparts.htmlOriginally Posted by SnakePlisskin
There's nothing more to see here, now move along...
Doing a search on TF I found SVO oil pan with a baffle in it? Mine has no baffle, did the factory put in baffles? I have a big ding in my oil pan. I see them for sale on Rock auto for $59 without the baffle. Wondering what is correct, Bruce
Correct, no factory sump baffles.
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
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Well this is very discouraging. We were going to assemble my short block yesterday and the first thing we did stopped us in our tracks. Seems Ford screwed up the auxillary shaft bearing bore and went oversize on it. Not a problem for Ford in 86. Just put a bigger bearing in the hole. Now the bearing part number comes up discontinued and a dealer search found nothing. Called the bearings Inc. in our area and they told me I'm out of luck with them. So what do I do? Maybe I can make a bronze one? Looking for ideas, Bruce
OK misinformation cost me a couple of weeks but the bearing issue is resolved-Thank you Brian Esslinger. I have gotten to degreeing the cam and now have to plot it on a graph to see where it falls. Its a big step in the right direction-YEA!
Degree wheel 3.jpg
I am glad to hear that you got the bearing problem worked out ok....it did not sound like good news a couple of weeks ago on post #51.
Ron
The problem I never fix on my cars is the nut that holds the steering wheel
"I'll show you mine if you show me yours".I have gotten to degreeing the cam and now have to plot it on a graph to see where it falls.
Without valve caps:
NoCaps1.jpg
With 0.150" valve caps:
150Caps.jpg
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
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I take it the lash caps changed the geometry and that changed the curve? The second one looks steeper.
Changed geometry, yes. The thing to notice is the effective longer valve stem (with lash caps) makes the peak lift lower.
Note the vertical blue line (lower graph) is exactly at the center overlap point, which came in exactly at 371 [crank] degrees, 11 degrees. he vertical yellow line is the split overlap zero point, aka 360 crank degrees. To set the cam from it's currently retarded (as measured) position to zero, it needs to be advanced 5.5 cam degrees.
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Are either one of these graphs current set up?
No. Those graphs are of the stump puller cam, which was dyno'd at the 2006 SVOCA reunion at 319HP, 367 Tq at it's first dyno test
The current cam is an Essy 2277. Likes the revs real high. May go back to the stump cam someday toughh. Bottom end torque was amazing.
Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984
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Well using Excel was a learning experience for me! What cam was the stump puller? How much boost?
Continue to make progress, I finally got the valve cover back from powder coating. The header is on and I cleaned up the engine bay and did a little paint work yesterday. First time with a safety wire tool!
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