Uh yeah. The spec for total toe-in is somwhere between 1/8 and 1/16".
The pic measurement you're seeing is the distance between the string (aka fishing line) and the rim edge. There's kinda a logistical issue with getting the string to actually touch the rims with the tyre in the way and all so the parallel string is placed a few inches (in this case about 1.5-2.0") from the rim to be clear of the tyre and other body stuffs.
Adjust the string / stands position to where it's exactly exactly 1.5" (or 2.0") from the front *and* rear edge of the rear wheel (here we are making a rather large assumption that the rear axle is straight, centered and exactly perpendicular to the center line of the chassis and that none of the wheels have any bends or runout, etc.).
Then measure the string distance to the front and rear of the front rims. Subtract the two values by using some of that math magic stuff to come up with tow-in or tow-out (toe-in means the front of the rim is farther from the string than the rear of the rim). I always ask my daughter to assist when there's math involed.
As far as enough thread engagement pf the tie rod (male threads) into the tie rod ends (female threads with the 90-degree ball joint at the far end), make sure there's at least 8 full turns of thread engagement at the installed length.
Note this method gets a bit more complex if there is adjustable toe for the rear wheels. In those cases we usually have a mark showing exactly where the chassis centerline is on the front and rear. Then place the stands exactly the same distance from the centerline marks on each side.
Lastly make sure you roll the car at least ten feet into the position under full weight before setting the stands and string. If you have to raise a corner using a jack, you will need to start all over by rolling it back ten feet, then forward again. The nre-set the stands/strings.
It's kinda fun to watch this process when crews do this at the track. Which is usually ony needed if they forgot their floating plates.