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Thread: Creation of the Red Baron - Phase 4: Power

  1. #41
    Half Boost Ford Builder's Avatar
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    Wink

    You're kidding?
    The Machine speaks for itself !!

  2. #42
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    Nope - next three months are prime track season around here. Then we have our week or two of cold and a bit of rain, then more track season.
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  3. #43
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    Well, this is close to November, Yes?

    OK then. Let's continue with the engine assembly and fitting of stuff. Next up is the cylinder head assembly, then cam and valve clearances, lift profiles, etc.

    Cleaned head gasket surface of assembled short block (pan installed).
    Img_5410.jpg

    Note oiled, lapped surface. Cometic specs a VERY smooth, flat gasket surface.
    Img_5411.jpg
    Img_5412.jpg

    Cometic standard bore MLS gasket with cleaned, bagged head in background.
    Img_5413.jpg

    Cometic head gasket placed on block. Note shortened block-to-head dowel pins! Also note flywheel paint markings of TDC, & BDC & 30 before and after. A reference check, if needed, after the degree wheel is removed.
    Img_5414.jpg

    Crank snout extension and degree wheel/pointer installed after TDC was defined.
    Img_5415.jpg

    Light valve springs for checking valve-to-piston clearance and checking cam timing. Note the massively-huge lifter bosses that are cast to the cam towers. Aluminum flexes a LOT more than iron and the extra material is critical with heavy valve springs.
    Img_5416.jpg

    The actual valve springs. A dual spring setup from Esslinger than comes standard in their aluminum D-port head.
    Img_5418.jpg

    Kidney-shaped chamber with the larger valves (standard size for the d-port aluminum unit) at 1.89"/1.59" using standard 11/32" stems.
    Img_5420.jpg

    Those threaded things that keep the head from coming away from the block. Appropriate lube (oil on the coarse threads in the block, hand-tight, and the moly lube for the washers, nuts and fine thread ends of the studs. The studs come out and get re-installed each time the head comes off and goes on. The bolt and hex shank (between the combo wrenches) is the tool I use to install and remove the studs. 17mm hex, btw.
    Img_5423.jpg

    Note the front lower recess for the stud. That hole also intersects with the cam belt tensioner spring rest post and the rest post bolt needs to be removed to loosen/tighten that front intake side stud. IMHO that's a very poor design. You can see the threaded hole a bit going towards the front of the first cam tower.
    Img_5424.jpg

    Studs installed hand-tight (like 20-40 In-Lbs) into the block. The small hole on the side of the cam tower a couple inches above the cam cover gasket surface is the oil drain from the front cam bearing behind the front cam oil seal. Always make sure that hole is clear unless you happen to like oil messes.
    Img_5425.jpg

    Copious amount of thread lube.
    Img_5426.jpg

    Hard washer, then nut. 14mm 12-point.
    Img_5428.jpg

    Tighten those things. This is the first compression cycle on this Cometic gasket. I 3-stepped them to 75 Ft-Lbs. Note I'm only using this gasket to get the proper head-to-block clearance (later measured at ~0.044") for setting/checking the cam timing and valve-to-piston clearances. The head has to come off again anyway to fit the proper valve springs when a fresh gasket will be installed and tightened.
    Img_5429.jpg
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  4. #44
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    Time to install the cam belt with associated sprockets, tensioners, shields and stuff. This should all be pretty self-explanatory.

    Esslinger adjustable cam sprocket. All round tooth stuff.
    Img_4622.jpg

    Rear belt cover installed. Note the bolt hole just an inch away from the cam sprocket outer, at about 5 O'Clock just to the right of the timing pointer marks, where the belt cover has a U shape hole. That is the threaded hole that interferes with the front intake head stud area as mentioned previously.
    Img_4623.jpg

    Race Engineering auxiliary sprocket installed.
    Img_4624.jpg

    Belt, tensioner, spring, etc. installed and set.
    Img_4625.jpg

    Magnetic base on the iron block with the indicator on an intake valve retainer to measure valve movement with light valve springs installed on #1.
    Img_4626.jpg

    Rocker arm installed, indicator zero'd with valve completely closed. Not shown is a threaded, adjustable lifter used to set the lash (clearance between the rocker roller and the cam base circle) to zero. A wee bit of white grease on the lobes. Only the cylinder #1 intake rocker is installed at this time.
    Img_4627.jpg

    The dial indicator shaft needs to be parallel to the valve movement for accurate readings. Better shot of the height adjustable lifter (test lash adjuster).
    Img_4628.jpg

    Measure valve lift at 5 crank degree (or 10 degrees if you're lazy) movements and write them down. Plot in Excel to see where the valves open/close in relationship to crankshaft movement, and how much the valves open. Check retainer to guide clearances too. Look for clearance issues with the rocker and the cam lobe, the retainer, etc. throughout the whole lift range
    Img_4629.jpg

    Here's the lift plot. The yellow vertical line shows the 360 crank degrees point, or TDC overlap. The Blue vertical line shows the split-overlap point of the intake and exhaust lobes (actually valve movement, which is slightly different from lobe position)- where both valves are open the same amount. The split overlap point comes out to 371 crank degrees, with the valves opening after that TDC, what we call "late" or "retarded". To set the cam "straight-up", the cam needs to be advanced 5.5 cam degrees (the lobes shifted to the left in the diagram). Remember that cam degrees are half of crank degrees. And we ALWAYS reference everything in crank degrees.
    CamMapping.gif

    So the setting on the adjustable cam sprocket needs to be rotated to 5.5 degrees more advanced than it is now. Then the ZERO mark can then be established on the sprocket inner and outer pieces for future reference.
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  5. #45
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    Some out of order detail pics for reference.
    Img_5430.jpg

    The Esslinger aluminum head uses two screws to retain the front cam seal.
    Img_5431.jpg
    Img_5432.jpg
    Img_5433.jpg

    Full system oil pressure runs down the center of the cam so a sealant (I prefer teflon tape) is required. Note with new cam installations be sure to verify there is a 1/4" pipe plug installed at the back of the cam. While it won't leak oil outside the engine if missing, it will not allow the engine to build any oil pressure and usually results in tears for new bearings by the time the issue is discovered.
    Img_5434.jpg

    19mm hex goes to 60 Ft-Lbs. Easier to tighten it after the cam, belt is installed and tightened.
    Img_5435.jpg
    Img_5436.jpg

    THAT is the problem bolt that interferes with the front intake side head bolt recess.
    Img_5437.jpg
    Img_5438.jpg

    17mm hex to 30 Ft-Lbs in the auxiliary shaft. No oil comes through there so no sealant is needed.
    Img_5440.jpg
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  6. #46
    Half Boost rodster's Avatar
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    Great stuff!

    So that is what my engine should look like under all of the gunk.

  7. #47
    Half Boost Ford Builder's Avatar
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    Question

    Looking good Mike, so when do we get to see you fire the beast ?
    The Machine speaks for itself !!

  8. #48
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    Once the cam positioning is set and all the piston-to-valve clearances are checked (always more than 0.080"), it's time to install the lash adjusters without the springs and set the collapsed adjuster lash adjustment between the rollers and the cam lobes. I annotated (in red) the total required shim values for each lash adjuster hole.

    Disassemble all the lash adjusters and pull the springs out. These just happened to be new units so there was minimal oil mess.
    Img_6071.jpg
    Img_6069.jpg

    Reassemble each springless lash adjuster and put it into a lifter hole. From here on out, lash adjusters and rocker arms are permanently assigned to a particular spot and will not be moved around.
    Img_6072.jpg

    Note the problem front tensioner post bolt that protrudes into the head bolt recess. Grrr ... This lash adjuster needs 0.066" of shim to raise it for proper cam lobe clearance.
    Img_6073.jpg
    Img_6076.jpg

    Valve stem as is.
    Img_6077.jpg

    Lash cap installed. This cap is from Race Engineering and increases the valve stem length by 0.150". Necessary in this installation to get the valve lift correct. It slides over the valve stem end and is retained in-between the rocker arm edges on the top side. The large valve springs keep it all together. With the Esslinger 2277 cam installed, the lift came out correct with no lash caps.
    IMG_6078.jpg

    The lash adjuster springs have been re-installed after shimming, with all rockers in place. In these pic the intake manifold lower, injectors and fuel rail/FPR are installed.
    IMG_6080.jpg

    This head uses 14mm x 19mm washer seat spark plugs. ( Pay no attention to the exhaust ports behind the invisible curtain. )
    IMG_6081.jpg
    IMG_6082.jpg

    Moly assembly lube smeared on the lobes, rollers, valve tips and lash caps, etc.
    IMG_6083.jpg
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  9. #49
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    More detail pics of some things already covered.

    RE Cam Belt Tensioner.
    Img_5442.jpg
    Img_5446.jpg

    RE 0.150" Lash caps.
    Img_5447.jpg

    Stem no cap.
    Img_5448.jpg

    With lash cap installed.
    Img_5449.jpg

    With rocker installed.
    Img_5450.jpg

    "Short" outer timing cover.
    Img_5451.jpg

    Front crank pulley installed, still keeping the timing gear extension installed. Verifying TDC on the pulley with white paint to help find the mark.
    Img_5452.jpg

    Lower intake manifold.
    Img_5860.jpg
    Img_5861.jpg

    Note proper (PE) location for knock sensor.
    Img_5862.jpg
    Img_5867.jpg

    Knock sensor before installation.
    Img_5868.jpg
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  10. #50
    Half Boost rodster's Avatar
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    Hey.. I see a red 'B' on the timing belt cover! I have it on my 84 as well.

    One of those 'concours' things?

  11. #51
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    Hey.. I see a red 'B' on the timing belt cover! I have it on my 84 as well.

    One of those 'concours' things?
    That may well be an original outer cover (well, a partial section of one) from the collective parts pile. Iirc I shortened it a couple decades back. I only use that when I need to locate/verify TDC without wanting the whole cover in place - like when installing a new belt or swapping cams.
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  12. #52
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    Looking good Mike, so when do we get to see you fire the beast ?
    I might have video from the Birmingham dyno session somewhere. Another thing to search for (and upload to youtu.be).
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  13. #53
    SHAFT stockman1's Avatar
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    Mike looks like you do some really nice work, wish you were closer would love to look over your shoulder and learn! Let me know when you dyno?

  14. #54
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    Sorry, didn't find any videos of the dyno pulls. The only dyno event it has been to was on September 01, 2006 in Birmingham, AL.

    Here's some shots of the track day at Barber Motorsports Park, aka "The Golf Course", it's maiden track voyage after the restoration process with about 500 street miles to get things sorted out. Dave and myself cleaning the front glass with our team shirts on.
    Dsc00362.jpg
    Dsc00367.jpg
    Dsc00368.jpg
    Dsc00369.jpg
    Dsc00370.jpg
    Dsc00373.jpg

    Those white wheels sure do stand out.
    Dsc00384.jpg
    Dsc00388.jpg

    Dyno time.
    Dsc00390.jpg
    Dsc00391.jpg
    Dsc00394.jpg

    Results. 319 HP, 367 Ft-Lbs on 17 PSIG.
    Pull.jpg

    Zetronix logging data. Top-to-bottom graphs are A/F ratio in green, noisy RPM signal in blue, EGT in yellow, TPS in pinkish, and MAF voltage in aqua. I have since fixed the noisy tach signal by taking the low-level signal of the PIP directly from the EEC.
    pull-z.jpg
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  15. #55
    Half Boost rodster's Avatar
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    I know I'm repeating myself.....but this stuff is soooo cool! No wonder I like hanging out here!

  16. #56
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    Excellent work done by you and your machinist. I'm shocked by the sloppy machine work from Esslinger.

  17. #57
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    I'm shocked by the sloppy machine work from Esslinger.
    They have only denied their "quality". And still claim their castings are with good, solid aluminum rather than soft, used beer can material.

    I pity anyone that would run one "out of the box".
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  18. #58
    Some Boost
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    I hate to resurrect this, especially if it was mentioned elsewhere, but what pistons did you wind up using, and what rod length?

  19. #59
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    ^
    Race Engineering 8.5 CR forged units with a 0.927" piston pin, 0.030" oversize, 5.5" Crower rods properly bushed for the larger pin diameter. Lightened (five pounds removed), cryo-quenched 2.5L crank.
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  20. #60
    Half Boost rodster's Avatar
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    Just your average parts. lol

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