Hey Ray! Long time!Stump-puller cam = Ranger roller? If not.....what cam is it, Mike?
Nah, I am not an advocate of loosing power using a RR. The cam I refer to the stump puller made this dyno chart on it's first session:
Pull2006.jpg
It measures 0.565" lift, 240 degrees (@ 0.050"). Same profile intake and exhaust
.CamMap.jpg
After running the Essy 2277 for a while, I've decided I like to have "some* power below 4000.
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So is that a custom grind or are you just keeping the manufacturer a secret?
Hey, Mike! Based on my ghetto extrapolation (laying dividers between the lobe noses, transferring it to the hash marks at the bottom and dividing by 2), it appears that this cam has an LSA of around 110°. It also appears to have about 70-ish° of overlap. Do those figures sound familiar? The ramps sure look steep! I'm guessing that fairly-stout v/springs were/are required. Hydraulic or solid?
I got it decades back, I think, from Nick Maranello (sp?). It's a hydraulic roller with some pretty aggressive ramps as Ray notes. I had it somewhat advanced during the dyno run above and expect to install it this time 6 degrees more on the late side. Variety. I'm using the massive springs that came with the Essy d-port head (after machning down the guide to allow for more lift - a long story that's mostly covered in the Red Baron Power thread).
In the graph above the yellow line is exactly 360 (aka TDC) and the blue line is where the split overlap came in with the cam sprocket set to zero. So to get to exactly straight up needed 11 [crank] degrees advancing.
This graph above is a very good example of why I always tell folks to use a dial indicator and measure where the cam actually is - then use the adjustable pulleys to get it where you want it. "Assuming" that if the sprocket is set to zero that the cam is straight up is not very accurate and absolutely cannot be replicated between engines or builds.
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According to my limited research, Nick Mannarino (grin) of Modern Performance used to offer a few (two?) hydraulic roller cams for the 2.3T Lima engines. Merkurencyclopedia lists their "stage 1" at .505" lift, 221°/221° duration @ .050 and 110° lobe separation (LINK).
I have one of those MP stage-1 cams that I bought used from a TF member, but I haven't tried it yet. Perhaps you have a "stage 2"?
Perhaps. It's DEFINITELY not a 0.505" lift lobe. No IDing numbers or markings on it. I have pics of it in the Red Baron Power thread, iirc.I have one of those MP stage-1 cams that I bought used from a TF member, but I haven't tried it yet. Perhaps you have a "stage 2"?
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Well I am finally making some progress this winter. I got a mill bit the right size and milled out the header tubes and made up standoffs. Need to go to my welder this week and get that finished. Then I can grind the manifold flat again and begin routing the oil and water lines for the new turbo. Went to work this morning and turned up a new OS wastegate. Ground the turbo outlet some for clearance. Milled out the strut mount holes to improve scrub radius
Wastegate flapper.jpgHeader standoffs.jpgwastegate flapper clearance.jpg
How big did you go on the flapper and hole?
1.250" flapper, the hole is just over 1" but it is not centered to the flapper.
Nice work Bruce! That flapper plate shouldn't allow anything by, regardless of alignment to the hole. The standoffs look good too, allow much better access to the heads of the fasteners.
Ted
86 SVO Mustang
17 MINI Cooper S Clubman ALL4
So my header mods are done. I got the standoffs welded and machined the turbo flange flat. Then made up a fixture and bolted it to the flange so I could put it on the surface grinder at work. Ground the head mating surface flat and smooth with in .001" per port and .002 overall. That should seal
Working on my front end. Del a lum bushings needed to be custom fit as the thrust washers were binding. Trimmed them down and they move now. Have to figure out what to do with the dust boots for my struts and I can bolt one side together.
Turbo is on but the intake tubing isn't long enough anymore so more to buy. Bigger turbo but further from the air cleaner go figure.
Been a while since I updated. Had the radiator fan go out in Tulsa. Not being able to get a replacement motor for a 90 Super Coupe fan I wound up with a Flex-a-lite fan. They mount with plastic pins through the radiator which I didn't like at all. The fan was tight against the radiator and the weight was on the aluminum radiator tubing. So I got busy this week and made some new mounts for the radiator and fan shroud. Now the weight is back on the mounts and the fan is 1/16" away from the radiator. How do you like them?
very nice!!!
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Those look awesome Bruce!!
Bad choices make great stories....!
Thanks the steel ones I had made in my garage worked but with the new fan and a new employer since I made those this was the perfect opportunity to Up-grade.
Just free hand on the Bridgeport. My programming skills are about 3 generations behind the times.