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Thread: August on the Jack Stands

  1. #1
    Building Boost subpay's Avatar
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    August on the Jack Stands

    After several years of ownership and only a few thousand miles of driving my 86 SVO, I have decided to overhaul the brakes system and complete some minor upgrades to the suspension. New brake hoses, calipers, disks and a flush of the brake system. Seeing it sit there all naked got me thinking......So I ordered new upper and lower control arms for the rear and KONI springs to lower the car. Although having read a couple of the threads on spring removal I am hoping that it all turns out without a trip to the ER.

    Some things I have learned:
    I am never ordering parts from Mustangs Unlimited again, they sent me the wrong parts and their customer service sucks. NPD and Late Model Resto are much better (But, I miss getting my stuff from FORCED4).
    If you buy rebuilt rear calipers, you do not need to buy new locating pins, they are already installed.
    The HPS brake Pads did not need the Maximum motorsports anti-rattle clips.
    The front calipers looked great, front pads had plenty of life left. Changed them anyways, along with the original FoMoCo disks
    The rear calipers looked like hell, evidence of leaks, rear pads needed to be replaced. So they are going, along with the original FoMoCo disks.
    I am glad I didn't have a panic stop or track day the car because the brake hoses were 27 years old and looked like hell.
    I ordered lugnuts to replace the whell locks and discovered the unit of issue is 10, not 1, and that their price wildly varies
    I should have started the suspension work before the brake work....because the front has to come apart for the new springs .
    I am very thankful for all the usefull info I have found on this forum to help me out.
    If I spread out my ordering my wife can't figure out how much I have spent. Like Congress I have not passed a budget and am spending money on a "continuing resolution".

    I will post pics of my progress, for your entertainment and critical assessment. Unless this is deemed to not fall under the "project" umbrella by the adminstrators, then I will ban myself.
    Last edited by subpay; 08-09-2013 at 11:17 PM. Reason: spelling
    SUBPAY
    1986 SVO
    2011 Mustang GT

  2. #2
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    ... then I will ban myself.
    Ahh, a self-banning. Well played, Sir.
    Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984

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  3. #3
    Moderator Bob Holmes's Avatar
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    Drat, I think we should ban him, until his next post, for not showing pictures. Of course, that banning should run consecutive to his self-banning, not concurrent.
    Enough of that, it was giving me a headache.

  4. #4

  5. #5
    Building Boost subpay's Avatar
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    So, here are the pics. Starting with the front brakes and rotors and hoses...which by the way I have to take off to get the new front springs on. Luckily, none of it is torqued, just fitted up. The middle couple pictures are of the torx head screws for the rear brake hoses that I stripped out, and finally the process of removing the rear lower control arms and installing the new tubular control arms and Koni springs. I needed my hammer for fine adjustment. 28 years in the Navy, and almost every problem can be solved with a hammer.

    Got to love that 80's undercoating as well too, huh? The wetness is from liquid wrench, not a leaking axle seal.
    SUBPAY
    1986 SVO
    2011 Mustang GT

  6. #6
    Half Boost Ford Builder's Avatar
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    Thumbs Up

    You got to like progress , some times a big hammer can be best friend.
    The Machine speaks for itself !!

  7. #7
    Moderator Bob Holmes's Avatar
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    Very nice. Working with that undercoating must be a joy.
    Enough of that, it was giving me a headache.

  8. #8
    Building Boost subpay's Avatar
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    Those torx head screws hoding the rear brake hoses are really giving me trouble. I can't get them out. Easy outs wouldn't do it. I thought the right answer was to drill them out but, I drilled pilot holes first. Now the larger bit won't work. I hate getting held up by this piss ant stuff.
    SUBPAY
    1986 SVO
    2011 Mustang GT

  9. #9
    Half Boost Ford Builder's Avatar
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    Do you have a cold chisel and big hammer try to spin the bolt counter clock wise it has worked for me in the past, or electric grinder with cut off wheel will work too.
    The Machine speaks for itself !!

  10. #10
    Moderator Meotchh's Avatar
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    Try cutting a groove in the screw head & using an impact screw driver with a flat blade bit.
    There's nothing more to see here, now move along...

  11. #11
    Building Boost subpay's Avatar
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    I ended up buying an air grinder and a cutting wheel and taking out my frustrations in a hail of shooting sparks. I am ready to continue with the project now.
    SUBPAY
    1986 SVO
    2011 Mustang GT

  12. #12
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    I ended up buying an air grinder and a cutting wheel and taking out my frustrations in a hail of shooting sparks.
    Next time get video.

    hehehe
    Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984

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  13. #13
    Building Boost subpay's Avatar
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    Updated pics of work. I made a decision to put New control arms in the rear and Koni Springs all around. I had no problems removing the front springs with an internal compressor, I just did it my own way. I also found my sway bar end links had been cross-threaded (by me several years ago) and my ball joint dust boots were dry rotted and ripped. I also think I have a bad strut. Posted seperate help question in the suspension forum. Here are some updated pics:
    IMG_0716.jpgIMG_0719.jpgIMG_0721.jpgIMG_0725.jpgIMG_0726.jpgIMG_0727.jpgIMG_0728.jpgIMG_0729.jpgIMG_0730.jpgIMG_0731.jpg
    SUBPAY
    1986 SVO
    2011 Mustang GT

  14. #14
    Red Captain MikeFleming's Avatar
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    I find it most curious that the hard brake lines come out on the other side of the K-frame in the 86 vs 84 SVO. The 86 are both ending (attaching to the flex hose) at the front of the k-frame while on the 84 they're at the rear. Why did they do that?

    Right side:

    Img_2029.jpg

    Left side:
    Img_1981.jpg
    Helping SVO owners & racers since 1984

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  15. #15
    Building Boost subpay's Avatar
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    Looks like August on the Jack stands is turning into September on the Jack Stands as I wait on parts. Getting those dust boots for the ball joints has held me up for over a week. I can'x the order with SVPU, to order from AutoZone and still haven'r gotten the parts. I did however, find out that I had no pinion snubber intalled on the car. I wasn't just missing the rubber, I was missing the foundation. the bttom of the unibody was heavily undercoated there so it was either never on the car or removed at the dealer. So I found one on ebay and installed it with the Maximum Motorsports snubber I already had. Were these built with pinion snubbers installed?
    SUBPAY
    1986 SVO
    2011 Mustang GT

  16. #16
    Building Boost subpay's Avatar
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    All right it is back together. New Brake discs, Hawk HPS pads up front, Motorcraft pads in the rear, reman. Calipers all the way around, new brake hoses, New front struts, new rear upper and lower control arms and lowering springs from Koni. I also replaced the dust boots on the ball joints and tie rod ends. Pics to follow.
    SUBPAY
    1986 SVO
    2011 Mustang GT

  17. #17
    Building Boost subpay's Avatar
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    SUBPAY
    1986 SVO
    2011 Mustang GT

  18. #18
    Building Boost subpay's Avatar
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    I am worried about the clearance between the strut and the sway bar. Sitting on the ground after driving there is about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch gap between the sway bar and the strut.
    SUBPAY
    1986 SVO
    2011 Mustang GT

  19. #19
    Building Boost subpay's Avatar
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    Front Brakes Pics

    IMG_0759.jpgIMG_0760.jpgIMG_0761.jpgIMG_0762.jpgIMG_0763.jpgIn these pics I am showing the anti-rattle clips installed on the Hawk HPS Pads, and the Maximum Motorsports steel Bushings I used in place of the stock rubber-ish type.

    After installing everything I flushed the entire system using my Power Bleeder, and located any leaks from the fittings before I put the wheels back on. I used a DOT-4 synthetic Brake Fluid from NAPA.
    SUBPAY
    1986 SVO
    2011 Mustang GT

  20. #20
    Building Boost subpay's Avatar
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    Rear Brake, Koni rear lowering springs, and rear control arm pictures I also took a picture of how I thought the rear anti-rattle clip fit.
    IMG_0764.jpgIMG_0765.jpgIMG_0766.jpgIMG_0767.jpgIMG_0768.jpgIMG_0769.jpg
    SUBPAY
    1986 SVO
    2011 Mustang GT

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