New Rear Calipers, No Parking Brake!

[Nito2v]

Hi COP! This is my first post, and I actually have only owned the car for a couple months (since Jan.) I went to get it inspected and it failed pretty bad. Pass. side caliper was leaking fluid and both calipers were frozen inside the bore. I replaced the old calipers with re-manufactured replacements. It was an easy install and the brakes on BOTH sides were bled with fresh dot 3 fluid. When the pedal is depressed, both calipers successfully apply a braking force and we couldn't turn the rotors! When we tried using the parking brake, we had absolutely no braking force from either caliper. The drivers-side PB actuator rotates from a 5 o'clock position to a 6 o'clock position when the PB is engaged but the rotor still moves freely. The pass. side actuator doesn't move freely and is in a 4 o'clock position. Not to mention, the cable doesn't move when the PB is engaged on this side. This was also true before the install on the passenger side.

Anything we missed or could go back and check or adjust? I know after bleeding, pumping the brake moved the piston further out of the bore, if I were to pump the brake more, do you think it would move out closer enough to get some braking force out of the PB?

Because this is my first post, here's the car. She was pretty rough when I got her. Managed to shine up the paint from completely faded brick red to a deep red metallic like it should be.

IMG_1247_zps7fd97ddd.jpg

[TheSVOTrust]

Welcome

What you need to do is head north on PA route 113 toward Telford. You want to be going about 60 to 70 MPH when you get to the hard right to go to Souderton. At Reliance Rd pull the Ebrake on with gusto !! (don't hit the brakes) If you can't make the turn onto main st you need to adjust the cable !

Mark
P.S. Sorry ..... it you are seeing the Ebrake cables move.....then you can adjust under the handle inside the car (under the console slit). They usually need a little tightening up - but not much.

[Nito2v]

LOL

Mark, the cable was tightened at the center console adjustment screw but yielded no new results.

[MikeFleming]

Sounds like at least one of the rear cables is frozen. Replace both. There is a balance bar just beneath the parking brake handle that both side cables attach to. The center bolt/rod merely adjusts the center pivot, NOT each cable. Look to see that both parking brake handle arms are moving when the parking brake is engaged. If not, replace both cables.

Once the rear caliper pistons are screwed out enough to allow the pads to make proper contact with the rotors, you can then work on getting the parking brake function to work correctly - ASSUMING the parking brake components are actually properly installed and working in the rebuilt calipers. You can manually adjust the piston position by threading out the piston (then re-bleeding) or by pressing the brake pedal [up to] hundreds of times until the pedal pushes out the piston enough to contact the rotor. In either case, this must be done before setting the parking brake function.

Look here for a quick reference on how the caliper & parking mechanism works:

http://www.svocop.com/Articles/2/index.html

Another common point of failure regarding the SVO rear is the proportioning valve. However if you actually can get fluid out when bleeding the calipers, we can conclude it's passing fluid.

Re-reading your post, it appears that the parking brake components in the calipers might not be working properly. And you have a dead cable.

If you're brave enough, take the back side of the calipers apart and inspect/repair as needed.

Then replace both cables.

[Nito2v]

That post really answered a lot. I'll look into ordering a replacement cable. The rears are definitely passing fluid though! We bled the rear calipers and after passing all the old fluid out we noticed that new fluid was reaching the new calipers. The arm on the pass. side caliper is not moving, even when the cable is removed. It could a faulty replacement. The driver's side caliper seems to work just fine but probably isnt out far enough for the parking brake to work. I'll be back with results sooner or later. Thanks!

[MikeFleming]

I'll look into ordering a replacement cable.

In case I didn't mention it previously - replace BOTH cables. If one is bad, the other is not far behind.

[Jack B]

Welcome Nito,

Looks like we are about 65 miles apart. Maybe I might see another SVO at an area car show this summer?

[Nito2v]

You will definitely see me at the American Muscle car show! Not sure about any others. I know CJPP holds a show the same weekend in Harrisburg. But if I went to that one I would probably bring my new edge.

[Nito2v]

Good news. While I haven't replaced the pass. rear cable (if I do I'll replace both), I was able to pump the brakes enough to get the parking brake to hold via the driver's side wheel. This was a good temporary fix until I can get both calipers to hold. I'm sure the pass. side would, but the cable to doesn't move on that side. Better 1 than none! Thanks so much all of you for your advice.

[Jack B]

Good to hear..will be at the American Muscle show as well..still waiting for the date

[MikeFleming]

Party On, Garth!

[Nito2v]

Figure I would keep it in the same thread. But idling the car today, 5 minutes in, the car began idling very rough. It almost sounded like it was surging from 400-800, barely able to keep itself running when all of a sudden smoke arises from the motor, right around the front of the turbo manifold. I didn't get a very good look because I shut the car off right away but that's where I suspect it. I didn't notice anything unusual after that except it would die at stop signs.

[MikeFleming]

Those two symptoms might not be related, but I'd first look for an oil/air leak around the exhaust side of the cam cover gasket. If oil can leak out, air can leak in.

Most uneven, rough idle issues are caused by intake system air leaks (between the VAF and intake valve).

[Meotchh]

Nito2V, I moved your last post to the engine forum since it doesn't fit in with ' Brakes, wheels & tires'.

[Nito2v]

Gotchya!

Okay, this is related.

Overnight the car seems to lose brake pressure. The brakes also only brake down low in the pedal travel. The prev. owner got in touch and said he had the rear brakes professionally redone because he had the same problem. I'm thinking the problem is elsewhere?

Thanks!

[Raven855]

Have you checked you brake booster? It could be the source of your vacuum leak and the reason of your poor idling.

[Nito2v]

I'm about to agree with you. Is there a way to test the booster? It stays idling (poor idle quality) but as I said pressure is lost overnight, but is replenished it if I go for a ride or pump the brakes. Seems better when warmed up too.

[MikeFleming]

Might just replace the hose and check valve first. Less work, less $$, most likely failure points.