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Thread: Creation of the Red Baron - Phase 4: Power

  1. #21
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    I'd be afraid to run that head....
    Fortunately the gremlins only come out at night!
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  2. #22
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    Oil pump time. Used a Melling pump. Disassemble, check edges and clearances, adjust as needed. Deck all the surfaces, blast (walnut shells) to clean, wash, rinse, re-assemble.

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    Check fitment of the oil pick-up tube. Desired bottom of pickup to pan clearance printed in the Tech section of the Esslinger catalog for reference, found here: http://www.esslingeracing.com/catalog/tech-section.pdf:

    "Oil pick-up should be 1/8" to 3/16" from the bottom of the pan to the bottom of the oil sump".

    This requires some measuring and adjusting. In my particular situation for this engine I needed to relocate the support strap that fits onto the #4 main cap stud as its height changes when using main cap straps.

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    Measuring the distance from the block pan gasket surface to the bottom of the pick-up tube thingie.
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    Measuring from gasket surface to bottom of pan. Be sure to add compressed thickness of the gasket being used (4-piece cork in this application).

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    Once we know how much to relocate the pickup bottom, we can work on getting the support brace to fit onto the stud. Cut off old brace, bend it to work, mark new location, glue in place.

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    Used a flexible silicon-brass filler.

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  3. #23
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    ARP main studs, straps, washers,12-point nuts and installation/removal tool.

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    Oil galley plugs installed. New Ford parts with Vibra-Tite on them.

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    Pics of painted oil sump (aka oil pan).

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  4. #24
    Half Boost SVOC's Avatar
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    Oh my!

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    Originally Posted by Meotchh
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    Anyone who owns an SVO belongs in a Psychiatric hospital.

  5. #25
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    Oh my!
    Lions and Tigers and Bears??
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  6. #26
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    More parts prepping. Here's the front crank pulley in 3-groove. After powder coating. BTW I do not recommend PCing v-belt pulleys for a high-speed engine as there is VERY little friction for the belts to grab. In any case here is the timing TDC notch marked with some white touch-up paint to make it easily visible.

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    Other end of crank: Mounting flywheel with new ARP bolts & some 262 Red Loctite. Note the crank bolt hole threads are 12mm x 1.0mm and you'll want a bottoming tap to clean those holes.

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    Lastly always check run-out after mounting the flywheel to the crank (much easier with the engine on a stand) just to make sure it's running flat. If it's off by more than 0.002", dismount, clean the mounting surfaces again, remount, re-torque, re-test. If still off, surface or replace the flywheel.

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    Assemble the pistons to the rods. New word: SpiroLoc. These pistons use a triple lap SpiroLoc. Installation takes some practice while removal takes a special tool to unwind them out of the groove. You can never have too many spares locs. Also be sure to check the total end play of the piston pin inside the piston with both locs in place. MAX of 0.006", prefer 0.003".

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    One side installed.

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    Add piston pin and rod - be sure to get the rod orientation correct!

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    Second SpiroLoc with pin installed. Time for rings.

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  7. #27
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    These pistons have the pin bore intersecting a portion of the oil ring land area - the result of a longer rod and longer stroke which requires the use of a shorter height piston (without a tall deck block). The bottom of the oil ring groove uses a thick hard steel bottom spacer support ring and it goes in first. Note that almost all rings have some mark to indicate the up direction while these bottom groove supports have a dimple on the bottom - that goes in the ring groove void to keep them from rotating.

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    Standard three-piece PC-style oil ring with a wavy expander and two thin steel wipers with hard-chromed edges.

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    Note the wavy expander has little steps on the top and bottom to hold the chrome rails out against the cylinder walls. Be sure to get the chrome rails to mount on the steps properly.

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    Finished ring package installed onto piston.

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    Rod/piston installation into block. Magic thread and bearing lube.

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    Clean rod bolts. Note the reduced diameter shank, the large radius reliefs, rolled threads and 12-point, washered-face heads. These 3/8x24 bolts go to 50 Ft-Lbs with lube.

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    Rods use dowels to maintain rod-to-cap alignment.

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    Note the already work-hardened (& smooth) bearing surface where the washered head on the rod bolt mates to. These surfaces must be fully torqued together at least five times before final assembly if you have a new rod or fastener. If not, proper torque cannot be achieved.

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    Lube everything.

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  8. #28
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    Piston and rod install from the crankshaft side.

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    Short block assemblies. Posi-Drive head driver (similar to a #3 Phillips bit) to install the screws (6x1.0mm) that mount the auxiliary shaft thrust plate. These screws have a captive, star lock washer on them - same screws and thrust plate as used on the camshaft.

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    Fuel pump cover plate and gasket. From the old days.

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    Auxiliary shaft and front crank seal holders installed.

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    Assemble pick-up tube to oil pump. There is not clearance to tighten these bolts with the pump on the block.

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    Oil pump mounts here - and does not use a gasket.

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    DO NOT forget the hex drive shaft. BTW - it's an 8mm hex (5/16"). it should install from the bottom and have a stop ring installed to prevent it from being pulled out when R&Ring the distributor.

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    12-point bolts to mount the oil pump to the block.

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    Some Loctite 262 for the pick-up tube support jamb nut.

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    Bottom end ready to button up.

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    Sump bolts fresh from the blast cabinet.

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    Sump that was previously painted and stored.

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  9. #29
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    Pan installation. Note the hex extension on the front crank snout for the degree wheel and the crank timing reference marks on the flywheel.. The crank belt sprocket is installed also.

    A little dab of silicone to help seal the hump sections of the 4-piece sump gasket.

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    Degree wheel installed on front of crank snout. Now we know exactly where TDC is for all cylinders. Make reference marks on the flywheel - so we cab find exact TDC again after the head is installed.

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    The head gasket I'm using. Cometic MLS in 3.830" bore at 0.045" compressed thickness.

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  10. #30
    Some Boost stott's Avatar
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    can't believe the essy heads are that junky.

    shame.

  11. #31
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    can't believe the essy heads are that junky.
    They're in total denial whenever I ask them about it. And it's not like I'm the only person that has these issues.
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  12. #32
    Half Boost SVOC's Avatar
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    Looking great Mike!

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    Originally Posted by Meotchh
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    Anyone who owns an SVO belongs in a Psychiatric hospital.

  13. #33
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    I need to get back to this thread!

    So much stuff to post, so little time.
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  14. #34
    Half Boost
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    Mike how did you do the external waste gate on your Rods header? Plumbing ect?

  15. #35
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    No external wastegate -using the internal dump valve as standard on the T3. The dump hole is a bit bigger though.
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  16. #36
    Half Boost
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    I'm still running the stock waste gate and the boost spikes to 19.5 then drops to 16. I would like it to go and stay at 18. Does the enlarged hole make this possible? Also what did you end up with for HP?

  17. #37
    Some Boost FoxBuddy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeFleming View Post
    Mask and paint inside of engine.
    Attachment 4392
    Attachment 4397
    My naive self has never seen this done before. Using a thermal paint; is that for more uniform heat conduction? Less chance of a hot spot? Inquiring minds want to know!

    I just started reading your thread here Mike and so far quite interesting. I look forward to learning more about these blocks, engines and cars.

    Quote Originally Posted by MikeFleming View Post
    I need to get back to this thread! So much stuff to post, so little time.
    I hear you! My build thread for my '82 on FEP was always around 1-2 months behind. I have had the car on the road for a month and the posts don't reflect it.

    I appreciate the detail you are going to in this thread so keep it up!

  18. #38
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    Using a thermal paint; is that for more uniform heat conduction? Less chance of a hot spot? Inquiring minds want to know!
    The paint was originally used, many decades ago, to keep the sand from coming out of the castings and to provide a smooth surface for oil to drip off of more easily. Not for any special thermal insulation properties - just capable of handing internal engine temps and oil/fluid impervious.

    And it's red. With a hint of orange.

    ... always around 1-2 months behind. I have had the car on the road for a month and the posts don't reflect it.
    A month? Excuse me? That'd be almost real-time.

    This car was [mostly] finished seven years ago. I think I'm gonna win the "behind a bit" contest.
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  19. #39
    Half Boost Ford Builder's Avatar
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    Wink

    GET ERRRR DONE Mike
    The Machine speaks for itself !!

  20. #40
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    Remind me in November. Plate is full just now.
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